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Fuel Consumption Saving Tips


Gigacrusher
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Hi,

1. What brand is the engine metal treatment? (bought where?)

 

2. We know expressway also has upslope, and downslope.

Assuming little traffic ahead and no tailgaters,

- do you accelerate slightly before upslope to gain momentum?

- If it is a very long, gradual upslope in expressway, do u cruise and let it decelerate naturally due to increased

rolling resistance? (sometimes, can cause annonyance but slowing to 65km/h for 80km/h road)

 

3. Got the following from a fuel saving tip:

"Fill up when your gas tank is half-full (or half-empty), because the more gas you have in your tank the less air there is and gasoline evaporates rapidly, especially when it's warm (gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating 'roof' membrane to act as a barrier between the gas and the atmosphere, thereby minimizing evaporation). "

 

Any truth in it? or better to drive with a lighter load?

 

4. Anyone using scangauge parameters to adjust your throttle accordingly (without hogging traffic and with reasonably light road condition)?

If so, which scangauge parameters you like for hypermiling?

 

5. Any scangauge users monitoring TPS (throttle position per second) for more effective hypermiling?

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Will reply you when convenient. Out at sea catching crabs for the next few days. Physically involved and demanding. No time for internet for the time being. Sorry to keep you waiting but will reply you when i come back. :D

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Hi, decide to be back early. Too tired without my sleep.

 

1) I stopped using engine treatment 3 months ago. Wanted to find out how good the FC of my car is with only the factory/agent recommended & provided item. Was using PROLONG before. Bought it from Autobacs.

 

2) Yes I accelerate slightly when going upslope to gain momentum. For long upslope stretches, I step on the pedal sustained but not too hard. After reaching the apex, i release the pedal a little to a point where I don't feel any engine noise/vibration, but continue stepping a little just enough to keep the speed constant. Having the turbo boost meter helps alot. Constantly giving visual feedback on how hard i am stepping.

 

3) Not sure about filling-up when half-tank. But I was told by the pump attendant better to fill-up early in the morning. Yes, I noticed that if I fill-up in the mornings, there is very little or no escaping evaporated fuel as. But when I fill-up in a hot afternoon, alot of gas escaped and i could even feel the built-up pressure as i remove the lid. By the way, driving with unnecessary load is one of the basic guides to reduce our FC.

 

4) I don't use scanguage but I think it will be very useful. I use only what is provided by the factory. The turbo boost meter is good enough for me.

 

5) You can try asking if any of the members here have tried using the scanguage.

 

 

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I have been driving during peak hours along CTE & PIE for several years.

 

Lately, I noticed more drivers are consciously driving smoothly and leaving buffer zones. There is a marked difference in the driving attitude compared to before. Probably due to the continual fuel price hike.

 

Except for some, more drivers are realising that keeping the momentum going is easier to accelerate off, than compared to revving the engine hard from stand still only having to brake hard to stop for the over-acceleration.

 

Just for information sake. Latest models of German cars from Mercedes Benz, Audi and VW are outperforming Japanese cars in terms of FC.

 

I used to drive my boss's Merc (I was her personal driver). Drive smoothly and it's possible to return with 14+ km/litre.

 

Based on my own experiments, I brought the average FC of my car from 14+km/litre to 19+km/litre without adding any devices or additives.

 

My next step is to replace the paper filter to a Hurricane wire mess type to see what difference it will make.

 

I will be using the Broquet (in-tank) and also be installing the E-throttle with eco-mode control later this year.

 

Then see how much more it's possible to improve the FC (in real world conditions).

 

 

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I have been driving during peak hours along CTE & PIE for several years.

 

Lately, I noticed more drivers are consciously driving smoothly and leaving buffer zones. There is a marked difference in the driving attitude compared to before. Probably due to the continual fuel price hike.

 

Except for some, more drivers are realising that keeping the momentum going is easier to accelerate off, than compared to revving the engine hard from stand still only having to brake hard to stop for the over-acceleration.

 

Just for information sake. Latest models of German cars from Mercedes Benz, Audi and VW are outperforming Japanese cars in terms of FC.

