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Mitsubishi Attrage.


Cheesey74
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Green light means engine have not reach its ideal operating temp for best efficiency, that all. 

it will goes off faster if you drive off normally rather than wait for it which means waste fuel and environment unfriendly.

nowaday, car do not need warm up, just drive slow and normal with no sudden accel until light off.

 

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Can i check whats the recommended tyre pressure for attrage tyres? Mines OPC and i only drive on weekends. Seems like i can only go about 420km on a full tank. Must i always check pressure on weekends since the car is left idle most if the time?

 

420km on full tank? That is bad.....

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is it common at high speed when depressing the brake you hear a ringing sound and the car vibrates intermittently ( 1 week)  but in terms of FC its goood!!

 

Anyone has any experience on why the low collent light (green) is one when doing a cold start ? is it very common .. i suppose i cna drive off right? i waiting like 10mins before it went away.. :(  i last check it means the car is still "cold" 

 

I too experience the ringing sound when braking, but I find to be more of a squealing sound coming from the rear brakes. I had highlighted this problem to the service advisors so many times, but they don't seem to solve it for me. After they try to "fix" it, the sound comes back after 10-20km of driving. Anybody else facing this problem or have any solutions?

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I too experience the ringing sound when braking, but I find to be more of a squealing sound coming from the rear brakes. I had highlighted this problem to the service advisors so many times, but they don't seem to solve it for me. After they try to "fix" it, the sound comes back after 10-20km of driving. Anybody else facing this problem or have any solutions?

 

exactly.. a colleague of mine also get this sound is like something cutting on the disc brakes. yes squealing sound.. i think i read somewhere there are debris inside the brake that caused it but it is irrtating as hell.. somemore i drove it or 1 week only... any one any ideas or help?

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Can i check whats the recommended tyre pressure for attrage tyres? Mines OPC and i only drive on weekends. Seems like i can only go about 420km on a full tank. Must i always check pressure on weekends since the car is left idle most if the time?

Check your car door sill for the recommended pressure and increase by another 2 to 3 PSI. Will probably help in negating the issue of tyre flat spot too.
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is it common at high speed when depressing the brake you hear a ringing sound and the car vibrates intermittently ( 1 week) but in terms of FC its goood!!

 

Anyone has any experience on why the low collent light (green) is one when doing a cold start ? is it very common .. i suppose i cna drive off right? i waiting like 10mins before it went away.. :( i last check it means the car is still "cold"

Should not have squealing sound. Mine doesn’t have this. Unless they updated the brake pad compound causing the squeal. When you say the car vibrates intermittently is it the steering wheel that vibrates when you braked?

 

The coolant light is to tell that the water temperature haven’t reach it’s operating temperature. You can drive off no need to wait.. just wasting petrol if you waited. Usually by the time I am out of the carpark the light goes off.

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Can i check whats the recommended tyre pressure for attrage tyres? Mines OPC and i only drive on weekends. Seems like i can only go about 420km on a full tank. Must i always check pressure on weekends since the car is left idle most if the time?

420km per tank is similar to mine. My work place is just a short drive of 9km and is as good as 100% City driving of morning rush hour start stop traffic.. stoping at every other traffic light and keeping up with rush hour traffic.

 

I would check my tire pressures at least once a month. The recommended pressure is at the Drivers door sill. There’s a decal.

The stock tires are 185/55/15.

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420km per tank is similar to mine. My work place is just a short drive of 9km and is as good as 100% City driving of morning rush hour start stop traffic.. stoping at every other traffic light and keeping up with rush hour traffic.

 

I would check my tire pressures at least once a month. The recommended pressure is at the Drivers door sill. Thereâs a decal.

The stock tires are 185/55/15.

Thanks! Come to think of it.. mines also about 80% to 90% of city driving. A bit puzzled how others can clock 480km which is quite a substantial difference.
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This one is highway all the way in Malaysia. Drive in at night, second link... Lol. Sponsored by c&c, AD for at attrage.

 

wow 24+km/L, better than hybrid,  must pump Shell.

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To achieved the FC of 24km/l, most likely they switch off the air-conditioning, drive with all window up. All test road with no traffic light. Rpm never go above 1500, speed less than 60km/h.....

