2015 Forester 2.0

[Bplakad]

Hi Richard. I think I will go to bks.

 

Whiterex, I did not go to bms to check on this problem but I just want to try another workshop.

[Chucky2007]

My forester has this ticking noise coming from the engine and MI told me that it is the noise from the CVT. Anyone else has this issue ?

Tickling sound from engine could be crankshaft or piston. Since MI keep saying it’s normal, maybe you wanna send to BMS or BKS seek second opinions

My coming 3 year old 84k fxt doesn’t have ticking sound from engine or cvt at all.. fyi

[OnceInALifeTime]

Tickling sound from engine could be crankshaft or piston. Since MI keep saying it’s normal, maybe you wanna send to BMS or BKS seek second opinions

My coming 3 year old 84k fxt doesn’t have ticking sound from engine or cvt at all.. fyi

 

Just to chip in... Could be intake and exhaust valve opening/closing sound too...

 

[Bplakad]

Thanks to all. Seems like the ticking sound is not normal but the workshop supervisors both at Leng Kee and Toa Payoh were so cocksure that it is. I had this noise since a year ago. Will certainly get another opinion.

[titaniclexus]

http://jp-carparts.com/subaru/partlist.php?maker=subaru&car_baseid=F33000&type=S13&cartype=012&fig_id=263

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2018_Forester-Base-Premium-25L-CVT/PAD-KIT-REAR-DISK-BRAKE/49236046/26696FJ000.html

https://ebcbrakes.com/Assets/ecatalogues/2016_USA_Automotive_Catalogue/USA_Automotive_Catalogue_2016.html#p=710

 

You can based on the 2.5 Forester (N.A.)

 

Hi KC, got this information shared by someone who checked with EBC Technical Advisor;

 

++++

 

Front (if 294mm discs fitted) - DP41884R

Rear (if 274mm solid discs fitted) - DP41584R

 

Front (if 316mm discs fitted) - DP41583R

Rear (if 278mm vented discs fitted) - DP41758R

 

++++

 

As mentioned earlier one FXT bro who bought his EBC yellow stuff pad set model below:

 

Front - EBC Yellow DP41583R

Rear - EBC Yellow DP41758R

 

One FNA bro managed to measure the front discs which is 294mm, then the yellowstuff for front shld go for is DP41884R, but the rear one he not able to take the measurement..... any idea?

 

Btw, what is solid discs and vented discs mentioned by EBC Technical Advisor?

Edited July 2, 2018 by titaniclexus

[OnceInALifeTime]

Hi KC, got this information shared by someone who checked with EBC Technical Advisor;

 

++++

 

Front (if 294mm discs fitted) - DP41884R

Rear (if 274mm solid discs fitted) - DP41584R

 

Front (if 316mm discs fitted) - DP41583R

Rear (if 278mm vented discs fitted) - DP41758R

 

++++

 

As mentioned earlier one FXT bro who bought his EBC yellow stuff pad set model below:

 

Front - EBC Yellow DP41583R

Rear - EBC Yellow DP41758R

 

One FNA bro managed to measure the front discs which is 294mm, then the yellowstuff for front shld go for is DP41884R, but the rear one he not able to take the measurement..... any idea?

 

Btw, what is solid discs and vented discs mentioned by EBC Technical Advisor?

Hi.

 

Following is for your reference.

 

https://www.blauparts.com/vw/vw_brake_parts/vw_brake_rotors/how_to_measure_vw_brake_rotor_disc_size.shtml

[Orixy]

Hi KC, got this information shared by someone who checked with EBC Technical Advisor;

 

++++

 

Front (if 294mm discs fitted) - DP41884R

Rear (if 274mm solid discs fitted) - DP41584R

 

Front (if 316mm discs fitted) - DP41583R

Rear (if 278mm vented discs fitted) - DP41758R

 

++++

 

As mentioned earlier one FXT bro who bought his EBC yellow stuff pad set model below:

 

Front - EBC Yellow DP41583R

Rear - EBC Yellow DP41758R

 

One FNA bro managed to measure the front discs which is 294mm, then the yellowstuff for front shld go for is DP41884R, but the rear one he not able to take the measurement..... any idea?