 

I used to drive my boss's Merc (I was her personal driver). Drive smoothly and it's possible to return with 14+ km/litre.

 

Based on my own experiments, I brought the average FC of my car from 14+km/litre to 19+km/litre without adding any devices or additives.

 

My next step is to replace the paper filter to a Hurricane wire mess type to see what difference it will make.

 

I will be using the Broquet (in-tank) and also be installing the E-throttle with eco-mode control later this year.

 

Then see how much more it's possible to improve the FC (in real world conditions).

 

 

 

Maintain <2500 RPM also help rite ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Maintain <2500 RPM also help rite ?

 

Most people know about highest gear + lowest rpm but they don't realise engine load (via the throttle position sensor) also plays a part.

 

Highest possible gear + lowest rpm + min throttle = best FC

 

High gear + low rpm + high throttle = increased FC

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Most people know about highest gear + lowest rpm but they don't realise engine load (via the throttle position sensor) also plays a part.

 

Highest possible gear + lowest rpm + min throttle = best FC

 

High gear + low rpm + high throttle = increased FC

but how to know the throttle position while driving? any tips?

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but how to know the throttle position while driving? any tips?

 

Your foot [laugh] No really, your foot angle is the best way to gauge.

 

One trick I've learnt is to move your seat one notch backwards so the same angle of your foot = less depression of the pedal (a.k.a. throttle). Saves you some re-learning of fine motor control skills [laugh]

 

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Most of these continental cars are smaller in engine displacement capacity, and turbo charged.

I am interested in the fuel broquet too, but hold back as I am not sure if it really work.

Pse share your broquet experience when you have it in your car.

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Most of these continental cars are smaller in engine displacement capacity, and turbo charged.

I am interested in the fuel broquet too, but hold back as I am not sure if it really work.

Pse share your broquet experience when you have it in your car.

 

I will be the guinea pig for trying Broquet. That will only come after I try the Hurricane filter. So give me time. At least two months of daily driving to judge the benefit of each device. (Two months approx. 6000km for my car)

 

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Maintain <2500 RPM also help rite ?

 

Depending on the make and model of the car and the gear ratios.

 

Cars with 7 or 8 speed transmission give better FC at higher speeds with lower rpm (2000). New VWs can cruise comfortably near 100km/h at just under 2000rpm.

 

My small car (4 speed auto) cruise without strain between 2500 to 3000rpm (66km/h to 80km/h).

 

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Depending on the make and model of the car and the gear ratios.

 

Cars with 7 or 8 speed transmission give better FC at higher speeds with lower rpm (2000). New VWs can cruise comfortably near 100km/h at just under 2000rpm.

 

My small car (4 speed auto) cruise without strain between 2500 to 3000rpm (66km/h to 80km/h).

 

 

in this case, if my car is 7 spd, does it mean that i have to throttle heavy to 80-100 asap and maintain at <2K rpm?

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but how to know the throttle position while driving? any tips?

 

Other than foot pressure/position, the other is to monitor from your boost (or pressure) guage if you have one. The meter is sensitive to how much you apply to the throttle. Slight changes in your foot pressure shows very clearly. Correct me if i'm wrong, I think the meter applies only to cars that are turbo charged.

 

The other option is to observe your rpm meter. Not as finely accurate and indicative as the boost guage though.

 

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in this case, if my car is 7 spd, does it mean that i have to throttle heavy to 80-100 asap and maintain at <2K rpm?

 

Don't have to throttle heavy. Just accelerate according to traffic pace. If possible, maintain at the optimum cruising speed/rpm thereafter.

 

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Fir a good cause to help poor me lah.

 

The major reason holding me back from installing it, is that if it's so good and beig around for many years, why car mfr did not adapt it into their production .

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Your foot [laugh] No really, your foot angle is the best way to gauge.

 

One trick I've learnt is to move your seat one notch backwards so the same angle of your foot = less depression of the pedal (a.k.a. throttle). Saves you some re-learning of fine motor control skills [laugh]

thanx....but i've already optimised my seating position (important cos i dun have telescopic steering wheel)....i'll juz have to learn to go easy on my foot [;)]

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