2015 Forester 2.0

[Shibadog]

4 hours ago, Stratovarius said:

I went back to the workshop and told them to reapply the grease. Yes they need to take out the arb. Took around 1 hour. They told me the grease is special kind and can last around 2 years so it means I need to go back every 2 years? Lol. Kinda regret to change arb. 

aftermkt ARB? Are their supplied bushings rubber or PU? PU will need periodic regreasing. At least one manufacturer I know of has introduced "greaseless bushings" but I hv no experience with it.

FWIW, I use PU bushings on my cusco ARBs and have to regrease approx. every 20k-30k km. But it does hv less flex/give than rubber bushings so it allows the ARB to work more effectively. Very worth it, in my opinion.

[Shibadog]

5 hours ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

I think not need to grease. Just change the ARB bushings. Doesn't cost much.

Anyway to grease it, will still need to remove from the ARB.

Expecially the original ones, there is a thin wax coating on surface.

that's true. I was thinking that if regreasing the bushings solves the problem, then one will have identified the source. Esp if it's aftermkt bushings on aftermkt ARB.

If stock ARB then yeah, new bushings are easy to buy and cheap enough to just change it.

[Shibadog]

8 hours ago, Tohto said:

BTW I only used 5W30 engine oil. As our owner manual suggest which I always prefer thinner oil.

 

That's the good thing abt FA/FB engine. Does the SJG owners' manual have a recommendation for "severe driving conditions"?

In older subies with EJ20/25, there is a recommendation to use a heavier weight oil for "severe driving conditions", which incld city driving, high ambient temperatures etc. For my car, a 5w40 is spec-ed for normal usage but a 50 is recommended for severe driving conditions. Thus I use 5w50/15w50/20w50, even though I have an oil cooler. Also considering my engine mileage is pretty high so a thicker oil (when hot) will reduce oil consumption at high rpm.

[richard_crl032]

3 hours ago, Shibadog said:

That's the good thing abt FA/FB engine. Does the SJG owners' manual have a recommendation for "severe driving conditions"?

In older subies with EJ20/25, there is a recommendation to use a heavier weight oil for "severe driving conditions", which incld city driving, high ambient temperatures etc. For my car, a 5w40 is spec-ed for normal usage but a 50 is recommended for severe driving conditions. Thus I use 5w50/15w50/20w50, even though I have an oil cooler. Also considering my engine mileage is pretty high so a thicker oil (when hot) will reduce oil consumption at high rpm.

Hi Shiba,

Typically quoted ?W/30 for turbo chargef fxt is shown below.

Not sure about ?/50w and din read recommendation for hard driving while logically needing more protection whihc is what eo lubricants are for but you.can see that at weather of Singapore around 32-34 deg, it is already at the upper spec of ?W/30 and I am not even sure if it is ambient temperature which would be even higher.

Indeed when engine has aged, use of thicker eo is needed to reduce oil consumption aka leakages of various aged seals and gasket as well as to reduce further stress to failure on them. It also help retard further worned mechanical parts which are no longer held in original tighter tolerances working against each other.

I err on ?W/40 especially since on motul 300v right after initial 5k and then 10k to hasten purge of factory's eo.

Cheers.

Richard

 

Edited October 11, 2020 by richard_crl032

[OnceInALifeTime]

6 hours ago, thefalcon said:

Oh, actually I use Waxco Auto Silicon Spray. But for the ngek ngek Sound when going over hump, I should take advice from you all to replace the Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing .😅

Using the silicon spray, might solve the issue temporary. But I believe that it might not be able to penetrate to the contact point between the bushing and the swaybar. Even if works, after a drive during heavy rainy day. The silicon lubrication might be washed off and back to square one.

Good choice to change the bushing. No more headache after that! (At least for the few years)

[OnceInALifeTime]

11 hours ago, Shibadog said:

That's the good thing abt FA/FB engine. Does the SJG owners' manual have a recommendation for "severe driving conditions"?

