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Honda Owners..... Pls Check In..


Redz
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(edited)

I think PI or AD would give excuses for warranty

 

I say take the 5 years

I agree....they may say it's due to wear and tear ..better keep the 4.5k and keep it aside for any parts fault...but so long as u dont bash the engine or drive wildly, unlikely that major parts will need repair other than wear and tear. Also need to know their t&c for the 10 yr warranty. Do u need to go back to the same workshop for servicing for 10 yrs so warranty wont void? Also good to know which workshop and google its reputation Edited by WangWang888
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(edited)

Hi, while searching for a PI, many stated their terms like "2 bid guaranteed COE without top-ups, Cat A rebate at $23K."

What does "Cat A rebate at $23K means?

Edited by Kityip
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Hi, while searching for a PI, many stated their terms like "2 bid guaranteed COE without top-ups, Cat A rebate at $23K."

What does "Cat A rebate at $23K means?

If COE below the rebate level, return you the difference
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Hi, while searching for a PI, many stated their terms like "2 bid guaranteed COE without top-ups, Cat A rebate at $23K."

What does "Cat A rebate at $23K means?

2 Bid means no ready stock.

 

Rebate at $23k means below $23k you get dollar for dollar rebate, which also means the PI is bidding at $23k for you, predicting coe to drop to $23k.

 

No top up means no need you to top up if you don't want to secure your Coe anything above $23k. Deposit will be refunded to you.

 

CAT A coe cut by 700+ for the next quarter and CAT A is expected to shoot up to $28.5k for the next bid (1st bid of Aug).

 

By the way, $23k rebate is as good as no use. Ask for $28k rebate.

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2 Bid means no ready stock.

 

Rebate at $23k means below $23k you get dollar for dollar rebate, which also means the PI is bidding at $23k for you, predicting coe to drop to $23k.

 

No top up means no need you to top up if you don't want to secure your Coe anything above $23k. Deposit will be refunded to you.

 

CAT A coe cut by 700+ for the next quarter and CAT A is expected to shoot up to $28.5k for the next bid (1st bid of Aug).

 

By the way, $23k rebate is as good as no use. Ask for $28k rebate.

Alex, thank you for your information
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2 Bid means no ready stock.

 

Rebate at $23k means below $23k you get dollar for dollar rebate, which also means the PI is bidding at $23k for you, predicting coe to drop to $23k.

 

No top up means no need you to top up if you don't want to secure your Coe anything above $23k. Deposit will be refunded to you.

 

CAT A coe cut by 700+ for the next quarter and CAT A is expected to shoot up to $28.5k for the next bid (1st bid of Aug).

 

By the way, $23k rebate is as good as no use. Ask for $28k rebate.

 

You sure not?

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2 Bid means no ready stock.

 

Rebate at $23k means below $23k you get dollar for dollar rebate, which also means the PI is bidding at $23k for you, predicting coe to drop to $23k.

 

No top up means no need you to top up if you don't want to secure your Coe anything above $23k. Deposit will be refunded to you.

 

CAT A coe cut by 700+ for the next quarter and CAT A is expected to shoot up to $28.5k for the next bid (1st bid of Aug).

 

By the way, $23k rebate is as good as no use. Ask for $28k rebate.

 

u troll ?

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You sure not?

Replying to your highlighted in red on my post.

 

Which dealer would sell a 2 bid when they have VAC ready stock? Unless they are bidding at an amount lower than the current Coe.

 

Very simple to find out whether if what I say is true.

 

1) Get the dealer to show the physical car at the warehouse with the chassis number

 

2) Tally the chassis number with the VAC approval letter from LTA

 

As for the no top up part, it depends on how much the Coe is tagged to the car the price is sold at.

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2 Bid means no ready stock.

 

Rebate at $23k means below $23k you get dollar for dollar rebate, which also means the PI is bidding at $23k for you, predicting coe to drop to $23k.

 

No top up means no need you to top up if you don't want to secure your Coe anything above $23k. Deposit will be refunded to you.

 

CAT A coe cut by 700+ for the next quarter and CAT A is expected to shoot up to $28.5k for the next bid (1st bid of Aug).

 

By the way, $23k rebate is as good as no use. Ask for $28k rebate.

I might be wrong, but I don’t think deposit will be refunded to you if you don’t want secure COE leh.
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Hi gd mornng bros.

 

Would just like to check, I have just gotten a 2019 Fit 1.3 GF-package from PI. Car works wonderful, FC is amazing, but there is just one thing that is annoying me on a daily basis. Thus, would like to get your advice.

