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Audi A4 from 159K


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i think u see them too up...

 

the way i see it...seeing new a4, it should not be too much diff from existing one..then based on a4, can predicct a5,a6,a7,a8,r8,a1,a3

 

 

wheres a2?!!

Haa... The way conti car brands design and name their fleet of cars resembles Uniglo T shirts - same design and comes in XS, S, M, L and for egoistic Chinese market XL (cf Jag XJ-L)

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Haa... The way conti car brands design and name their fleet of cars resembles Uniglo T shirts - same design and comes in XS, S, M, L and for egoistic Chinese market XL (cf Jag XJ-L)

 

It is the trend for car industry. Few models using same platform, change the design a bit but build with different level of features.

If they adopt different platform and design for each model, then the car will be very costly and life span will be longer as well to recover the R&D cost.

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Normally, we consider depreciation based on purchase cost - PARF value (at the end of 10th year) /10 yrs

For new Audi, simply 157k - 14k = 14.3k per year.

 

Currently a lot of used car are over price (mean depreciation are higher than new Audi).

Why?? because ppl dont need to pay so much DP.

The current new facelift model has most beautiful LED light plus latest engine with 170hps and 320NM. before 2012 only 160hps.

 

My suggestion to you:

(1) If you can get more than 30k cash after settled outstanding loan then you can consider to change but prepare another 30k for DP (need total 60k for DP)

(2) Since your car already 6 years, so continue drive until end of live. The COE will be in high supply in next 4 years so you can consider scrap the car and get at least 8k by end of 10th years, then topup whatever amount to buy the Audi car (if you still like Audi)

 

Thanks for your constructive response J. (2) is a consideration for me. The ride now is alright. If I want to chiong, just press "S", the 2.0L CVT speeds up acceptably swift to leave many cars in the wind. Pls elaborate on the "scrap the car and get at least 8k by end of 10th years". Will I get only 8K and nothing else when I scrap? What about the OMV? Sorry to digress from this thread.

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Thanks for your constructive response J. (2) is a consideration for me. The ride now is alright. If I want to chiong, just press "S", the 2.0L CVT speeds up acceptably swift to leave many cars in the wind. Pls elaborate on the "scrap the car and get at least 8k by end of 10th years". Will I get only 8K and nothing else when I scrap? What about the OMV? Sorry to digress from this thread.

 

You can get back max 50% OMV from government by end of 10 years.

At the time, your COE already end so nothing left.

Body value consider zero, unless any dealer love to pay u money to help u scrap the car.

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Supercharged

Body value consider zero

 

body at least a few hundred for the parts and metal,

more if the car is popular thus have demand for its parts...

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since now promo price of a4 is $159K anybody knows whats the promo rates for A5 saloon..

 

first and foremost, must know the variants of the car u buying.

 

like for example, a5 is sportback or coupe or cabriolet, no saloon. If u saying the 4 door, then sportback coz the shape.

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first and foremost, must know the variants of the car u buying.

 

like for example, a5 is sportback or coupe or cabriolet, no saloon. If u saying the 4 door, then sportback coz the shape.

 

a5 is sportback, with the cheapest engine.. how much is the promotional price now?

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Hypersonic

 

a5 is sportback, with the cheapest engine.. how much is the promotional price now?

Why can't you just call the dealer and ask.

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Supercharged

 

My paper value after 5 years got 58k, if body can sell 10-15k i can have 70k above easily.

 

My current A4 cost me only 130k because i sold my old ride at original price and get back whatever i paid ($30k +) due to higher COE price now. In normal circumstance i should only 2-3k back because my loan tenure is 8years and 90% loan.

 

Therefore my cost only 60k for 5 years, each year only 12k.

 

If you buy a new car at 120k, the yearly depreciation also very close.

 

Therefore why not!!!

Your current Audi cost you 160K. End of. It does not matter that you get 30K from selling your Altis. If you sold a second hand Ferrari for 160K it does not mean your A4 is now free.

