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Change to synthetic engine oil after 5k?


Carhorn
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Hi all!

 

Am quite new in this forum.

 

One question: Possible to change to synthetic engine oil instead of mineral oil during the 5K servicing? Does that mean that it is bad for car engine if change back to mineral next time?

 

thanks

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"bad for car engine if change back to mineral"

 

Hi! there, Carhorn,

 

It'd depends on how old the car is, usually new cars use syn, while older cars use mineral.

 

The advantage of syn, longer maintenance schedule, say at 8,000km instead of 5,000km. Sticks to engine parts for better protection, especially start-up in the mornings. It cost more than mineral oil, almost 4 times more.

 

Stick to a particular brand and you'll be alright.

 

Rgds

 

Paul Yong

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hi there.....i'm going for my 10k servicing soon so thinking abt which engine oil to use. currently using Shell Helix 5W-40 that Kah Motor used for my previous servicing. should i be using back the same oil for the 10k? comments on this oil? or can i change to using -W-30?? what do u think? need some advice... [:)]

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I presume that your car is new ? Well for the initial fill up the agents will use mineral oil as they will drain out the oil after 1,000 km...so makes no sense to use syn if they are gonna flush it out after such a short distance.

 

After the 1K runin period....you can actually switch to syn oil if you want. If you are using the agent package (like Tan Cheong) then they will use mineral oil for economical purposes (cheaper for them since they offer it free for 1st 3 session).

 

It is advisable to use a syn oil as the base is much more stable than the min oil. The oil is less prone to breakdown and higher resistance to heat and thus protects the engine better.

 

Just switch to syn...it cost more but its worth it.

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Neutral Newbie

These are the cons I heard about mineral oils.

 

1. They produce much higher carbon buildup because of their natural makeup.

 

2. Tars/Asphalt residue.

 

3. Varnish.

 

4. Paraffin, creates poor pumpability in colder climates.

 

5. Sulfer content, causes acids to form when combined with the by-products of combustion; mainly carbon disulfied. Plus the acids eat at seals.

 

6. If a mineral oil is what is required for break in wear, it will continue to wear at a faster rate than synthetics.

 

7. Most mineral oils are designed to handle a max contaminate load of 7-10% and still perform in normal operation.

 

8. Mineral oils are formulated to withstand less than 1000 PSI of Shear Strength.

 

9. Mineral oils do not dissipate heat as efficiently as synthetic lubes.

 

10. At zero, mineral oils provide very minimal cold start protection.

 

11. Also, if you are looking for an extended drain, mineral oils are limited.

 

 

Well, but I'm still using mineral oil for my almost 1 year old car. [laugh]

Edited by Zees
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"currently using Shell Helix 5W-40"

 

Hi! there, Excalibur,

 

Previously, I was using Shell Helix Ultra before I changed to mineral oil. IMHO, the price is too expensive for a branded oil. Later a friend intro me to Pennzoil which is cheaper and better.

 

30weight oil's good for new engines, but for our weather and daily drive, 40 is better.

 

Rgds

 

Paul Yong

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"40 is better than 30"

 

Hi! there, Excalibur,

 

30weight is too thin, some will find that you'd lose oil during blow-by, as we do more start-stop driving.

 

I'm using 50 for my old car, there're some using 60 for their TC cars. It's all about temperature from our engine, that's why have to find ways to keep it at optimum range.

 

Rgds

 

Paul Yong

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"semi-syn before going to fully syn"

 

Hi! there, Adrian,

 

Due to marketing by the oil producers, actually there's no fully-syn oil. There's a thread on the characteristics between brands somewhere.

 

Run around with the new oil for awhile with the old oil filter then change it again and replace oil filter.

 

Rgds

 

Paul Yong

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Neutral Newbie

hmm..really?

 

just bought a bottle of Castrol SLX 0w30..people at STC suggest using this thin oil for better performance so I thought I'd give it a shot since I'm due for an oil change soon anyway..

 

 

 

ok, whats the logic behind using the old filter? :)

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"using 40 for our weather is preferred"

 

Hi! there, Excalibur,

 

This depends on what you want for your car, your style of driving, type of driving. For me, when the oil don't smell good or feel good I'll change it. I've a friend who'd change it at 1,000km, or use a race-spec oil just for going to MY.

 

I do the oil change myself, and I avoid traffic jams as much as possible.

 

Rgds

 

Paul Yong

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"using the old filter?"

 

Hi! there, Adrian,

 

If you change to a new filter, the next change at a few kms away, you need to change it again. It's the same as doing an engine oil flush at the w/shop.

 

For better performance, using a race-spec oil would be better, but then, you'd have to run the car above 140. The Amsoil that they're selling here is the best in the market for everyday use.

 

Rgds

 

Paul Yong

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just normal day-to-day driving in SG streets, so i guess you know how that's like. [:)]

wow u can actually tell the oil is not good by smelling? impressive!! [thumbsup]

and you change the oil yourself? u got the tools to hoist up the car?

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"got the tools to hoist up the car?"

 

Hi! there, Excalibur,

 

When you take a sniff of the oil cap & the bottle of oil in your hand, there's a difference. Wipe the dipstick with your fingers, then feel it then do it with the bottle of oil.

 

I use the hyd lift at my customer's w/shop, and dispose of it at their oil bin.

 

You can check with Cool, there might be somemore Amsoil left from the last shipment.

 

Rgds

 

Paul Yong

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