Sim Lim sells CDT?

[Hyun]

Anders213,

would be nice to get to know ur YRV fren and see his setup. i'm especially interested to ask if he has still a lot of rattling/road noise afer he did his soundproofing setup.

 

re: midrange speakers

i've half a mind to extend the budget to go for midrange speakers, cos right now haven't quite found the budget one that fits "all round". a/d/s/ 246 sounds ok but bass doesn't seem to reach far below. CDT CL-62 sounds blunted at the trebles.

 

but i heard to go for mid or higher range, have to budget enough wattage per channel from the amp. so for a $500 speaker, at least 50W per channel, and one of those PHD FB Pro should get 80W or more per channel?

 

going "active" isn't as easy as using a 4 channel amp with 2-way front components right? the whole idea is to feed 1 channel to each way of component (1 to tweet, 1 to 6.5 inch) and use the crossover on the amp itself, yes? cos i was thinking of investing in a 4-channel amp of at least 75x4 or so, and just use the 4 channels to power the front - can try an active setup.

[Headshok]

looks like ur budget has gotten bigger.. like that.. then go for other things la rather than those i recommended.. cos those are the "lower" end stuff.. cheap cheap nia. tot u wanted just a simple yet effective system..

[Hyun]

ok the budget thought was initially $700-800, but u showed me it was impractical and at least has to be raised to about $1100-1200, with a bit of flexibility towards $1500.

 

went down to your installer on 6th Avenue to see the soundstream. i've read on the net about how people love it. but i'm puzzled, how much can we get out of 25x4 + 100x1 5-channel amp?

 

i probably misunderstood but - assuming that watts = volume (i bet i'm wrong), a 25x4 can still churn out good lower volume music. it just can't blast at 100 watts. tell me how wrong am i ...

 

_____________

 

the greatest trick i think is - u can't picture how it really sounds like until all the purchases are done and u play it in the car. and by then it's time to regret!

 

took a look at autobacs today. they no longer carry CDT CL or HD but has ES (probably the 620, selling at $1300) on audition.

 

they've a package of Hertz entry level DSK165 (list price $210) with Audison SRX3 (75x2, 250x1) with Hertz EBX250R ported 10" sub for about $999 + $240 install + expensive soundproofing. or $999 cash and carry.

Edited September 27, 2005 by Hyun

[Headshok]

haha...

 

oo well.. u go read the manual, its rated at 25 watts at 12V.. so it should be runnin at a higher power in the car.. and also.. there' ssometing called "under rated amps"..

 

don just judge an amp based solely on what is stated on the outside.. yes its important.. but also must see brand..

 

u can have some funny amps which are sstated at like 200 watts per channel.. but these amps will not pump out as much power as these old sch amps..

 

old sch amps famous for this..

but if u find a better deal.. go for it.. like i said.. my 2 amp in my boot (2X50 watts)... is a classic example lor..

 

also.. must see brand.. heheh.. and place of origin..

 

 

u poisoned liao.. gone case liao..

Edited September 27, 2005 by Headshok

[Wahlao]

there's a used pair of CDT CL62 abt 1.5mths old posted for sale in TCS forums for $270

 

if u still interested in them let me know I'll check & PM u the contact

 

u should of course check with the seller on the condition of the speakers

[Anders213]

Not always true that that it will run higher RMS when you start the engine.

It is dependant on the amp's power circuit.

Some amps have regulated power supply which means it will output the same power within a certain voltage range.

[Jamesgetz]

hmmm.... daichi's prices getting less and less competitive nowadays. and the 'manufactured in 2004' story to justify his price is really quite

[Stepper]

after reading thru your posting, i find that you got quite a good understanding of ICE and able to comment on every speaker you have heard . I think your budget may not get wat you want.

 

Therefore I would suggest that save up more and get better stuff or to upgrade part by part. Or else you will not be able to get the sound you really want. And you have to sell away the stuff you get earlier. And the drop in prices for 2nd hand ICE is huge. I sold off my so call ice for a 60% price drop after 8 months of use.

 

IMHO only. Enjoy your search!!!

[Hyun]

yah, that's my fear. i have 2 ways to go about it:

 

1) spend little, have some noise in the car, fun and shiokz. most importantly, can play a little louder without crackling, vibrating. (my current stock setup - one speaker has a buzz resonating at a mid-bass frequency which i hope the daihatsu distrib can help me fix!)

 

2) try to target the sound i want. but like headshok said i kenna poisoned. i dun think i can achieve that sound confidently while sticking to a $1200 budget. but i also understand $1200 has its limits so i can try to get as good a sound as $1200 can buy.

 

3) get the sound i want. this sounds expensive. NOT AN OPTION!

 

re: low-wattage amps

yup headshok that's what i'm trying to find out. 2x50, 4x25, all these small figures, what do they mean? does it mean:

1) if u use this simple soundstream to power say PHD FB Pro, it'll sound like underpowered crap?

