Subaru Levorg

[teomingern]

wah... damn long wait like that... no wonder second hand so fast snapped up...

 

 

not sure about the OMV, any news of the 2.0 is only available from Australia where it is the main model sold for Levorg, they don't even have the 1.6 then (coming to them NEW for 2018 model).

 

 

every replacement $600++ haha you say leh?

New compressor only $600 quite good lor...

[Dna_engine]

Thermostat controls how hard the compressor work. Same for your radiator fan.

 

If thermostat pichar, it will indicate to the compressor that not enough refrigerant. So the compressor will keep pumping and pumping non-stop. A working thermostat will tell the compressor to stop when temperature is reached and sufficient. So the compressor will not need to cut in. Less load on the compressor.

The auto aircon is a bit different, it does not work using the blow-cut cycle like your hone aircon. If ambient is cold

the aircon system makes use of engine radiator heat and circulates it with in cabin to maintain the temperature. With our high humidity weather, the hot moisture air gets into your aircon - mould and algar develops - compressor kaput. All this time the compressor works at the same rate even at different fan speeds. I keep my aircon temp on low or 18 deg, so no hot aircon gets in. If it gets too cold, I just turn the aircon off. My Alfa 159 aircon lasted 9 years and still running fine when I traded it in last year.

 

If you need to repair and not replace your compressor, you can try Tomika at Alexandra Village - they taught me the trick above when I replaced my Passat compressor becoz I use to set my aircon at 23 deg.

[teomingern]

The auto aircon is a bit different, it does not work using the blow-cut cycle like your hone aircon. If ambient is cold

the aircon system makes use of engine radiator heat and circulates it with in cabin to maintain the temperature. With our high humidity weather, the hot moisture air gets into your aircon - mould and algar develops - compressor kaput. All this time the compressor works at the same rate even at different fan speeds. I keep my aircon temp on low or 18 deg, so no hot aircon gets in. If it gets too cold, I just turn the aircon off. My Alfa 159 aircon lasted 9 years and still running fine when I traded it in last year.

 

If you need to repair and not replace your compressor, you can try Tomika at Alexandra Village - they taught me the trick above when I replaced my Passat compressor becoz I use to set my aircon at 23 deg.

Is this true for all car makes and compressors? Cos I can hear the compressor cut off in my old car... it doesn't run continuously leh...

[Dna_engine]

Is this true for all car makes and compressors? Cos I can hear the compressor cut off in my old car... it doesn't run continuously leh...

What you are hearing could be the radiator fan cutting in and out. Car A/C is turned on by a clutch mechanism as described by the para below, the compressor is always on when the clutch is engaged - your A/C on/off button will engage/disengage this A/C clutch. Can verify by simply popping your hood and looking at your compressor with the your engine and A/C on. The compressor will not be on if your engine is off.

 

A/C clutch mechanisms control the transfer of power from the engine to the vehicle's air conditioner using only five simple components. Turning on the car air conditioning in the cabin activates the A/C clutch, which in turn drives the compressor to pump refrigerant through the heat transfer cycle. Generally, the A/C clutch rotor is constantly under load and the output hub permanently attaches the armature to the compressor pump rotor. This allows for the minimal amount of slippage while engaging the friction plates and provides excellent torque transfer efficiency - http://www.ebay.com/gds/Understanding-How-an-AC-Clutch-and-Compressor-Work-/10000000178533123/g.html

[Mkl22]

The auto aircon is a bit different, it does not work using the blow-cut cycle like your hone aircon. If ambient is cold

the aircon system makes use of engine radiator heat and circulates it with in cabin to maintain the temperature. With our high humidity weather, the hot moisture air gets into your aircon - mould and algar develops - compressor kaput. All this time the compressor works at the same rate even at different fan speeds. I keep my aircon temp on low or 18 deg, so no hot aircon gets in. If it gets too cold, I just turn the aircon off. My Alfa 159 aircon lasted 9 years and still running fine when I traded it in last year.

