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2014 Corolla Altis - Technical, Features & Use


Kklee
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MY SE says $104,988 now.

Less $2K for trade-in (Toyota brand only)

Colours: Only brown, black, red left.

 

Let me know if you want my SE's contact.

She's quite pro. Hassle-free dealing with her to switch to my 1st Toyota.

 

*Disclaimer: I don't get commission :)

Price may up soon as car show is coming. Whoever look for cheaper price may consider to grab. Those as look for facelift nicer exterior and dont mind with the potential increase of price then may wait a while:-)
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Today, I think I encounter the pull & release at around 60km/h - I think the RPM is too low at 1k.

 

 

Yeah, share pix.

Eh..... use scissors lah, how small also can........

Your point is more convincing than the ubi mechanics ( switching between 4th n 55h gear at 1k rpm / 60kph}.

 

Recently I had car serviced at pandan. The test driver there was serious with my concerns ( dashboard vibration noise , bouncy suspensions ) n he acknowledged when the noise / bounce happened.

 

I will not go back to ubi again.

MY SE says $104,988 now.

Less $2K for trade-in (Toyota brand only)

Colours: Only brown, black, red left.

 

Let me know if you want my SE's contact.

She's quite pro. Hassle-free dealing with her to switch to my 1st Toyota.

 

*Disclaimer: I don't get commission :)

Black is nice.

 

I do not expect with this mild fluctuation of the coe in the past rounds bm will do Much to sweeten the deal or slash price.

 

Even when coe was lower they like keep the price n throw in tHibgs like 5yr svc. Bottom line they want your Money n they give u labour instead.

Price may up soon as car show is coming. Whoever look for cheaper price may consider to grab. Those as look for facelift nicer exterior and dont mind with the potential increase of price then may wait a while:-)

I thought price usually lower a bit at car show. Not? I am guessing I never bothered going to car show.

MY SE says $104,988 now.

Less $2K for trade-in (Toyota brand only)

Colours: Only brown, black, red left.

 

Let me know if you want my SE's contact.

She's quite pro. Hassle-free dealing with her to switch to my 1st Toyota.

 

*Disclaimer: I don't get commission :)

My mind teased me n I read "she is quite chio" when my eyes saw "pro". Haha. Edited by ConnorMcLeod
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Your point is more convincing than the ubi mechanics ( switching between 4th n 55h gear at 1k rpm / 60kph}.

 

Recently I had car serviced at pandan. The test driver there was serious with my concerns ( dashboard vibration noise , bouncy suspensions ) n he acknowledged when the noise / bounce happened.

 

 

 

Tyres plays a part.  Which tyre, size and front/back pressure? 

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Your point is more convincing than the ubi mechanics ( switching between 4th n 55h gear at 1k rpm / 60kph}.

 

Recently I had car serviced at pandan. The test driver there was serious with my concerns ( dashboard vibration noise , bouncy suspensions ) n he acknowledged when the noise / bounce happened.

 

I will not go back to ubi again.

Black is nice.

 

Finally got my auto-lock on P set by ubi mechanic.

My dashboard also vibrates esp when on those cobblestones roads... feels like cheap parts falling loose.

And both headlights got these 2 "dirty" lines... mechanic showed me a few other Altis got this too.

LL have to accept.

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Tyres plays a part. Which tyre, size and front/back pressure?

Since it was 3 months between the 5k n 10k km svc I did not touch the tyres. The pandan guy reminded me the different tyre pressure for full or half full occupancy.

Finally got my auto-lock on P set by ubi mechanic.

My dashboard also vibrates esp when on those cobblestones roads... feels like cheap parts falling loose.

And both headlights got these 2 "dirty" lines... mechanic showed me a few other Altis got this too.

LL have to accept.

What dirty line ? Can show pic ?

I notice (with headlight switched on) the glass looks dusty even when new. The outside casing is clean n makes no difference to the above. Functionally does not have impact neither I will stare at my headlight in car park. Just about the quality or workmanship.

 

Funny all Consistently 'bad' can become the benchmark/baseline.

Edited by ConnorMcLeod
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Since it was 3 months between the 5k n 10k km svc I did not touch the tyres. The pandan guy reminded me the different tyre pressure for full or half full occupancy.

 

 

You should ask the guy what pressure to set for full and half occupancy.

After he gives you an answer,  ask him is that for full tank or half tank. 

Finally got my auto-lock on P set by ubi mechanic.

My dashboard also vibrates esp when on those cobblestones roads... feels like cheap parts falling loose.

And both headlights got these 2 "dirty" lines... mechanic showed me a few other Altis got this too.

LL have to accept.

