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One option is to use a WiFi dongle (usually comes with the TV) - you insert this into a USB slot on the TV. It can then receive the wireless radio signal from a router or the Wifi-capable Starhub modem (if that's what you have). But WiFi can be sketchy and erratic. And my LG 3D LED Smart TV had issues with accepting a strong WPA2/PSK password (had to weaken the password for it to connect).

 

So it's better to go wired. The connector is the ethernet (network) plug (technically known as an RJ-45 jack, looks like an outsize telephone jack). You can shove the plug straight from your modem and it should work after power cycling both modem and TV. But then you won't be able to connect any other computers since I'm guessing there's only one cable coming out of the modem (sorry, not familiar with the latest Starhub modems). Hence the usual solution is to direct the Ethernet cable (technically known as Cat 5 cable) coming out from the Starhub modem into a router (in the port usually labelled "WAN" for Wide Area Network), then use one of the "LAN" (for Local Area Network) ports as the output. Just connect a Cat 5 cable (with RJ-45 connectors on either end) between one of the LAN ports of the router to the correct Ethernet port of the TV. You can use the other LAN ports for other PCs/devices, and if it's a wireless router, you can still connect other wireless devices once all the LAN ports have been used up.

 

If you're really blur like sotong about all this, you should be able to get help from any of the Sim Lim Square shops (preferably the ones on the 4th or 5th level), which sell networking cables, etc.

 

Viewing Youtube - try the "Home" button on your remote, if there's one. The menus should be self-explanatory.

 

Once the LAN ports on your router are used up, you can buy a Switch to increase the number of ports that comes in the range of 5/8/16/24/32.

 

 

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Use what I suggested to TS earlier. I've tried the USB wireless dongle that came with my smart tv, it's hopelessly slow. As smart tv has Ethernet port. It's a lot faster.

 

Homeplug devices are quite risky as you're transmitting data through a 220V live wire.

The problem is you won't know when the components inside the Homeplug will go and it'll zap 220V through your PC/Laptop/Switch/Router.

Security is also another concern as you are now on the powergrid, which is all hooked up, you won't know when your connection may be hijacked by another Homeplug device located elsewhere. So far there's no incidents to date, you can't be sure when the hackers will come out with a way to attack these devices.

 

 

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Neutral Newbie

Hi

 

I understand what you mean. The router can be set to Bridge mode and share the same subnet. In fact, this solution is called Access Point solution. The router is act as AP instead of router. It maks alot of difference in the large corporate network.

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Neutral Newbie

both mine is mio type, no antenna.

 

let me digest what you just wrote....

 

 

My friend from TPLink told me that they have a new product called Wireless Range Extender (about $68). It receives the wireless signal from base router and re-transmit to another wireless network which is out of range from base router. The device doesn't require any cable connection except the power source.

 

This seems to be the easiest solution but I haven't tried it out myself on the reliability and therefore cannot make any recommendation.

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Once the LAN ports on your router are used up, you can buy a Switch to increase the number of ports that comes in the range of 5/8/16/24/32.

 

Yes, I know this (in fact, I'm running this setup at home to connect multiple desktops in a different floor via CAT5e because I wanted to avoid WiFi issues). I didn't mention it because I wanted to keep things simple for that poster.

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Homeplug devices are quite risky as you're transmitting data through a 220V live wire.

The problem is you won't know when the components inside the Homeplug will go and it'll zap 220V through your PC/Laptop/Switch/Router.

 

It's not a direct connection, you're going through the Powerline adapter. If anything (unlikely) the adapter will go first. In any case, it can't be any more dangerous than plugging your PC, router, etc. into mains power (which you do anyway).

 

Security is also another concern as you are now on the powergrid, which is all hooked up, you won't know when your connection may be hijacked by another Homeplug device located elsewhere. So far there's no incidents to date, you can't be sure when the hackers will come out with a way to attack these devices.

 

Powerline adapters have encryption which will frustrate eavesdroppers, even if the signal degradation beyond the house does not.

Edited by Turboflat4
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Homeplug devices are quite risky as you're transmitting data through a 220V live wire.

The problem is you won't know when the components inside the Homeplug will go and it'll zap 220V through your PC/Laptop/Switch/Router.

Security is also another concern as you are now on the powergrid, which is all hooked up, you won't know when your connection may be hijacked by another Homeplug device located elsewhere. So far there's no incidents to date, you can't be sure when the hackers will come out with a way to attack these devices.

