Difficulty Starting Engine and Uneven Idling

[Crazecow]

This is bad. I think you should really complain to their manager this time. If the manager can't help complain to manufacturer. Make a big whooha out of it. Sometimes you have to resort to such things in order to get the message across.

[RelaxLah]

After 2 days at the workshop and changing the high pressure fuel pump which cost almost a $1000 (covered by warranty), the problem stubbornly remains.

 

The good thing is, the engine doesn't drop to the drastic 500rpm. The bad thing is, it does go to 700rpm, where it'll idle bumpily and unevenly, with the occasional "hiccup", not to mention the uneven exhuast note. Starting the car still requires long cranking and the occasional "gassing"

 

When turning off the engine, there's that rattling sound akin to shaking rubber pellets in a tin can, followed by semi-violent juddering of the engine before shutting down.

 

Travelling at low speed, there's the rasping feeling on the pedal, or the engine, I'm not sure, which felt like running over sand rather than smooth tarmac.

 

I searched for some aussie site and found some some owners who reported similar problem, and they self-diagnose as EGR valve. They got it cleaned and the engine goes back to the same smoothness he used to enjoy. I'm concern that if my case happens to be faulty EGR valve, I may be facing other related problems like O2 sensor failure, high FC etc...

 

Wah!... Do go back to AD and show them the aussie site...

[Yeobh]

Owner's high expectations on economically mass produce cars can cause alot of head to AD service mechanics. Most of the time they just keep quite and will not let the owners knows that this car cannot behave or function like some high end cars for the fear the owners will start to " bang table" or restort to " call yr manager here".

[Siewss]

I had a talk with the service consultant this morning. The AD advocates changing of parts, not repairing, nor cleaning/washing. I asked for the ICV to be removed for cleaning, and was told that they don't want to risk ending up with a car that cannot idle properly, and worse, cannot start. My car may end up having to take a 3 months vacation in the workshop waiting for parts arrival.

 

However, I'm getting a bit tired of living with the problem. I was browsing and come across a writeup by a DIY enthusiast who posted pictures of how he clean his ICV - looks easy enough. I'm tempted to bring to another workshop to get the cleaning down. Any suggestion?

[Little_prince]

try the JB workshop

[Crazecow]

I had a talk with the service consultant this morning. The AD advocates changing of parts, not repairing, nor cleaning/washing. I asked for the ICV to be removed for cleaning, and was told that they don't want to risk ending up with a car that cannot idle properly, and worse, cannot start. My car may end up having to take a 3 months vacation in the workshop waiting for parts arrival.

 

However, I'm getting a bit tired of living with the problem. I was browsing and come across a writeup by a DIY enthusiast who posted pictures of how he clean his ICV - looks easy enough. I'm tempted to bring to another workshop to get the cleaning down. Any suggestion?

 

Whats your car? Brand?

[Crazecow]

try the JB workshop

 

Going across the causeway to solve a car problem would be the last thing I want to do......

[Thedream]

I had a talk with the service consultant this morning. The AD advocates changing of parts, not repairing, nor cleaning/washing. I asked for the ICV to be removed for cleaning, and was told that they don't want to risk ending up with a car that cannot idle properly, and worse, cannot start. My car may end up having to take a 3 months vacation in the workshop waiting for parts arrival.

 

However, I'm getting a bit tired of living with the problem. I was browsing and come across a writeup by a DIY enthusiast who posted pictures of how he clean his ICV - looks easy enough. I'm tempted to bring to another workshop to get the cleaning down. Any suggestion?

 

sounds familiar. I was previously driving a continental car when my gearbox failed and they said they only replace, and do not overhaul gearboxes. They can be the AD, but they're simply not qualified. I brought my car out to a private workshop for overhaul instead.

[Little_prince]

which jb workshop ?? u malaysiana meh

 

cheaper mah

 

go in for servicing usually

 

then can go play play too

 

hahaha

[Plim72]

I had a talk with the service consultant this morning. The AD advocates changing of parts, not repairing, nor cleaning/washing. I asked for the ICV to be removed for cleaning, and was told that they don't want to risk ending up with a car that cannot idle properly, and worse, cannot start. My car may end up having to take a 3 months vacation in the workshop waiting for parts arrival.

 

However, I'm getting a bit tired of living with the problem. I was browsing and come across a writeup by a DIY enthusiast who posted pictures of how he clean his ICV - looks easy enough. I'm tempted to bring to another workshop to get the cleaning down. Any suggestion?

 

try cityauto...they are authorised agent for mazda and from my past experiences with them on my mazda6(5yrs back through), should be ok. ICV getting clogged after a dusty drive is quite a common problem for most cars. Could be other stuffs like dirty MAF, plugs etc...But a failed PCV valve for warranty car on the other hand, IHMO, is rare but you never know...try talking to cityauto and see what they say. i think you can request warranty replacement with them too if i am not wrong...

 

putting car up at the workshop for up to 3 mth to me is simply unacceptable. Normal workshops can do a full auto to manual conversion plus engine and a full color change for 1 mth at the most!!

 

good luck and thanks for your tips on legendary water home over at the other thread. I am driving up this coming school holiday..

 

oh one thing to add, go easy with the car at the meanwhile..i just did a quick read back with you posting, your car may be misfiring badly...

