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Battery indicator, what can be wrong?


Windwaver
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Ya when u return, chk if yr car can take the Dot 4 u put in first. If cannot, u need to flush the whole brake fluid out.

 

Anyway I think u never done that b4, right? Well then its about time. [laugh]

 

Brakefluid if left too long wil absorb moisture n cause it to b ineffective like poor pedal feel or spongy. Also the moisture can cause the metal components to rust then leak.

 

I jiak luk lar, next day I saw cap state dot 3 but I refill a bit

Yup will go Ws once back see how

Now I china xmm alot man

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I jiak luk lar, next day I saw cap state dot 3 but I refill a bit

Yup will go Ws once back see how

Now I china xmm alot man

 

 

Yr ws also tell u DOT 4 no problem. [shakehead]

 

U do yr own research first on the Dot 4 b4 u go back to ws. Wait ty throw smoke at u also u dun know. [flowerface][laugh]

 

Just make sure yr car can take the Dot 4 u put in. If cannot.....get yr stupid ws to do a through flush of yr brake fluid n put in the correct fluid.

 

I never just listen to what a mech tell me cos I know many mech r very ignorant about the cars ty r working on n wil anyhow huntum tell u this n that which is mostly bullsheet.

 

Thats why when I go ws, the mech might try to BS me at first but when he see I am not like those ignorant drivers, he wun try it again. Otherwise I wil give him a piece of my mind n make him look stoopid in front of everyone.

 

I encounter many mechs wil BS me to change this n that but when I question him further, he know cannot bluff this farker n wil keep quiet. [lipsrsealed]

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I jiak luk lar, next day I saw cap state dot 3 but I refill a bit

Yup will go Ws once back see how

Now I china xmm alot man

 

 

U dun like XMM hor. I just reminding u ok. U stick with yr MILFs lah. Or now u changed yr taste so fast? Hahaha. [laugh]

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I jiak luk lar, next day I saw cap state dot 3 but I refill a bit

Yup will go Ws once back see how

Now I china xmm alot man

 

Dot 3 and 4 are ok. They are compatible.

Only 4 starts with higher boiling temp.

 

Some people "downgrade" to Dot 3, bcuz it absorbs less moisture.

 

So in the end, a Dot 3 having a lower boiling temp, may be better than Dot 4, although they started off with Dot 4 being "better"

 

Anyways, brake fluid should always be replaced regularly bcuz of this.

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Dot 3 and 4 are ok. They are compatible.

Only 4 starts with higher boiling temp.

 

Some people "downgrade" to Dot 3, bcuz it absorbs less moisture.

 

So in the end, a Dot 3 having a lower boiling temp, may be better than Dot 4, although they started off with Dot 4 being "better"

 

Anyways, brake fluid should always be replaced regularly bcuz of this.

 

 

I hv read reports where Dot 4 has 2 types n 1 is not compatable with other brake fluids.

 

U can use it but must flush out all the old brake fluid first.

 

Dot 5 seems is compatable with Dot 3.

 

I prefer to stick with what is recommended in my handbook.

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I hv read reports where Dot 4 has 2 types n 1 is not compatable with other brake fluids.

 

U can use it but must flush out all the old brake fluid first.

 

Dot 5 seems is compatable with Dot 3.

 

I prefer to stick with what is recommended in my handbook.

 

I think you got it mixed up.

Dot 3, 4, 5.1 are glycol based, so they are compatible to mix.

Dot 5 is silicon based, no-no to mixing. :D

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I think you got it mixed up.

Dot 3, 4, 5.1 are glycol based, so they are compatible to mix.

Dot 5 is silicon based, no-no to mixing. :D

 

 

Oh OK. Maybe u r right cos I read it many years back.

 

But I do know one type is not compatable with the rest.

 

Ya I think u r correct then. Glycol n silicon based. It rings a bell. [nod]

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I jiak luk lar, next day I saw cap state dot 3 but I refill a bit

Yup will go Ws once back see how

Now I china xmm alot man

 

 

OK my mistake.

 

U read the post by Kb27 above sud b correct.

 

3,4 n 5.1 r compatable. Gylcol based.

 

Dot 5 cannot mix with these. Silicon based.

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I had this MF batt, green window means healthy. Mine was green 3yo liao, really?

 

Take this indicator with a pinch of a salt. Mine was green when it refused to start one morning. [bigcry]

 

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Take this indicator with a pinch of a salt. Mine was green when it refused to start one morning. [bigcry]

 

After how long? Mine still crank twice n start. Normal so still holding on. 4 more years to go. So hope to get one 6 months later to last another 3.5 years to last till COE.

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After how long? Mine still crank twice n start. Normal so still holding on. 4 more years to go. So hope to get one 6 months later to last another 3.5 years to last till COE.

 

15 months. But, my ride is known to be a heavy electricity sucker. [laugh]

 

For basic Jap cars, it can last and last and last.

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Take this indicator with a pinch of a salt. Mine was green when it refused to start one morning. [bigcry]

 

Stand alone multimeter or battery checker is more accurate than some of these indicators.

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Take this indicator with a pinch of a salt. Mine was green when it refused to start one morning. [bigcry]

 

The indicator is a small ball floating in a cheap plastic tube.

It functions like a cheap hydrometer checking acid concentration.

If the concentration is low like when a battery is fully discharged, it sinks to the bottom and the colour "changes".

 

It's also placed in 1 out of 6 cells of a battery. So you can't tell the conditions of the other cells.

 

The ball is sometimes "sticky" and does not move much, unless you shake the battery a bit.

 

Even if it's showing green (fully-charged in that cell), the acid concentration may be at a "low" point, meaning it does not produce enough juice to turnover the engine.

 

So you may have a voltmeter reading 12.6V and a green indicator, but the bad battery won't turnover the engine.

 

So yeah, don't bet your life savings on that indicator. :D

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Do you all constantly measure your battery with volt meter?

 

If I don't have volt meter, how do I tell when to change my battery?

 

Can I change when I start to need to crank twice? Will it be too late?

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