 

Not quite right friend. The chipset embedded within a powerline adapter in simple speak transduce modulated carrier signals on the powerline to data packets on the ethernet cable. Since data signals on the ethernet cables are transmitted in packets, checksum correction could be made to correct data loss caused by retransmission/transmission/corruption. Unfortunately, the carrier signals used to covey data on powerlines aren't too different from the electrical signals that transmit power as well. Checksum correction is challenging at best.

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Hi

 

I understand what you mean. The router can be set to Bridge mode and share the same subnet. In fact, this solution is called Access Point solution. The router is act as AP instead of router. It maks alot of difference in the large corporate network.

 

Well, corporate networking is different ball game altogether to be honest. Anyway back to wireless network. I have had my day configuring wifi products and i am convinced that wifi is still overrated. I still recommend people to do cat6 wiring on star topology. Just keep a 802.11n router on dummy AP mode for legacy wifi usage. To be honest, wifi is really meant for convenience in my opinion.

 

802.11n draft 2.0 hasn't quite live up to its reputation of delivering the throughput where it matters. Much of Singapore's urban landscape is littered with WLANs. To achieve 300Mbps, one needs to activate channel bonding i.e. wide band 40MHz mode. Despite the numerous channels 1 to 11, only by staying on 1 or 11 you would be able to achieve minimal interference on 40MHz. Dual band is also quite overhyped. 5Ghz spectrum is only good for short distance. If one is thinking about a nice proper network heatmap, 5GHz will disappoint.

 

Most people ignore the fact that the router wireless signal could be as strong as hell, the Rx sensitivity and Tx output of the client should be robust as well. I recommend no lesser than 2T2R adapters with threshold sensitivity of as low as -90dBm and output Tx power @ 50mW if possible. Even with such configuration my wireless client to wireless client throughput is barely pushing 10Mbps. If one is interested in pushing full HD content around the WLAN, minimum throughput should be no lesser than 20Mbps.

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Neutral Newbie

I am using a Singnet ADSL 2Wire ADSL modem with built in wireless router.

Wireless signal in other rooms are weak. How to boost signal?

 

Simply get a ethernet cable and connect another wlan router?

 

Buy another router with Wireless N (dual fequency). Buffalo is good choice, follow by Linksys or TP-Link

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Neutral Newbie

both mine is mio type, no antenna.

 

let me digest what you just wrote....

 

You are out of luck. Try to buy 1 single Wireless N Router (with ADSL built in) (Dual Frequencies). Buffalo is good, next Linksys or TP-Link.

 

Mio boxes are next to useless when it comes to signals across more than 1 wall.

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You are out of luck. Try to buy 1 single Wireless N Router (with ADSL built in) (Dual Frequencies). Buffalo is good, next Linksys or TP-Link.

 

Mio boxes are next to useless when it comes to signals across more than 1 wall.

initially have this stupid thought...

 

ON the router A if i am using desk top in my children room, then

 

if i need to use lappy, on router B in my room and OFF router A at children room...sound rather silly [:p] , but should work??

 

 

 

In the end,think better get a baffalo

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Neutral Newbie

2wire box is the hardest to configure

 

It is specially designed for Singtel and is quite different from those standard ADSL modem router in the market in the config table.

 

It also lacks of many important features such as DDNS.

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It is specially designed for Singtel and is quite different from those standard ADSL modem router in the market in the config table.

 

It also lacks of many important features such as DDNS.

 

its a mess man.

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Neutral Newbie

initially have this stupid thought...

 

ON the router A if i am using desk top in my children room, then

 

if i need to use lappy, on router B in my room and OFF router A at children room...sound rather silly [:p] , but should work??

 

 

 

In the end,think better get a baffalo

 

Try this one

http://www.aztech.com/sg/homeplug_hl110ew.html

 

you can choose the modem to be in your room or children room, and the extender in the other room. Check if you need to get in a pair.

 

You may need http://www.aztech.com/sg/homeplug_hl110e.html for it to work.

Edited by Shicyj
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i place one router in my children's room but the signal received in my room is a bit weak.

 

as i have another phone line in my room, what will happen it i were to place another router?? Is this a feasible method to strengthen the signal in my room.. [confused]

 

Actually you don't really need 2 router. All you need is high power or high gain wireless adapter.

 

http://www.tp-link.sg/products/?categoryid=215

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