Cooling spray for radiator

[Fresh]

flush your radiator, replace with water (distilled if possible) + water wetter.

[Tigershark1976]

TS hand/backside itchy only.

 

Cooling systems fail only when there is a fault in e system.

 

My 19 year old corona also never overheat.

 

 

okie lah, TS was brainwashed by WS... most of us gg thru that stage also... kena poison by snake oil, he is consider good alrd... for me, i dunno kena what spell... those accessory shop tell me magnet can improve FC also i gong gong believe and spent close to 100 for a pair of magnet

[Pisces69]

okie lah, TS was brainwashed by WS... most of us gg thru that stage also... kena poison by snake oil, he is consider good alrd... for me, i dunno kena what spell... those accessory shop tell me magnet can improve FC also i gong gong believe and spent close to 100 for a pair of magnet

 

 

When i young, kenna poison so many times n die so many times. Hahaha

 

Thats why i now warn kaki here not to b fooled by those ws who only want to squeeze yr $ out of yr pockets into theirs.

 

I now realise stock is best in most cases unless its something really good. Tried, tested n proven. But must also b reasonable priced.

 

Put this n that sometimes only make car hv more problems n no benefits.

 

Last time got teflon[PTFE] to add to engine oil. 1 application abt $30 bucks. I spoiled 1 new bike n 2 car engines b4 i realised it was responsible fr destroying my perfectly good engines.

 

Now i know better. All those additives r mostly crap. Some only steal yr $ but some cause so much damage, it wil cost u a bomb to undo e damage it has done.

 

Just get good quality oils n parts n service according to manufacturers handbook is best.Also get a good n honest mech. Those idiots/trainees can cause more damage than anything else.

 

Beware of dishonest ws/mechs. Ty wil cheat yr $ n laugh at u when u leave.

 

I went tru all these b4 n learnt my lesson well. Even now sometimes i still get cheated, but not so often. Just hv to b more careful of who i deal with. Crooks r all around so just try to do more research b4 i decide to try/buy anything.

 

With internet, its easier to check-up on especially new products which claim ''more power, better FC n smoother engine''. Most of e time if it sounds too good to b true, it usually is.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Moredhel]

Hi bros who advise me against snake oil by WS, appreciate your concern for a fellow driver.

 

However, I would like to reiterate my point.

 

 

Previously when stock, the radiator is enough to handle the heat transfer.

 

However, when I"m playing around with the A/F ratio and timing, this caused a larger heat build up

during longer trips. In fact, not even talking about running NSHW, simply Tuas to Tampines.

 

Basically, when I advance my timing, I get more response across the usable powerband. Along with

the modified IHE with the stock ECU, this has caused my engine temp to heat up faster. Hence, the

stock radiator cooling system is not enough.

 

So faced with this, I have 2 options.

 

1) Upgrade my fuel rail/injectors/pump to cool engine combustion temp. But defeats the purpose of advancing and adjust the A/F. Since it only produces more power which my engine block cannot take due to no P&P. Or unless I swap to a larger CC engine. Which is all big $$.

 

2) Upgrade my cooling system to take the extra heat over long distances. Which means either I uprate my radiator size, or install some sort of add on cooling system.

 

I already have ATF, so the only other add-on is an oil cooler which would also work, but I'm more of a D.I.Y. cheap option guy, so I'm looking at a simple mod to get the same effect without

other consequences(Oil Cooler is good, but when oil drain there is used oil trapped inside and the amount of oil used is more - not cost effective). So looking at water spray which is literally free

for use after initial installation and easily replaceable. No add ons and worries about leaking seals, gaskets and pressure ratings.

 

Generally the cost of the spray should cost not more than 100 everything included with quality parts and abit of D.i.y.

 

The cost of a decent oil cooler would be in the 200+ range, not to mention installation costs and other small inconveniences.

 

 

Hope this explains my intentions. Some may say my backside itchy. But let's just put it that instead of modding power like many drivers, I decided to mod FC without loss to power and driveability or even improve power and torque using the stock ECU and additional hardware. Tuning is costly and depends on the skill of the tuner. I rather put my trust in something I understand.

 

Anyway, for those who understand.

 

My inj is 2.8ms and my timing is 12 degrees during idle for a 1.6 NA with IHE.

 

U say need extra cooling anot?

