Gavin88 Neutral Newbie September 10, 2013 Share September 10, 2013 how often should we change brake fluid? ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vtim 3rd Gear September 13, 2013 Share September 13, 2013 omg..guess I have been really carrot cake..gonna boycott Autobacs..=.= there are many importers for aftermarket and original car parts, always look and shop around for the price 1st before you commit, Autobacs is just of the reseller / workshop. you can always come inhere to ask around Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vtim 3rd Gear September 13, 2013 Share September 13, 2013 I bought my own brakepad from amazon. Its akebono brand. Got some good review for it. I paid usd 60+. here in sg is selling $280 include installation and $230 if buy it from sg stockist. Damage list: Brakepad frm amazon usd 60+. free shipping due to bought few other thing. Brake fluid frm sg stockist $16 Labour to install front brakepad + changing brakefluid $80. U do the maths :) yes, aftermarket or OEM brands are often cheaper than "original" car maker brand, anyway, car maker themselves do not manufacture the brake pads, infact lots of parts on a car/vehicle were never made by them also, they are all from OEM factories that specialise in that particular parts. for brake pads, I normally go for a few brands, Trestor, Mintex, Bendix, Ferrodo..etc... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yuan 6th Gear September 14, 2013 Share September 14, 2013 how often should we change brake fluid? Under the start stop traffic conditions in Singapore, usually once every 2 years would suffice. The hot humid climate or weather here plays a part as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yuan 6th Gear September 14, 2013 Share September 14, 2013 yes, aftermarket or OEM brands are often cheaper than "original" car maker brand, anyway, car maker themselves do not manufacture the brake pads, infact lots of parts on a car/vehicle were never made by them also, they are all from OEM factories that specialise in that particular parts. for brake pads, I normally go for a few brands, Trestor, Mintex, Bendix, Ferrodo..etc... I learnt recently that for certain car makes, there are some differences between original parts and OEM parts. For example, for VW, the OEM brake pads are from Topran Germany which is not as good as the original VW brake suppliers which are usually TRW, Bosch or sometime ATE. Thus this makes the whole discussion quite subjective and I think one should be prudent to check with his stockiest the differences between original and OEM parts before making a decision. These days, I would go for original parts (not OEM) so long as I drive my VW and only go for OE performance parts if I need some enhancements. Alternatively, if I go for aftermarket parts, I would do my due diligence to make sure that they are at least ISO 16949 certified and of reputable brand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vtim 3rd Gear September 14, 2013 Share September 14, 2013 I learnt recently that for certain car makes, there are some differences between original parts and OEM parts. For example, for VW, the OEM brake pads are from Topran Germany which is not as good as the original VW brake suppliers which are usually TRW, Bosch or sometime ATE. Thus this makes the whole discussion quite subjective and I think one should be prudent to check with his stockiest the differences between original and OEM parts before making a decision. These days, I would go for original parts (not OEM) so long as I drive my VW and only go for OE performance parts if I need some enhancements. Alternatively, if I go for aftermarket parts, I would do my due diligence to make sure that they are at least ISO 16949 certified and of reputable brand. Oh I see, thanks for the update, I will inform my kaki who drives a VW golf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisWong Neutral Newbie May 19, 2014 Share May 19, 2014 Not sure if this is the correct thread to post my question. I'm driving a Honda Jazz, and the ride is becoming very bumpy (and stiff). I'm using the original stock suspension. What can I do to make the ride more comfortable? Contrary to many other drivers, I'm not looking to stiffen the suspension, nor lower it. What must I do to my suspensions, so that the car doesn't bump so hard on the road when it's moving? Please help. Thanks! :) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pms 3rd Gear May 19, 2014 Share May 19, 2014 Dont expect them to last 10 years bro. they are probably end of life by ~5 years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NelsonChia Neutral Newbie June 17, 2014 Share June 17, 2014 hi allanyone using BC V1 coilover, do you....