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Coolant, to flush or not to flush?


Pdesign1
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I bot my coolant from Mal, its around RM4++ per bottle and i use 3 bottle (total 1.5L) , then mixed with distilled water.

 

I flush it with normal tap water for a few rounds to ensure that the collant inside the colling system is completely flushed out. This include draining the existing collant mix, fill up with tap water till full, start the engine and let the tap water circulate. Drain out the coolant... repeat till you see the water drained out is clean and clear... this should take at least 4 to 5 rounds of the above steps.

 

after that, I use distilled water bought from NTUC (shld be less than $0.70 per 1.5L, repeat the above process again to get rid of the tap water inside the cooling system, this should take another 3 rounds of flushing to ensure that the tap water in the cooling system is min...

 

Finally, I'll add in the collant and distilled water at 50% each....

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(edited)

The dealer could be right if it was many years back when some of the cooling system pipes were made of metal and the cooling system has been neglected for a long time.

 

Edited - Rephrase.

Edited by Kklee
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There are many types as opposed to grades. Different manufacturers like to use the type they designed the system for. Use the Search Luke.

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Mileage was 69K when I collected. Bought from dealer, never met previous owner before.

 

Timing belt change should be at 120K.

 

Timing Belt around 80-100K...Must Change... [idea]

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Cheapest antifreeze for cast iron (engine block) and aluminium (radiator) around is Nissan concentrated.

 

Got mine from AV. $16 for 3L and $8 for 1L. I would recommend this for those who hit 25-30k km a year. Longer life coolant like Prestone's 5/150 best reserved for low mileage cars that take forever to hit 150k.

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hey genie, any idea which will flush better? Something acidic (e.g. vinegar) or something alkaline (e.g. dishwasher tables, off the shelf radiator flushes)?

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Neutral Newbie

Bro.. if change to toyota coolant at 10k servicing... then at 20k which is one year later.. top up coolant or flush out and change new coolant ?

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Can look at the condition of the radiator first mah. Of course drain it first.

 

If really a lot of oxide or rust accumulation, better to change it. Right?

 

3 yrs old should be alright. Can always inspect the condition first then make decision.

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(edited)

Hi there. From another post of yours, I learn that the Caltex green color Extended LongLife coolant is OAT based.

 

My current coolant has not been changed since I got my new lancer 2yrs ago and it also uses green color coolant.

 

I intend to DIY coolant change but unsure if these 2 coolants are somewhat similar in properties and can be mixed even though the color is the same? Cos instead of flushing everything including those coolant in the engine compartment, I may wanna just drain the radiator of the current coolant and refill with the Caltex ELL mix with distilled water and Redline Water Wetter.

 

Save cost, labour and time... rolleyes.gif

 

EDIT: Oh yah, before someone tells me no need for Water Wetter...blah blah blah, I like to say that I do drive spiritedly all the time and if situation allows will rev till 6000rpm and also go tracking so it is important that I proceed with giving my ride better cooling. [laugh]

Edited by Orixy
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I think you better then stick to Redline all the way then. Just drain, fill with water. Rinse and repeat until you got nothing but clear water coming out. Fill up with WW and just go with it.

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