In older subies with EJ20/25, there is a recommendation to use a heavier weight oil for "severe driving conditions", which incld city driving, high ambient temperatures etc. For my car, a 5w40 is spec-ed for normal usage but a 50 is recommended for severe driving conditions. Thus I use 5w50/15w50/20w50, even though I have an oil cooler. Also considering my engine mileage is pretty high so a thicker oil (when hot) will reduce oil consumption at high rpm.

Extract from the current Singapore authorised distributor provided owner's manual.

In this forum, I do see chart seemly resemble to the service manual; which link I had previously posted on this forum. That is USDM for Year 2015.

In that copy, as it is for USDM. There is no indication for the 5W-40 and its recommended ambient temperature.

As in Singapore authorised distributor provided manual has indicated; 5W30 (recommended) or 5W40 engine oil and its range of ambient temperature. Which does not presents usage of 5W40 engine oil rated for higher ambient temperature. Therefore, to claimed that 5W40 engine oil is better suited for higher ambient temperature for SJG in Singapore without evidence is claims without facts.

Simply making claims with reference to USDM service manual to mislead?

Is there really a need to stoop to such an extend to prove one's choice of using 5W-40 engine oil and influence others of own's choice?

To inform that engine oil suitable in cooler climate countries not suitable in tropics. This is totally senseless and illogical.

Do hope that the rest of the owners will do get the right facts for their SJG.

For the remaining who chooses outside the recommended specifications, it's a choice. A personal choice.

 

Edited October 12, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime

[OnceInALifeTime]

34 minutes ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

Extract from the current Singapore authorised distributor provided owner's manual.

In this forum, I do see chart seemly resemble to the service manual; which link I had previously posted on this forum. That is USDM for Year 2015.

In that copy, as it is for USDM. There is no indication for the 5W-40 and its recommended ambient temperature.

As in Singapore authorised distributor provided manual has indicated; 5W30 (recommended) or 5W40 engine oil and its range of ambient temperature. Which does not presents usage of 5W40 engine oil rated for higher ambient temperature. Therefore, to claimed that 5W40 engine oil is better suited for higher ambient temperature for SJG in Singapore without evidence is claims without facts.

Simply making claims with reference to USDM service manual to mislead?

Is there really a need to stoop to such an extend to prove one's choice of using 5W-40 engine oil and influence others of own's choice?

To inform that engine oil suitable in cooler climate countries not suitable in tropics. This is totally senseless and illogical.

Do hope that the rest of the owners will do get the right facts for their SJG.

For the remaining who chooses outside the recommended specifications, it's a choice. A personal choice.

 

[Tohto]

41 minutes ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

Extract from the current Singapore authorised distributor provided owner's manual.

In this forum, I do see chart seemly resemble to the service manual; which link I had previously posted on this forum. That is USDM for Year 2015.

In that copy, as it is for USDM. There is no indication for the 5W-40 and its recommended ambient temperature.

As in Singapore authorised distributor provided manual has indicated; 5W30 (recommended) or 5W40 engine oil and its range of ambient temperature. Which does not presents usage of 5W40 engine oil rated for higher ambient temperature. Therefore, to claimed that 5W40 engine oil is better suited for higher ambient temperature for SJG in Singapore without evidence is claims without facts.

Simply making claims with reference to USDM service manual to mislead?

Is there really a need to stoop to such an extend to prove one's choice of using 5W-40 engine oil and influence others of own's choice?

To inform that engine oil suitable in cooler climate countries not suitable in tropics. This is totally senseless and illogical.

Do hope that the rest of the owners will do get the right facts for their SJG.

For the remaining who chooses outside the recommended specifications, it's a choice. A personal choice.

 

USA, Australia and even Japan summer temperature is much higher than here, it is not uncommon to reach even 40deg C.

Previously when I first bought the FXT in 2016, MI keep pushing for Shell 5W40 oil because likely they get at very cheap price.

