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Hypothetical Question on Aquaplaning


Phluvcat
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Scenario:

 

Speed: 100km/h

Road: Almost straight, normal asphalt

Lane: 1st lane, vehicle on left, parapet on right, front and back empty of vehicle

Driven wheel: Front

Transmission: Manual

Puddle: Enough to aquaplane but not deep enough to slow down car

 

Corrective actions will be intuitive and immediately, almost in a subconscious fashion. Apart from straightening the wheel (or see-saw the wheel) to optimize the grip angle, moderation of brakes and selection of lower gear, what else would you do?

 

I was thinking slight clutching in (fast, intermediate and controlled) to disengage the drive from the driven wheels but never actually tried this.

 

You guys reacted differently or did something else?

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The main question is

1) How long is the stretch of puddle of water that caused the aquarplane?

2) Is the puddle of water a 'sudden' deep pool?

3) Or did you increase your speed untill it aquaplane?

 

(1) if the stretch of deep puddle is continuing, then you are farked as the tyre will not be able to recover in time. The car will spin for sure.

(2) If water puddle is only suddenly deep and subsequently will be shallow, then your tyre will regain grip after passing thru the deep puddle, without you needing corrective action.

(3) Easiest is to let go the accelerator, untill speed is 98km/hr-95km/hr, the tyre will regain grip. Assuming the water depth maintains the same throughout the journey, and the tyre only aquaplane because you exceed >100km/hr.

 

The only time I aquarplane was on a rental car....farking tyres was almost botak....gave me the worst 1 second fright of my life. But luckily, it aquarplane due to a sudden deep water pool, and within 1 second the tyre gained back its grip.

Edited by SimonTan
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Scenario:

 

Speed: 100km/h

Road: Almost straight, normal asphalt

Lane: 1st lane, vehicle on left, parapet on right, front and back empty of vehicle

Driven wheel: Front

Transmission: Manual

Puddle: Enough to aquaplane but not deep enough to slow down car

 

Corrective actions will be intuitive and immediately, almost in a subconscious fashion. Apart from straightening the wheel (or see-saw the wheel) to optimize the grip angle, moderation of brakes and selection of lower gear, what else would you do?

 

I was thinking slight clutching in (fast, intermediate and controlled) to disengage the drive from the driven wheels but never actually tried this.

 

You guys reacted differently or did something else?

 

Any issue?

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Neutral Newbie

Once you start to hydroplane, you should release accelerator and push the clutch. But how successful this works depends on what speed you are already moving at , and also on how new or deep your tyre grooves are. (i.e. if the water can't be "squeezed" out from the thin or old grooves, there's really nothing you can do but sit tight and pray)

Best decision is to avoid the situation by driving sensibly in the rain or on wet roads.

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Neutral Newbie

Oh, forgot to mention that during hydroplaning, DON'T step hard on brakes. In fact, if you aren't in immediate danger of hitting the car in front, hold off on hitting the brakes for 1 or 2 seconds, judge if your car is getting any grip, and then hit the brakes gently.

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depends. do one or both sides of your car travel over the puddle? if both sides, u just lose steerage for the moment, no issue.

 

but more often than not, the puddle is unevenly deep, or u hit one side. then u need to grip your steering a bit more tightly and take corrective steering action. cos the car will usually pull to the side of the puddle.

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Neutral Newbie

TC and VSC can't PREVENT hydroplaning but they'll help in the recovery of control once the car regains some traction.

 

Spot on [thumbsup] Aquaplaning is the process when you car tyres lose traction over a puddle of standing water on the road, usually on a rainy day. It usually happens when your vehicle is travelling at a fast speed and your tyre condition is less than desireable (i.e. some all it "botak" or bald). The lack of water dispersion groves (due to excessive wear) on the tyre causes it to handle lick a "slick" tyre (which is good for dry roads cos there's more rubber on it thereby providing greater friction). The "botak" tyre wil then "glide" over the puddle of standing water and wal lah...you aquaplane and lose steering control.

 

Don't get away with the notion that TC, VSC, DSC, DSC+T or whatever "C" your car has that it will not aquaplane. These driver aids are meant to help you in recovering the car in a safer manner should an unforeseen incident happen (like when you aquaplane). You can however, reduce the chances of your car aquaplaning if you check your tyre condition regularly (including its pressure) to ensure that they are always road-worthy. Your choice of tyres is also important. Tyres that work extremely well on dry roads may not necessarily do the same on wet roads. So striking a balance between the two is important, especially in our kind of weather condition.

