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Do you exercise yr car`s engine?


Ithunk
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Rough rule of thumb for more spirited drive and to maintain healthy engine:

 

1st gear: change gear at 3K

2nd gear: change gear at 3 ~ 4 K

> 3rd gear: just whack till 5K (still very safe. Redline for most engines is >6K niah)

 

How do you apply the above to AT or CVT gearbox? [wave]

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How do you apply the above to AT or CVT gearbox? [wave]

 

For 4AT, drive it like a manual. Press gas pedal harder than you normally do when moving off till rpm is 3K or more, ease off a bit, ECU will sense that u wanna upshift. U are now in gear 2, press hard further, rpm climb up to your desired engine speed, ease off again, gear upshifts again.

 

U may not get it first time though. Need some practices and time for ECU to be conditioned to new driving style.

 

If you drive normally (press a bit and hold continuously), gear change normally at 2K or lesser (which is bad in long term - carbon buildups and bad fuel economy for VTEC and DVVT, -> engine sluggish and u may encounter difficulty when doing overtaking).

 

CVT: will never touch it if can avoid.

Edited by Kangadrool
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but how do u determined that if the carbons' cleared? my bro-in-law kept asking me to do it but i feel no diff...

 

I used to drive a Sunny (manual). Once in a while will travel on NSHW, during the first 20 min or so, car seems hard to accelerate, engine sounds rough and noisy. Hard to get pass 120 km/h, at this speed engine is roaring. Usually will take a rest after 20-30 min on NSHW after passing custom.

 

Then after the rest, can feel car is much more responsive, easy to rev. and engine is smooth and sounds quiet. Even passengers can feel it. At this moment, 140-160 km/h is easier to reach and quieter than 120 km/h previously.

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For 4AT, drive it like a manual. Press gas pedal harder than you normally do when moving off till rpm is 3K or more, ease off a bit, ECU will sense that u wanna upshift. U are now in gear 2, press hard further, rpm climb up to your desired engine speed, ease off again, gear upshifts again.

 

U may not get it first time though. Need some practices and time for ECU to be conditioned to new driving style.

 

If you drive normally (press a bit and hold continuously), gear change normally at 2K or lesser (which is bad in long term - carbon buildups and bad fuel economy for VTEC and DVVT, -> engine sluggish and u may encounter difficulty when doing overtaking).

 

CVT: will never touch it if can avoid.

 

Thanks for your sharing. Btw, I am on CVT. [drivingcar]

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Thanks for your sharing. Btw, I am on CVT. [drivingcar]

 

 

For AT vehicle, regardless of CVT, torque convertor or DSG,

to get high rpm, you just need to down shif.

But don't do it when you are already travelling at highspeed.

 

In fact if one is travelling down a hill. e.g Genting or MSCP,

We can always down shift to 3 or 2 to make use of engine braking.

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For AT vehicle, regardless of CVT, torque convertor or DSG,

to get high rpm, you just need to down shif.

But don't do it when you are already travelling at highspeed.

 

In fact if one is travelling down a hill. e.g Genting or MSCP,

We can always down shift to 3 or 2 to make use of engine braking.

 

Thanks for your guidance and sharing. [thumbsup]

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Neutral Newbie

I used to drive a Sunny (manual). Once in a while will travel on NSHW, during the first 20 min or so, car seems hard to accelerate, engine sounds rough and noisy. Hard to get pass 120 km/h, at this speed engine is roaring. Usually will take a rest after 20-30 min on NSHW after passing custom.

 

Then after the rest, can feel car is much more responsive, easy to rev. and engine is smooth and sounds quiet. Even passengers can feel it. At this moment, 140-160 km/h is easier to reach and quieter than 120 km/h previously.

 

correct correct same here felt the same... :-)

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Neutral Newbie

[laugh] What kind of theory is that? i-vtec won't have any "opening of vtec" and i-vtec is suppose to save fuel.

 

It could be things like incorrect tire pressure that cause the higher fc.

 

its not a bloody theory, its wat happened to my frds fit, and also this DVVT here...

 

i've driven B series v-tecs... and i dare say its the best NA engines ever made...

 

i have never wacked a i-vtec... only read that its nothing like last time...

 

more fuel consumption if you drive slower, is very possible if wrong gears are engaged all the time... [scholar]

 

 

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correct correct same here felt the same... :-)

 

Likely cause

1) engine warm up already

2) Carbon cleared already

3) tyre warm up already

3) Road condition changed

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Neutral Newbie

throttle responsive is due to your ECU used to the curve of driving high speed on NSHW...nothing to do with carbon

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hmm. i exercise my engine on the first day i collected my car, its a toyota axio..went to malaysia and floor the accelerator on the stretch of road towards gelang pahtah, quite a few car on the right side of the road but all siam when they saw my car coming [thumbsup] heard that japanese imported cars is limited to 180kmh, the reading of the speedo also ends at 180kmh. but the needle went over the 180kmh mark quite alot.. weird [shocked]

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hmm. i exercise my engine on the first day i collected my car, its a toyota axio..went to malaysia and floor the accelerator on the stretch of road towards gelang pahtah, quite a few car on the right side of the road but all siam when they saw my car coming [thumbsup] heard that japanese imported cars is limited to 180kmh, the reading of the speedo also ends at 180kmh. but the needle went over the 180kmh mark quite alot.. weird [shocked]

 

They siam becoz they're nice enough to give way to you.......unlike SG where most motorists are blinded by their ego......or simply they're too lazy to check their rear view mirror.

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Neutral Newbie

hmm. i exercise my engine on the first day i collected my car, its a toyota axio..went to malaysia and floor the accelerator on the stretch of road towards gelang pahtah, quite a few car on the right side of the road but all siam when they saw my car coming [thumbsup] heard that japanese imported cars is limited to 180kmh, the reading of the speedo also ends at 180kmh. but the needle went over the 180kmh mark quite alot.. weird [shocked]

 

most, if not all, JDMs are electronically limited to 180km/h...

 

JDM cars have been historically limited by a gentlemen's agreement among manufacturers to 280 horsepower (PS) (276 hp) and a top speed of 180 or 190 km/h, mostly due to safety concerns. The horsepower limit was lifted in 2004. However, the speed limit of 180 or 190 km/h remains in effect, depending on the make and model of vehicle. Many JDM sports cars have speedometers that only go up to 180 km/h, even though the car would be capable of much higher speeds if not for the built-in limiter. Some cars, such as the Nissan GT-R, detect via GPS whether the car is on a Japanese race track. If so, the speed limiter is disabled.

 

From Wikipedia

Edited by Elriond
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Hi,

 

 

 

I'm a student from Singapore Management University embarking on a project in course, Technology & World Change. My team is intending to build a device which will solve the tailgating issue in Singapore.

 

 

 

As we all know, tailgating is a major cause for most accidents. Our device works like this:

 

 

 

1. A sensor will be attached to the front of the vehicle to detect the distance between itself and the car in front.

 

 

 

2. Once the sensor detects tailgating, meaning a distance of less than 1metre between 2 cars, it will trigger an alarm to the driver. To notify him that he is tailgating the car in front.

 

 

 

The full mechanics and details of our device have yet to be finalized. However, we'd like to hear from you, your views and takes on our innovation.

 

 

 

We hope that you guys can give us feedback on our innovation!

 

 

Please revert to us at [email protected].

 

Thanks!!

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