Thicker oil as engine ages?

[Genie47]

This is an ongoing discussion at BITOG: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultima...ic;f=1;t=008895

 

I know that some of you have pretty decent but old engines. Some highlights:

 

Dr. T:

Although often necessary, I don't like it. It's more of a band-aid. I'm more of the thought of rather use a 'better' viscosity right off the bat rather than patching up the situation later on.

Terry:

Why not use a lube formulation and viscosity chosen using oil analysis early in the engines life, that optimizes wear reduction and seal stability ?

 

Mitigating the need for "thicker oils".

 

Ken2:

To oversimplify, bigger bearing clearances require higher viscosity oil. There are many other considerations. If I had a high mileage car where I saw a decrease of oil pressure compared to new, I'd use the thicker oil to get the oil pressure back up to where is was.

 

I understand, this is just a bandaid. It is still a nearly-wornout engine.

[Mavvy]

mabbe... mabbe not

Edited December 2, 2004 by Mavvy

[Hattee]

Issit true most people only interested on how good the oil when it starts running in the engine?

 

Seems too few border how bad it ended before oil change.

 

wat's an irony.

[Genie47]

Shows the importance of getting it right in the early stages. But I must admit after reading my own user manual, the car manufacturers always screw us. 10W40 - 20W05 but in another section car needs at SL grade and ILSAC GF3 . Where got meaning! There are no GF3 oil at 10W40 - 20W50! If you follow the thread, there is confusion over the Audi 1.8T requirements. Could be translation from German and my case translation from Korean.

 

I think most agree that you fix the engine of all the worn seals is better alternative to a thick oil. Thick oil is a band aid and nothing more. I think there is a conspiracy in SG where the mechanics recommend thick 20W50 oil to fix your leaks so as to screw your engine up more. Engine up lorry and they got work ready cut out for them thanks to the thick engine oil they recommended earlier.

[Genie47]

Most oils are good and if your users manual is not screwed up like mine and you followed the recommendations, I believe the engine is OK. Toyota has very good manuals with clear instructions.

 

I think the best solution for anyone who don't want to invest in UOA screening is to buy a cheap good oil and have an OCI of 5k or 10k with syn oil. Maybe do UOA once a year to see if the seals are going to bad.

[Mavvy]

that's why initial break in and usage of good oil is very important...

[Elfenstar]

As Mavvy's sig says, Redline is the best!

[Genie47]

Not for every engine.

[Mavvy]

Its proven...

 

Been using that after initial break-in till now...

[Turbobrick]

Can't agreed more, thick oil is used to cover up leaky seals and if the engine has been well cared for (even with regular dino oil changes) there shouldn't be leaks that requires a thick oil to "cover up". Imagine SG mechs working in cold climate countries, mati lah, put 20W-50 in sub-zero climate.....engine seize owner also blur