Edited November 10, 2010 by Plim72

[Pisces69]

You said you got the car started by "applying gas" then the engine started. What you've done is open the throttle plate so air can get in.

Without "applying gas" the only air passage is going into the idling valve, which is quite likely clogged based on your experience.

 

Then your idling is also unstable, which really points to a clogged valve.

 

I think u r right. another cud b a vacuum hose is leaking.

 

Best to get a good mech to look at it n repair.

 

But funny all along engine smooth till he crank while engine running but that sud not cause this problem.

 

Maybe he whack on way to PD n some dirt in fuel line move to idle valve n stuck there causing e problem.

 

[Pisces69]

Ok, here's the chronology of events:

 

1) Sent the car to the workshop, explained all the symptoms to the service consultant, and told him the icv and fuel pumps are likely suspect

2) Service consultant called at noon, told me they found no trouble, and explained what they have done (diagnostics reading, compression test, check idle valve condition, battery)

3) Told service consultant to recheck again, particularly hot starting, with air con on and listen to exhaust note

4) Service consultant called in the evening, told me they retested everything based on 2), but decided to go with ECU reset

5) Went down to workshop for collection. Again was told by service consultant they found nothing wrong. But the ECU reset should help, and I should monitor over a few days

6) Give the car a once over, and checked the car out - the engine fired up immediately, no problem with that. But that's when the tachometer went haywire - the RPM dropped from the already low 700rpm to a steady 500rpm, with or without the aircon on. The whole engine was rocking on on its mounting. Service consultant acknowledged the problem.

7) Decided to drive the car home, but told the service consultant perhaps the ECU is trying to recognised the driving pattern and may take a while to stabilised, and if symptom remains, will drop by the next day to test the car more thoroughly

8) Drove the car home - no problem at all. Parked the car

9) Tested the car again after 3 hours of cooling down. The same exact symptom prior to the workshop check surfaced - difficulty in starting, rough idling

 

 

U mean e mech tested n found nothing wrong n when u start e problem immediately show itself?

 

I wonder if ty dot know how to solve so ty just tell u 'no problem''?

 

Try ask them to replace e idle air control valve n see if problem goes away. Then u hv found e cause already.

 

I actually hv very little confidence in e skills of many mechs at those big ws or AD.

 

[Pisces69]

I had a talk with the service consultant this morning. The AD advocates changing of parts, not repairing, nor cleaning/washing. I asked for the ICV to be removed for cleaning, and was told that they don't want to risk ending up with a car that cannot idle properly, and worse, cannot start. My car may end up having to take a 3 months vacation in the workshop waiting for parts arrival.

 

However, I'm getting a bit tired of living with the problem. I was browsing and come across a writeup by a DIY enthusiast who posted pictures of how he clean his ICV - looks easy enough. I'm tempted to bring to another workshop to get the cleaning down. Any suggestion?

 

 

Can u say what is yr car make n model?

 

This wil b helful when e bros here want to change car n we wil know what car/AD to avoid.

[Pisces69]

sounds familiar. I was previously driving a continental car when my gearbox failed and they said they only replace, and do not overhaul gearboxes. They can be the AD, but they're simply not qualified. I brought my car out to a private workshop for overhaul instead.

 

 

As what Ive said b4, most if not all AD n big ws r staffed by incompetent monkeys who r paid a few peanuts everyday.

 

I threw my AD warranty in e dustbin when i bought my car cos i don't hv any confidence in them.

 

I still prefer my old small omo ws who has taken good care of my cars fr abt 15 years already n all of them ran smoothly fr as long as i owned them.

[Fcw75]

Can u say what is yr car make n model?

 

This wil b helful when e bros here want to change car n we wil know what car/AD to avoid.

 

His avatar looks like the previous generation Mazda 6.

[Hjteo]

Pisces,

I think Siewss is driving a Mazda 6 with manual gearbox.

 

Siewss, correct me if I am wrong.

 

And with regards to the AD, suggest going to a smaller workshop for another opinion - particularly those that can clean the parts (IACV, TPS, blowby valve etc or get a carb cleaner to clean the throttle body and blowby valve diy etc) instead. Maybe use a Singapore workshop so that you can go back to them. Can check Pisces regular workshop in Yishun. The one I use is in AV.

 

By the way, did the AD do any diagnostics and is there any error code?

 

 

 

 

[Kb27]

I think u r right. another cud b a vacuum hose is leaking.

 

Best to get a good mech to look at it n repair.

 

But funny all along engine smooth till he crank while engine running but that sud not cause this problem.

 

Maybe he whack on way to PD n some dirt in fuel line move to idle valve n stuck there causing e problem.

I suggest to someone that his problematic idling is caused by bad air filter.

He had been using those (useless in filtratoin) stainless steel filter.

 

He took my advice and change back to stock air filter.

Then he went to KL, I supposed clear some carbon at the same time and came back.

 

His idling problem appears to be gone...clearing carbon would have helped.

 

But he still wanted me to clean his idling valve anyway, which I did.

Edited November 11, 2010 by Kb27

[Pisces69]

His avatar looks like the previous generation Mazda 6.

 

 

Oh ok tks.

 

Looks like i wont b getting a Mazda anytime soon then.