Changing clutch

[20G]

this i forgot..

mech told me before =/

 

than how u know ur car 320whp? ur mech told u dat too?

[JaydenSTI]

than how u know ur car 320whp? ur mech told u dat too?

 

 

aiyo, dun so picky on him la...... my clutch also dying, any suggestion for my ride????

[Mllcg]

than how u know ur car 320whp? ur mech told u dat too?

 

dyno run

[20G]

aiyo, dun so picky on him la...... my clutch also dying, any suggestion for my ride????

 

i curious ma. not picky on him la. funny he can rem his car is 320whp but forgot wat brand is the more impt part- turbo.

 

i heard os giken is good. carbonetics not bad but muz warm up. i tried hks la twin. very nice feel. pedal feel.softer than stock. replacement pad oso affordable.

watever u go for, pls do not try Exedy Organic. triple pui!!

 

[20G]

dyno run

 

im interested to know wat setup u hv. mind to share?

 

actually ur gc wif the current power is consider powerful coz gc has a lighter body then the later batches of wrx.

 

still my personal fav model after all these years. lol

[Mllcg]

im interested to know wat setup u hv. mind to share?

 

actually ur gc wif the current power is consider powerful coz gc has a lighter body then the later batches of wrx.

 

still my personal fav model after all these years. lol

 

stock

 

actually, i also dunno sia...

 

just know the specs

Edited November 29, 2012 by Mllcg

[Kurty]

Hello

 

Wanna ask, have been using the clutch for 10 years, clocking around 140k.

Every few years will change the gear oil.

 

For clutch, is there an indication/tell sign that I must change?

 

I notice my clutch is kinda harsh to compress.

Was told to replace my clutch with this brand, valeo.

Manual and auto clutch, are they the same?

Will clutch cause loss of power?

So far, I didn't experience any gear slipped.

 

Lastly, for those guys who are always on the road.

Does your knee or ankle hurts from long hours drive?

How do you prevent it? Is there such stuff as ergonomic pedal aid?

[Nzy]

Hello

 

Wanna ask, have been using the clutch for 10 years, clocking around 140k.

Every few years will change the gear oil.

 

For clutch, is there an indication/tell sign that I must change?

 

I notice my clutch is kinda harsh to compress.

Was told to replace my clutch with this brand, valeo.

Manual and auto clutch, are they the same?

Will clutch cause loss of power?

So far, I didn't experience any gear slipped.

 

Lastly, for those guys who are always on the road.

Does your knee or ankle hurts from long hours drive?

How do you prevent it? Is there such stuff as ergonomic pedal aid?

 

My mechanic told me that so long as the car can stall in first gear, the clutch is still good enough to use. Some mechanics even test using 2nd gear. Only if it cannot stall in 2nd gear then they say it is time to change.

[Bicolor]

Lastly, for those guys who are always on the road.

Does your knee or ankle hurts from long hours drive?

How do you prevent it? Is there such stuff as ergonomic pedal aid?

 

 

I'm always on the road, both in Singapore and Hong Kong, often in jams, and all my the cars I own, have owned or driven on a long term basis so far are/were manual. Knees and ankles don't hurt, usually my right leg gets tired from the throttle control first (whether I'm driving auto or manual).

 

Don't think there's any such thing as ergonomic pedal aid. Often you can ask the mechanic to adjust the clutch pedal travel. Pedal stiffness is more to do with the clutch pressure plate. You can change to a clutch with a light pedal feel, depending on what car you own. In my experience the Exedy OEM clutches (not the racing types) have a very light pedal feel. On both a Nissan Sunny and old Nissan March in my care, changing to this clutch reduced pedal stiffness by at least half - in fact, was more like 60% lighter on the Sunny.

 

The trick to not getting tired in traffic is quite simple - don't half clutch too much (not good for the clutch either, will cause it to wear faster). When moving off, bring up the revs to the ideal level (every car is different, you should know yours better), release the clutch in one smooth motion, not too fast or slow, pause at the biting point for just a second when you feel it catch then let go and accelerate off smoothly. In start-stop traffic jams, don't keep half-clutching and creeping forward if possible. That's the habit which will cause a sore left leg and puts most people off manual. Move off only when the front vehicle moves. Just be ready to clutch in, engage and go once the front vehicle moves, so you won't hold up traffic behind you. If the traffic is moving, albeit very slowly, simply keep the car in gear and control the speed with very light changes of pressure on the gas pedal. The trick is to keep the car moving and not come to a complete stop.

 

These few steps will make driving manual much more pleasant. It doesn't have to be any less tiring or less smooth than driving auto.

 

Note that everyone's impression, opinion and threshold/tolerance might be different. I am a far more die-hard fan of manual than most, so you might want to take my words with a pinch of salt. But still, try reducing the time spent at half clutch and creeping forward in start-stop traffic as much as possible, and you should notice a big improvement in leg fatigue.

Edited March 17, 2016 by Bicolor

[Kurty]

Thanks for sharing.

 

Recently my mechanic had remove the spring in my accelerator. Was told there's actually 2 spring in that area, bigger and smaller. He actually took the smaller one out to see if it helps.

 

I drives like 3 hours daily, I can't deny my knee and ankle hurts from my old hobby, soccer.

