2015 Forester 2.0

[Rachdanom]

Why not change at outside workshops?

 

I just got my 225/55R18 Alenza at $200 per pc, including labour and balancing a few months ago from an authorised Bridgestone dealer. And that’s not the cheapest as I’ve heard some people got it for less than $200 from other shops

 

Just switch back to stock rear ARB and try. If you didn’t keep your stock ARB, can try looking for one at BKS and BMS which should have spares.

 

Can you PM me the contact?  I didnt do research and didn't mean to change tires actually.  Went in for the realignment under my service package so one shot change tire and realign,  Thanks

[Jamesgetz]

Can you PM me the contact? I didnt do research and didn't mean to change tires actually. Went in for the realignment under my service package so one shot change tire and realign, Thanks

South east tyre at kaki bukit. Hearsay Leong seng even cheaper so you can compare prices

 

the alenza is a pretty decent tyre. Comparable to primacy 3 ST in terms of dry/wet grip. Not as quiet and comfy but substantially cheaper. The sidewalls are quite stiff so don’t pump too high pressure

Edited May 28, 2019 by Jamesgetz

[everbb910]

Can't answer 1 as I took up the MI offered AIG plan and continued as it gave me the best quote for renewal. Even the insurance broker I looked for was surprised.

 

2 - on paper they cannot void the warranty if you service outside. But you gotta ensure that it is according to their standards/checklist. I've heard of ppl who service outside successfully claim warranty and also got ppl make noise say MI give problem.

 

Thanks bro Zpliu for your reply. So I assume your continued AIG plan still comes with preferred workshop option right

[Zpliu]

Thanks bro Zpliu for your reply. So I assume your continued AIG plan still comes with preferred workshop option right

Actually no. It's just that Motor Image is in the approved workshop list. If really need to self claim, just go back to Motor Image.

 

If third party claim, doesn't really matter especially if cosmetic damage only. If big damage, better to go back so that MI can't make noise about inappropriate repairs and end up voiding warranty.

 

Oh and regarding servicing outside, please keep records of all items and checks performed.

Edited May 29, 2019 by Zpliu

[everbb910]

Actually no. It's just that Motor Image is in the approved workshop list. If really need to self claim, just go back to Motor Image.

 

If third party claim, doesn't really matter especially if cosmetic damage only. If big damage, better to go back so that MI can't make noise about inappropriate repairs and end up voiding warranty.

 

Oh and regarding servicing outside, please keep records of all items and checks performed.

Thanks bro!

[Alfie07]

Thought I should share on 2 recent things i did on my FXT.

 

Bought big and small Powerflex polyurethane bushings for front control arm and done alignment. Instantly felt steering was tighter and better feel during turning. Hoped they last way longer than the crappy stock ones that were cracked when i changed them. Costed me $200 to buy + ship from eBay UK.

 

I also did the Neuto dry hydrogen valve decarbonising. The before and after decarbonisation report showed marked improvement to the engine operating parameters like A/F Ratio and CO2 levels. On the road, it feels like the engine has recovered its lost power due to carbonisation as it now pulls strongly even at low rpm using I-mode. Fuel consumption shld improve too. Costed $138 and done within an hour which i think wkshops like BMS and RaceTech are offering for this service. IMO quite a worthwhile "mod" to do.

 

Jus sharing :)

 

Hi Orixy, is it advisable to do Neuto dry hydrogen valve decarbonising, when my car is less than 1 year old?

[Orixy]

Hi Orixy, is it advisable to do Neuto dry hydrogen valve decarbonising, when my car is less than 1 year old?

Hi Alfie, less than a year refers to 1 month or 11 months? If its the latter, than i would say no harm doing a first round of valve cleaning instead of letting the carbon buildup at later stage. You'll also get a before and after report which will also let you know the state of the carbon buildup at say 1yr. Maybe can share your report here for knowledge sharing.

[Rainman]

Anyone manage to remove the rear seats? Any advice? Can’t seemed to find any latch at the back of the rear seat....