2) it sounds nice, but just can't turn up too loud (amp has limit to max volume output)?

3) also it's sub channel is 100x1 so again, 100watts can power a nice sub to play at the kind of volume we play on Wednesday meetup, but cannot go for competition and blast?

 

if these small wattage amps can handle stuff, i'm quite interested in getting the soundstream, just cos good remarks about its warm sound (i like!) and its durability (but that amp looks real old liao). one bad comment i read b4 is sometimes soundstream can heat up, blow fuses etc every now and then.

 

the reason i'm holding off this soundstream is cos of the fear of low watts, and also it's not bridgeable, so i can't make it 3 channel. the closest way of using 5 channel is to run active to fronts (i think it's got crossover in the amp, not sure) but this active thing is a bit too cheem for me.

 

* see u guys tonight, i'm going down to breathe in more poison *

[Wankie]

* see u guys tonight, i'm going down to breathe in more poison *

 

BIG MISTAKE!!!

[Hellfreezes]

Hyun,

 

As stated by Stepper, you do have a good understanding of how each speaker/component sounds. You have done a fair amont of research, asking questions on the net, visiting various ICE shops. I am afraid you may end up more confused if you ask for more opinions. Everyone's opinion tends to be different. After all, we are distinct individuals are we not? Budget is still paramount in making your decision. There is a minimum amount that you will have to spend to get a decent quality of sound. After that, you will have to spend substantially more in order to move that bit closer to the holy grail of hi-fidelity.

 

One of the worse things I have seen happen in ICE is that the whole thing becomes an equipment race. The unending pursuit of something more powerful, more beautiful, more prestigious, more exiotic, more expensive.....when it finally degenerates into a "mine is bigger than yours" situation. It is not uncommon to find people caught up in the whole hooplah of the latest gizmo or brand, whether or not it is up to spec.

 

My take on a decent set-up.

Either you change to a pair of co-axials powered by the head unit or you go for a full setup. If you fit a pair of decent component speakers in the front powered by an equally decent amp, but find that you have no budget left for a subwoofer, you will feel shortchanged by the whole set-up. Conversely, if you were to fit a sub powered by a monoblock amp, but with front factory speakers running off the head unit, you will definitely find it lacking. I know the second example sounds a little extreme but it can happen.

 

I suggest that you have a "balanced" system. What I mean is that say for a budget of $1.5K to $2.2K, you are able to get the full works and a decent sound. You will have decent front component speakers, 4 channel amp and a subwoofer. Perhaps an entry level parametric equalizer as well. The overall sound will be OK. Certainly not top notch, but leaps ahead of what you started off with. Its not necessary to run 3-way fronts, active front, external crossovers, line drivers, A-pillar mounting, multiple subs, capacitors, Class D mono amps, etc.... to get decent sound. Equpiment is just that...only equipment. The installation and tuning is vital. You can have expensive components sounding terrible when crossover and gain settings are out. Or if speakers are positioned poorly, or say the subwoofer enclosure is poorly constructed. I am not saying to go for any chapalang brand but you need not get a very high-end stuff to sound good. To ICE bros reading, I am not saying that any of these items are no good or a waste of money. My point is that you can and will get decent quality sound without any or all of these items, you just have to make your budget work for you. Unfortunately, budget is always a constraining factor, unless you are born rich, inherit a fortune, strike 4-D, strike Toto, have rich parents....etc

 

Just my humble opinion... I am open to disucssion.

 

Happy ICE hunting!

 

Hellfreezes

[Hyun]

i see the light, thanks!

 

audioedge got sell toto?

 

maybe going down yihing later to look see. i'm sure the old man sells Chup Di Kee...

[Hellfreezes]

Hyun,

 

Yihing is well known for their workmanship. However, he is really slow and carries limited brands. I got a quote from him once.

 

Clarion Front Speakers 6.5"

Clarion amplifier 4 channels

Bazooka 8 inch active sub

Sound proofing front doors

Basic Wiring and installation

 

Sorry, I have forgotten which models of Clarion.

 

Around $2K

 

Hellfreezes

[Yoyo]

Care to share what's your final choice set up? I was told 3 way component speaker any time better than 2 way component. Any pro offer advice & experience?

[Bluesbro]

Any1 know how much do they sell a new pair of CDT HD-62s ?

[Caltis]

Is auto55 the shop name? couldn't find it in the yellowpages, can PM me? tks bro

[Caltis]

No pro advice here, but 3 way components are harder to manufacture/design because so far most manufacturer did not manage to do a good 3 way cross-over to separate the sound into "3" components... while 2 way has a single cut-off point and thus easier to control.... if you can find a good 3 way component, tuning must be properly done or it'll sound horrible. Thus, most 2 way component will easily sound better than a 3 way at the moment.