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Need help on FD3S


Vteckim
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Neutral Newbie

Dear all,

 

I am new to these forums. I came here hoping to learn more and also share knowledge with u guys. I hope u guys can help. I used to drive an EK4 and I'm very familiar with the B16A. Now I'm looking for a new ride. I was thinking of buying the EVO9 or DC5 but lately, I've been seduced by the FD3S. I could save a hell alot of money buying an older car...haha.

 

Anyways, here's a few questions about the FD.

 

1) wat kinda price shud i pay?

2) in which year was the last FD sold here?

3) is teh BATHURST the same as the Type R?

4) are there any good workshops besides GTR technologies

5) Any inspection issues... LTA compliance and all that crap. (Its damn hard to find a stock version)

6) Finally, does anyone have or know anyone who's selling an FD?

 

I hope u guys can help me. I have always been playing with B16, and I have no experience with the 13B and forced induction. hope u guys can help.

 

Cheers!

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FD3S... currently all are COE car falling under the $18444 coe category.

Euro speed at marina south are selling near $70k for theirs and the paper value as of today is only less than $12k. This car is very aged and some of them had accident on them. The lastest FD sold in singapore was 2002 when Mazda released a limited edition Spirit R. There is only 1 in singapore and i dont think he is selling his car.

 

You cant save money in this car as it comsumes more petrol than the EVOs and the interest rate is @ 4.625%.

 

Also i doubt you can get a full loan on this car... if you have money for downpayment. Get a new car.

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Neutral Newbie

Thanx dude. if the paper value is 12k how do i calculate the proce i shud pay? I have trouble calculating the price for a COE paid car.

 

I am aware of the high petrol consumption. Would I save money on road tax cos of the smaller displacement?

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In truth I can't answer any of you questions apart from number 3.

 

The B16's and the 13B's are as far apart as can be in terms of type of engines... you're going to have to start over. the Bathurst is a limited edition RX7 (diff trim and stuff like that)... engine wise its the same as every other FD. I dun recall ever having a version of the FD with more power than the rest (like honda and its Type R's) because the rx7 has always been a performance car, with no "compromised" version.

 

Good car, but the rotory has is pros and cons... look for the thread about chosing between and RX8 and the integra as I have put many points about the rotory engine there. Hope someone else can help you out with the other bits.

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Neutral Newbie

Thanx for ure input man. I know that owning an FD is going to be a pain in the ass, so i'm still considering. I've read the RX8 vs Integra part. RX8 definitely not an option for me. Its a good car but i just dont like it. A bit too femenistic in design.

 

My friend went to the presentation on the 'Renesis' Engine by the guys from Mazda. They say that the engine is so perfectly tuned that no further tune up can be accommodated. Dunno how true la. Whats the engine code for the new rotary engine in the RX8?

 

I only know that the main difference is the position of the intake port and exhaust port as compared to the 13B.

 

cheers mate

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Turbocharged

1) $68,000 to $70,000+++ (my friend works in Eurospeed @ Marina... PM me if you need his contact)

 

2) 2002

 

3) Bathurst is so named because the RX7 won the Australian 12 hours race at Bathurst in 1990s

 

4) Not sure...

 

5) All COE cars by now. Very high fuel consumption. Expect to do 4-5 km per litre if you're into spirited driving all the time. Even if not, you won't go more than 9-10km per litre (info courtesy of my friend from Eurospeed). Most are extensively modified. Many have been through accident(s).

 

Very nice car but reconsider seriously.

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(edited)

there is no pricing for this car as it's limited in singapore... it's up to that dealer to quote the price.

 

you would not save money on the road tax as it will increase to 150% of the original by the 5th year. if you get this car and you get into a total loss accident... good luck.

 

i think the new engine code is SE3P...

Edited by Schneider79
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Neutral Newbie

thanx for the info. I'll seriously consider. How much do u reckon a will full port n polish and rebuilding cost?

 

Question open to anyone out there.