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Any issue?

 

Just to see if can learn something useful and apply it elsewhere, such as losing grip over road markings and metal manhole covers on the roads.

 

Have a nice weekend bro.

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Once you start to hydroplane, you should release accelerator and push the clutch. But how successful this works depends on what speed you are already moving at , and also on how new or deep your tyre grooves are. (i.e. if the water can't be "squeezed" out from the thin or old grooves, there's really nothing you can do but sit tight and pray)

Best decision is to avoid the situation by driving sensibly in the rain or on wet roads.

 

hmmm...so clutching in appears to be simulating some kind of electronic aid to keep the slide more or less under control, not perfect but worth executing in such situation, in combination with other driving techniques.

 

I was thinking a driven wheel or sudden change to a lower gear both has similar effect of resistance to the natural rotation of the wheel on water, exceeding it which will cause the effect of aquaplaning, so clutching in may be able to alleviate aquaplaning but not all together cos there is still a forward momentum of the car itself. That's like those TC, DSC stuff on diff makes of cars. Ang mo not good enough, dunno how to explain clearly paiseh.....

 

Anyway my car dun even have ABS, it all depends on yours truly, and that's the kick out of it.

 

<_<

 

Of course drive sensibly in the rain, its afterall a hypothetical question and event.

 

Thanks thanks.

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See here. The recommendation is to keep your foot lightly on the accelerator while holding your steering in a direction clear of traffic.

 

 

I don't understand what disengaging the clutch will achieve?

 

I also believe that depending on their design, brand new tyres will hydroplane to different extents. So it is not only old tyres that will hydroplane.

 

But with or without traction control, you cannot help the car gain traction if your foot is not on the accelerator, albeit lightly. So I don't think that lifting your foot off the accelerator is the best way to recover from hydroplaning.

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(edited)

See here. The recommendation is to keep your foot lightly on the accelerator while holding your steering in a direction clear of traffic.

 

 

I don't understand what disengaging the clutch will achieve?

 

I also believe that depending on their design, brand new tyres will hydroplane to different extents. So it is not only old tyres that will hydroplane.

 

But with or without traction control, you cannot help the car gain traction if your foot is not on the accelerator, albeit lightly. So I don't think that lifting your foot off the accelerator is the best way to recover from hydroplaning.

 

Hey thanks for the informative video. The part of not using cruise control during rain is something new to me, helpful if I ever rent a car up north with cruise function!

 

The initial part of the video showed a few braking on wet roads with the tyres turned sideways...I suppose that is negative demonstration.

 

Tyres slowly lose their ability to grip the more they are turned away from the centre line of travel.

 

Thats why the fastest and shortest way of braking is in a straight line. If run out of distance to brake in a straight line, have to see-saw the steering wheel to wring the car into the direction you wanted without totally losing the front grip, i.e. understeering.

 

I believe braking technique is very very important because of the way most people are driving nowadays, and also with the increased frequency of flooding and road debris, the asphalt is "blended" with impurities and braking is not so straighforward anymore.

 

And dun let ABS or whatever electronic aids lull you into a false security.

 

Learned something new today man...thanks.

Edited by Phluvcat
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Best way is to always be aware of the danger and not get into the situation in the first place. If too bad suay2 kena, then just foot off accelerator and pray your vehicle don't swerve. Singapore roads usually have small puddles so at max only 1 sec of lost traction. But then again if you happen to kena one swimming pool of puddle, good luck to you.

 

I always slow down during rain and keep to centre lane. Lesser chance of puddle. Never be too confident of your car's ability...and be extra alert at all times.

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(edited)

i have a bloody good feeling you are PIGANTO.... if you are screw urself...

 

but no offense if you're not... have a nice sunday.

 

ermmm...your post gave me a bit of a shock...suppose you are writing to good carbuyer. right?

Edited by Phluvcat
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hai....already said....hypothetical question liao lor....duh...meaning it already happened...duh

 

anyway, tyre interaction with the tarmac is mostly molecular level, not macro or mechanical as most would think, maybe during aquaplaning.

 

different blend of asphalt, tyres will behave diff, means the car behave diff.

 

but within or there about speed limits, effect is totally insignificant....at higher speed (eg racing at track) then this comes more into the picture.

 

hai...already said its hypothetical lor...

 

<_<

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