Come on in if you are into cheap engine oils...

[Tigershark1976]

alamak i didnt know so troublesome... thought it was a 1 time affair...

 

manual gearbox also got debate... i change twice liao now so far am at almost 70k soon...

 

my friend listens to those 'older' mech and he has not changed his gearbox oil for 4-5 years... no joke...

 

 

no lah, not troublesome... maybe i describe until too complicated... its so easy that even a lady could do it herself.... simply draw out the PS fluid and fill back with fresh fluid...

 

for manual gear oil, its true that manual gear box built to last... my father sunny drove for 10 yrs without changing gearoil at all.. b4 scrapping it off, then nonly start to have problem, the 5th gear keep "jumping" to neutral gear.. so long replace the oil within 50K interval, its actually very save.

[Tigershark1976]

Ex-colleague road-tested locally with engine flushing oil

 

 

road tested with engine flushing oil?? what do you mean? added those flushing oil and drive his car on the road before flushing it out?

[Tigershark1976]

well some older workshop guys said not to flush brake fluid. no need to do one. or flush power steering fluid, just top up can already.

 

you believe?

 

 

yah man... even my mech, very knowledgeble & reliable type also tell me dont need to bleed brake oil... argue until cow go home also dont want to do for me cos he think its not professional to do this type of "conman" work...

 

those old bird mech always believe that if aint spoil, dont fix it... only thing need to maintain/ replace for car are tyre, brake pad, batt and engine oil..

[Ken4555]

can change the power steering fluid. use tiger's method or if you want to be faster jack up the front wheels and disconnect the hoses. then turn the steering left to right a few times to pump out all the old oil. connect back the hoses and then add fresh fluid and also do the same left to right to clear the air in the hoses and rack. method 2 is 100% flush. but kinda messy.

 

for a/c up to you. but i feel if its cold then leave it. compressors can conk for other reasons also not just because oil is dirty. main issue of a/c failure is due to lack of a a/c filter and then you switch to using outside air. this results in little dried leaves getting sucked into the condenser and with moisture it becomes and weak acid and eats the coil. so dun itchy itchy switch to outside air if you do not have a filter.

 

the more i read the i get...........................

[Ken4555]

yah man... even my mech, very knowledgeble & reliable type also tell me dont need to bleed brake oil... argue until cow go home also dont want to do for me cos he think its not professional to do this type of "conman" work...

 

those old bird mech always believe that if aint spoil, dont fix it... only thing need to maintain/ replace for car are tyre, brake pad, batt and engine oil..

 

yes yes... old mech have different theroies on car maintanience....

 

old car should put just water for the radiator...

 

gear oil no need change one...

 

well... i guess there is some truth to some... maybe damage is not seen early enuf...

[Good-Carbuyer]

It doesnt matter what the workshop thinks. Its our car not theirs.

 

A lot of workshop do not know what they are doing anyway.

 

I asked for a complete radiator flush and they just drain the coolent

in the radiator and did not know there is coolent in the engine block!

 

Actually they did not know there is coolent in the reservior also. JB workshop.

 

They just learn from seeing what other mechanics do and follow and not

from the principles of engineering.

 

I agree with Ken,

 

it is better to change oil every 5k and oil filter every 10k

than filter every 5k and oil every 10k.

 

Also if I have an engine with sludge, I would buy the cheapest

mineral oil and change the oil every 500 miles and get the gunk

out a bit at a time

 

rather than do an engine flush and try to dislodge every time in one go

and choke the engine.

 

But thats just me, if other people have other ways, its their cars to try.

 

(I just saw Tigershark post about OC every 1000km instead of flush and I completely

agree with that too.)

 

Can share how you got into such procedure?

 

So far only one workshop got it right for me:

flush engine after draining the expired engine oil

replemish with engine flushing oil and run engine till warmed up temperature, stopped engine

replace with new oil filter and replenish with new engine oil

 

For engine obviously already with sludge as the expired engine oil is being drained:

flush with engine flushing oil at least twice. Each time after driving a distance with the engine flushing oil, at least an hour to allow the sludge to be dissolved for flushing out later (ever witnessed grease-like discharge during repeated flushing procedures)

[Good-Carbuyer]

yes yes... old mech have different theroies on car maintanience....

 

old car should put just water for the radiator...

 

gear oil no need change one...

 

well... i guess there is some truth to some... maybe damage is not seen early enuf...

 

Old Mechanics poorer? New Mechanics must change more and frequently for more business?

Customers happy, Mechanics happy (automatic transmission gear oil needs frequent replenishment or you soon replace the whole automatic transmission gearbox), you happy, Mechanics happy

Edited August 19, 2010 by Good-Carbuyer

[Yuan]

well some older workshop guys said not to flush brake fluid. no need to do one. or flush power steering fluid, just top up can already.

 

you believe?