 

My AC compressor cyclics on and off every 8-10 seconds, and the vibration + metallic clicking noise it makes when it turns on/off is pretty audible. I checked with my bro-in-law who also collected his new Fit same time as me, and althought the cyclic motion is still present, his is less frequent (maybe every min or so) and the vibration/noise is not so loud as compared to mine.

 

I brought to workshop to check, they said its normal. Because its the compressor maintaining the correct pressure (which i researched online and its true, talk about learning something new everyday haha!) Funny thing is, after googling, seems like this is an issue which most Honda owners faced overseas. But a part of me just cannot accept the intermittent vibration and metal clicking sound since this is a new car.

 

So, just wanna check with bros here, is this issue normal for Honda cars? Should i just try to ignore it, or can i flag this as a defect?

Thanks in advance!

Lim

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Hi gd mornng bros.

 

Would just like to check, I have just gotten a 2019 Fit 1.3 GF-package from PI. Car works wonderful, FC is amazing, but there is just one thing that is annoying me on a daily basis. Thus, would like to get your advice.

 

My AC compressor cyclics on and off every 8-10 seconds, and the vibration + metallic clicking noise it makes when it turns on/off is pretty audible. I checked with my bro-in-law who also collected his new Fit same time as me, and althought the cyclic motion is still present, his is less frequent (maybe every min or so) and the vibration/noise is not so loud as compared to mine.

 

I brought to workshop to check, they said its normal. Because its the compressor maintaining the correct pressure (which i researched online and its true, talk about learning something new everyday haha!) Funny thing is, after googling, seems like this is an issue which most Honda owners faced overseas. But a part of me just cannot accept the intermittent vibration and metal clicking sound since this is a new car.

 

So, just wanna check with bros here, is this issue normal for Honda cars? Should i just try to ignore it, or can i flag this as a defect?

 

Thanks in advance!

Lim

 

 

This is normal for honda cars for the ac compressor to kick in every now and than. this is not any issue. dont worry is not defect.

 

just enjoy your new ride.  [;)]

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Neutral Newbie

Is it normal to hear a rattling sound from the back of the car (seems like fuel tank or exhaust) after shut down engine?

 

Driving 1.5 petrol Vezel X

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Is it normal to hear a rattling sound from the back of the car (seems like fuel tank or exhaust) after shut down engine?

 

Driving 1.5 petrol Vezel X

Maybe something loose...

You can go to this workshop Technic Autocare to check.

Last time I went there, the service was good.

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This is normal for honda cars for the ac compressor to kick in every now and than. this is not any issue. dont worry is not defect.

 

just enjoy your new ride.  [;)]

Thanks bro!

 

I also start to think that this is common for most Honda cars, because i realise that when there are Fit/Jazz driving past at my place's basement CP, i can alos hear the clicking sound of the compressor haha..

 

I will be gg to JB to do soundproofing to try and eliminate the noise haha!

You may like to check the compressor oil/coolant.  If the coolant level is low, the compressor has to work harder.

 

You can also increase the temperature and fan speed to reduce the load on the compressor.  Usually, 24 degC plus medium fan speed works best for me to circulate cool air around the cabin.

Checked the coolant level with the workshop, confirmed to be at the correct level. The technician even did a AC flush out of goodwill, and shown me the AC gas level pressure to ensure that its at the right level.

 

yes i agree with you, when i turned the fan speed to 3 & above, the compressor turns on/off less frequently = less annoying click sound/vibration

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Any recommendations on what kinda car accessories or protection to buy for new car?

 

first time car owner here with a new Honda Fit hybrid coming out this week. =D

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My AC compressor cyclics on and off every 8-10 seconds, and the vibration + metallic clicking noise it makes when it turns on/off is pretty audible. I checked with my bro-in-law who also collected his new Fit same time as me, and althought the cyclic motion is still present, his is less frequent (maybe every min or so) and the vibration/noise is not so loud as compared to mine.

 

 

If you are on Econ mode, the compressor will cut in and out more often to save energy. 

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If you are on Econ mode, the compressor will cut in and out more often to save energy. 

hey there, nope my Econ mode is not turned on. But nevertheless, after extensive research (including asking 4 x random strangers who drives a Jazz/Fit/Vezel at my office carpark), i have concluded that this AC compressor cycling on & off issue is a normal behaviour for all Honda cars. Especially for those which are using the new DOHC engines. Unfortunately, I failed to notice this sound when I was test driving the Jazz at KM, if not i most probably would have bought the Avante instead.

 

But oh wells, no use crying over spilt milk. At least i enjoy much better Fuel Consumption and Handling with the Honda!

 

Thanks for your reply, cheers!

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