 

If you need to repair and not replace your compressor, you can try Tomika at Alexandra Village - they taught me the trick above when I replaced my Passat compressor becoz I use to set my aircon at 23 deg.

 

are you sure you know what you are talking about? why would the compressor kaput if mould and algae develop? i do not see any link.

 

anyway there are 2 type of compressors. variable and fixed type. the variable is like our home inverter aircon where it pumps less refrigerant if it hits the set temp. yes the heater core is also use to regulate the temp. for the fixed type its either on or off. and most japanese cars uses this thus you can hear the click clack of the magnetic clutch cycling on and off.

 

[Dna_engine]

are you sure you know what you are talking about? why would the compressor kaput if mould and algae develop? i do not see any link.

 

anyway there are 2 type of compressors. variable and fixed type. the variable is like our home inverter aircon where it pumps less refrigerant if it hits the set temp. yes the heater core is also use to regulate the temp. for the fixed type its either on or off. and most japanese cars uses this thus you can hear the click clack of the magnetic clutch cycling on and off.

 

 

Did a bit more research and you are right, there is no link to the algae and mould to compressor failure. That said, my Alfa and E200K compressors have been working fine for the past 9 years when AC set to Lo or 18 deg as recommended by Tomika. My one year old NX200T is currently also running at Lo setting since I got it. Maybe need to verify with Tomika why they ask me to set it on Lo.

[merc280v6]

Firstly, the compressor operates in a closed system ("seeing" only the refrigerant gas-to-liquid) and will never contact air of any kind ... ambient, or otherwise.

 

Recollecting my Uni process control class (the prof was also a PE), it is the thermostat cut in/out cycles - when temperature is set too high (not the other way around) that is usually th root cause of premature aircond compressors failures!

 

Still recall his takeaway statement to us: that if compressor reliability is the primary objective (energy conservation notwithstanding), thermostat settings should be set to as LOW a temperature as possible, for longer MTBFs, and minimising a too-frequent start/stop, cut-in/cut-out of the compressor!

 

I fix mine to the lowest setting (typically 16-18C, depending on car make & model) and adjust the fan only. Switching the internal circulation on/off would help too (depending on road conditions) .... but never in a jam!

[teomingern]

Firstly, the compressor operates in a closed system ("seeing" only the refrigerant gas-to-liquid) and will never contact air of any kind ... ambient, or otherwise.

 

Recollecting my Uni process control class (the prof was also a PE), it is the thermostat cut in/out cycles - when temperature is set too high (not the other way around) that is usually th root cause of premature aircond compressors failures!

 

Still recall his takeaway statement to us: that if compressor reliability is the primary objective (energy conservation notwithstanding), thermostat settings should be set to as LOW a temperature as possible, for longer MTBFs, and minimising a too-frequent start/stop, cut-in/cut-out of the compressor!

 

I fix mine to the lowest setting (typically 16-18C, depending on car make & model) and adjust the fan only. Switching the internal circulation on/off would help too (depending on road conditions) .... but never in a jam!

[Mkl22]

Firstly, the compressor operates in a closed system ("seeing" only the refrigerant gas-to-liquid) and will never contact air of any kind ... ambient, or otherwise.

 

Recollecting my Uni process control class (the prof was also a PE), it is the thermostat cut in/out cycles - when temperature is set too high (not the other way around) that is usually th root cause of premature aircond compressors failures!

 

Still recall his takeaway statement to us: that if compressor reliability is the primary objective (energy conservation notwithstanding), thermostat settings should be set to as LOW a temperature as possible, for longer MTBFs, and minimising a too-frequent start/stop, cut-in/cut-out of the compressor!

 

I fix mine to the lowest setting (typically 16-18C, depending on car make & model) and adjust the fan only. Switching the internal circulation on/off would help too (depending on road conditions) .... but never in a jam! ð

Mercedes uses variable compressor and for homes it’s inverters now where the compressor can vary. So the good old prof’s theory doesn’t really hold that much anymore.