 

Ideally, brake fluid needs to be changed once a year or 2 years to remove moisture from our frequent start stop traffic conditions in Singapore. This is to keep the brake system optimally functional.

 

Changing of power steering fluid only occurs as stipulated in the service manual, usually in the major servicing intervals such as 40k or 80k mileage.

[Yuan]

I very well believe that. They don't understand chemistry and that brake fluid absorbs water

 

which will lower the boiling point and that means the brakes will heat up faster and

 

be less responsive. The last thing you wann have is fading brakes!

 

Precisely.

[Yuan]

thanks bro thats what i thought... cause at 40k my car was overshot the years part... you get wat i mean?... like an under driven car

 

but just drain out and replace new fluid or must flush out totally the old one...

 

As you had taken over the car midway through its mileage from a previous owner, it is good to change the power steering fluid, if not, also the brake fluid, and do a complete change.

[Ken4555]

As you had taken over the car midway through its mileage from a previous owner, it is good to change the power steering fluid, if not, also the brake fluid, and do a complete change.

 

brake fuild new caus egot my new brake set this Jan...

 

power steering fluid i see like dont even need to top up... so think its about time to service...

 

by the way my BC is coming to a year soon... when slow moving in the mornings out of my carpark got squeeky sound... sob sob... dont know if its the joints, or springs, or wat....

 

i remember you said you adjusted your hardness and sounds started coming up am i correct?

 

cause i wanna lower 2-3 turns more and harden abit more. and presently at the middle settings... was it 16 turns or 32 turns?? have to go look for the coil manual... cause i dont wanna turn to softest then start turning... or should i???

 

advice pls sir...

[Robinyip]

now carrefour still got the $19.90 vx engine oil? need to stock up.

[Tianmo]

:angry: .... you then mad ah...

 

actually, the only reason i dont change filter at 5k is because DIY without filter change very fast...

 

my logic i use to convince myself... might be wrong of course...

 

1) brand new filter = 100% flow rate...

2) used 5k filter = 50% flow rate... due to dirt above 20microns...

3) used 10k filter = nearing end of life...

 

so halfway during the lifespan of the oil filter at 5k... instead of hving another 5k of dirty oil going through it, because i changed new oil, the used 5k oil filter is now having instead, another 5k of NEW oil going through it...

 

so logically, changing the filter at 5k is wasting a filter... BUT changing an oil at 5k, though it can last till 10k, a new oil is better, smoother, shiok to drive... but a new filter will provide no such thing...

 

keke

 

 

ok ok I mad i mad!

 

happy teo ho!

[Yuan]

ok ok I mad i mad!

 

happy teo ho!

 

Why you so fast surrender?

[Yuan]

brake fuild new caus egot my new brake set this Jan...

 

power steering fluid i see like dont even need to top up... so think its about time to service...

 

by the way my BC is coming to a year soon... when slow moving in the mornings out of my carpark got squeeky sound... sob sob... dont know if its the joints, or springs, or wat....

 

i remember you said you adjusted your hardness and sounds started coming up am i correct?

 

cause i wanna lower 2-3 turns more and harden abit more. and presently at the middle settings... was it 16 turns or 32 turns?? have to go look for the coil manual... cause i dont wanna turn to softest then start turning... or should i???

 

advice pls sir...

 

Mine initially after adjustment has sound but sent back to my mechanic and then he adjusted it. No more sound after that.

 

Advisable you send to your trusted mechanic for a check.

[Ken4555]

now carrefour still got the $19.90 vx engine oil? need to stock up.

 

i never had the luck to see it at $19.90... always $20+

 

think more worth to get C@rlube at Giant... but i feel good with VX also...

 

my butt dyno faulty i think... haahahah...

[Ken4555]

Mine initially after adjustment has sound but sent back to my mechanic and then he adjusted it. No more sound after that.

 

Advisable you send to your trusted mechanic for a check.

 

where u got ur BCs? not RTES?

 

i would like to visit your mech that got rid of the sound....

Edited August 20, 2010 by Ken4555

[GemLeo]

brake fuild new caus egot my new brake set this Jan...

 

power steering fluid i see like dont even need to top up... so think its about time to service...

 

by the way my BC is coming to a year soon... when slow moving in the mornings out of my carpark got squeeky sound... sob sob... dont know if its the joints, or springs, or wat....

 

i remember you said you adjusted your hardness and sounds started coming up am i correct?

 

cause i wanna lower 2-3 turns more and harden abit more. and presently at the middle settings... was it 16 turns or 32 turns?? have to go look for the coil manual... cause i dont wanna turn to softest then start turning... or should i???

 

advice pls sir...

 

Hi bro,

 

Don't mind me asking. When you say squeeky sounds.. does it occur when you step brake pedal?

 

I keep hearing mind when steeping the brake pedal. Confirm can hear when going down slopes. Sometimes at traffic stops, when releasing pedal. It sounds like some rusty joints ..

 

Cheers