2015 Forester 2.0

[Fumio74]

What is your definition of comfort? Feel less road imperfections and less bumpy? Feel more stable/planted at high speed? I asked becos comfort is highly subjective.

 

I’m not sure if the STi pink springs (or any other lowering spring) would improve comfort as it’s meant to be a performance enhancement mod. Lowering springs are stiffer so you will naturally feel more road imperfections but the car would be more stable/planted because the car is lower.

 

I’ve installed the “vibration control” front and rear dampers. It helps a little but in my honest opinion, the $ is better spent elsewhere if you are looking to improve comfort.

 

There’s not much you can do to enhance the comfort of a stock car which is tuned for comfort over performance. The more/thicker braces/bars/bushings you add, the car becomes stiffer, comfort level will drop. Do you realise that the thicker STi rear sway bar will cause your car to jolt up and down more if the left or right wheel goes over a bump (or into a pothole) first? The upside is there is less body roll when you are driving fast round a bend. Most mods come with both pros and cons.

 

1 way you can improve comfort is to downsize the tyres (and rims). Thicker tyres provide more cushioning from road imperfections. But if you are already on 17”, do you want to make the tyres even smaller? And you need to invest in a new set of 16” rims. Or you can upsize the tyre profile but your speedometer will be off and you may feel the car is slightly sluggish during acceleration.

 

Another way is to replace your stock dampers with Cusco touring A dampers. These struts have adjustable damping and you can turn down the damping to very comfy setting, almost like riding on thick, fat tyres. But the handling is also like riding on thick, fat tyres when you drive around a bend...

 

Thanks James! i finally know why i have the issues for my FNA you just explained! lol

 

1st mod: changed my ARB to 24mm Super pro 

 

2nd Mod: changed from 225/60/17 to 235/50/18 - immediately feel chassis slightly rock left right at very slow speed(like 20kmh) in a mscp smooth surface. Was thinking something wrong with the rims or new tyre.

 

i also agree that profile at 60 with more rubber should have better cushioning effect and therefore more "comfort" feeling because we do not feel the road imperfections anymore.

 

3rd mode: Changed to Tein Flex Z with Cusco Camber arm and after alignment. At slow speed still feel the Chassis rock right and left. However at higher speed probably also because of the lowered height My FNA stability improved a lot and no more "floating" feeling like what many complained.

 

i have no other bars installed or replaced. So do you think if i changed back to the stock arb, the slight rocking at very slow speed will disappear or reduced?

 

i have 4 FXT driver tested my car at normal to higher speed and no one think there are any issues with my drive. i think its because stock fxt with 225/55/18 wheels and firmer spring/damper already have "lesser" comfort but better handling maybe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Epsilon]

Does anyone has the Cusco part number for the brake cylinder stopper? Asked Richard but I could open his link as it keeps giving me error.

 

Thanks

[Jamesgetz]

Thanks James! i finally know why i have the issues for my FNA you just explained! lol

 

1st mod: changed my ARB to 24mm Super pro

 

2nd Mod: changed from 225/60/17 to 235/50/18 - immediately feel chassis slightly rock left right at very slow speed(like 20kmh) in a mscp smooth surface. Was thinking something wrong with the rims or new tyre.

 

i also agree that profile at 60 with more rubber should have better cushioning effect and therefore more "comfort" feeling because we do not feel the road imperfections anymore.

 

3rd mode: Changed to Tein Flex Z with Cusco Camber arm and after alignment. At slow speed still feel the Chassis rock right and left. However at higher speed probably also because of the lowered height My FNA stability improved a lot and no more "floating" feeling like what many complained.

 

i have no other bars installed or replaced. So do you think if i changed back to the stock arb, the slight rocking at very slow speed will disappear or reduced?

 

i have 4 FXT driver tested my car at normal to higher speed and no one think there are any issues with my drive. i think its because stock fxt with 225/55/18 wheels and firmer spring/damper already have "lesser" comfort but better handling maybe.

 

The rocking feeling will be reduced if you switch back to stock. My FXT used to be on Cusco 26mm front ARB and whiteline 22mm adjustable rear ARB. Car handled well going round bends on smoothly paved roads like expressway exits.

 

But on uneven patchy roads, the car feels like its bouncing all over the place. My mileage is 25,000km per year and I travel to Tuas area frequently. Eventually, I buay tahan the bounciness and went back to stock front ARB (24mm) with rear STi ARB (20mm).

 

Not sure about the FNA, but the FXT stock rear ARB is only 16mm. 24mm ARB is actually a lot stiffer than 16mm though the diameter is only 50% more. Check out the chart below:

https://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Update%20BL-281.PDF

 

Your tein Flex z is damping adjustable. Can try tweaking the damping settings until you find the optimum level

[spawn101]

Bros, my fuel consumption for my 3.5  year XT after the recent 40k servicing and tyre change  is horrible. I am not sure if it is related because of servicing or it is due to engine wear and tear as it age. what are your fuel consumption like?

