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MAZDA 6


Voxy28
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(edited)

These happened to me before twice....with a) was the easiest and cheapest to solve :)

 

a) Battery - how long ago did you changed the battery? my batt gave the above symptoms

 

b) Engine timing off - haiz....this happen to my last 6 when the crank pulley when ku ku ...as a result .....haiz

 

PS: I tot u going to change car already?

 

My battery's < 1 yr old, and I have no problem cranking the engine.

 

Engine timing off - now that can be a problem. I'll ask the SA to check that tomorrow, together with all these:

1) Spark plug gap

2) Spark plug cable

3) Ignition coil

4) Fuel filter / pump

5) E-Throttle / Valve

6) MAF sensor

 

I was thinking of changing my car, but after I change my upper suspension arms, I've decided I want to realise my investment. Plus...I really enjoyed my recent drive to Malacca after my 140k servicing - smooth and effortless drive that brought back fond memories of my frequent road trips along Route 3 once upon a time. Of course, I must say I remain spooked by Jaguar's notorious reliability, though not as much as before.

Edited by Siewss
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My battery's < 1 yr old, and I have no problem cranking the engine.

 

Engine timing off - now that can be a problem. I'll ask the SA to check that tomorrow, together with all these:

1) Spark plug gap

2) Spark plug cable

3) Ignition coil

4) Fuel filter / pump

5) E-Throttle / Valve

6) MAF sensor

 

I was thinking of changing my car, but after I change my upper suspension arms, I've decided I want to realise my investment. Plus...I really enjoyed my recent drive to Malacca after my 140k servicing - smooth and effortless drive that brought back fond memories of my frequent road trips along Route 3 once upon a time. Of course, I must say I remain spooked by Jaguar's notorious reliability, though not as much as before.

 

Charmed by the XF ...spooked by the reliability....kekekek.

 

Reliability is one thing I love about my 6..

 

Update again when they found the actual cause ....so that we can learn something :)

 

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Charmed by the XF ...spooked by the reliability....kekekek.

 

Reliability is one thing I love about my 6..

 

Update again when they found the actual cause ....so that we can learn something :)

 

Disappointed is the word. My regular service advisor was on medical leave so I was attended to by another one.

 

4 things I needed fixing:

1) Jerking when accelerating (mechanic test drove and told me he'll try to reflash the ECU)

2) Replace a missing air filter box clip

3) Adjust the rear brakes as it was grabbing the disc

4) Re-insert the parking bulb as it was intermittently coming on and off.

 

At the end of the day:

1) Service advisor couldn't wait to rush home and was not around to explain what's done when I picked up my car at 6pm

2) Air filter box clip was replaced

3) Nothing done to the parking bulb - just given the excuse that the socket may be damaged or the wiring could have been burnt

4) Nothing done to the rear brakes

5) Most importantly - couldn't find the source of the jerking problem. "Cleaned" the coil and told me to monitor, and wait for engine light to come on. No ECU reflashed, no spark plug changed, no sensor found faulty. Was told the ignition coil is $386 per piece. I detected the problem the moment I turned on the engine.

 

Bottomline - problem unresolved. Felt like I paid $57 for a car wash. Now looking to see if can buy the ignition coil through amazon.

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Yikes that sucks. U went back to Mazda and got this? -_-

 

Which did u go to, ubi or alexandra? Perhaps consider getting a second opinion?

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Yikes that sucks. U went back to Mazda and got this? -_-

 

Which did u go to, ubi or alexandra? Perhaps consider getting a second opinion?

 

It was Leng Kee. Maybe I should try Ubi.

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Supercharged

To be fair, the Jag's reliability have improved tremendously through the years.

 

Charmed by the XF ...spooked by the reliability....kekekek.

 

Reliability is one thing I love about my 6..

 

Update again when they found the actual cause ....so that we can learn something :)

 

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It was Leng Kee. Maybe I should try Ubi.

Worth a shot, but I wouldn't harbour too high hopes. Maybe can try asking in MCS if anyone knew a workshop familiar with the MPS.

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Hi,

 

Anyone ever change their steering wheel coupling before?

Recently has been experience irritating noise when turning the steering wheel.

Sent to Autosaver for a check and they mention that coupling damage.

Anyone know the cost for this coupling?

 

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(edited)

Engine hesitation problem solved.

 

The CEL came on this morning - sent down to AD and within 30 mins they were able to diagnose the fault. Turned out to be a faulty injector.

 

Of course I asked if the injectors could be cleaned, but typical of ADs these days. they recommended replacing, claiming that the injector problem is not due to clogging. Cost me $2244 before discount. I changed the spark plugs at the same time, together with the thermostat, which had some watermark.

 

Seems like direct injection engine is prone to such problems. True?

 

Anyway, now my car rides like a dream [cool]

Edited by Siewss
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Engine hesitation problem solved.

 

The CEL came on this morning - sent down to AD and within 30 mins they were able to diagnose the fault. Turned out to be a faulty injector.

 

Of course I asked if the injectors could be cleaned, but typical of ADs these days. they recommended replacing, claiming that the injector problem is not due to clogging. Cost me $2244 before discount. I changed the spark plugs at the same time, together with the thermostat, which had some watermark.