[Moredhel]

okie lah, TS was brainwashed by WS... most of us gg thru that stage also... kena poison by snake oil, he is consider good alrd... for me, i dunno kena what spell... those accessory shop tell me magnet can improve FC also i gong gong believe and spent close to 100 for a pair of magnet

 

Lol bro, I done that a long time ago too.

 

Nowadays looking at what I understand to improve system.

 

All the miraculous 'systems', 'add-ons' koyok in the market never believe.

 

What air charger lah, air bleed lah, magnets lah, scalar lah, VS lah.....all crap.....

 

I must say they do work to some degree. But not even close to what they claim.

 

 

Like a bro mentioned, there's no replacement for displacement.

 

 

[Kklee]

Hi bros who advise me against snake oil by WS, appreciate your concern for a fellow driver.

 

However, I would like to reiterate my point.

 

 

Previously when stock, the radiator is enough to handle the heat transfer.

 

However, when I"m playing around with the A/F ratio and timing, this caused a larger heat build up

during longer trips. In fact, not even talking about running NSHW, simply Tuas to Tampines.

 

Basically, when I advance my timing, I get more response across the usable powerband. Along with

the modified IHE with the stock ECU, this has caused my engine temp to heat up faster. Hence, the

stock radiator cooling system is not enough.

 

So faced with this, I have 2 options.

 

1) Upgrade my fuel rail/injectors/pump to cool engine combustion temp. But defeats the purpose of advancing and adjust the A/F. Since it only produces more power which my engine block cannot take due to no P&P. Or unless I swap to a larger CC engine. Which is all big $$.

 

2) Upgrade my cooling system to take the extra heat over long distances. Which means either I uprate my radiator size, or install some sort of add on cooling system.

 

I already have ATF, so the only other add-on is an oil cooler which would also work, but I'm more of a D.I.Y. cheap option guy, so I'm looking at a simple mod to get the same effect without

other consequences(Oil Cooler is good, but when oil drain there is used oil trapped inside and the amount of oil used is more - not cost effective). So looking at water spray which is literally free

for use after initial installation and easily replaceable. No add ons and worries about leaking seals, gaskets and pressure ratings.

 

Generally the cost of the spray should cost not more than 100 everything included with quality parts and abit of D.i.y.

 

The cost of a decent oil cooler would be in the 200+ range, not to mention installation costs and other small inconveniences.

 

 

Hope this explains my intentions. Some may say my backside itchy. But let's just put it that instead of modding power like many drivers, I decided to mod FC without loss to power and driveability or even improve power and torque using the stock ECU and additional hardware. Tuning is costly and depends on the skill of the tuner. I rather put my trust in something I understand.

 

Anyway, for those who understand.

 

My inj is 2.8ms and my timing is 12 degrees during idle for a 1.6 NA with IHE.

 

U say need extra cooling anot?

 

So it can be assumed that your thermostat is always open and that the fan is always on cooling but that it is not sufficent.

Perhaps water spray might help but can find out what is the coolant temperature and engine oil temperature?

 

 

[Kklee]

As long as yr cooling system is working as it sud, u can b stuck in a jam at hot afternoon sun n yr temp gauge sud stay just beow e 1/2 mark, which is e normal temp.

 

If yr temp gauge shows much hotter than normal, there is something wrong with yr cooling system like fans/thermostat faulty or too little coolant or blockage at exterior fins r water channels clogged.

 

Either way u need to send to a good reliable ws to check.

 

I dont advise putting those snake-oil stuff. It is a waste of yr $.

 

Also u usually get overheating while stuck in a jam. If u r moving along at a reasonable speed, the moving air sud b able to cool e coolant in yr cooling system unless it is faulty.

 

There is no need to change yr stock radiator as it was designed for yr car.

 

Unfortunately, quite low on coolant and radiator top slight leaking, Optra temp gauge still shows normal. [laugh]

Edited October 9, 2010 by Kklee

[Mini-itx]

Hi bros who advise me against snake oil by WS, appreciate your concern for a fellow driver.

 

However, I would like to reiterate my point.

 

 

Previously when stock, the radiator is enough to handle the heat transfer.

 

However, when I"m playing around with the A/F ratio and timing, this caused a larger heat build up

during longer trips. In fact, not even talking about running NSHW, simply Tuas to Tampines.

 

Basically, when I advance my timing, I get more response across the usable powerband. Along with

the modified IHE with the stock ECU, this has caused my engine temp to heat up faster. Hence, the

stock radiator cooling system is not enough.

 

So faced with this, I have 2 options.