 

Btw, what is solid discs and vented discs mentioned by EBC Technical Advisor?

Great sharing! Thanks

 

The stock FXT front rotors are 316mm cos i changed mine recently. Rear I'm not too sure.

[OnceInALifeTime]

Hi KC, got this information shared by someone who checked with EBC Technical Advisor;

 

++++

 

Front (if 294mm discs fitted) - DP41884R

Rear (if 274mm solid discs fitted) - DP41584R

 

Front (if 316mm discs fitted) - DP41583R

Rear (if 278mm vented discs fitted) - DP41758R

 

++++

 

As mentioned earlier one FXT bro who bought his EBC yellow stuff pad set model below:

 

Front - EBC Yellow DP41583R

Rear - EBC Yellow DP41758R

 

One FNA bro managed to measure the front discs which is 294mm, then the yellowstuff for front shld go for is DP41884R, but the rear one he not able to take the measurement..... any idea?

 

Btw, what is solid discs and vented discs mentioned by EBC Technical Advisor?

Hi.

 

More information if you still require:

 

From:

 

https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/forester_sj/brake/ST26296SF000/

 

* For non-turbo vehicles, ST26296ST000 is compatible with the front 16-inch disc, and ST26296ST010 with the rear 15-inch disc.

 

From:

 

https://www.bremboparts.com/asiapacific/en/catalogue/subaru-forester-sj-2-0-i-awd/000058700-1

 

https://www.bremboparts.com/asiapacific/en/catalogue/subaru-forester-sj-2-5-awd-sj9/000120784-1

 

You will realised that the 2.0 NA and 2.5 NA are using the same brakes and pads for rear.

 

 

 

[titaniclexus]

Great sharing! Thanks

 

The stock FXT front rotors are 316mm cos i changed mine recently. Rear I'm not too sure.

 

Bro Yeowww who has installed his XT with yellow stuff earlier for DP41583R for front and DP41758R for rear, so the XT size for rear is 278mm for sure. Juz tat no one able to measure the rear for FNA size....  

[titaniclexus]

Hi.

 

More information if you still require:

 

From:

 

https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/forester_sj/brake/ST26296SF000/

 

* For non-turbo vehicles, ST26296ST000 is compatible with the front 16-inch disc, and ST26296ST010 with the rear 15-inch disc.

 

From:

 

https://www.bremboparts.com/asiapacific/en/catalogue/subaru-forester-sj-2-0-i-awd/000058700-1

 

https://www.bremboparts.com/asiapacific/en/catalogue/subaru-forester-sj-2-5-awd-sj9/000120784-1

 

You will realised that the 2.0 NA and 2.5 NA are using the same brakes and pads for rear.

 

Thanks KC, for the front discs FNA is quite sure that is abt 294mm since got bro did the actual measurement, only the rear he can't reach out. Reference to the STI website info, believe FNA size should be 274mm solid discs fitted smaller than XT. As mentioned and recommended by the Technical Advisor, one of the FNA bro is going to test it out front DP41884R and rear DP41584R. Shall wait for his comments after installation.

 

 

 

[2016fxt]

Saw a lot of discussions on fuel consumption (FC) for the Forester (XT and NA); some are informative, but some are not, eg does it make sense to say ‘my full tank can travel 450km’ without stating the average driving pattern for that full tank, and the amount of petrol pumped for that full tank? The amount of petrol pumped for every full tank varies (some people pump upon fuel indicator light up, some travel additional 20-30km before going to the petrol kiosk), and driving pattern varies for different people (eg aggressive driving style vs ‘uncle’ driving style), and at different time of the year (eg school holidays vs normal days). Generally, the more you travel on a highway with no stoppages, the more efficient the FC. Eg 50% city 50% hway means on a 30minute journey, 15min on the road with traffic lights and start-stop conditions, and 15min on the highway travelling 80-90km/h without stoppage time. Compare this to say a 30% city 70% hway drive pattern where more time is spent on the highway, the 50-50 pattern will consume more petrol. Other factors that affect FC include

 

