Tigershark1976 Turbocharged May 5, 2007 Share May 5, 2007 I bot my coolant from Mal, its around RM4++ per bottle and i use 3 bottle (total 1.5L) , then mixed with distilled water. I flush it with normal tap water for a few rounds to ensure that the collant inside the colling system is completely flushed out. This include draining the existing collant mix, fill up with tap water till full, start the engine and let the tap water circulate. Drain out the coolant... repeat till you see the water drained out is clean and clear... this should take at least 4 to 5 rounds of the above steps. after that, I use distilled water bought from NTUC (shld be less than $0.70 per 1.5L, repeat the above process again to get rid of the tap water inside the cooling system, this should take another 3 rounds of flushing to ensure that the tap water in the cooling system is min... Finally, I'll add in the collant and distilled water at 50% each.... ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kklee 6th Gear May 9, 2007 Share May 9, 2007 (edited) The dealer could be right if it was many years back when some of the cooling system pipes were made of metal and the cooling system has been neglected for a long time. Edited - Rephrase. Edited May 9, 2007 by Kklee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ac1d6urn Neutral Newbie May 13, 2007 Share May 13, 2007 Is there a grading for coolant just like engine oil? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie47 1st Gear May 14, 2007 Share May 14, 2007 There are many types as opposed to grades. Different manufacturers like to use the type they designed the system for. Use the Search Luke. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ccssgm 1st Gear May 14, 2007 Share May 14, 2007 Mileage was 69K when I collected. Bought from dealer, never met previous owner before. Timing belt change should be at 120K. Timing Belt around 80-100K...Must Change... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie47 1st Gear May 15, 2007 Share May 15, 2007 Cheapest antifreeze for cast iron (engine block) and aluminium (radiator) around is Nissan concentrated. Got mine from AV. $16 for 3L and $8 for 1L. I would recommend this for those who hit 25-30k km a year. Longer life coolant like Prestone's 5/150 best reserved for low mileage cars that take forever to hit 150k. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin 4th Gear May 15, 2007 Share May 15, 2007 nah... should be ok to flush Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elfenstar 3rd Gear May 15, 2007 Share May 15, 2007 hey genie, any idea which will flush better? Something acidic (e.g. vinegar) or something alkaline (e.g. dishwasher tables, off the shelf radiator flushes)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Droozy Neutral Newbie May 16, 2007 Share May 16, 2007 Bro.. if change to toyota coolant at 10k servicing... then at 20k which is one year later.. top up coolant or flush out and change new coolant ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watwheels Supersonic May 16, 2007 Share May 16, 2007 Can look at the condition of the radiator first mah. Of course drain it first. If really a lot of oxide or rust accumulation, better to change it. Right? 3 yrs old should be alright. Can always inspect the condition first then make decision. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie47 1st Gear May 16, 2007 Share May 16, 2007 I like vinegar. Volatile acid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orixy 2nd Gear May 16, 2007 Share May 16, 2007 (edited) Hi there. From another post of yours, I learn that the Caltex green color Extended LongLife coolant is OAT based. My current coolant has not been changed since I got my new lancer 2yrs ago and it also uses green color coolant. I intend to DIY coolant change but unsure if these 2 coolants are somewhat similar in properties and can be mixed even though the color is the same? Cos instead of flushing everything including those coolant in the engine compartment, I may wanna just drain the radiator of the current coolant and refill with the Caltex ELL mix with distilled water and Redline Water Wetter. Save cost, labour and time... EDIT: Oh yah, before someone tells me no need for Water Wetter...blah blah blah, I like to say that I do drive spiritedly all the time and if situation allows will rev till 6000rpm and also go tracking so it is important that I proceed with giving my ride better cooling. Edited May 16, 2007 by Orixy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie47 1st Gear May 16, 2007 Share May 16, 2007 I think you better then stick to Redline all the way then. Just drain, fill with water. Rinse and repeat until you got nothing but clear water coming out. Fill up with WW and just go with it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearoil 1st Gear May 16, 2007 Share May 16, 2007 Water?....wouldn't this cause rust to the radiator? Unless deionised water right? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orixy 2nd Gear May 16, 2007 Share May 16, 2007 you mean only WW + water? No need for antifreeze? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie47 1st Gear May 16, 2007 Share May 16, 2007 No need. Avoid strange chemical reactions with regular antifreeze. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie47 1st Gear May 16, 2007 Share May 16, 2007 WW has rust inhibitors so no need to worry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orixy 2nd Gear May 16, 2007 Share May 16, 2007 K tks bro! ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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