 

1) Upgrade my fuel rail/injectors/pump to cool engine combustion temp. But defeats the purpose of advancing and adjust the A/F. Since it only produces more power which my engine block cannot take due to no P&P. Or unless I swap to a larger CC engine. Which is all big $$.

 

2) Upgrade my cooling system to take the extra heat over long distances. Which means either I uprate my radiator size, or install some sort of add on cooling system.

 

I already have ATF, so the only other add-on is an oil cooler which would also work, but I'm more of a D.I.Y. cheap option guy, so I'm looking at a simple mod to get the same effect without

other consequences(Oil Cooler is good, but when oil drain there is used oil trapped inside and the amount of oil used is more - not cost effective). So looking at water spray which is literally free

for use after initial installation and easily replaceable. No add ons and worries about leaking seals, gaskets and pressure ratings.

 

Generally the cost of the spray should cost not more than 100 everything included with quality parts and abit of D.i.y.

 

The cost of a decent oil cooler would be in the 200+ range, not to mention installation costs and other small inconveniences.

 

 

Hope this explains my intentions. Some may say my backside itchy. But let's just put it that instead of modding power like many drivers, I decided to mod FC without loss to power and driveability or even improve power and torque using the stock ECU and additional hardware. Tuning is costly and depends on the skill of the tuner. I rather put my trust in something I understand.

 

Anyway, for those who understand.

 

My inj is 2.8ms and my timing is 12 degrees during idle for a 1.6 NA with IHE.

 

U say need extra cooling anot?

 

Hmm.... For your case, I am more worried about you killing the engine than than cooling problems...... If your engine is overheating then you may have been running too lean and too much timing already.

 

If you confirmed have everything sorted out nicely, then I strongly urge you to invest in oil cooler or run thicker oil instead. This is because water can't cool everything in your engine and whats getting the most pounding from your tuning is the piston.

[Know12]

good.

[Pisces69]

Unfortunately, quite low on coolant and radiator top slight leaking, Optra temp gauge still shows normal. [laugh]

 

 

Optra radiator dont hv cap in top. Only a cap on e resevoir. Its a sealed system.

 

If r cooling systen not ok, u better get it fixed. Overheating can cause all sorts of problems wh e engine which cud cost a bomb to repair.

 

Even when coolant almost gone, can still show normal temp. Its only when its dried up wil e gauge go into e red. If u keep moving n outside temp not too hot, e temp gauge wil still show normal.

 

Thats why i do a manual coolant check every week or two.I inspect hoses n whole cooling system every few years. If hoses bulging or cracked, i change. Cheaper than to wait till it burst.

 

 

 

[Pisces69]

Hi bros who advise me against snake oil by WS, appreciate your concern for a fellow driver.

 

However, I would like to reiterate my point.

 

 

Previously when stock, the radiator is enough to handle the heat transfer.

 

However, when I"m playing around with the A/F ratio and timing, this caused a larger heat build up

during longer trips. In fact, not even talking about running NSHW, simply Tuas to Tampines.

 

Basically, when I advance my timing, I get more response across the usable powerband. Along with

the modified IHE with the stock ECU, this has caused my engine temp to heat up faster. Hence, the

stock radiator cooling system is not enough.

 

So faced with this, I have 2 options.

 

1) Upgrade my fuel rail/injectors/pump to cool engine combustion temp. But defeats the purpose of advancing and adjust the A/F. Since it only produces more power which my engine block cannot take due to no P&P. Or unless I swap to a larger CC engine. Which is all big $$.

 

2) Upgrade my cooling system to take the extra heat over long distances. Which means either I uprate my radiator size, or install some sort of add on cooling system.

 

I already have ATF, so the only other add-on is an oil cooler which would also work, but I'm more of a D.I.Y. cheap option guy, so I'm looking at a simple mod to get the same effect without

other consequences(Oil Cooler is good, but when oil drain there is used oil trapped inside and the amount of oil used is more - not cost effective). So looking at water spray which is literally free

for use after initial installation and easily replaceable. No add ons and worries about leaking seals, gaskets and pressure ratings.

 

Generally the cost of the spray should cost not more than 100 everything included with quality parts and abit of D.i.y.

 

The cost of a decent oil cooler would be in the 200+ range, not to mention installation costs and other small inconveniences.

 

 

Hope this explains my intentions. Some may say my backside itchy. But let's just put it that instead of modding power like many drivers, I decided to mod FC without loss to power and driveability or even improve power and torque using the stock ECU and additional hardware. Tuning is costly and depends on the skill of the tuner. I rather put my trust in something I understand.