Idling time - Do you spend a lot of waiting time in the car with the engine idling? Eg during morning cold start. For a 2000cc engine, 20minutes of idling at 600rpm could consume about 1 litre of petrol. If you need to idle for 20seconds or longer, it is better to switch off the engine as the engine ignition does not consume more petrol than 20 seconds of idling. This is the concept behind the engine start-stop feature for some cars; anyway it is against NEA regulation to leave a car idling for reasons other than traffic condition. For me, I only idle the car during morning cold start for about 20seconds, and move off slowly below 2000rpm before the blue temperature indicator goes off. After temperature goes up to 40deg C, the blue indicator will turn off and can drive the car as normal;

 

Also equally important is the tyre pressure, recommended for Forester is 230KPa for all 4 tyres, or 240KPa for front and 230KPa for rear. Personally I prefer the latter. Tyre pressure lower than 230KPa will decrease the FC, probably by as much as 5%. Recommended to check and pump tyres once a month;

 

Quality of engine oil used (some reported that Shell Helix Ultra 5w-30 feels sluggish, whereas motul 300v 5w-40, though higher viscosity, gives better FC and performance for the Forester XT turbo engine) – so it is not just about the viscosity , good quality EO (more expensive as well) could actually improve FC and engine performance, probably by about 3 to 5%

 

Ron98 vs Ron95 – it is reported that 98 gives slightly better fuel efficiency than the minimal requirement 95 (some reported that 95, though usable, gives lower horsepower – dyno testing was done to support this; and also increased engine knocking – meaning lower engine efficiency

 

Number of people travelling in the car – for obvious reason, full capacity 5pax will consume more petrol than if you routinely travel alone.

 

Aggressive driving habits – do you often ‘rush to wait’ and ‘wait to rush’? Flooring the pedal from stop (>3500 rpm), and hard braking to stop are driving habits that consume more petrol. I do that once in a while, for the fun of experiencing the turbo kicking in, but at the expense of wasting petrol. Most of the time I try to move off gradually from stop at around 2500rpm or less, anticipate traffic condition and use engine brake and intermittent braking more often than hard braking;

 

Switching to a higher gear saves more petrol than dragging the car at a low gear. Motor Image workshop recommended S mode over I mode for both city and highway driving, and recommend I mode only in traffic jam or very heavy traffic; probably because the S mode engages the CVT to gear shift faster than the I mode. So although S mode drives at around 300-400rpm higher than the I mode, it is considered to be more efficient for a heavy vehicle like Forester. Personally I prefer the S mode, especially during city driving

 

The Forester (both XT and NA model) has a 60-litre tank, each bar on the fuel gauge is 4 liter. There is a total of 12 bar, and a reserve of 9litre from fuel indicator light up to empty. That leaves 3 litre [60 – (12x4) – 9 = 3] from the first bar to ‘Full’. You can monitor your FC using the bars in the fuel gauge

 

I am driving a stock 2016-FL FXT, pump shell98 and currently on Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 EO, my next 10k servicing is due end of this month (last servicing done 6 months ago in Jan 2018). My routine travel pattern is consistently 70city 30hway – ie for a typical mon to fri working day 35min journey during peak hour = 25 minute city driving with usual traffic light start stop (70%), and 10 min on the highway without stoppage (30%); my FC is about 8.5 to 8.6km/l base on real life manual calculation, although the meter reads average ~10.8litre/100km = 9.3km/h. The meter is about 8-10% inflated. If you need to rely on the meter reading, I would suggest you multiply the meter reading (after converting to km/l) by 0.9 to get a rough estimation of real life FC. The reason for the inflated meter reading could be the factory calibration was based on lab-test conditions that may not be realistic for real life driving, eg low friction tyres pumped to an excessively high KPa, testing done on a very low friction test road, best quality engine oil/air filter/best fuel/lowest load (pump less than quarter tank, removed spare tyre, etc)/zero wind resistance/etc etc

 

That is why I do not rely on the meter readings; I monitor FC via manual calculation. At the next servicing, I will go for the motul 300v 5w-40, and replace a new air filter as well. Hopefully this could add an additional 0.5km/l to my current FC to achieve >9km/l, based on the same Shell98 and driving pattern 70city30hway. For a 1680kg SUV with turbo engine 240hp 350Nm and drive pattern 70city30hway, 9km/l is very respectable

[OnceInALifeTime]

Thanks KC, for the front discs FNA is quite sure that is abt 294mm since got bro did the actual measurement, only the rear he can't reach out. Reference to the STI website info, believe FNA size should be 274mm solid discs fitted smaller than XT. As mentioned and recommended by the Technical Advisor, one of the FNA bro is going to test it out front DP41884R and rear DP41584R. Shall wait for his comments after installation.