 

Lower your tyre pressure. 

When my tyre pressure is high,  the vibration can even be seen on the dashcam footage.   [laugh]

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Since it was 3 months between the 5k n 10k km svc I did not touch the tyres. The pandan guy reminded me the different tyre pressure for full or half full occupancy.

What dirty line ? Can show pic ?

I notice (with headlight switched on) the glass looks dusty even when new. The outside casing is clean n makes no difference to the above. Functionally does not have impact neither I will stare at my headlight in car park. Just about the quality or workmanship.

 

Funny all Consistently 'bad' can become the benchmark/baseline.

The lines very obvious at nights, or in basement carpark, unless yours don't have.

Daytime won't be able to see.

And it's inside both headlights... can't clean.

Mechanic says it is reflection... win liao lor.

post-185625-0-57956200-1492172617.jpg

Edited by Carbuyer8989
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You should ask the guy what pressure to set for full and half occupancy.

After he gives you an answer, ask him is that for full tank or half tank.

 

 

Lower your tyre pressure.

When my tyre pressure is high, the vibration can even be seen on the dashcam footage. [laugh]

Don't play me lah. Next will be passenger weight , ate buffet or not, emptied bowel n bladder not etc.
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(edited)

Don't play me lah. Next will be passenger weight , ate buffet or not, emptied bowel n bladder not etc.

Edited by Kklee
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I notice that my car now rpm is quite stable w/ gear in D and brake depressed. Fluctuating aro .75k rpm mark. Last time, it will dip to just above .5k mark. That is the time I will also feel the pull & push effect. When I release the brake without stepping on the accelerator, the rpm istay stable @ .75k rpm Mark.

Nowadays, I feel the steering wheel a bit heavier although tire pressure remain the same. Weight capacity same.

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Nowadays, I feel the steering wheel a bit heavier although tire pressure remain the same. Weight capacity same.

 

Now need less frequent pumping air to tyre? 

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Actually, I have the habit of pumping tire every week. My pressure tire quite high 35 psi front and 34psi back. Previously, @ this pressure, the steering wheel will be light. But if @ recommended pressure, the steering will be a bit heavier. It is different from the test drive car I tested @ BM.

After I follow yr recommendation of putting addictive in yr previous thread, my rpm stabilized a lot. Will try yr advise on TRD engine oil next month for my 30k servicing.

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Actually, I have the habit of pumping tire every week. My pressure tire quite high 35 psi front and 34psi back. Previously, @ this pressure, the steering wheel will be light. But if @ recommended pressure, the steering will be a bit heavier. It is different from the test drive car I tested @ BM.

After I follow yr recommendation of putting addictive in yr previous thread, my rpm stabilized a lot. Will try yr advise on TRD engine oil next month for my 30k servicing.

 

The Caltex Techron Concentrate?

 

IMHO,  tyre pressure is very complex.  In the scenario where every week you go to the pump and there is air to be filled,  in no time, your tyre will have more nitrogen than regular air.  There is a minute difference between them when they reach operating temperature.  This may explain why you feel the bit of heavier. 

 

TRD oil is a good choice for the cleaning properties.  

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The Caltex Techron Concentrate?

 

IMHO, tyre pressure is very complex. In the scenario where every week you go to the pump and there is air to be filled, in no time, your tyre will have more nitrogen than regular air. There is a minute difference between them when they reach operating temperature. This may explain why you feel the bit of heavier.

 

TRD oil is a good choice for the cleaning properties.

Agree, caltex techron every 5k plus using trd oil during servicing. Definitely ensure a smoother engine :)

Been doing that since day 1. Plus the air filters, etc. Always good to pamper your ride whenever you can.

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Agree, caltex techron every 5k plus using trd oil during servicing. Definitely ensure a smoother engine :)

Been doing that since day 1. Plus the air filters, etc. Always good to pamper your ride whenever you can.

 

Actually I recommended this to alot of people but the take up rate is [thumbsdown]  

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Actually I recommended this to alot of people but the take up rate is [thumbsdown]

Nvm bro, actually, no matter what petrol car you drive, techron is, imho, a must have to ensure engine is smooth.

We do our best to reco :)

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Agree, caltex techron every 5k plus using trd oil during servicing. Definitely ensure a smoother engine :)

Been doing that since day 1. Plus the air filters, etc. Always good to pamper your ride whenever you can.

Was taken by surprise by the price of trd oil. Anyway with the basic oil I can achieve quite good mileage so I just continue with caltex 95.

 

A friend said don't use caltex concentrate on old engine because the dirt may be blocking gaps and once remove can end up with leaky engine. Fairy tale ?

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