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DIY Battery Desulfator


Vertiga
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Neutral Newbie
I did check with few of my overseas suppliers for 12v desulfators regarding the different types and mothod of breaking down the sulphate costing but apparent all are retailing at not less than USD 105 per unit in their markeplaces.The price did not include postage and handling charges.The one from the north seems to very very very low cost. All desulfators powered directly by the vehicle battery without any 220v source will need about 0.2 to 0.4 watt of power even when the engine is stwich off.

Check your alternator output, if it is not doing a good job, ultimately the battery power will be drain off.

 

well, considering that u can even DIY yr own desulfator at probably half the cost of the one that's selling up north, I think the one from the north is still ok cos it's mass produced. The more impt qn is how do u know if it's really working or not, or it's just a box with blinking leds? One way is u can treat it as a VS lor, cos VS also u can't be sure that it's working as what it should. In fact I was wondering, VS claims to smoothen out the spikes in the electrical system and make it 'cleaner' so that the ECU can respond better rite? So duno if can use OBD2 scanners to see got any diff in the sensor readings after a VS is installed.. hmm..

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I have read quite alot about desulphater, but one question remains.

 

Does it really work?

 

Many are skeptical if the device work. I am also beginning to question it because I am not fully convince of the explaination that the sulphate molecules that attached to the lead plate will get dislodge by the pulsing from the desulphater.

 

Has anyone prove it? Please enlighten me with test results.

 

Good question, I'm trying to find the answers too.

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I guess for the desulfator, you could still test the battery voltage across the terminals to see whether they increase over time ( days? weeks? months? ) It would be more difficult for VS and that's why most of the claims are thru improvement in FC and dyno.

 

Personally, the best DIY I've done so far ( and also the ONE AND ONLY [laugh]) is grounding the -ve terminal of my battery to the chassis. The results ... smooth auto transmission shifting [thumbsup] Cost.. ZERO... the cable was my old Z-Stab.

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Neutral Newbie
Great that u managed to DIY the desulphator yourself! thumbsup.gif

 

I recently read abt this batt desulphator in MCF and eventually got myself a Sulfarid for $47 from our neighbour up north. wave.gif

 

Well, my 1yr 8mnths old batt that came with my new car was around 14.5v during engine running and around 12.2v when off. After installing the Sulfarid for 3 weeks now, I recently found that voltage maintained at 12.5v when engine just switch off smile.gif but eventually dropped to 11.8v after sometime... frown.gif

The Sulfarid has this LED indicator and the red LED lighted up to warn of my batt low voltage. sweatdrop.gif

 

Well, it could well be my batt going to die soon but I was hoping the Sulfarid could do some wonders to bring it back to life but it didnt... i shall monitor for another week see if miracle does happen. If not I shall dump the batt and install a new one.

 

Actually seems like your eqp is working. According to this article, http://www.homepower.com/files/desulfator.pdf the voltage supposed to drop as the batteries become more efficient. [;)]

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I didn't DIY the unit , Vertiga is the one. Sulphator are designed to produce very high frequecies and are intermiittently send into the battery plates to get max result. If you have a high class oscilloscope , I beelive you can scope the frequecy pattern.

Alternator output is AC and retificied to DC. In the rectification process not all AC are convert to DC - if the AC percent is high , it will overtime cause damage to yr battery and other sensors and electrical accessories.

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Hmm... from what the author wrote, indeed my desulphator seems to be going in the right direction.

 

But author didnt mention whether the voltage will actually go back upward after some time of desulphating?

Cos I presume higher voltage = alternator charging well + battery holding charge well? Hmm... dizzy.gif

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Neutral Newbie

when I say 'u diy the unit', i didn't literally mean u, it was just a figure of speech. I should have said, 'when someone diys the unit' to be more clear. [laugh] But anyway, I didn't understand what u said bout the oscillator stuff.. my electronics standard not that good.

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Neutral Newbie

shouldn't the voltage go back to to somewhere near it's original voltage when it was new? The whole idea of the desulfator is to make the batt back to near original condition mah, which means the voltage shd be higher than b4 u started desulfating .. correct?

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im on sulfarid also...

 

the yellow light gets switched off after some time, but the red light never gets on..... so i think you better get your battery checked or replaced [sweatdrop]

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Most of sulflator makers have only one Red LED built into the unit to indicate power ON. If the battery power drop to certain level the Red LED is off.

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Hmm...thats what I tot so too but apparently the author of the article stated otherwise. Now gotta wait for more inputs from other gurus see if voltage drop is normal and if the voltage will rise back after sometime of desulphator usage. confused.gif

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yep, my green light will also go off after some time I switch off engine. Due to non-charging I suppose?

 

I realise my red light will come on after about 1 day of not switching on my engine. Will monitor see how these following weeks.

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