Great!

 

Do kindly share the findings later. :)

 

[OnceInALifeTime]

Saw a lot of discussions on fuel consumption (FC) for the Forester (XT and NA); some are informative, but some are not, eg does it make sense to say ‘my full tank can travel 450km’ without stating the average driving pattern for that full tank, and the amount of petrol pumped for that full tank? The amount of petrol pumped for every full tank varies (some people pump upon fuel indicator light up, some travel additional 20-30km before going to the petrol kiosk), and driving pattern varies for different people (eg aggressive driving style vs ‘uncle’ driving style), and at different time of the year (eg school holidays vs normal days). Generally, the more you travel on a highway with no stoppages, the more efficient the FC. Eg 50% city 50% hway means on a 30minute journey, 15min on the road with traffic lights and start-stop conditions, and 15min on the highway travelling 80-90km/h without stoppage time. Compare this to say a 30% city 70% hway drive pattern where more time is spent on the highway, the 50-50 pattern will consume more petrol. Other factors that affect FC include

 

Idling time - Do you spend a lot of waiting time in the car with the engine idling? Eg during morning cold start. For a 2000cc engine, 20minutes of idling at 600rpm could consume about 1 litre of petrol. If you need to idle for 20seconds or longer, it is better to switch off the engine as the engine ignition does not consume more petrol than 20 seconds of idling. This is the concept behind the engine start-stop feature for some cars; anyway it is against NEA regulation to leave a car idling for reasons other than traffic condition. For me, I only idle the car during morning cold start for about 20seconds, and move off slowly below 2000rpm before the blue temperature indicator goes off. After temperature goes up to 40deg C, the blue indicator will turn off and can drive the car as normal;

 

Also equally important is the tyre pressure, recommended for Forester is 230KPa for all 4 tyres, or 240KPa for front and 230KPa for rear. Personally I prefer the latter. Tyre pressure lower than 230KPa will decrease the FC, probably by as much as 5%. Recommended to check and pump tyres once a month;

 

Quality of engine oil used (some reported that Shell Helix Ultra 5w-30 feels sluggish, whereas motul 300v 5w-40, though higher viscosity, gives better FC and performance for the Forester XT turbo engine) – so it is not just about the viscosity , good quality EO (more expensive as well) could actually improve FC and engine performance, probably by about 3 to 5%

 

Ron98 vs Ron95 – it is reported that 98 gives slightly better fuel efficiency than the minimal requirement 95 (some reported that 95, though usable, gives lower horsepower – dyno testing was done to support this; and also increased engine knocking – meaning lower engine efficiency

 

Number of people travelling in the car – for obvious reason, full capacity 5pax will consume more petrol than if you routinely travel alone.

 

Aggressive driving habits – do you often ‘rush to wait’ and ‘wait to rush’? Flooring the pedal from stop (>3500 rpm), and hard braking to stop are driving habits that consume more petrol. I do that once in a while, for the fun of experiencing the turbo kicking in, but at the expense of wasting petrol. Most of the time I try to move off gradually from stop at around 2500rpm or less, anticipate traffic condition and use engine brake and intermittent braking more often than hard braking;

 

Switching to a higher gear saves more petrol than dragging the car at a low gear. Motor Image workshop recommended S mode over I mode for both city and highway driving, and recommend I mode only in traffic jam or very heavy traffic; probably because the S mode engages the CVT to gear shift faster than the I mode. So although S mode drives at around 300-400rpm higher than the I mode, it is considered to be more efficient for a heavy vehicle like Forester. Personally I prefer the S mode, especially during city driving

 

The Forester (both XT and NA model) has a 60-litre tank, each bar on the fuel gauge is 4 liter. There is a total of 12 bar, and a reserve of 9litre from fuel indicator light up to empty. That leaves 3 litre [60 – (12x4) – 9 = 3] from the first bar to ‘Full’. You can monitor your FC using the bars in the fuel gauge

