CAI installation

[Sei_fei_loh]

hmm..

tml i cant make it....

 

maybe on thurs?

i will be arnd west coast park..

u free then?

[Sgguy]

thur i free west coast so far i stay hougang

[Sei_fei_loh]

oohh. no problem..

 

cos i work in changi..

i just need to go west coast at aarnd 9plus..

so wheres the ideal place?

Edited November 6, 2005 by Sei_fei_loh

[Turbonetics]

hello bro. i have done my own CAI. and will be interested to do yours. are you in AT or NA mode? i can try doing it for you. also how much are you willing to spend on CAI?

 

i have done my Mazda3 and will be doing 2 of the same make. IMO simota and other maker of CAI dun really work. try and tested.

 

was doing a drag race with one mazda 3 also.

 

his sedan mod: simota air ram, max velocity light weight pulley, SAFC2, without spare tyre, operated exhaust. (FC 320km per tank filled)

 

my hatch mod: apexi open pod, CAI, SAFC2, operated Exhaust, WITH spare tyre. (FC 460km per tank filled)

 

drag for one traffic light est 300m or less. result: he is 2 car length behind me. and do take note that sedan laden weight is alreally lighter than my hatch.

 

have yet to try other car make. so quite interested to take up challenges. let me know if you are interested. can email me at [email protected] if possible email me a pic of your engine bay too so that i can study it. will take some time to execute cos this is not my salary earning job. i am a designer in other field.

 

also can check this link up. thats my CAI setup. but have further modified liao.

 

http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gforum.cgi...ing=CAI;#892901

 

 

 

bro,just the difference between the intake system won't affect that much on FC and even power in my opinion...

its how the driver drives....

[Sgguy]

or thur after u work finish give mi call i wait at changi village market there.

[Sei_fei_loh]

ok..

everything nt fixed..

will let u noe again..

d: >

[Turbonetics]

cheaper yes. but time consuming also bro.

 

i did my in 3 weeks. as i do it during my free time. also there is a lot to do in DIY. eg. open pod, piping, measuring of max. space available to do. how the air will flow in.

 

actually air flow is as important as exhaust. there are specialist doing exhaust. but no one actually do specialised in air flow intake. just like food. eat good food, out waste if this flow is maintain, you will have healthy lifestyle. if eat junk, you will fall sick same logic. if you intake in not done properly, even if you got good exhaust, it does not matter. but if you are able to do good intake with good output, it will be best performance gain.

 

as the cost wise, material is cost. sourcing the material is also cost not forgetting doing the box and installing. all are time taken. CAI is not just get a hose/pipe and stick it to your filter and called it CAI. the way/how the air flow in must be study, and the length of piping if you are doing open pod have to be tested. too long or short will affect the response on your ride.

 

also if your ride is AT, too much air or too little will also affect the ride, unless yours is MT. so only with the correct air direction, amount of air flow will give you max combustion to optimal your performance and compression within your car. its your own call bro. if you want a cheaper way to do it. get a hose and hook up your resonator. you will get "CAI" but you might be running too lean.

 

 

 

yah...i do agree with what u said...

but how will u know if what car is suitable for the length of pipe and the size of pipe???and where to place the filter and also how shd the curve of pipe be also plays a part in each car...

[Turbonetics]

take a read at this article. if you notice, intake and output are both important

 

Cold Air Induction

 

 

As any chemist knows, the colder that air is, the more dense it is, and denser air will provide more oxygen in any given volume (i.e. inside the engine cylinder), allowing your engine to burn more fuel and generate more power.

 

A common rule of thumb is that decreasing the air intake temperature by 10 degrees F (12.2 degree celcius) will increase horsepower and torque by 1%. The converse is also true. The problem with most stock engine intake systems is that they consist of just a box with a filter located somewhere in the engine bay where it fit. This box justs draws in the hot air from under the car's hood and is probably not in the best place to draw cooler air. Furthermore, they tend to be quite restrictive, in an attempt to reduce underhood noise. Aftermarket "short ram" air intakes (that look like a cone on a pipe) are less restrictive and might provide a few more extra horsepower. However, they suffer from the same problem as stock systems in that they draw in the underhood air.

 

Therefore, they work nicely after the car has been sitting overnight, but actually decrease in performance once the engine (and thus under-hood temperature) heats up. The better aftermarket systems try to locate their intake tip in an area under the engine bay that might have cooler air, such as near the bottom of the car or by the grille. This arrangement helps out by drawing slightly cooler air than that generally found under the hood and thus results in more of a power gain.

