Difference between Philips DiamondVision Plus and Crystal Vision?

[Gary84]

no prob bro...u enjoy urs too~

[Catdontmeow]

if mine using 12v 55W H1, can i use the 12V 100W H1?

[Gary84]

my answer is no...almost twice the voltage lei bro...fuse will blow very soon...

[Catdontmeow]

any bro tried it before using a higher wattage bulb? eg: orig 12V 60/50W, wan to use 12V 100/90watt ->can or not?

[Gary84]

definitely nt me..i dun wana risk doing that...

[Thermodynamics]

DV is more bluish. CV is more whitish. Colour temp is different. Both illumination sucks big time as they are blue-coated bulbs. Vision Plus offers the best illumination in the market for halogen bulbs. Cheaper too.

[Garlic]

Its strongly not recommended, why take the risk of the wire overheating and catching fire?

Edited May 25, 2006 by Garlic

[Catdontmeow]

thanks bro

[Raycsk]

Just like to share.

 

The colour or hue (how bluish or yellowish) the light would also depend on the material that is uised to make the headlamp or fog light.

 

For instance, I installed a particular model of bulbs for my headlamps and fog lamps. They're both the same model (e.g. Diamond Vision). The fogs looked whiter compared to the headlamps as the fogs were made of glass and headlamp some sort of plastic.

 

So I had to opt for a lower grade of bulbs for the headlamp to create the same color of light.

[Vblaster_w211]

Crystal Vision illumination is brighter than my stock with better throw.

[Thermodynamics]

White light is made up of every color of light mixed together. But the colors are not all present in equal amounts. The output spectrum of halogen headlamp bulbs includes a great deal of red, orange, yellow and green light, but very little blue or violet light. Blue bulbs have colored glass (or a filter coating applied to clear glass) that allows only the blue light through the filter (this is why the bulbs appear blue). Because very little blue light is produced by a halogen bulb in the first place, it is only this very small amount (a tiny fraction of the total amount of light produced by a halogen bulb filament) that ever reaches the road.

 

Blue and violet are the shortest wavelength/highest frequency colors of visible light, and, as such, they scatter the most readily. This is why the sky is blue rather than any other color from the sun's white output spectrum. Not only does blue light scatter most readily in the sky, it scatters readily in the eye also. This explains why we find the bluish headlights of cars behind us glaring. The road lighting ability of blue bulbs is reduced by 70%, but increases glare for oncoming and preceding traffic by 33%. This apparent contradiction arises because of the way the human eye handles light of different colors. The short-wavelength colors (blue, indigo and violet) are very difficult for our eyes to process and focus on. That is because blue light does not trigger a strong pupil-closing response in human eyes. It is yellow light that stimulates the human eye most strongly to constrict the pupil. Due to the comparatively weak pupil response to blue light, the human eye is very glare-sensitive to a blue signal image. With the yellow light filtered out by the blue bulb and prevented from reaching the observer's eyes, the pupils remain wider open than they should, and the eyes are hit with a blast of difficult-to-process blue light. On the other hand, normal halogen headlights have output spectrum consisting largely of yellow light. They trigger a pupil-closing response in the eyes of oncoming traffic, helping to reduce the short and long term effects of headlamp glare. This glare-protection response is severely compromised when the oncoming signal image is blue.

 

Try this small test to see your eyes' colour response to blue and red colours (may not work for some) glare glare glare

 

The red 'glare' may be slightly clearer than the blue 'glare' and if I put the 2 colours together, the effect created is violet/purple due to your pupils unable to process the blue spectrum properly from the red.

 

Last but not least, some may wonder: If blue filtration steals light, how do manufacturers still make these bulbs produce legal output with the blue filter? Philips optimizes the bulb's efficacy through filament and gas-fill technology, so that the uncoated bulb performs up near the top end of the allowable output range, or even slightly above the maximum allowable output. It took Philips quite a bit of research and development to produce blue filters that would not drop the bulb output below the legal minimum while still altering the appearance of the operating headlamp enough to appeal to consumers after a "whiter" appearance to their headlamps eg. Blue Vision. For those who want the best possible performance from their headlamps and are more concerned with their ability to see rather than the appearance of their headlamps, optimized bulbs WITHOUT the light-stealing blue coloration such as Osram Super or Philips Vision Plus are the ones to go for. For best headlamp performance and best value, choose only bulbs with clear glass.

Edited May 26, 2006 by Thermodynamics

[Wrc206]

Wow, this is really good info.

[Garlic]

I chose CV as it comes with a pair of W5W and is LTA compliant.

 

I'm happy with its colour and throw.

 

 

Here is a pic for your reference, using CV for low beam and stock bulbs for high.

 

 

 

Edited May 27, 2006 by Garlic

[Brock]

Hey Garlic,

 

Thanks for your reply and the pics. The extra mile you went through to post the pics really is benefical to me plus many other forumers here too. Thanks again!

[Pisces69]

any bro tried it before using a higher wattage bulb? eg: orig 12V 60/50W, wan to use 12V 100/90watt ->can or not?

==========================

 

I did that very long ago when my original was 55/60w & I changed to 100/110w.

 

I used them for more than a year without any problems.

 

Gave a much brighter light but as is common knowledge, it might cause the wires to overheat & burn. I took the risk & got away with it.

 

Maybe I was lucky.

[Garlic]

Found this article while reading about bulbs.

 

Source: http://www.viva-lancia.com/fulvia/qanda/el.../headlights.php

 

Light units are precision optical systems. The filament has to be in the focus position to produce the most effective pattern. Using 100 Watt bulbs is often counterproductive. The filaments are much bigger and most of the filament is not in the focal point. They may throw a lot of light forward but the efficiency of the pattern is lost. Also the current that 100 Watt bulbs draw is twice as high compared to 55 Watt bulbs. Voltage drops in the wiring are thus also twice as high. I have seen cases were 100 Watt bulbs actually produced less light than 55 Watt bulbs because the voltage was more than 20% lower as a result of the very high currents.

 

100 watt bulbs are also too much for the dynamo / alternator. At best you will only suffer from a flat battery, but chances are that you will ruin the voltage regulator and dynamo / alternator. I have seen people putting 90 Amp dynamo's in. This is no good. The wiring was calculated for the 30 Amp (or there abouts) units. Sooner or later the 90 Amp unit is going to deliver 90 Amps and the wiring will burn. And remember the electrical power does come from the fuel tank in the end. I am sure the engine can handle an extra kilowatt, but the V belt cannot. The single V belt as used on the Fulvia's is good for 45 Amps max. If you like your car to be reliable, best limit it to 40 Amps.

Edited May 27, 2006 by Garlic

[Garlic]

This bulb looks interesting.

 

http://www.nam.lighting.philips.com/us/aut.../nightguide.php

 

http://www.lighting.philips.com/in_en/cons...ighting&lang=en

[Pisces69]

Very interesting reading. Thanks for the link.