 

• Recent (after 40km servicing, change stock tyre to Primacy 3 ST)
  • 13-15L/100km. 
  • driving 6km to office and back everyday
• 1.5-3 year
  • 10-12L/km
• 0-1.5 year
  • 7- 8L /100km

[Jamesgetz]

Does anyone has the Cusco part number for the brake cylinder stopper? Asked Richard but I could open his link as it keeps giving me error.

 

Thanks

Check with BKS woodlands. I bought mine from them with installation.

 

Buying online maybe cheaper but it’s not an expensive item... and you still need to pay for labour separately.

[richard_crl032]

Does anyone has the Cusco part number for the brake cylinder stopper? Asked Richard but I could open his link as it keeps giving me error.

 

Thanks

Hi Epilson,

 

Oops .. here:

 

CUSCO / クスコ ブレ-キペダル補強プレ-ト スバル/SUBARU フォレスタ- SJ5 / SJG スチ-ル製クスコブル-仕上げ 965-486-AN

 

Other than mentioned steering damper which mine is from torque solution, this inexpensive thickened steering stiffening plate also to get you the less flimsy steering feel:

 

STI - Subaru】 【Subaru genuine】 "34166VA010 / 34166VA020" Electric power steering clamp stiffener left and right set for revog STI

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[richard_crl032]

Bros, my fuel consumption for my 3.5 year XT after the recent 40k servicing and tyre change is horrible. I am not sure if it is related because of servicing or it is due to engine wear and tear as it age. what are your fuel consumption like?

 

• Recent (after 40km servicing, change stock tyre to Primacy 3 ST)
  • 13-15L/100km.
  • driving 6km to office and back everyday
• 1.5-3 year
  • 10-12L/km
• 0-1.5 year
  • 7- 8L /100km

Hi Spawn,

 

Added ICE, SP, more ARBs/Struts etc. ?

 

Changed rims and wider profile tyres from stock in earlier years ?

 

Changed office to city locations or hittong office peak hours with jammed roads more often or no more kids' tuition on weekend to go on hwy ? Nevertheless, recent traffic is noicably worse than ever during peak hours.

 

Too many variables but sure, DIT engine with inherent oil built-up and hot hot turbo ages everything more... I use octane98, motul 300v eo change every 6-8k km (not 10k km !), up bonnet as I drive onto my driveway and also installed AOS as precautionary measures:

 

http://mywikimotors.com/subaru-fa20/

 

For this engine it is necessary to use the best quality gasoline, and also to use original high-quality engine oil and change it twice more often than it is recommended. It will allow to keep reliability and will increase an engine resource.

 

Go try decarbonisation and engine cleaning like what some bros recommend although not easy to remove built-up ? Start using octane 98 petrol ??

 

For 3.5yr old and even only 40k km, you should change out cvt oil now and not recommended 90-100k km ... your eo also obviously changed out only about 1 year is also no no to me. Btw, 3.5 yr old tyres also a no no to me as thread may look nice but rubber probably harden and passed its optimum condition.

 

Btw, driving 6km to and from office at 15l/100km now is still betta than 7.5l/100km if you drive 12.1km to and fro office .. lol !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

 

PS: 42k km on odometer after 1.5 yr collecting my fxt

Edited May 22, 2019 by richard_crl032

[Epsilon]

Does anyone has the Cusco part number for the brake cylinder stopper? Asked Richard but I could open his link as it keeps giving me error.

 

Thanks

Thanks and I got the part number.

[spawn101]

Hi Richard,

 

Mod:

• STI WRX 20mm ARB
• Pink Springs

Fuel

• Esso 8000

Tyre

• primacy st 225/55R18
• around same time as 40K servicing

For recent 40k servicing:

• EO Motul 10W40 300V
• CVT oil changed
• Xado front & rear differential oil (gear box leak fix)
• Neuto engine cleaning

 

Location of driving

• still the same.
• maybe i did not accumulate enough driving as i do drive further during weekend and like go to malaysia once every few months.

 

Don't think it is a big issue but just making sure it is not an early symptom of  something bigger  

Especially since i spent a lot on the ride recently

 

Hi Spawn,

Added ICE, SP, more ARBs/Struts etc. ?

Changed rims and wider profile tyres from stock in earlier years ?

Changed office to city locations or hittong office peak hours with jammed roads more often or no more kids' tuition on weekend to go on hwy ? Nevertheless, recent traffic is noicably worse than ever during peak hours.

Too many variables but sure, DIT engine with inherent oil built-up and hot hot turbo ages everything more... I use octane98, motul 300v eo change every 6-8k km (not 10k km !), up bonnet as I drive onto my driveway and also installed AOS as precautionary measures:

http://mywikimotors.com/subaru-fa20/

For this engine it is necessary to use the best quality gasoline, and also to use original high-quality engine oil and change it twice more often than it is recommended. It will allow to keep reliability and will increase an engine resource.

Go try decarbonisation and engine cleaning like what some bros recommend although not easy to remove built-up ? Start using octane 98 petrol ??

For 3.5yr old and even only 40k km, you should change out cvt oil now and not recommended 90-100k km ... your eo also obviously changed out only about 1 year is also no no to me. Btw, 3.5 yr old tyres also a no no to me as thread may look nice but rubber probably harden and passed its optimum condition.