 

The only way to solve the problem of hot under-hood air is to get air from somewhere else. The solution is what is called a true cold air induction system, but is commonly called "Ram Air" (Pontiac invented that name). There are two common techniques used by these systems. The first is to draw air from the outside either through holes in the hood, or through openings in the grille into air ducts that channel the air through the air filter and into the carburetor.

 

In almost all cases, the carb is sealed off from getting any air from under the hood. In fact, you can easily stall the engine by covering the holes on the hood or grille that feed the carb because the carb does not receive air from any other means. Oftentimes, the hood vents will actually be scoops or are raised from the rest of the hood, to capture air as it flows over the hood. Performance can be increased if these scoops are at least 1" above the surface of the hood, because the air flows faster than right at the hood's surface. Thus, the air flowing over the hood is "ramed" into the scoops, through the air ducts, and into the engine. While most scoops either point upwards or forward, Chevrolet pioneer their "Cowl Induction" system which featured a backward facing scoop right at the base of the windshield. This scoop actually received air that was forced backwards after hitting the windshield.

 

The second technique is to move the entire air filter & carb assembly out from under the hood. The most common examples are Shaker hoods where the air filter (usually in a protective and decorative cover) physically juts out of the hood through a hole in the hood. Thus, the air is drawn directly from the outside, without having to go through any piping. It is called a Shaker hood because the air filter cover actually can be seen shaking as the engine vibrates. This technique also has a greater benefit the higher off of the hood it is. Most high performance race cars use this technique and, with carb risers, often have intake systems 6" - 10" higher than the rest of the hood.

 

the above information was exerpted from musclecarclub.com

 

 

the stock filter box don't draw air from under the hood...

its draws in cold air also...

but because it is restricted in some ways(like sound and better fc),that is why the performance is not that good...

more on low end power rather than top end compare to SRI....

but if u can repalce a pod filter with its stock filter,it can make good power too...

[Spade]

Gexer, thanks a lot for your great information and advice, I wonder though why you mentioned that Simota is no good. Of course I believe Apexi is great stuff, I also wanted, but just didn't get to buy it as I was not in the area on the day I was on the hunt for an open pod setup. But why is simota any different from Apexi?

[Gexer]

hello bro. i have done my own CAI. and will be interested to do yours. are you in AT or NA mode? i can try doing it for you. also how much are you willing to spend on CAI?

 

i have done my Mazda3 and will be doing 2 of the same make. IMO simota and other maker of CAI dun really work. try and tested.

 

was doing a drag race with one mazda 3 also.

 

his sedan mod: simota air ram, max velocity light weight pulley, SAFC2, without spare tyre, operated exhaust. (FC 320km per tank filled)

 

my hatch mod: apexi open pod, CAI, SAFC2, operated Exhaust, WITH spare tyre. (FC 460km per tank filled)

 

drag for one traffic light est 300m or less. result: he is 2 car length behind me. and do take note that sedan laden weight is alreally lighter than my hatch.

 

have yet to try other car make. so quite interested to take up challenges. let me know if you are interested. can email me at [email protected] if possible email me a pic of your engine bay too so that i can study it. will take some time to execute cos this is not my salary earning job. i am a designer in other field.

 

also can check this link up. thats my CAI setup. but have further modified liao.

 

http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gforum.cgi...ing=CAI;#892901

 

 

 

bro,just the difference between the intake system won't affect that much on FC and even power in my opinion...

its how the driver drives....

 

bro IMO you are half right. the intake will create compression within the engine. and this compression will determine the boost or torque a car can push. if just depend on driver, why ppl mod cars?

 

a stock cars will be tuned rich in A/F to protect the engine. a Leaner Mix will allow more power/compression generating power. usually a 12.8 to 13.1 will be more ideal. so if compare to 14.7 or richer mix, you are saving 1 - 2% of fuel for every ratio mix. thats a saving in Fc liao.

 

if intake is not important, there will not be turbo charged or super charger. these system uses force induction creating pressure with camber.

[Gexer]

cheaper yes. but time consuming also bro.

 

i did my in 3 weeks. as i do it during my free time. also there is a lot to do in DIY. eg. open pod, piping, measuring of max. space available to do. how the air will flow in.

 

actually air flow is as important as exhaust. there are specialist doing exhaust. but no one actually do specialised in air flow intake. just like food. eat good food, out waste if this flow is maintain, you will have healthy lifestyle. if eat junk, you will fall sick same logic. if you intake in not done properly, even if you got good exhaust, it does not matter. but if you are able to do good intake with good output, it will be best performance gain.