 

For my ride, only have 2 options of clutch - renault stock or valeo.

 

Stiffness of the clutch, is it a tell sign that the clutch must change? I thought manual clutch are pretty durable?

[Opel17]

Thanks for sharing.

 

Recently my mechanic had remove the spring in my accelerator. Was told there's actually 2 spring in that area, bigger and smaller. He actually took the smaller one out to see if it helps.

 

I drives like 3 hours daily, I can't deny my knee and ankle hurts from my old hobby, soccer.

 

For my ride, only have 2 options of clutch - renault stock or valeo.

 

Stiffness of the clutch, is it a tell sign that the clutch must change? I thought manual clutch are pretty durable?

I don't think stiffness of the clutch is an indication of failure. Clutch rely on friction lining to transfer engine power to the wheels (via the gearbox). If the friction lining had worn out over time, acceleration would be very sluggish due to slippage at the clutch. At the final moments, even moving off from 1st gear would be difficult.

A worn out clutch would also result in increased fuel consumption. So I monitor the fuel consumption as an early warning sign of clutch failure (and other possible failures).

[Opel17]

Thanks for sharing.

 

Recently my mechanic had remove the spring in my accelerator. Was told there's actually 2 spring in that area, bigger and smaller. He actually took the smaller one out to see if it helps.

 

I drives like 3 hours daily, I can't deny my knee and ankle hurts from my old hobby, soccer.

 

For my ride, only have 2 options of clutch - renault stock or valeo.

 

Stiffness of the clutch, is it a tell sign that the clutch must change? I thought manual clutch are pretty durable?

I personally would not like to tamper with Factory settings in such case.

The 2 springs are there to counteract against the right foot, so that the driver can exert control of the engine acceleration.

Let imagine the extreme case, remove the 2 springs, any slight movement of the right foot would cause the engine to rev and the car would surge  forward.

[Kurty]

I personally would not like to tamper with Factory settings in such case.

The 2 springs are there to counteract against the right foot, so that the driver can exert control of the engine acceleration.

Let imagine the extreme case, remove the 2 springs, any slight movement of the right foot would cause the engine to rev and the car would surge forward.

I agrees, easy to accelerate but still hurts. Most of the time, I would rest my feet on the side while stepping on the gad

[Watwheels]

The stiffness of the clutch is due to the pressure plate, master cylinder and dunno what. They are all linked. Stiff is better dan loose. There's no way to adjust the pressure. One way to relief from your ankle and knee fatigue is to try using your heel instead of the ball of your foot.

[Opel17]

I agrees, easy to accelerate but still hurts. Most of the time, I would rest my feet on the side while stepping on the gad

I meant to say "do not tamper with the Factory settings", do not remove the springs.

Btw, what type of footwear are you wearing when driving ?

Knee and ankle discomfort may be due to seat height. Try sitting higher and see whether any difference.

[Opel17]

Just Google and found some interesting info about knee pain during driving....

http://www.drbillsclinic.com/driving_tip.html

[Tigershark1976]

Hello

 

Wanna ask, have been using the clutch for 10 years, clocking around 140k.

Every few years will change the gear oil.

 

For clutch, is there an indication/tell sign that I must change?

 

I notice my clutch is kinda harsh to compress.

Was told to replace my clutch with this brand, valeo.

Manual and auto clutch, are they the same?

Will clutch cause loss of power?

So far, I didn't experience any gear slipped.

 

Lastly, for those guys who are always on the road.

Does your knee or ankle hurts from long hours drive?

How do you prevent it? Is there such stuff as ergonomic pedal aid?

 

Millage is not the sole indicator of clutch wear and tear, its more on your driving style. Seing many friend driving vios, changed their clutch at 60K to 100K and  I decided to replaced mine at aroud 200K. It was on the 7th year cause I thought it couldnt last till end of 10 yrs cycle. My mechanic told me that my clutch is perfectly alright and I shouldnt change it but I insist. Upon removing the clutch, I regreted... my clutch was only hlf worn, I can drive easily another 150K with it)...

 

From my undestanding, clutch worn the most during half clutch, follow by hard launching/ change gear at very high RPM. Traffic jam doesnt contribute to severe wear and tear if you properly engage/ disengage your clutch.

 

How to know when your clutch is due for replacement? There are 2 ways... method 1- When you hard launch (change gear 1, 2 , 3 at +-6K rpm), you could feel that your clutch slips.... this is the symtom where your clutch is not as strong as it should be. However, its still usable for normal drive for quite some time.

 

method 2- trying to stall your engine. If your engine doesnt stall at gear 1 (pull handbrake>engage gear 1, release clutch  and gas pedal), it means your clucth is badly worn.. you need to quickly replace your clutch before you need a toll truck.

Edited March 18, 2016 by Tigershark1976

[Kurty]

I meant to say "do not tamper with the Factory settings", do not remove the springs.

Btw, what type of footwear are you wearing when driving ?

Knee and ankle discomfort may be due to seat height. Try sitting higher and see whether any difference.

From court shoe to sandal, I have all except slipper. . Basically covered she.

 

I don't sit very far from the pedal, I read should have a 90 degree.

 

Nothing much I can do for the seat, only can adjust 45 degree if you get me.

Front portion slightly raise while the rear, remains.