Btw, driving 6km to and from office at 15l/100km now is still betta than 7.5l/100km if you drive 12.1km to and fro office .. lol !

Cheers.

Richard

PS: 42k km on odometer after 1.5 yr collecting my fxt

 

Edited May 22, 2019 by spawn101

[richard_crl032]

Hi Richard,

 

Mod:

• STI WRX 20mm ARB
• Pink Springs

Fuel

• Esso 8000

Tyre

• primacy st 225/55R18
• around same time as 40K servicing

For recent 40k servicing:

• EO Motul 10W40 300V
• CVT oil changed
• Xado front & rear differential oil (gear box leak fix)
• Neuto engine cleaning

Location of driving

• still the same.
• maybe i did not accumulate enough driving as i do drive further during weekend and like go to malaysia once every few months.

Don't think it is a big issue but just making sure it is not an early symptom of something bigger

Especially since i spent a lot on the ride recently

Hi Spawn,

 

7-8l/100km to 13-15l/100k is almost doubled which does smell fishy and something IS wrong ...even my 1.5yr old fxt with added about 80-100kg of SP, ICE, extra battery and 100% on Sports mode via blitz SI jump starter does 13-15l/100km when with 90/10 city/hwy driving.

 

There should be some assignable cause which I dun see why in your provided details and believe you need to ask MI to check.

 

Btw, some believe motul 300v meant for racing application should not be used for 10km .. this is especially if you only do 10k km in 1 year which is not typical.

 

Hope it revert to more typical 9-10km/l or find out the cause.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[Rainman]

Bros, my fuel consumption for my 3.5 year XT after the recent 40k servicing and tyre change is horrible. I am not sure if it is related because of servicing or it is due to engine wear and tear as it age. what are your fuel consumption like?

 

• Recent (after 40km servicing, change stock tyre to Primacy 3 ST)
  • 13-15L/100km.
  • driving 6km to office and back everyday
• 1.5-3 year
  • 10-12L/km
• 0-1.5 year
  • 7- 8L /100km

Haha conincidentally mine after 40k servicing and tyre change to latitude sports is also terrible

 

15l/100km, after some highway run now getting 13.4l/100km still very bad..... dunno y

[Rainman]

The rocking feeling will be reduced if you switch back to stock. My FXT used to be on Cusco 26mm front ARB and whiteline 22mm adjustable rear ARB. Car handled well going round bends on smoothly paved roads like expressway exits.

 

But on uneven patchy roads, the car feels like its bouncing all over the place. My mileage is 25,000km per year and I travel to Tuas area frequently. Eventually, I buay tahan the bounciness and went back to stock front ARB (24mm) with rear STi ARB (20mm).

 

Not sure about the FNA, but the FXT stock rear ARB is only 16mm. 24mm ARB is actually a lot stiffer than 16mm though the diameter is only 50% more. Check out the chart below:

https://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Update%20BL-281.PDF

 

Your tein Flex z is damping adjustable. Can try tweaking the damping settings until you find the optimum level

After changing to pink spring with stock damper, it alleviates most of the small bumps of the roads and cars feel much planted and stable, the floatiness is also mostly gone. Most apparently improvement for me will be the rear bouciness when going over normal hump at normal speed.

 

Even with my profile 60 tires The ride is still harsh but less busy, fortunately for the routes Which i usually took, I think it’s a good compromise. As a whole the ride still feel hard and not as compliant as I wished for.

[Doggyfoo]

Haha conincidentally mine after 40k servicing and tyre change to latitude sports is also terrible

 

15l/100km, after some highway run now getting 13.4l/100km still very bad..... dunno y

Are u guys like flooring the accelerator whenever u got the chance??

[bluesky3000]

great thread, really a fan of the forester 2.0

[ECONOMIC]

Suggest owners here to tone down the tuning or buy a different car. Simply because tuning doesn't mean better and it cost money.

 

Forester is factory tuned for compromising between on road and off road. It is not meant as a mainly on road vehicle. Hence the undesirable characteristics like bounciness when on road. When off road, it is one of the best or even the best in the world for the price.

 

Unless you buy suspension system with tuning done by experts like from Subaru with software looking at damping factors of system, weight of you and your car, speed you normally drive and the resultant force etc, you will be striking a lottery if you get it right by yourself choosing a suspension setup.

 

If you want minimal rolling at corners, and stability, suggest you can buy a saloon or a sport car. My point is, your car has been tuned by engineers during design stage for a purpose. Don't spend too much money in it already, which make it different and not necessary all better in every situation.

Edited May 22, 2019 by ECONOMIC

[dino80]

forester a clumsy car, not suitable in sg in my opinion, there is no place for it. see the name and tell me where in sg fits this in. period.

[Carhorn]

forester a clumsy car, not suitable in sg in my opinion, there is no place for it. see the name and tell me where in sg fits this in. period.

our money, we shiok.

 

i also hv motorbike, scrambler, scooter, saloon car at home.

 

can u?

[gearStick]

forester a clumsy car, not suitable in sg in my opinion, there is no place for it. see the name and tell me where in sg fits this in. period.

Opinion is like anal orifice. Everybody else has it. Look for the proper tree or lamppost.