 

as the cost wise, material is cost. sourcing the material is also cost not forgetting doing the box and installing. all are time taken. CAI is not just get a hose/pipe and stick it to your filter and called it CAI. the way/how the air flow in must be study, and the length of piping if you are doing open pod have to be tested. too long or short will affect the response on your ride.

 

also if your ride is AT, too much air or too little will also affect the ride, unless yours is MT. so only with the correct air direction, amount of air flow will give you max combustion to optimal your performance and compression within your car. its your own call bro. if you want a cheaper way to do it. get a hose and hook up your resonator. you will get "CAI" but you might be running too lean.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

yah...i do agree with what u said...

but how will u know if what car is suitable for the length of pipe and the size of pipe???and where to place the filter and also how shd the curve of pipe be also plays a part in each car...

 

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

the preferred length is usually a shorter ram. as we do have AFS so we need to know much much to cut the pipe connect the pod to the AFS. if too near or too far, the effect will be different. the CEL will led if the flow is not registed correctly by the AFS. so the placement of the AFS is important. also the lenght within the pipe will determine the route to reach the throttle body. too long may result low pressure within the pipeline.

 

the placement of the filter is important mainly on the curves of the hose. the angle is very important. too angluar will hinder the air flow. there is a best/max bend you can do with hose or pipe. just like exhaust. a mandriel bend pipe will have lesser air flow resistance. the selection of the air hose is also important. there are different types of hose around in the market. some are good some are not.

 

even the type of filter will have different effect. high flow (stainless steel or sponge type) mid flow (paper/fibre type) they have their own different characters to suit different needs. some are good for MT some are better for AT. so have to pick the right choice.

[Gexer]

the stock filter box don't draw air from under the hood...

its draws in cold air also...

but because it is restricted in some ways(like sound and better fc),that is why the performance is not that good...

more on low end power rather than top end compare to SRI....

but if u can repalce a pod filter with its stock filter,it can make good power too...

 

 

------------------------------------------------------------------

 

the stock filter draw air, maybe cold air. but:-

 

1) it have open directly to engine thus sucking in hot air from the heat of the engine. you can check your ride from filter to the inlet of your "STOCK CAI" place your hand just in front of the outlet and feel if the air it hot after a few runs. and imagine your engine in high speed is like a giant vaccum machine. it have suction power. so you think you are still getting cool air?

2) they are not having better FC cos the ecu still reads at 14.7 - 1 % standard AF mix. so without a good combustion, your fuel with have unburn portion resulting waste of power.

3) yes they are restrictive, so restriting air flow. how to run with your mouth covered?

not all stock cars are good in low end. usually they are good in high end. as high ends are easily to acheive. thats is why ppl are having a hard time to gain low end.

4) stock usually comes with 4-1 rather than 4-2-1 so thats high end for stock setup rather than low end. but that does not imply to all cars. like my, my is a 4-1 and i am able to acheive low end with my setup.

5)stock cars like i said is tuned rich to protect the engine lifespan(warranty issue) so they will be sluggish even in you floor your car. the engine will be louder than the speed gain. you can try to know.the response rate is also slower

6)stock filter are usually there to lower the sound of intake. but all in all restrictive. try running with a sheet of cloth covering your mouth and a paper covering your mouth. which one breath better?

7)open pod will give better flow. they are called the high flow filter. but that does not mean that it is good for all cars. try installing one into an AT car. your low end will suffer. but if you throw that into MT cars, you might have perrformance gain. but there are ways to fix a open pod into a AT cars without losing low end. this is what i have in my setup.

 

exhaust

1) bigger dont mean better. if you are driving AT. you try with a 4-2-1, high flow cat, + pipe at 3". you will throw your car away. but this will be different if fix on MT cars. but 3" is still way to huge for NA cars. turbo or super charged will be another story.

 

so what we need in NA cars is to understand how and what to do to get the compression within. vacuum or boost. any small leak will result a different gain. and my CAI is also done with the study of force induction. how to compress the air and build up before the throttle body. and ready to boost whenever the throttle opens.

[Felixkoh]

Hi Gexer,

 

Do you know to get a good hose for the CAI?

Please advice.

 

Felix

[Gexer]

somewhere in jalan besah have. i think block 31 or 27. a corner shop.

[Felixkoh]

Any idea what the shop name?

[Gexer]

this i am not very sure. know where is it nia. paisay

[Gexer]

to all who are interested, here is my dyno result after my CAI in comparasion to a fully stock text. the yellow is mine, the blue is a stock result.

 

have got the costing for doing up this setup. if you are interested, please drop me a mail at [email protected] or 91913533.

[Spade]

hi gexer,

 

so is apexi better than simota?