Now they switch to Motul 5W30 since they change supplier. But I don't service in MI after the 3 free service provide.

Edited October 12, 2020 by Tohto

[OnceInALifeTime]

12 hours ago, Shibadog said:

That's the good thing abt FA/FB engine. Does the SJG owners' manual have a recommendation for "severe driving conditions"?

In older subies with EJ20/25, there is a recommendation to use a heavier weight oil for "severe driving conditions", which incld city driving, high ambient temperatures etc. For my car, a 5w40 is spec-ed for normal usage but a 50 is recommended for severe driving conditions. Thus I use 5w50/15w50/20w50, even though I have an oil cooler. Also considering my engine mileage is pretty high so a thicker oil (when hot) will reduce oil consumption at high rpm.

Extracted from Owner's Manual.

[Tohto]

18 minutes ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

Extracted from Owner's Manual.

And we are changing oil at 10k interval, which is very kiasu already. Alot of time I changed at around 9k+.

 

[OnceInALifeTime]

1 hour ago, Tohto said:

USA, Australia and even Japan summer temperature is much higher than here, it is not uncommon to reach even 40deg C.

Previously when I first bought the FXT in 2016, MI keep pushing for Shell 5W40 oil because likely they get at very cheap price.

Now they switch to Motul 5W30 since they change supplier. But I don't service in MI after the 3 free service provide.

I too, choose not to return to authorised distributor. (Unless, I do need to have warranty claims on parts.) Because they do not provide the value add.

I would expect them to have sufficient knowledge to advise accordingly too. For the premium paid, in servicing with them.

I can see that there are some here, who shared that they service their vehicles with them to ensure that they will have their warranty coverage. But in actual fact, this is not required. The only requirement is to ensure having proper servicing and servicing records in accordance to requirements. That will be valid for the warranty claims (if any).

The worst lot would be spreading fear of not entitled to warranty if not servicing with the authorised distributor. That is totally misinformation.

At the same time, the current Subaru Motul is only ACEA C2 standards with lower H. T. H. S; 3.2 mPa.s

To sensibly err on being cautious; opt for a ACEA C3 rating engine oil. As the minimum H.T.H.S. would be at 3.5 mPa.s. Not to mentioned, there was a specification of ACEA A3 or A5 engine oil in the manual.

Wow! Your time, you got 3 free service!

For me, I only got 2 free service! 1k and 10k.

Both times were Shell Helix 5W-40, this is also the reason I decide not to return after that. Neither do I find that it make sense to pay additional dollars for Motul 300V engine oil too. Although, there are more fiction modifier in the oil, but racing oil have lesser detergents. Moreover it is still not using the recommended grade of 5W-30.

On both service intervals, I asked the service advisors on the reason of using 5W-40 oil instead of 5W-30 as listed in the owner's manual.

The fun part was; listening to the service advisors then, telling me that due to Singapore weather. It is hot, so have to use 5W40 oil and cannot use 5W30 as it was too thin.

And now, they are using Subaru Motul 5W-30!

haha! So I am wondering now, if due to the COVID-19 situation, weather these days seems to be much cooler. That's why should use 5W-30?

The simple fact is; 5W-30 ACEA A3/B4 or C3 will be sufficient in engine protection. C3 will be better in reducing intake valve deposits as it has lower SAPS than A3/B4, outperforms A3/B4 on fuel economy, oxidation thickening and catalyser protection.

 

 

Edited October 12, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime

[OnceInALifeTime]

1 hour ago, Tohto said:

And we are changing oil at 10k interval, which is very kiasu already. Alot of time I changed at around 9k+.

 

Haha... Engine oil is actually relatively cheap. Unless using Motul, where it seems that the pricing are on the high side for whatsoever reason.

Previously there was also mention of using Motul 300V 5W-40 to 10k service interval. Which recommended against, due to nature of racing oils lacking detergent.

Some might want to optimise the entire usage the oil, to ensure value or money spent on engine oil.