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Neutral Newbie

For question 4, think only GTR Technology doing & maintain rotary cars. Garage R also do. But they will give u likely HKS products. Anyway, FD3S is a good car. With 654 cc x 2 rotor. The maintenance isn't that easy as those L4 or L6 type, and the maintenance fees are quite high. Given only a handful of ppl here know how to do rotary engine. It need a special type of treatment. For engine oil (Take for example). U need to find those engine oil with the word "RE" on it or those suitabe with rotary engine kind. Normal synthetic oil will cause trouble to it.

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Maintainence is about the same are any other car. Only when it comes to engine troubles it might be more expensive as the mechanisms are different. For oil, sparkies etc, any workshop will be able to handle it, its only if you for e.g. need to change your apex seals that you need a specialised workshop. (Whats L4/L6?) In terms of engine oil, any engine oil that is suitable for turbo cars is fine (as the FD is a TC car). Rotary engines use the SAME engine oils as every other car, just make sure like for every other car you meet/exceed the viscosity requirements.

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Neutral Newbie

Hmmm nice comments. I think L4 and L6 is referring to logitudinal mounted 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder engines, like SR20DET on the sylvia is an L4. Not sure whether i'm right... bout the engine oil, since FD is such an old car, i'm thinking it needs some form of protection so maybe thicker oil?? Is full synthetic reccommended for such an old car?

 

Also, FD selling at Marina has such low mileage its unbelievable. Could this be new engine? or perhaps rebuilt engine?

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Doesnt matter what it meant. I was just curious. rotories are actually easier than piston engines as there are less moving parts in it. Just that as very few people know how to fix them and stuff, the work done by those who do comes at a premium price...

 

Well if I bought a rotor, the first thing I would do is a change of all apex seals and a port and polish. Afterthat, it will be like new (of sorts) and should not give you any real trouble unless you don't warm her up etc. If you're gonna do what i said, then yes, go for whatever oil that will be fine, and change it every 5000km's (personally i would say semi-synth would be more than adequate).

 

If you're gonna just drive it, then i still say semi-synth. You might want to pm genie47?? and ask him abt oils coz i reckon he knows more than i do. Just remember to meet or exceed the reccomendations in the user manuals.

 

As for mileage, it can't be wound back legally, so it should reflect the body age of the car. Only the previous owner will knwo for sure if the engine is new or rebuilt. Do you know if the car was imported 2nd hand from japan as my 15yr old car has only 80000kms on the clock. 2 years ago when she came in, she only had 52000kms when she first landed in australia and though mine is lower (and genuine too) most cars from japan have similar low milage (If it came in at 3yrs, I think she wouldn't have more than 10000kms on her).

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Neutral Newbie

thanx for the info man. Really helpful.

 

Wat car did u buy? 15 yrs old.... just curious. I'd respect it if u had to keep it a secret.

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I'm in Aust. Its a Nissan 180sx (200sx in sg). If I can, I'm trying to own a couple of older cars that you can't get or are really hard to get in sg. I also help out a friends workshop, as such I learn a little bit more about cars too (and the bonus of test driving them to make sure that everything is in working order- because I tend to notice the smallest of things- by far my favs are the workshops widebody S15 with HKS head and turbo and the twin TD05 R32 GTR...).

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Neutral Newbie

Hah, no wonder. My fren owns 180sx in Aust too but his is auto. You running SR20?

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Neutral Newbie
(edited)
there is no pricing for this car as it's limited in singapore... it's up to that dealer to quote the price.

 

you would not save money on the road tax as it will increase to 150% of the original by the 5th year. if you get this car and you get into a total loss accident... good luck.

 

i think the new engine code is SE3P...

 

SE3P is the car model code.... juz like fd3s and fc3s for the rx7.

 

engine code is still 13B i tink. tink panda is best suited to answer u this question....

Edited by Coupe07
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You're right on that.. the actual code is 13BREW

 

vteckim>> Nah traditionalist CA18... wun switch to the SR though they're cheaper to find aftermarket bits and pieces.

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