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Pisces69
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[reply]Sky is right about the fan sucking electrical power rather than mechanical (engine) power.

 

The blower fan which is located in the car cabin or under the wiper cowl plastic has an electrical motor so it's running on battery power, not much drain there since the alternator is running full time with the engine.

 

 

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From your description, look like your battery is a little weak and not able to hold the charge. Or the alternator is not strong enough.

 

A weak battery will affect the engine electrical system like ignition, spark plugs strength and anything that is electrical like rpm gauge, light, horn etc.

 

Battery strength is also an important component in the car performance arena.

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Yeah, your battery may not be holding charge sufficient enough for your electrical load so the alternator is working extra hard. Better do a voltage check, should be above 12.4V with engine on at the battery terminals. If touch 11V time to consider battery change.

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Thanks Gavin n Sky.

 

I seem to have the same prob even with new battery, so i thought its normal.

 

I figured that while engine is running, the power comes from the alternator. Battery is only used to store the extra power for starting n when i switch on stuff when the engine is off.

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Neutral Newbie

Check your battery voltage when charging (say 2Krpm). If less than 13.5-14.4V, check your voltage regulator or brushes.

 

 

Thanks Gavin n Sky.

 

I seem to have the same prob even with new battery, so i thought its normal.

 

I figured that while engine is running, the power comes from the alternator. Battery is only used to store the extra power for starting n when i switch on stuff when the engine is off.

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I have a plug in to cig lighter type of battery checker n it shows upto max 14v(i might b getting more than 14v) when i exceed the idle speed (abt 1400rpm) when moving off.

 

I top up batt water about once a month so i dont think im overcharging n have plenty of cranking power when starting.

 

My batt is only about 6mths old n i got a 2nd hand alternator a couple of months back so i guess all sud b ok.

 

Do i still need to check anything???

 

Thanks all.

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Neutral Newbie

2am, and I can't think of anything else, except for the frequent battery water topups. Don't think it's related here, but frequent evap of water (electrolyte) is one symptom of overcharging. Could be that your battery is weak.

 

Just to rule that out, go to a battery shop, and borrow their hygrometer. Quick and easy.

 

gud luck

 

I have a plug in to cig lighter type of battery checker n it shows upto max 14v(i might b getting more than 14v) when i exceed the idle speed (abt 1400rpm) when moving off.

 

I top up batt water about once a month so i dont think im overcharging n have plenty of cranking power when starting.

 

My batt is only about 6mths old n i got a 2nd hand alternator a couple of months back so i guess all sud b ok.

 

Do i still need to check anything???

 

Thanks all.

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Don't know what battery, some battery especially made in Indonesia, seem to last only for short period. Also the correct AH is important. Can have higher rating but not lower.

 

New battery can also be defective. The best check is to go down to tyre and battery shop, they have a tester and can tell you straight away whether the battery is good or not. Those aftermarket DIY stuff are not very accurate to tell you the battery condition.

 

I have had an experience where the battery fail less than 9 months from a brand new car. The battery is korean made I think, the plates inside were defective and unable to hold the charge for long. Anyway it was under warranty becos its a new car.

 

Alternator nowadays are very durable and seldom give trouble. The IC are solid state and don't easily breakdown. The main complain is the bushing bearing) worn and making noise due to wear and tear.

 

Topping up often also give you an indication that the battery is not good as new where you can leave it for months without topping up.

 

IMO, if the warning light did not come on for battery/alternator, should leave the alternator alone.

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Brick and all,

 

If you are interested in Hoppecke maintenence-free batts, I've got lobang. I got my 66A for $150. The Shell station at Bt Timah Road quoted me $180. My friend has Agip and Repsol oil and Mann oil filters too. Just want to share.

 

Cheers!

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OK Thanks guys. Wil prob go to my Batt n tire shop tomorrow to check my tires so wil get my battery checked also.

 

BTW my topping up is not like from empty to full. Its just like a little to bring it back to the full mark.

 

Cranking my starter on cold mornings also no problem n lights n horn also good.

 

Hope i dont need a new batt though. [:(]

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When my varta was going kaput, the water level drops slightly every 2-3days so topping up is a regular exercise.

 

Now I got the Hoppecke maint-free so who needs battery water? [laugh]

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Neutral Newbie

My Varta never needed water in 5 years! Still cranked strongly, changed by mistake to a Bosch (fault was alternator regulator, not the battery!).

It was labelled as a "Minimum Maintenance" model though.

 

The Bosch was The Battery From Hell. Lasted 9 months, never charged fully, plates had some intermittent fault, traded it in b4 its warranty expired. Dunno if it had anything to do with the country of origin. Never again.....

 

How long did your Varta last?

 

When my varta was going kaput, the water level drops slightly every 2-3days so topping up is a regular exercise.

 

Now I got the Hoppecke maint-free so who needs battery water? [laugh]

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Neutral Newbie

Equally important with Ah, is the cranking current capacity (never advertised, strange huh?)

 

to tell if battery is taking charge (either faulty battery or alternator), install an ammeter - go for the centre-zeo type. Voltmeter alone is insufficient information.

 

Alternator warning lite can come on after starting due to insuffient field current, but if it goes out once you rev, usually can ignore it.

 

Don't know what battery, some battery especially made in Indonesia, seem to last only for short period. Also the correct AH is important. Can have higher rating but not lower.

 

 

IMO, if the warning light did not come on for battery/alternator, should leave the alternator alone.

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Cranking draw lots of current, but it normally lasts a few seconds only.

Battery spec do not have to specify cranking current capacity.

When cranking the current comes direct from the battery and a weak battery will shows some symptom. If you cranking is weak, prepare your pocket for new battery, even though the battery can last for another 6 months. This is one indicator where you don't need any instrument or indicator. It's real and a warning.

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I also had a varta that last 3 years w/o any problem. Paid abt $160+ for it. Bought it from AA Singapore. For a Volvo to lasts that long, I must say that something man.

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