But to use the correct type and grade would be most appropriate protection and most cost savings.

Some might just have personal choice of own grades, share their preference and twisting logic of using or recommending 0W20 engine oil for SJG (which the manufacturer did not recommend). This is simply wrong.

haha... Can change at any shorter intervals too. But primarily, before and after change of engine, the general drive feel should be the same and not seemly better to drive or lesser engine drag after engine oil change.

Edited October 12, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime

[Tohto]

15 minutes ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

Haha... Engine oil is actually relatively cheap. Unless using Motul, where it seems that the pricing are on the high side for whatsoever reason.

Previously there was also mention of using Motul 300V 5W-40 to 10k service interval. Which recommended against, due to nature of racing oils lacking detergent.

Some might want to optimise the entire usage the oil, to ensure value or money spent on engine oil.

But to use the correct type and grade would be most appropriate protection and most cost savings.

Some might just have personal choice of own grades, share their preference and twisting logic of using 0W20 engine oil for SJG (which the manufacture did not recommend)

 

Yes, that was the time when MI give all excuse must use the Shell 5W40 oil. Which they definitely  get at very low cost.

From beginning I never like shell EO. Always felt engine become rough after 6 - 7k km. Personally I prefer Castrol.

Just nice my service WS is using Castrol.

[OnceInALifeTime]

8 minutes ago, Tohto said:

Yes, that was the time when MI give all excuse must use the Shell 5W40 oil. Which they definitely  get at very low cost.

From beginning I never like shell EO. Always felt engine become rough after 6 - 7k km. Personally I prefer Castrol.

Just nice my service WS is using Castrol.

haha... Better do not say this, " MI give all excuse must use the Shell 5W40 oil. Which they definitely  get at very low cost."

Wait, some will claim that it is just simply based on your guesswork and speculations against design specifications. Start to mention on experiences on previous car models, drive-ability. Or 0W20 Engine Oil for SJG.

Castrol Edge Titanium? What is the ACEA rating?

Edited October 12, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime

[OnceInALifeTime]

23 hours ago, Tohto said:

Tuned does not mean always need to cheong red line or high speed.

Tuned can improve the low end torque. Our FXT max torque start at 2.4k rpm which is consider very high for modern 2.0L turbo engine. Look at Merc or BMW, their 2.0L turbo max torque are all obtain at low 1k rpm.

My FXT is tuned, my max torque after tuned obtain is less than 2k rpm. Definitely better drive than default. 

Car tuned at just after 10k mileage, currently 4.5yrs. 132k km. Still driving very smooth and strong. I expecting to continue drive this car till at least 8 to 9 yrs.

BTW I only used 5W30 engine oil. As our owner manual suggest which I always prefer thinner oil.

I know you only believe  in 5W40.

Where you tune your vehicle?

I thought that SJG max torque will reach when engine speed hits 2k rpm and all the way till approximately 4.8k rpm? (Correction: it should be 2.4k rpm till 3.6k rpm)

Therefore, there is a possibility to tune the torque band from 2k rpm to 4.8k rpm!

Can share more details?

Edited October 12, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime
Correction

[OnceInALifeTime]

1 hour ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

Where you tune your vehicle?

I thought that SJG max torque will reach when engine speed hits 2k rpm and all the way till approximately 4.8k rpm? (Correction: it should be 2.4k rpm till 3.6k rpm)

Therefore, there is a possibility to tune the torque band from 2k rpm to 4.8k rpm!

Can share more details?

Believe that the following should be the existing Power Torque curve.

 

Edited October 12, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime

[shutterbox]

22 hours ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

To sensibly err on being cautious; opt for a ACEA C3 rating engine oil. As the minimum H.T.H.S. would be at 3.5 mPa.s. Not to mentioned, there was a specification of ACEA A3 or A5 engine oil in the manual.

...

The simple fact is; 5W-30 ACEA A3/B4 or C3 will be sufficient in engine protection. C3 will be better in reducing intake valve deposits as it has lower SAPS than A3/B4, outperforms A3/B4 on fuel economy, oxidation thickening and catalyser protection.

