Jump to content

My engine after 150,000 kms


Ncp91
 Share

Recommended Posts

That part of e engine is sprayed wh oil as e camshaft spins n oil is splashing around in there. U try to open e oil filler cap when engine is running then u know.

 

Early engines used cork gaskets but now i see all r rubber. Maybe its silicon rubber so oil dun affect it.

 

Oh ok. To me, manifold gasket refers to the exhaust or intake manifold gasket. Which shouldn't come in contact with oil.

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

That's very inexpensive, I'd a fren who drives a jap ride changed at agent for 100plus last year.

 

Wc workshop is that? The mech knows the sequence of fastening n torquing right? U have the specs?

 

One of the workshops in AMK Autopoint. Honestly they had put the cover back on quite quickly so I can't be sure if they done it in the right sequence and torque or not. I guess I'll find out if my engine bay continues to be oily. But they've been a very good workshop to me and I assume they will put things right if something went wrong.

Link to post
Share on other sites

What type of engine oil did you usually used? do you stick to 1 brand or try out a lot of brand?

 

With exception of once or twice using Shell Helix Ultra, I have been using Carlu

Link to post
Share on other sites

$50 fitted. I don't know how much the part itself cost though.

 

Very good price. The one I went to quoted $80, and I wonder how much work really goes into unscrewing the valve cover, replace the seal, and screwing back the cover? They also charge $35 just to change the brakepad when the service package includes wheel rotation/balancing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

One of the workshops in AMK Autopoint. Honestly they had put the cover back on quite quickly so I can't be sure if they done it in the right sequence and torque or not. I guess I'll find out if my engine bay continues to be oily. But they've been a very good workshop to me and I assume they will put things right if something went wrong.

 

 

Well if u wan just open up e top screws/nuts securing e manifold cover u see it u can lift it up easily n chk if e gasket is sitting properly n put cover back n tighten e screws/nuts finger tight then tighten fron center out.

 

But if u dun hv liquid gasket.. then not advisable to open up.

 

When e mech put mine back i was there making sure everything was done properly.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very good price. The one I went to quoted $80, and I wonder how much work really goes into unscrewing the valve cover, replace the seal, and screwing back the cover? They also charge $35 just to change the brakepad when the service package includes wheel rotation/balancing.

 

 

Even a simple job of replacing e manifold gasket if not done properly wil fail prematurely.

 

I stand there n make sure its done according to specs cos some mechs can b really lazy or incomptent.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya maybe cos i know c@rlube triple r is a good oil. I using it fr maybe >10 yrs ever since it 1st started selling in SG.

 

Also cud b his ws dun hv this oil so he try to trick me into using some of e crappy oils he do have. Hahaha.

 

But seems funny other kaki here also use c@rlube n hv manifold gasket leak? Maybe it contains something that eats e rubber gasket?

Manifold gasket leak is due to another issue not related to oil quality.

 

I also have good experience withc@rlube Triple R. Only the red sticker 5L pack is cheap. The rest are not.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

What is your ride? How old is your ride when it hits 150,000km?

 

Six years old... my car still returns 13km/litre FC on mostly urban driving. No engine mods and normal OEM paper air filter.

 

I never did any engine flush or funny stuff. Just regular servicing. Purpose of posting this is to show a normally maintained Toyota engine after 150,000kms with a budget brand of engine oil.

  • Praise 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Manifold gasket leak is due to another issue not related to oil quality.

 

I also have good experience withc@rlube Triple R. Only the red sticker 5L pack is cheap. The rest are not.

 

In my Optra, c-----e is not suitable because my engine cover gasket leaks soon after.

Gasket will leak but I have less issues with other EO.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

In my Optra, c-----e is not suitable because my engine cover gasket leaks soon after.

Gasket will leak but I have less issues with other EO.

 

Ya my optra also quite fast it leak. I just chng gasket few months back n now monitor again. I also use c@rlube.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya my optra also quite fast it leak. I just chng gasket few months back n now monitor again. I also use c@rlube.

 

Optra is an oil killer. [laugh]

Edited by Kklee
Link to post
Share on other sites

Get your mech to check the positive crankcase breather system, if the valve is partial or fully stuck the engine block by pass pressure will built up and over time will cause leakage to cyl head cover gasket but serious damage engine crankshaft end seals and oil sump gasket.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Most engine is driven normally, example normal pickup, will last very long.. and if change oil regularly at notore than 15000km interval or not less than once every year should last very long. Most engine and gearbox failure usually caused by driver driving a small engine car like a race car

Link to post
Share on other sites

Different car different. I would think that most normal cars usually don't have two cooling fans with alternator output at about 14.6V.

Edited by Kklee
Link to post
Share on other sites

<snip>I never did any engine flush or funny stuff. Just regular servicing. Purpose of posting this is to show a normally maintained Toyota engine after 150,000kms with a budget brand of engine oil.

 

[thumbsup] [thumbsup]

Link to post
Share on other sites

My last car's (Hyundai) rocker cover gasket leaks at 200,000km. Carloobe user too.

 

I bought a new gasket from stockist at $10 and changed it at the car park, spent most of the time cleaning the mating surfaces and mess caused by the leakage. Got a backache due to prolonged bending of my back when doing it.

 

Yes, I torqued the bolts to 10Nm as per the service manual.

 

If a mechanic can perform the same level of attention to details, I will not hesitate to pay $100 for the labour charge because of the backache.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

My last car's (Hyundai) rocker cover gasket leaks at 200,000km. Carloobe user too.

 

I bought a new gasket from stockist at $10 and changed it at the car park, spent most of the time cleaning the mating surfaces and mess caused by the leakage. Got a backache due to prolonged bending of my back when doing it.

 

Yes, I torqued the bolts to 10Nm as per the service manual.

 

If a mechanic can perform the same level of attention to details, I will not hesitate to pay $100 for the labour charge because of the backache.

 

Yes its very important to get e two surfaces super clean. Remove all dirt n rubber fm e old liquid gasket fr a good seal.

 

U mean u never used any liquid gasket when u diy replaced it?

 

So u use c@rlube n it did NOT cause premature failure of e gasket?

Then it confirmes that c@rlube oil dun damage e rubber gasket. [:)]

 

ps: u sud hv used a razor blade to scrape off e gunk fm e two surfaces. Much easier like that.

Edited by Pisces69
↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...