[richard_crl032]

Anyone manage to remove the rear seats? Any advice? Canât seemed to find any latch at the back of the rear seat....

Hey Rainman,

 

Presume you meant rear bottom butt rest and not back rest.

 

2 usual latches in front area but yes, the other 2 rear latches are a bit tricky cos not positively clicked but they are there.

 

Pls make sure front catches are pushed back before yanking but they are tough and no concern of breaking .. even my installers had trouble cos of ICE cabling.

 

Good luck and cheers.

 

Richard

Edited June 5, 2019 by richard_crl032

[richard_crl032]

Hi Bros,

 

Finally got my spare cover leather wrapped to match kenstyle double D leather steering with nice kenstyle lengthen paddle shift .. as nice as expected. Adopters need to aware insurance claim complication if investigated.

 

Also managed to find good condition used front sti stiffner at good price and surprised that steering feel improved especailly at turns .. lelong my new one about 1 yr ago without fitting cos din make sense to have only right driver rod due to exhaust on passenger side but got bored and glad did it.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited June 5, 2019 by richard_crl032

[richard_crl032]

i am very sure that the slow speed rocking feeling is attributed by the 24mm arb. i will find an opportunity to swapped back my 16mm arb.

 

I think you mean the rocking on uneven roads when you were on 24mm arb which makes the car chassis too rigid like what is happening to my car. When your spring rate is soft it causes your car to bounce on uneven road. With my Tein spring rate i think the "bouncing" improved a lot but the rocking according to uneven roads increased because i increased my damping.

 

Today i tested to reduce my tyre pressure to 220KPa(show 2.2bar on TPMS) from 2.6bar(set by LS Tyre). My passenger immediately told me the road feeling/vibration reduced a lot.

 

May i know if running on 220KPA/2.2bar is good for our forester? i am on 235/50/18 Michelin Primacy 3 St tyres.

 

Hi Fumio,

 

Guess subjective to each what is this "slow speed rocking" but I did remove the thicker and solid cusco rear arb and went to thinner and hollow sti wrx arb.

 

I can only describe the effect as less harsh i.e. the thum thum impact is less pronounce.

 

You have to try to know and it is not expensive to swap back to already available stock or even back to 24mm arb again.

 

220kpa especially at station when hot is too low ... 240kpa when hot or 230-235kpa would probably be better for your tyres.

 

End of the day, there are trade offs and I find that have stiffer pink spring with cusco touring A does not mean adjusting the latter softer to match to spring .. it can be more stable if dampers are adjusted stiffer in fact to "match" the stiffer springs but it get more harsh and abrupt when road condition deteriorates.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[Rainman]

Hey Rainman,

 

Presume you meant rear bottom butt rest and not back rest.

 

2 usual latches in front area but yes, the other 2 rear latches are a bit tricky cos not positively clicked but they are there.

 

Pls make sure front catches are pushed back before yanking but they are tough and no concern of breaking .. even my installers had trouble cos of ICE cabling.

 

Good luck and cheers.

 

Richard

Yes the butt rest... still can not locate where are the 2 rear latches zzzz

[Jamesgetz]

Yes the butt rest... still can not locate where are the 2 rear latches zzzz

Try searching for YouTube videos. I recall watching some DIY videos which helped me greatly when I removed the rear seats for DIY soundproofing. If you can’t find videos for SJ forester, can still refer to older gen Forester or even other Subaru models which have similar rear seat designs

 

I recall you have to push hard the seats in 1 direction so as to unhook it from the body chassis. You can’t see the hooks as they on the underside of the seat cushion. Actually, I recall removing the seats was much easier than hooking it back becos it’s hard to gauge where the hooks are...

 

Best of luck with your DIY!

Edited June 5, 2019 by Jamesgetz

[richard_crl032]

Yes the butt rest... still can not locate where are the 2 rear latches zzzz

Hey Rainman,

 

Sorry to hear but I try not to remove to check cos I had mentioned issue with even installers putting it back securely due to aftermkt cabling.