 

Anyway, for those who understand.

 

My inj is 2.8ms and my timing is 12 degrees during idle for a 1.6 NA with IHE.

 

U say need extra cooling anot?

 

 

I strongly do not agree yr method of trying to get more power by running lean n advancing timing too much.

 

But................if u insist on carrying on doing that in spite of risking serious damage to yr engine, i suggest u try a cooler plug 1st.

 

A cheap n simple way to lower temp in yr engine. Let me know if it workes. Good luck.

 

[Pisces69]

Lol bro, I done that a long time ago too.

 

Nowadays looking at what I understand to improve system.

 

All the miraculous 'systems', 'add-ons' koyok in the market never believe.

 

What air charger lah, air bleed lah, magnets lah, scalar lah, VS lah.....all crap.....

 

I must say they do work to some degree. But not even close to what they claim.

 

 

Like a bro mentioned, there's no replacement for displacement.

 

So since u do agree then why u still trying to out-do those automotive engineers who spent millions of $ desiging yr engine?

[Good-Carbuyer]

Dear Bros,

 

I understand that msot stock radiators are made to take the heat from both the EO and ATF/MTF and

I"ve been advised by several WS and experienced bros that this is actually not enough to handle the

cooling especially when you're driving long distance during a hot day.

 

Someone mentioned to be that it is possible to install water cooling sprays that some intercoolers use

for the stock radiator. Anyone knows where that can be done along with the relays and cabin controls?

 

I'm considering changing to an aluminium radiator but looking at other options.

 

Any bros can advise a newbie?

 

 

Thanks!

I believe most cars sold here compatible with our climate/weather. What happened? overheated engine? replace with radiator fan having more blades. Copper better heat conductor than aluminium?

 

[Yeobh]

I have hear of all this water spraying ideas since the early 80'. Some innovative chaps even try to redirect the air con evaporator water to a plastic tanks equipped with a small wiper washer motor. Frankly the small amount of water just cannot do the work.

The best you can do is make sure yr coolant has the right amount antifreeze. Replace yr exisiting radiator cap with one with higher pressure - e.g yr existing cap maybe 0.9kg/cm2 move up to 1.1kg/cm2. For every increase in 1psi there is a corresponding in crease in temp by 3deg F ( sorry I forgetten the actual metric readings).

If all these does not reduce the temp, the next alternative to take a look at the radiator and if necessary clean it up. If the problem still refuse to go away then put in another radiator fan

 

PS make sure the radiator cawing is in place Some time a small tool like this may help

Edited October 10, 2010 by Yeobh

[Mini-itx]

I have hear of all this water spraying ideas since the early 80'. Some innovative chaps even try to redirect the air con evaporator water to a plastic tanks equipped with a small wiper washer motor. Frankly the small amount of water just cannot do the work.

The best you can do is make sure yr coolant has the right amount antifreeze. Replace yr exisiting radiator cap with one with higher pressure - e.g yr existing cap maybe 0.9kg/cm2 move up to 1.1kg/cm2. For every increase in 1psi there is a corresponding in crease in temp by 3deg F ( sorry I forgetten the actual metric readings).

If all these does not reduce the temp, the next alternative to take a look at the radiator and if necessary clean it up. If the problem still refuse to go away then put in another radiator fan

 

PS make sure the radiator cawing is in place Some time a small tool like this may help

 

I think you meant radiator additive right? Cause antifreeze is not needed in SG.

[Yeobh]

anti-freeze has few functions - one is to prevent freezing of the cooling liquid during winter the other is to allow cooling liquid to boil at high temp. The last function is rust inhibitor, which helps to lubricate the water pump bearing and prevent rust formations,

Anti-freeze must be mixed in correct portion to water ( preferrably distilled water) . In our hot weather a 50 /50 mixture will be idea.

 

[Mini-itx]

anti-freeze has few functions - one is to prevent freezing of the cooling liquid during winter the other is to allow cooling liquid to boil at high temp. The last function is rust inhibitor, which helps to lubricate the water pump bearing and prevent rust formations,

Anti-freeze must be mixed in correct portion to water ( preferrably distilled water) . In our hot weather a 50 /50 mixture will be idea.

 

OIC, you are talking about those multi purpose ones. Not purely antifreeze. Cause it serves no purpose for our climate.

[Yeobh]

Google anti-freeze you will get more info. Basically they are glycol.