In the real world, no one will drive like this....

Driven my friend’s Attrage but only with a driver and passenger , maintained the RPM below 2500 and done some start and stop but more highway with air con on and we are able to achieve 23km/L . Mitsubishi stated 21.4Km/L if I am not wrong . Power wise not very ideal but from point A to B still quite ok from this price tag .
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Driven my friend’s Attrage but only with a driver and passenger , maintained the RPM below 2500 and done some start and stop but more highway with air con on and we are able to achieve 23km/L . Mitsubishi stated 21.4Km/L if I am not wrong . Power wise not very ideal but from point A to B still quite ok from this price tag .

FC cannot measured base on a short trip highway driving.

Proper way of monitoring the FC for our local road is at least collect a few tank data, caculate manually.

Most modern 1.2 to 1.5 engine can get your number is purely base on a short trip don't jammed highway. Which is non realistic.

And need to drive with a rough 3 cylinder noisy engine, tin can body.

A few thousand more will get a better equipped and value Korean car made more sense.

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FC cannot measured base on a short trip highway driving.

Proper way of monitoring the FC for our local road is at least collect a few tank data, caculate manually.

Most modern 1.2 to 1.5 engine can get your number is purely base on a short trip don't jammed highway. Which is non realistic.

And need to drive with a rough 3 cylinder noisy engine, tin can body.

A few thousand more will get a better equipped and value Korean car made more sense.

It’s quite hard to measure manually . For example if you are idling and fuel is still burning without clocking mileage, you are unable to measure and further more , the same distance clocked on a highway and start and stop traffics are also not the same . Start and stop will consume more fuel due to the fact that car needs to drag its weight from stationary to move which consumes more fuel while if car is already rolling on the highway which will consume less fuel . The term 24km/L is actually calculating all these factors in by average and not just litres of fuel divider directly by the mileage clocked .

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Itâs quite hard to measure manually . For example if you are idling and fuel is still burning without clocking mileage, you are unable to measure and further more , the same distance clocked on a highway and start and stop traffics are also not the same . Start and stop will consume more fuel due to the fact that car needs to drag its weight from stationary to move which consumes more fuel while if car is already rolling on the highway which will consume less fuel . The term 24km/L is actually calculating all these factors in by average and not just litres of fuel divider directly by the mileage clocked .

thats why need to take mileage diff travelled divided by amount of petrol pumped, and monitor for a few pumps.
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Itâs quite hard to measure manually . For example if you are idling and fuel is still burning without clocking mileage, you are unable to measure and further more , the same distance clocked on a highway and start and stop traffics are also not the same . Start and stop will consume more fuel due to the fact that car needs to drag its weight from stationary to move which consumes more fuel while if car is already rolling on the highway which will consume less fuel . The term 24km/L is actually calculating all these factors in by average and not just litres of fuel divider directly by the mileage clocked .

Your car are also using petrol when idle. Of course you need to include the idle petrol use. Only use highway cruising is not correct.
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Your car are also using petrol when idle. Of course you need to include the idle petrol use. Only use highway cruising is not correct.

What I meant is the meter shows on the car is taken all into considerations . Idling , cruising , start and stop etc, which what Mitsubishi is implying and it’s hard to achieve in our road conditions . total of litres divided by the actual mileage clocked is not that accurate because mileage is not clocked during idling be it how many tanks u pumped .
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Itâs quite hard to measure manually . For example if you are idling and fuel is still burning without clocking mileage, you are unable to measure and further more , the same distance clocked on a highway and start and stop traffics are also not the same . Start and stop will consume more fuel due to the fact that car needs to drag its weight from stationary to move which consumes more fuel while if car is already rolling on the highway which will consume less fuel . The term 24km/L is actually calculating all these factors in by average and not just litres of fuel divider directly by the mileage clocked .

Your car are also using petrol when idle. Of course you need to include the idle petrol use. Only use highway cruising is not correct.
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thats why need to take mileage diff travelled divided by amount of petrol pumped, and monitor for a few pumps.

Can you teach us how to measure the fuel consumptions while idling without clocking Mileage ? Since u are calculating the mileage in divided by the fuel used . Thanks for your expertise .
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