 

http://www.mercedesmedic.com/diagnosing-ac-compressor-clutch-problems-mercedes-benz/

Edited September 23, 2017 by Mkl22

[Columbian78]

Kind of worried to read that it is actually not good for aircon reliability by setting the temp too high which is what I had been doing. Can confirm this is the case for auto climate mode? If not auto then the compressor simple just work on a fixed monotonous level depends on what the temp set?

I never ever switch on the auto or dual mode for my car aircon so it does not keep triggering on and off trying to maintain the set temp. I then adjust the temp and fan level to a setting that is just nice for me. Currently that setting is 28 and fan level 1. Yes, I don't like too cold. Current Car 3 years old maybe still early to gauge the aircon reliability. Previous car no auto climate also similar usage, 7.5 years no aircon maintenance never any issues.

[Mkl22]

Aiyah just drive and use the car as it is. Why over think things? Might as well say that traveling at 60kmh and keeping revs below 2k rpm is the best!

[merc280v6]

Mercedes uses variable compressor and for homes itâs inverters now where the compressor can vary. So the good old profâs theory doesnât really hold that much anymore.

 

http://www.mercedesmedic.com/diagnosing-ac-compressor-clutch-problems-mercedes-benz/

Why you mention Mercedes?

I have a handful of cars, not all Mercs lah!

And definitely not all are VVVF compressors!

 

 

Edited September 23, 2017 by merc280v6

[Mkl22]

Why you mention Mercedes?

I have a handful of cars, not all Mercs lah!

And definitely not all are VVVF compressors!

 

ððð

Errr your nick says Merc?

[merc280v6]

I usually tune my aircon to the temperature where I still feel cool, and that is 22oC on my current ride... I don't feel the compressor cut in and out but that may just be good insulation... I used to do that on my old car (Impreza), about 50% down the blue side of the dial (non-digital climate control), and I used the aircon compressor for 9 years no problem... I think the compressor should be able to take frequent on/off cycles lar...

No different from today's start/stop car engine ... long-term reliability will never be as good!

[teeha]

Anybody got recommended workshop for levorg servicing?

[The_mark]

Anybody got recommended workshop for levorg servicing?

I had the same question months back when planning for my 20k servicing. As advised by fellow forumers, there are a few subaru pro shops around. From what I found, BKS and BMS seem to be the more prominent names. I went to BKS and is cheaper, but most importantly way faster than MI.

[Vidz]

Hi everyone, anyone had any issues with Direct Injection?

 

any carbon build up in the engine valves and crankcase?

[Watwheels]

Hi everyone, anyone had any issues with Direct Injection?

 

any carbon build up in the engine valves and crankcase?

 

Problem with direct fuel injection is where the fuel injector is positioned. Unlike port injection fuel no longer pass thru the air intake valves and "clean" them of the gunk accumulated on the valves. For Toyobaru boxer engine the engineers use both direct fuel injection and port fuel injection in their new engine. At low loads or engine idling speed the port fuel injection will take over.

Pros of such a twin system:

- less polluting dan DFI as DFI has a lot of unburnt fuel at engine idling speeds. Do away with the stupid engine start/stop.

- clean the air intake valves of the gunk accumulation.

- the best of both worlds on DFI and Port fuel injection.

 

Cons

- more fuel injectors to deal with. Can be costly if got problem.

 

 

So the question is where this "gunk" comes from?

The answer is it comes from the PCV return hose, it has a one way valve. Heat in the engine creates engine oil and fuel vapours. They get recirculated back into the engine thru the air intake manifold. When this vapour cools in the air intake system it becomes "gunk" and get accumulated on the air intake valves. It also gets accumulated on your throttle body. If the engine is turbocharged they will be all over your turbo, intercooler, boost sensor and hoses.

 

 

 

 

Car owners for DFI engines will have to peroidically clean the air intake valves coz if they are dirty the car owners will experience unnecessary engine vibrations and excessive engine oil consumption. The valves couldn't fully close during the combustion process and if not addressed it will cause more engine issues.

Edited March 19, 2018 by Watwheels