ATF Flush

[Dwoon]

Yes, I just did a ATF change using the machine at Stamford Tuas.

 

The machine is different from say Khang's or Riverview. The tube is basically inserted through the dipstick opening to swap out the old and put in the new ATF. I brought my own ATF so labour charges is only $45.

 

I used a total of 16 litres for the full change of ATF.

[Roadhogger]

i felt that draining from the plug underneath the car is better...all the residue is always at the bottom

[Hamburger]

agree to mi is a overkill.juz drain from bottom n fill it up. less than 4L for most car. damage is 10 bucks excl atf

[Dwoon]

If I do a drain & fill from the drain plug below.... it takes only 4 quarts. This is only about half my autobox's capacity of 9.8 litres. This I usually do with my engine oil change intervals.

 

Also, I'm changing to T-IV from Dexron III, so I prefer to switch out completely rather than have a mix of ATF types inside.

[Kklee]

For the Stamford Tuas machine, how long did it take for the flush the ATF fully? Also, roughly how wide is the tubing?

[Dwoon]

The tube is like those used in aquarium (maybe 5mm diameter).

 

Mind you, its not a flush to be exact. Its a swapping of the old for the new ATF. Different from the machine used in Khang's or Riverview. (But also cheaper at $45 to use).

 

No need to dismantle anything. Mech just pulled out ATF dipstick, put in the hose/tube, switch on the engine and key into the machine, the amount of ATF to change. Then you'll see the ATF either being sucked out or channeled in (all through the same tube). The cycle is alternating, till the keyed in amount of ATF is reached. So there's no "cycling" of the ATF within the system to flush out anything.

 

Process took about half hour. Waiting is 1 hour.

Edited April 8, 2008 by Dwoon

[Kklee]

The engine on or off?

[Dwoon]

Engine must be running in Neutral / Park.

[Trex101]

One method i see my mechanic do is to disconnect the ATF cooler hose and when start the engine, the ATF will flow out from the cooler hose into a 6qt measured container.

Fresh ATF in the meantime is pour continually into the auto-trans through the dip stick hole. This will ensure that the sump fluid is cycle through the system before it's displaced. Good point in this method is you can specific the amount of fluid to change, be it 6qt or 9qt.

[Dwoon]

Yes, I've read about this. (not seen it being done though)

 

Apparently, this is old school method of replacing the ATF. Once the colour of the ATF coming out changes, that means the majority of the old stuff is out. But it also says it requires a 2 man effort.....one to pour while the other monitors the out-flow.

 

I'm surprised that none of the mechs I've engaged does this. All they do is drain the 4 quarts and re-fill the 4 quarts. When I mentioned I want a total replacement, they just say they don't have the machine and ask me to go to those workshops that do.

[Garlic]

Flushing is like pouring in good oil from the top and then letting it flow out from the bottom.

 

What I did at 10K was drain + fill and then repeat after 500km, total amount of ATF used was 6 litres and is about the full capacity of the gearbox sump.

 

Did that to remove any deposits that might have accumulated during break-in. Subsequent changes were done at 20K intervals.

[Hilander4650]

have tried doing full flush using shell full syn & drain/fill using mobil syn. Imo drain/fill is better autobox not as rough as doing full flush. i would say do drain/fill is good enough but do it more frequently like 30k interval.

[Qaz20]

I normally change ATF at every 20k...

ensure tip top condition.

[Pisces69]

Wanna got "tikam" on the ATF flushing together???

 

I'm way overdue for it already..... still haven't got round to deciding whether to do at KATC in SIn Ming or the Stamford Tyres outlet in Tuas.....

 

I've already checked on the Totota T-IV and price is not too ex... probably need 3 tins for a flush.....

=================================

 

I was thinking of doing the Drain & fill but twice at 1 go to clear most of the old ATF.

 

Maybe get it done at my old ws in Yishun. I think 1 tin of Toyota type IV sud b enough.

 

I also might do a PS flush.

 

U still interested to get it done together?

 

BTW how much for a tin of Toyota Type IV ATF & how many liters in a tin?

Edited April 14, 2008 by Pisces69

[Pisces69]

If I do a drain & fill from the drain plug below.... it takes only 4 quarts. This is only about half my autobox's capacity of 9.8 litres. This I usually do with my engine oil change intervals.

 

Also, I'm changing to T-IV from Dexron III, so I prefer to switch out completely rather than have a mix of ATF types inside.

=================

 

T-IV is also Dexron 4 or 5. As what Genie said, all Dexron is compatible with each other so can mix lah.

 

I got RP ATF but I think it's only IID but my Optra needs minimum Dexron III so I gonna get the T-IV which is better. Only disadvantage is T-IV is mineral but RP is synthetic.

 

Oh what the heck cos my handbook says I don't even need to change the ATF unless it's very black or I find metal fillings in it. I'm now coming to 50K km, so I guess it might b time for some fresh ATF.

[Pisces69]

The tube is like those used in aquarium (maybe 5mm diameter).

 

Mind you, its not a flush to be exact. Its a swapping of the old for the new ATF. Different from the machine used in Khang's or Riverview. (But also cheaper at $45 to use).

 

No need to dismantle anything. Mech just pulled out ATF dipstick, put in the hose/tube, switch on the engine and key into the machine, the amount of ATF to change. Then you'll see the ATF either being sucked out or channeled in (all through the same tube). The cycle is alternating, till the keyed in amount of ATF is reached. So there's no "cycling" of the ATF within the system to flush out anything.

 

Process took about half hour. Waiting is 1 hour.

====================

 

Last time I did my Corona at Khangs, they also use the tube inserted into the dipstick hole to drain & fill with the engine running.

 

Once u see the atf coming out is clear red, the job is done.

[Dwoon]

Eh.... I've already done my ATF "flush" at Stamford Tuas. The PS so called flush is just suck up the old one & put in new ATF (for a couple of times). This one anywhere can do since no need special machine.

 

Think you'll need at least 2 tins of the ATF (3 to be safe). One tin is 4 litres. I got mine from a bro selling online at $25 per tin. Else you can always go to Sin Ming area which I think the price is thereabouts.

 

I don't bother if its synthetic or mineral as I'll do a drain & fill of 4 quarts every 10K kms, together with my engine oil change.

 

Oh, best you get your ATF filter from your regular WS. Else if Khang's or your other WS does not have the filter, then you'll need to make another trip to have the filter changed.

 

Cheers.

Edited April 15, 2008 by Dwoon

[Pisces69]

OK thanks. I wil prob just do a drain & fill at my 50K km service.

 

Can u PM me the contact who is selling the Type-IV ATF? I need a tin by next month. Also do u have abt 2 qts of 40 weight RP engine oil spare. I also need 2 more qts as I only have 2 at home.