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Sound proofing spray


Den88
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Neutral Newbie

I will try to take out my wheel and spray the inside to see if there is any effect.

 

By the way this item is fammable, from what I see from the instruction.

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All,

 

Just last week, I went to my regular bitumen sheets supplier to buy bitumen rolls for fellow forummers to do DIY soundproofing on their cars. This bitumen sheet is a 'permanent' sound deadening sheet pasted from within the cabin, unlike those undercarriage spray-on bitumen which would wear thin over time. Being a commonly used DIY material, it is also considerable cheaper compared to other types of branded/professional sound deadening sheets available at car audio installers.

 

I had collected an extra roll of bitumen sheets in case someone calls me for it at the last minute like the last time.

 

The dimensions are 1.6mm x 1m x 20m. Its weight is rougly 35kg (quite heavy and dense material). Price is $165.

 

If interested, can sms or call me at 97939121.

 

Thanks.

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don't think you will feel sound dampening effect...turning up radio volume may work better [laugh]. More for keeping rust at bay; also, wear mask before spray hor! Not good for lungs [thumbsdown] ! CHEERS! and happy DIY!

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Neutral Newbie

This is what I had done to my car, perhaps you can try this too.

 

Noise in the cabin happens via 2 ways... vibration through the panels (called reverberation) and passing through materials (penetration).

 

2 things to check... panel rigidity and layering. Panel that sound hollow when tapped lightly with the handle of a screwdriver will cause reverberation. You need dense bitumen sheets for that. Panels that do not have any covering at least 9mm thick will let noise penetrate into the cabin.

 

Soundproofing (the way I did mine)

1. Wheel Arches. Remove the inner wheel liners. Check for gaps between front quarter panel and structure. Line and cover gap with Foam. Tap the metal inner structure for hollowness and stick Bitument and Foam.

2. Floor pan. Check carpet and fibre mat thickness. Check floor pan for any bitumen sheet present. Stic Bitument on the large flat sections preferbely 1 entire sheet or diagonal strips if you do not have enough. Lay Foam to completely cover the floor pan.

3. Doors. Remove inner trim and check the outskin's rigidity. Add water proofed type bitument. Do the same to the inner skin of the door paying particular attention to any holes or gaps (the door will then make a great speaker box too!).

4. Boot section. Do same for the boot floor. Locate the air vent at the rear quarter section, seal and foam it.

 

You will need to know how to remove the inerior trim seats and seat belt mountings.Of course it will take a lot of hard work... but with perserverence and patience you'll have yourself a pretty quiet ride.

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wow....sounds professional but problem is i would be more confident with it if i had seen someone perform it or do it with help.

 

hehe.....how about a demo session for me [sly]

 

kopi or meal on me [nod]

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To take apart the door is chicken feet .. I've taken out mine more than 10 times ... sound proof, change speakers, amendment etc ...

 

I try to explore by taking out the door panel, but found 1 pin only... [confused]

 

Any other method??? I scare i may break the plastic panel's clip. [knife]

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my 2 cts as a user of TuffKote and Soundkiller. TuffKote cannot make it at all.

 

--------

armaflex. For 1/2" thickness goto Far East Refrigeration or Central referigation. 2' x 4'

 

$9+ per sheet

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Neutral Newbie
Sorry overstated.

 

I got the brochure now.

 

Tuff-cote does comes with sound clad......I renewed my coat and it's stated in the tuff-cote servicing book that I was given.

 

Sound-Clad plus is using 1.5mm damping sheets.

 

 

Life is getting better. [thumbsup]

 

Any idea how much is the Sound Clad Plus?

 

[rolleyes]

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