 

 

seeing that you do some research, what EO do you then use or recommend, that meets the specifications that are talking about?

[OnceInALifeTime]

3 hours ago, shutterbox said:

seeing that you do some research, what EO do you then use or recommend, that meets the specifications that are talking about?

You can review the previous post that I had posted.

In summary, I will go for engine oil that is 5W-30 ACEA C3 rated.

Reasons:

1. Lower SAPS - To prevent carbon build up on intake valves, fuel economy, oxidation thickening and catalyser protection (Note: C3 is mid SAPS. C4 is Low SAPS)
2. Minimum 3.5 mPa.s. HTHS at 150 degC - To provide best possible protection for the engine

Other than that, I will try to go for oil that that will meet VW504/507 standards too.

Extracted from: https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

As long as fulfill the mentioned criteria, I will use. No longer specific to brand.

Previously, before I had receive and accepted delivery of my SJG in 2018. I had brought 2 cartons of Motul X-Clean+. (24 x 1 litre bottles)

After that, I noticed that there is something weird. Their datasheet have changes.

I had then stopped purchasing Motul. (I would prefer higher HTHS whenever possible)

The pricing for Motul is a premium. There are many other brand of oil out there at lower cost and serve the same purpose.

Other than the specifications that I follow, I can't recommend you, brand of engine oil to use.

As in the above datasheets provided (I am unable to attached pdf files here and only screenshots), there are possibly changes along the way for whatsoever reason.

Therefore, better to check every time you purchase.

Next, look at packing or production dates on the bottles. Try not to obtain those more than 5 years old. It is not because the engine oil goes bad. As the oil is blended with additives and to achieve homogeneous product , after long period of storage. It might not be stable anymore.

Actually, this not rocket science. It's just information widely available online and trust specifications and approval from accredited body. Such as API, ACEA, ILSAC, JASO.  (Then opt for the most stringent and suitable specifications of the time)

It is not about the motor oil brand at all. (Isn't mass production is to achieve the economy of scale? So to reduce cost and lower pricing of end product?)

Motor Racing sponsorship or involvement might sounds exotic. But it is just marketing, just like saying. If the oil is good for Rally, F1, 24hours Le Mans or whatsoever. It must be good for your car.

But... Oil used for those cars in those events are different from what we use daily. Neither are we driving those cars too. So should we blindly use race oils in our vehicles?

Some might say that it is good. Some might say no.

I would say, it is individual choice; it is individual vehicle. So it is impossible to say good or bad. But it is also not right to claim that it is the best or correct or right.

For me, I will not use race oil at all. As I do not put my SJG to track, even if I do. After track, I will change immediately. For it is not that suitable for daily usage. It's high in friction modifier additives but lesser detergent additives. (When do we see race vehicles stop and go at crossings or traffic lights? Don't they go around the track non-stop and only pitstop?) It's all about application.

We are unable to say which oil is good or bad. But we can say that it is suitable for different applications. At the similar time, 5W-30 engine oil will be more stable than a 5W-40 engine oil (If both are of the same rating, for e.g. A4/B4). Why?

As a 5W-40 engine oil would have to use more viscosity modifier to achieve a wider range of viscosity. Whereas, 5W-30 engine oil will have a smaller range. (When the viscosity modifier breaks down, it no longer can maintain the supposed multi-grade oil.)

Extracted from: https://www.oronite.com/products-technology/viscosity-modifiers/default.aspx

If the oil properties is not suitable for the application, there will be a permanent shear and it is totally irreversible to the initial stage viscosity. It also means that the oil had broken down and no longer able to properly protect.

So would we want the most appropriate product to protect our engine?

Should we trust specifications and datasheets to select the most appropriate product? Or we should trust word of mouth, marketing and experience of others on other applications?

Hope that the above shared information will help.

 

 

Edited October 13, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime
References