Turbo size..

[Dennisk]

how to know whether will engine able to withstand the boost?

[Robo]

hmmm that im really not sure.. not into tc modding... but wad i know is that the cc of the engine has to be of a certain cc to be able to match the psi of boost..

 

 

maybe the gurus here can help better

[BMW320i]

Are you aware that the VF22 I used was on a stock block ?

 

If money is no object I could opt for a 2.2L cosworth long motor and get boost to kick in at 3000rpm all the way to 8000rpm and it will still continue to make power pass its redline.

 

There is only so much you can do with a standard block.

 

Just out of curiosity, did you replace all of the above but left your crankshaft standard ?

[BMW320i]

Simple.

 

You test it to destruction and note which components gave up first.

 

As mentioned before in other threads, in regards to 4G63 blocks, one of the rally support workshop has identified that the con rods and piston heads are usually the first to give up when running at 1.6 bar of boost.

 

Before some of the Evo owners come in and say, "My ebolution runs on 1.6 bar no problem, wtf are you talking about". Let me just say that Rally cars run on antilag set up which builds up over 1 bar of boost ready on tap. If anyone's car is subjected to such punishment and still capable of driving all day everyday, I would suggest they apply as Chief Mechanic for Subaru.

 

Back to the topic. You can always calculate how much boost you can run at. You cannot however calculate when your parts are going to give up.

 

Unless a workshop has blown many engines to test the tolerance limits of the block, there are no fast and hard figures. Driving styles also plays a part in which you may notice why some people blow things quicker than others.

[Rb26dett]

ah my bad i do not know u r on stock block and its not meant to be an arguement in any sort.

whichever way it is Vf22 is still a pretty good turbo but personally i would pick a Vf34 or a evoIII 16G .

the crankshaft i am using is from BC.

on a side note almost went for a inverted manifold setup but cost is too huge for the conversion.was glad i didnt went for it as i sold my ride soon after that.

[Dennisk]

the terms you all use abit cheem for me... no idea what is things like Vf22, Vf34......etc

[BMW320i]

No worries.

 

Although the VF22 is good, I still prefer the VF34 after comparing it. The VF34's response is just incredible for a stock block.

 

Are the BC cranks nitrate treated or billet ?

 

If given a stroker option I would go with TD05 and select a compressor wheel that gives a best overall torque.

 

Reversed manifold is only needed if you intend to go FMIC. Heat soak can be a problem during traffic jam situation. In any case reversing the manifold shortens the FMIC pipes significantly. In saying that if I'm not wrong AC unit and something else has to be relocated. A friend of mine is running the setup above with TD06-25G on C16 fuel. Puts down mid 11 seconds at the quartermile. Its so fast its not funny anymore.

[Rb26dett]

my bc are billet steel.stroker kits are nice but out of my budget after i've dump in all those money into my ride.i have to agree with u on the part on the fmic as the main reason why i want to run reverse is due to the length of the intercooler hoses.end up i have to custom and reposition part of the pipings to make it slightly shorter as well as it is blocking the position of my oil cooler.no matter the reverse manifold or a V-mount is still out of my budget.so all i can do is to make use of what i have on hand and also what my budget allows.11 mid at 1/4mile is no joke definately.