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Breakin down of car


Chiqinhan
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U encounter overheating problems. Either your water pump fail or the thermostat is not opening to allow the water/coolant to circulate. that is provided no leakage found.

 

When overheat, smoke will emit from the engine compartment, really shd wait for it to cool down b4 topping up the water.

 

Possible damage - cylinder head warp and need a top overhaul, engine loss compression and no power. have to get mechanic to confirm.

 

After s/w off engine, still running is due to the residue fuel that sip through or the accumulation of carbon in your cylinder/piston that continue to ignite with the high temp due to overheating.

 

Look like your ride had sustained damaged due to overheating, could be costly. temp gauge is important, while driving or stopping one shd glance to see the needle to ensure it is not in the red zone.

 

Another possibility, could be your compression rings is leaking, causing poor performance, difficult starting, cyl head gasket leaking, causing excessive heat to escape into the cooling system and overheat the engine.

 

my analysis. cheers

 

got it done liao... yesterday whole day very busy...

 

yesterday manage to drive the car to workshop, 50km/h. slow slow...

 

after my mech check, discovered the big fan to the radiator is not moving at all. he told mi.

 

initially is 95 bucks to repair.

 

after few hrs he call mi to collect. total is 150 as he said the radiator cap also spoilt, a dunno wat item also spoilt. i not so sure wat the hell is tat either...

 

but the problem is the engine oil red signal in the car is still there even after he fixed it. though my engine oil level is the optimum level. he said maybe my engine watever meter or wat reading is spoilt. but he didnt change. which i find it y cant he do it for mi since he said he knew wat happen.

 

so drive off. the fan is workin as he change a reconditioned one for mi. jus that the stupid signal still there. though after drivin the signal disappear after i reach my cp. still out today when i start engine. any idea wat the hell is wrong as the red signal of engine oil keeps comin out though my engine oil is optimum level.

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ah...so u had same prob as me for the faulty radiator fan. mine was brand new fan motor - denso brand. also around same price as yours.

 

as for radiator cap, think no way to see whether spoilt or not unless proven unable to prevent leak or maintain the correct pressure.

 

anyway outside the cap is selling abt 8 bucks - i got it from the shell station.

 

think 150 if never changed much is slightly expensive.

 

as for the engine oil light on, there's sensor to check the level at oil sump, whether enuff.. apparently, the sensor may not be working well since u checked that the engine oil level is correct. best get another mech to check.

 

glad ur car is ok already. cheers

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seems like regular maintenance is crucial to ensure the car is in gd running order.

 

so far my swift prob from day 1:

1. power window not working (changed new pwr window circuit board -free from dealer)

 

2. door unable open!! (repaired as covered by dealer)

 

3. power lock not working (1st repaired covered by dealer, 2nd time, replaced recon power lock by another mech)

 

4. air con not cold (mark cool found loose connector - $2 charge)

 

5. high temp issue (radiator motor faulty, top radiator hose leak - less 120)

 

.....keeping finger cross....no more prob...

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good to know that your car's fixed.

BTW, your car's rpm back to normal?

 

If everything is ok after a few days (no power loss,etc), then it could be that your indicator's spoilt. Maybe overheated and some wires got burnt off? [confused]

 

But like any bad sickness, better bring to a 2nd non-related mechanic for a 2nd opinion. [;)]

Wanna go to my mech?

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sure. wats ur mech contact??? reliable n cheap?

 

my current mech last time when i change my engine oil told mi the screw when its release so tat old engine oil can flow out easily is spoilt. he said he cant unscrew the thing, therefore he had to pump the oil instead of lettin it flow out from below.

 

he told mi maybe previously the other guy who change the oil forcefully screw back the thing,causes the screw to spoil. as he said the more he unscrewed, the tighter it is.

 

so bo pian had to pump out the dirty oil, he claimed somethin wrong with oil sump. btw wats oil sump for???

 

maybe i'll bring my car to ur mech for engine oil change n see y the stupid red indicator keeps coming out though now my engine oil level confirm enough.

 

the idling rpm now average 800-1000. just tat the sight of indicator very irritating. any solution? or any idea wats wrong.

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Glad to hear that it only the cooling fan is faulty and replaced. Hope the engine is okay.

 

The oil red lamp problem -

1. could be the oil pressure s/w is faulty,

2. oil pump is not supplying the required pressure to the system,

3. or electrical wiring snag.

 

the first and third defect is not a big problem, it is the second one than u need to do something about it.

 

Do check you oil level, see whether any increase in level, as a safety precaution, just in case water escape into the oil system.

 

cheers

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i think must see another mech soon for better confirmation,

 

btw the red signal comes out when i start the engine, after driving for about 10-15 mins later the signal went off liao... any idea wats the conclusion?

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Neutral Newbie

My mech is at jurong side one.

At Pioneer Road North.

Block what i don know.

But i know how to go there.

I'll find out more then post on the board again...

 

Hope that helps....

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I thought the warning is more for oil pressure sensor rather than oil level sensor. (although low level will also cause low pressure).

 

The aladdin lamp warning could mean:

a) Engine oil level low.

b) Oil pump worn or spoilt.

c) Pick-up screen/filter plugged.

d) Excessive bearing wear.

e) Sensor faulty.

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Neutral Newbie

Hey I heard you taught me petrol cool the engine just like sweat cools our body. I am about to sell my radiator liao.

 

I concur with Paul. Looks like either the water pump stopped or something is blocking the coolant flow if no leaks are observed. Happened to me before but the car didn't go kaput. I'm a gauge man. My eyes are everywhere and my gauges are where my eyes spy on besides the road.
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n discovered tat the temp in the meter is H. which is very high temp. n the red signal for the water shortage is out, the one with a alladin lamp with a drop of water. n the rpm returns to idlin at a very slow rate. meaning if i accel till 3000rpm. it will slowly crawl back to 1000rpm rather than straight away fall back. engine oil also within safety level. call up my regular mech, told him about my condition. he suspect its the water shortage in the radiator.

 

but when i check my spare tank for the radiator, the water level is oni 1-2cm shortage of the optimum level. my mech said the water under the radiator cap might be insufficient. told mi to wait for about an hr b4 openin the radiator cap to top up the water.

 

2hrs later i open up the rad cap n top ur about 2.5-3 litres of water into the radiator. after tat start the engine again. to my disappointment the red signal with the alladin lamp n water drop is still there n i can feel the idlin rpm getting weaker n weaker n like the engine dyin like tat....

 

very sian... any bros here encounter this b4 n got any correct remedy for mi??? thks a lot.................

 

my guess is u never check the water level in radiator regularly...need to check 2-3 days. tat's why cause the high temp. also maybe some leakage of coolant somewhere...causing water to reduce daily.

 

after i change my temp housing, no more requiring to top up coolant...but of course still need to check water level in the radiator

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Since all the experts asked the direct qn,

Qn: What is ur mileage and when did u last replaced the timing belt and did u replace the belt together with the water pump?

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