 

I am driving a stock 2016-FL FXT, pump shell98 and currently on Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 EO, my next 10k servicing is due end of this month (last servicing done 6 months ago in Jan 2018). My routine travel pattern is consistently 70city 30hway – ie for a typical mon to fri working day 35min journey during peak hour = 25 minute city driving with usual traffic light start stop (70%), and 10 min on the highway without stoppage (30%); my FC is about 8.5 to 8.6km/l base on real life manual calculation, although the meter reads average ~10.8litre/100km = 9.3km/h. The meter is about 8-10% inflated. If you need to rely on the meter reading, I would suggest you multiply the meter reading (after converting to km/l) by 0.9 to get a rough estimation of real life FC. The reason for the inflated meter reading could be the factory calibration was based on lab-test conditions that may not be realistic for real life driving, eg low friction tyres pumped to an excessively high KPa, testing done on a very low friction test road, best quality engine oil/air filter/best fuel/lowest load (pump less than quarter tank, removed spare tyre, etc)/zero wind resistance/etc etc

 

That is why I do not rely on the meter readings; I monitor FC via manual calculation. At the next servicing, I will go for the motul 300v 5w-40, and replace a new air filter as well. Hopefully this could add an additional 0.5km/l to my current FC to achieve >9km/l, based on the same Shell98 and driving pattern 70city30hway. For a 1680kg SUV with turbo engine 240hp 350Nm and drive pattern 70city30hway, 9km/l is very respectable

 

Hi!

 

There is a clarification to seek:

 

Quote: I am driving a stock 2016-FL FXT, pump shell98 and currently on Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 EO, my next 10k servicing is due end of this month (last servicing done 6 months ago in Jan 2018).

 

Clarification: Where did you managed to obtain the Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 EO to be used in your engine? You performed the service at MI workshop?

 

Thank you.

 

Best regards,

 

K. C.

[Yeowww]

Bro Yeowww who has installed his XT with yellow stuff earlier for DP41583R for front and DP41758R for rear, so the XT size for rear is 278mm for sure. Juz tat no one able to measure the rear for FNA size....  

 

Yes, for FXT front dia 318mm, rear 278mm

[richard_crl032]

I am driving a stock 2016-FL FXT, pump shell98 and currently on Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 EO, my next 10k servicing is due end of this month (last servicing done 6 months ago in Jan 2018). My routine travel pattern is consistently 70city 30hway – ie for a typical mon to fri working day 35min journey during peak hour = 25 minute city driving with usual traffic light start stop (70%), and 10 min on the highway without stoppage (30%); my FC is about 8.5 to 8.6km/l base on real life manual calculation, although the meter reads average ~10.8litre/100km = 9.3km/h. The meter is about 8-10% inflated. If you need to rely on the meter reading, I would suggest you multiply the meter reading (after converting to km/l) by 0.9 to get a rough estimation of real life FC. The reason for the inflated meter reading could be the factory calibration was based on lab-test conditions that may not be realistic for real life driving, eg low friction tyres pumped to an excessively high KPa, testing done on a very low friction test road, best quality engine oil/air filter/best fuel/lowest load (pump less than quarter tank, removed spare tyre, etc)/zero wind resistance/etc etc.

That is why I do not rely on the meter readings; I monitor FC via manual calculation. At the next servicing, I will go for the motul 300v 5w-40, and replace a new air filter as well. Hopefully this could add an additional 0.5km/l to my current FC to achieve >9km/l, based on the same Shell98 and driving pattern 70city30hway. For a 1680kg SUV with turbo engine 240hp 350Nm and drive pattern 70city30hway, 9km/l is very respectable

 

Hi Fxt2016/KC,

 

MI uses *W/30 Shell Helix Ultra ? Looks like needing to continue with expensive and non lasting motul 300v every 5-6k km liao .. lol !