 

Seems like direct injection engine is prone to such problems. True?

 

Anyway, now my car rides like a dream [cool]

 

 

Wow.....Direct Injector? $2244? ...power this is the single largest item replacement I seen

 

Good thing is that everything is smooth now :)

 

 

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Hi,

 

Anyone ever change their steering wheel coupling before?

Recently has been experience irritating noise when turning the steering wheel.

Sent to Autosaver for a check and they mention that coupling damage.

Anyone know the cost for this coupling?

 

Send car to Mazda today and after some test driving by their mechanic, told me that might be the lower arm bush giving way.

It will cost abt$250 replacing it exclude labour which is abt $150...

 

Anyone replace this before?

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Supersonic

Hi Guys

 

I read through the entire 34 pages of this thread. I am currently driving an MX-5 but I am looking for a old (really old 2005 or 2006) Mazda 6 for my parent to run around in.

 

So far, I learnt that, for the old Mz6:

- it uses timing chain and not belt

- there is no boot release in the cabin and you have to open the boot from the outside

- I am guessing RON 95 will do for the Mz6

 

But I need to know what ATF to use for the 05/06 Mz6 - if I do get the car, will probably want to do a comprehensive service straightaway and also flush ATF.

 

Appreciate your advice pls? Thanks!

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Hi Guys

 

I read through the entire 34 pages of this thread. I am currently driving an MX-5 but I am looking for a old (really old 2005 or 2006) Mazda 6 for my parent to run around in.

 

So far, I learnt that, for the old Mz6:

- it uses timing chain and not belt

- there is no boot release in the cabin and you have to open the boot from the outside

- I am guessing RON 95 will do for the Mz6

 

But I need to know what ATF to use for the 05/06 Mz6 - if I do get the car, will probably want to do a comprehensive service straightaway and also flush ATF.

 

Appreciate your advice pls? Thanks!

Consider also sending the car back to AD to service. Quite reasonable rates. Just check it out first perhaps.

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Engine hesitation problem solved.

 

The CEL came on this morning - sent down to AD and within 30 mins they were able to diagnose the fault. Turned out to be a faulty injector.

 

Of course I asked if the injectors could be cleaned, but typical of ADs these days. they recommended replacing, claiming that the injector problem is not due to clogging. Cost me $2244 before discount. I changed the spark plugs at the same time, together with the thermostat, which had some watermark.

 

Seems like direct injection engine is prone to such problems. True?

 

Anyway, now my car rides like a dream [cool]

Ubi?

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Wow.....Direct Injector? $2244? ...power this is the single largest item replacement I seen

 

Good thing is that everything is smooth now :)

 

Likewise.. faint. That's one big item!

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Send car to Mazda today and after some test driving by their mechanic, told me that might be the lower arm bush giving way.

It will cost abt$250 replacing it exclude labour which is abt $150...

 

Anyone replace this before?

 

I'm a bit hush hush about this. Make sure you get them to show you proof of it giving way. Show you new set vs your current set. I've had experience with other workshop on upper arm. It turns out it was the problem but I've spent much on buying the replacement item. Sound still persists and I don't know if it'll ever go away. Worst is I get mechs telling me "this kinda thing.. can only change and test to see if the sound is still there"

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I'm a bit hush hush about this. Make sure you get them to show you proof of it giving way. Show you new set vs your current set. I've had experience with other workshop on upper arm. It turns out it was the problem but I've spent much on buying the replacement item. Sound still persists and I don't know if it'll ever go away. Worst is I get mechs telling me "this kinda thing.. can only change and test to see if the sound is still there"

 

Just send my car in to AD for repair this morning.

 

Just got a call from my service adviser. Got a shock out of my life.

He told me the sound is due to alot of parts damage.

Part 1 - Drive shalf inner rubber boot crack, cause leakage of lubricant onto the lower arm

Part 2 - Lower arm rubber absorb the lubricant result in producing alot of noise when going through hump.

Part 3 - Suspnsion also affect.

 

Total cost for part 1 & 2 is about $2K+(Part 1 is abt $500+ and part 2 is abt 1.5K)

 

Anyone of you ever change this 2 parts before?

According to them, it's very difficult to change.

 

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Just send my car in to AD for repair this morning.

 

Just got a call from my service adviser. Got a shock out of my life.

He told me the sound is due to alot of parts damage.

Part 1 - Drive shalf inner rubber boot crack, cause leakage of lubricant onto the lower arm

Part 2 - Lower arm rubber absorb the lubricant result in producing alot of noise when going through hump.

Part 3 - Suspnsion also affect.

 

Total cost for part 1 & 2 is about $2K+(Part 1 is abt $500+ and part 2 is abt 1.5K)

 

Anyone of you ever change this 2 parts before?

According to them, it's very difficult to change.

 

 

Get a second opinion from elsewhere, maybe City Auto... Is yours the 1st or 2nd Gen Mazda 6? how many more years to go?

You might want to consider getting recon parts

 

I changed my drive shaft, front upper arms & lower arms for less than $1k (1st Gen)

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