 

I tell you what is a good deal. If I see the COE dips big time and a two year old A4 is available for 75K and can be scrapped for 58K. That is a good deal.

 

😊😀😁

😊

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the new pricing for A4 is 159k after all the discounts from trade-ins and taking up of loan but the car now doesn't come with all the (good to have) gadgets like rear aircon vents, gps and etc.

 

Guys, what's your view in terms buying a conti vehicle from PI versus AD? considering getting conti cars from PI.

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(edited)

a few big tip to buy from PI

 

1. must compare spec to spec vs AD car especially OMV

 

2. best is only buy ready stock. PI can take 4-5 months to deliver car. by that time coe yo-yo up-down how many times liao

 

3. buy from big and reputable PI and double triple quadruple check the warranty and workshop. else PI or workshop close shop before you know it.

 

4. everything must be black and white as per what agreed . even a comma or dot must be on paper else later nose argue with mouth. double confirmed.

 

5. buy from PI must save at least $20k and above if not buy from AD is better. why take high risk and hassle to save a few Ks?

Edited by Wt_know
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a few big tip to buy from PI

 

1. must compare spec to spec vs AD car especially OMV

 

2. best is only buy ready stock. PI can take 4-5 months to deliver car. by that time coe yo-yo up-down how many times liao

 

3. buy from big and reputable PI and double triple quadruple check the warranty and workshop. else PI or workshop close shop before you know it.

 

4. everything must be black and white as per what agreed . even a comma or dot must be on paper else later nose argue with mouth. double confirmed.

 

5. buy from PI must save at least $20k and above if not buy from AD is better. why take high risk and hassle to save a few Ks?

 

do you have any PI to recommend. Is it true that you can't go back to the agent (AD) for any warranty or servicing if the PI were to close down?

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(edited)

the new pricing for A4 is 159k after all the discounts from trade-ins and taking up of loan but the car now doesn't come with all the (good to have) gadgets like rear aircon vents, gps and etc.

 

Guys, what's your view in terms buying a conti vehicle from PI versus AD? considering getting conti cars from PI.

Min 20k cheaper than AD is a must

Reputed PI is important eg. VinCar, Cartimes & Leco is a must too for continental cars

You need to do your home work on the specs too & OMV plays a important part in the final car price.

 

do you have any PI to recommend. Is it true that you can't go back to the agent (AD) for any warranty or servicing if the PI were to close down?

Eg... Vincar is using MBM wheel power as their warranty or servicing center.

Quite a numbers of AD car owner going to MBM wheel power after 3 years warranty is up

Both are reputed companys in their respective industry...

 

PI cars can go AD... but up front need to pay 15 or 20k... before any repair

Edited by Mcist
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(edited)

if buy PI car no point to go back to AD for repair

since already save $20k upfront ... just repair outside

anyway audi a4 is an old model ... outside workshop should be very familiar with this model liao

 

PI cars can go AD... but up front need to pay 15 or 20k... before any repair

 

 

can try vincar ... even for big and reputable PI ... i will still choose to buy ready stock car

unless the PI already have a stock coming in less than 2 months

put everything in black and white ... less than 2 months must deliver ... else penalty or can walk away immediately

if PI making a new order ... it takes time and if anything longer than 2 months ... i don't want to wait

 

do you have any PI to recommend. Is it true that you can't go back to the agent (AD) for any warranty or servicing if the PI were to close down?

 

Edited by Wt_know
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Supercharged

 

can try vincar ... even for big and reputable PI ... i will still choose to buy ready stock car

 

 

Even a big and reputable company also have to be careful....just ask Five Stars...oops not around anymore :(

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Your current Audi cost you 160K. End of. It does not matter that you get 30K from selling your Altis. If you sold a second hand Ferrari for 160K it does not mean your A4 is now free.

 

I tell you what is a good deal. If I see the COE dips big time and a two year old A4 is available for 75K and can be scrapped for 58K. That is a good deal.

 

😊😀😁

😊

Lol, good things worth waiting

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