 

Even 1.2l turbo qashqai uses *W/40 at TanChong vs non turbo 2.0L qashqai using thinner *W/30 vs GTR using much thicker *W/50 for betta protection especially in our nice tropical Singapore ... yes, Motul 300v is 5w/40 from MI which I am using also at outside WS and believe it should viscosity 40 if not 50 !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited July 3, 2018 by richard_crl032

[OnceInALifeTime]

I am driving a stock 2016-FL FXT, pump shell98 and currently on Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 EO, my next 10k servicing is due end of this month (last servicing done 6 months ago in Jan 2018). My routine travel pattern is consistently 70city 30hway – ie for a typical mon to fri working day 35min journey during peak hour = 25 minute city driving with usual traffic light start stop (70%), and 10 min on the highway without stoppage (30%); my FC is about 8.5 to 8.6km/l base on real life manual calculation, although the meter reads average ~10.8litre/100km = 9.3km/h. The meter is about 8-10% inflated. If you need to rely on the meter reading, I would suggest you multiply the meter reading (after converting to km/l) by 0.9 to get a rough estimation of real life FC. The reason for the inflated meter reading could be the factory calibration was based on lab-test conditions that may not be realistic for real life driving, eg low friction tyres pumped to an excessively high KPa, testing done on a very low friction test road, best quality engine oil/air filter/best fuel/lowest load (pump less than quarter tank, removed spare tyre, etc)/zero wind resistance/etc etc.

That is why I do not rely on the meter readings; I monitor FC via manual calculation. At the next servicing, I will go for the motul 300v 5w-40, and replace a new air filter as well. Hopefully this could add an additional 0.5km/l to my current FC to achieve >9km/l, based on the same Shell98 and driving pattern 70city30hway. For a 1680kg SUV with turbo engine 240hp 350Nm and drive pattern 70city30hway, 9km/l is very respectable

 

Hi Fxt2016/KC,

 

MI uses *W/30 Shell Helix Ultra ? Looks like needing to continue with expensive and non lasting motul 300v every 5-6k km liao .. lol !

 

Even 1.2l turbo qashqai uses *W/40 at TanChong vs non turbo 2.0L qashqai using thinner *W/30 vs GTR using much thicker *W/50 for betta protection especially in our nice tropical Singapore ... yes, Motul 300v is 5w/40 from MI which I am using also at outside WS and believe it should viscosity 40 if not 50 !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

 

Hi Richard,

 

Nope. It seems that MI is using Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40. But Shell also produce 5W30 grade too. Hence, was clarifying if MI did provisioned that grade. So in the next service could request for it.

 

There is also Motul 300V 5W-30 grade too. But not sure if MI is providing.

 

Not that 300V is not lasting. As it is a "racing engine oil", formulated with more anti-wear additives and lesser cleaning detergent additives for extended usage.

 

Great to hear that you are changing your 300V engine oil at shorter intervals rather than to use it till full 10k km mileage; as you had previously mentioned.

 

Thank you.

 

Best regards,

 

K. C.

[richard_crl032]

Hi Richard,

 

Nope. It seems that MI is using Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40. But Shell also produce 5W30 grade too. Hence, was clarifying if MI did provisioned that grade. So in the next service could request for it.

 

There is also Motul 300V 5W-30 grade too. But not sure if MI is providing.

 

Not that 300V is not lasting. As it is a "racing engine oil", formulated with more anti-wear additives and lesser cleaning detergent additives for extended usage.

 

Great to hear that you are changing your 300V engine oil at shorter intervals rather than to use it till full 10k km mileage; as you had previously mentioned.

 

Thank you.

 

Best regards,

 

K. C.

Hi KC,

 

Got it and understand now ..tks !

 

I may just try to use back shell 5w40 every 10k km to save trouble and $ and hence the clarification raised but indeed 5k km interval cannot be bad for our hot turbo fxt engine .. dunno yet.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[Chucky2007]

I’m a supporter of thin EO like w30 or even w20. The thickest oil I used is 5w40. Yes true that if the car is hard driven at constant high rpm up down NSHW, thicker oil is better, but another school of thought is that there is more wear when engine start up, especially when engine is cold. Thinner oil allows faster flow when cold which will prevent this wear.

 

For my driving pattern in Singapore and in Malaysia My EO temp rarely exceeds 95 degree therefore I think w30 oil is more than sufficient for the protection. I have even used 5w20 from 10k to 30k when my FXT is relatively new.

 

Basically all oil is ok if perform EO change at not more than 10k. I do mine at 5 or latest 7k so thin oil is ok