 

The front 2 ones are obvious as you dig hard into bottom front .. just ensure screwdriver to push white plastic clips on the floor pan to release the metal hooks on the rear seat itself.

 

The 2 rear ones should be from top to middle portion and you have to rotate the seat with its front raised to catch some metal protrusion raised just below the back seat as catches to assembled back .. sorry if not clear and I also only vaguely remembers this.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[Rainman]

Try searching for YouTube videos. I recall watching some DIY videos which helped me greatly when I removed the rear seats for DIY soundproofing. If you canât find videos for SJ forester, can still refer to older gen Forester or even other Subaru models which have similar rear seat designs

 

I recall you have to push hard the seats in 1 direction so as to unhook it from the body chassis. You canât see the hooks as they on the underside of the seat cushion. Actually, I recall removing the seats was much easier than hooking it back becos itâs hard to gauge where the hooks are...

 

Best of luck with your DIY!

Hi James thanks for the good advice! Managed to find some good illustration pictures. Had a rough idea on where to reach for the rear latches. Yah have some left over SP material and plan to stick it there rather than putting them back to store room.

Hey Rainman,

 

Sorry to hear but I try not to remove to check cos I had mentioned issue with even installers putting it back securely due to aftermkt cabling.

 

The front 2 ones are obvious as you dig hard into bottom front .. just ensure screwdriver to push white plastic clips on the floor pan to release the metal hooks on the rear seat itself.

 

The 2 rear ones should be from top to middle portion and you have to rotate the seat with its front raised to catch some metal protrusion raised just below the back seat as catches to assembled back .. sorry if not clear and I also only vaguely remembers this.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Hi Richard thanks will try to reach for the latches... once I had the feel on where is it I can gauge if it is worth the trouble to take it out....

 

No hurry to do it though.... sometimes just too free and had nothing to do lol

[Rainman]

Anyone had experience on those TPMS? Looking for the external type probably solar powered. Is it accurate enough?

[Doggyfoo]

Hi Bros,

 

Finally got my spare cover leather wrapped to match kenstyle double D leather steering with nice kenstyle lengthen paddle shift .. as nice as expected. Adopters need to aware insurance claim complication if investigated.

 

Also managed to find good condition used front sti stiffner at good price and surprised that steering feel improved especailly at turns .. lelong my new one about 1 yr ago without fitting cos din make sense to have only right driver rod due to exhaust on passenger side but got bored and glad did it.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

This is the front stiffener..if u install the rear as well, there is even noticeable differences in handling..however, u will need to remove bottom 2 plates which lead to more noise and worst fc (I attributed it to airflow disturbance after the removal. Installed back the cover without the rear stiffener, I got 0.7l more /100km)

[richard_crl032]

This is the front stiffener..if u install the rear as well, there is even noticeable differences in handling..however, u will need to remove bottom 2 plates which lead to more noise and worst fc (I attributed it to airflow disturbance after the removal. Installed back the cover without the rear stiffener, I got 0.7l more /100km)

Hi Foo,

 

Affirmative .. only front stiffner and I look forward to reportedly higher compliant ride with the rear flexible stiffener pair of ST20168SF000 and not on handling. You did not find this led to better compliance ride ??

 

Our stock fxt din not even come with the long 4 ft undercarriage cover pair shown in the photo that I added and wonder why higher FC or noise with just removal of the covers. I managed to understand where are these bottom platrs with below photo of thrm from my ride .... many thanks for sharing on this good info to me.

 

For bros' understanding, stock oreli have the rear stiffeners but these flexible ones are originally for sti or forester ts (pre FL versions a, b and c) and not later FL versions d and e but works similarly.

 

The million dollars question from me is do you have them for sale still after removal as I would really like to try them but hard to get used ones ecen from Japan since I am not too concerned with fc and my soundproofing may help alleviate any noise increase as well ad there may be ways to mod the 2 bottom plates ... pls pm me accordingly.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited June 9, 2019 by richard_crl032