* feel bumpy even on straight road with hard setting (like I am riding on a horse)* have soft weird squeaking noise (like rubber rubbing one another)* have a one weird knocking sound when full right steering turn (sound knocking once only for each turn)i am experiencing the above and sound came from my front right. Is it faulty already? thanks in advance Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watwheels Supersonic June 17, 2014 Share June 17, 2014 (edited) hi all anyone using BC V1 coilover, do you.... * feel bumpy even on straight road with hard setting (like I am riding on a horse) * have soft weird squeaking noise (like rubber rubbing one another) * have a one weird knocking sound when full right steering turn (sound knocking once only for each turn) i am experiencing the above and sound came from my front right. Is it faulty already? thanks in advance Sounds like the suspension mount and thrust bearing need replacement. You pop open the hood, have someone turn the steering wheel, you stare at the 2 x strut towers and listen for squeaky sound. As the bearing swivel the strut left/right it may squeak if not lubricated properly. Knocking sound on full right turn. You shine a torchlight under the front fender(either one or both), have someone do a full right turn on the steering wheel and watch the strut or damper swivel. If it jumps or hop means the top mounting require replacement. You had it on hard setting wor. Of course it will be hard like a roller coaster ride. That hard setting could have damaged your mounting and bearing. I dun understand why ppl think the hardest setting means the best. It's not. You better check your tires for uneven wear. If you anyhow do your suspension settings you may cause a lot of parts to wear prematurely. Edited June 17, 2014 by Watwheels Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mz3SP0907 3rd Gear June 17, 2014 Share June 17, 2014 Bro Watwheels has given a good and detailed diagnose of the problem.. I would suggest you get it rectify immediately... is safety concern.. I've used this coilover on my Mz3 (on comfort setting)... after 3 years it made some sound when turning right... get it check at my friend ws... true enough the thrust bearing kaput, as Bro Watwheels mentioned. When the car was jack up... the suspension was slack... I was thinking... oh goodness, could be disastrous if I chose to ignore. Anyway, the coilover lasted 5 years and I am back to orignal setup, except for the shock is aftermarket. Do expect little squeaking sound if you use coilover for normal car... but be careful if the sound got worst or weird. No chance taken here. Cheers! Drive Safe! hi allanyone using BC V1 coilover, do you....* feel bumpy even on straight road with hard setting (like I am riding on a horse)* have soft weird squeaking noise (like rubber rubbing one another)* have a one weird knocking sound when full right steering turn (sound knocking once only for each turn)i am experiencing the above and sound came from my front right. Is it faulty already? thanks in advance Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NelsonChia Neutral Newbie June 18, 2014 Share June 18, 2014 (edited) Sounds like the suspension mount and thrust bearing need replacement. You pop open the hood, have someone turn the steering wheel, you stare at the 2 x strut towers and listen for squeaky sound. As the bearing swivel the strut left/right it may squeak if not lubricated properly. Knocking sound on full right turn. You shine a torchlight under the front fender(either one or both), have someone do a full right turn on the steering wheel and watch the strut or damper swivel. If it jumps or hop means the top mounting require replacement. You had it on hard setting wor. Of course it will be hard like a roller coaster ride. That hard setting could have damaged your mounting and bearing. I dun understand why ppl think the hardest setting means the best. It's not. You better check your tires for uneven wear. If you anyhow do your suspension settings you may cause a lot of parts to wear prematurely. thanks squeaking sound - only when moving off or in motion speed. idling speed while turning steering no sound. knocking sound - ok good advise will check it out. re-update again bumpy ride - especially after i down rim size from 17" to 16" / new sets of tyres + adjust car height + wheel alignment. yesterday mechanic took my car spin one round and came back set to 25F / 18R. squeaking sound - gone in a way but still able hear slight / soft squeaking sound at certain moments.. knocking sound - not anymore when U-turning so far. will continue observe it. bumpy ride - no more horse riding like before and much better though still feel it in a way but acceptable. Ok noted, will look at the thrust bearing & top mount asap too. update again soon.... Edited June 18, 2014 by NelsonChia ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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