Cordless power tool system - which one ?

[Lala81]

Command strips should be placed on some place with no painted walls. My new place had quite a number of pre-existing command hooks and strips.
The pull down tab breaks on pulling down cos too dry liao over the years. Pulling away some, u will take off the paint for the walls.
Of course those on tiles/veneer/laminates bo taichi. 

 

[Lala81]

1 hour ago, Fcw75 said:

Must see what you need it for la, no need so excessive.

Lala81 probably need it to drill screw to hang photo and all the minor stuff. I predict he will barely use it after that.

He’s a doctor, probably use a pen much more often than a rotary drill. 🤣

now pen, only used to sign. my hand cramps if i write too much. 😂

[serenade]

If really is just to hang light pictures, I use this. Fail safe and can remove with only a small mark. All you need is a hammer.

https://www.amazon.sg/EuTengHao-Invisible-Traceless-Hardwall-Function/dp/B07F2CZD6M

Heavy frame pictures then need L bracket to support at the bottom.

 

[serenade]

13 minutes ago, Kb27 said:

Last time, my walls are empty, now many are filled with brackets, shelves, cabinets. Get the ingco rotary hammer and have fun.  

I fitted many shelves. Not so easy to get perfectly level. I marked using spirit level then when I drilled, shifted a bit. Put the shelf on the frame and it was slanted, and rocked. I cheated by putting paper underneath the plank. No more rocking and to naked eye, is level.

[Kb27]

No place to store your ladder ?

Just hang it on the wall. Why stop at hanging clocks and picture frames, esp if you have a rotary hammer. 

 

[Volvobrick]

6 minutes ago, Kb27 said:

No place to store your ladder ?

Just hang it on the wall. Why stop at hanging clocks and picture frames, esp if you have a rotary hammer. 

 

 

You sound like a boy just given his first gun and shooting everything in sight! 😄

[Kb27]

13 minutes ago, serenade said:

I fitted many shelves. Not so easy to get perfectly level. I marked using spirit level then when I drilled, shifted a bit. Put the shelf on the frame and it was slanted, and rocked. I cheated by putting paper underneath the plank. No more rocking and to naked eye, is level.

Now can play with cheap laser level.

https://shopee.sg/3D-Level-Self-Laser-Horizontal-Ruler-Leveling-Point-Line-Cross-Horizontal-Vertical-360-°Infrared-Laser-Level-i.212310176.9329998022?adsid=0&campaignid=0&position=-1

Just point at the wall, while you work.

[Lala81]

1 hour ago, serenade said:

If really is just to hang light pictures, I use this. Fail safe and can remove with only a small mark. All you need is a hammer.

https://www.amazon.sg/EuTengHao-Invisible-Traceless-Hardwall-Function/dp/B07F2CZD6M

Heavy frame pictures then need L bracket to support at the bottom.

 

I grew up with these in my parents home. My dad dont have power tools. Don't have a good impression honestly. Though retrospectively like you said that it was probably overloaded. 

[therock]

Bros
I'm trying to screw a little hook into my hollow laminate door:

I've seen others just attach the screw to their drill, then press and the screw goes in.. but try as I may, the screw keeps running away... any ideas? 
 

[Volvobrick]

55 minutes ago, therock said:

Bros
I'm trying to screw a little hook into my hollow laminate door:

I've seen others just attach the screw to their drill, then press and the screw goes in.. but try as I may, the screw keeps running away... any ideas? 
 

Should those (brass) hooks be hand tighten? 

[therock]

26 minutes ago, Volvobrick said:

Should those (brass) hooks be hand tighten? 

So do I hold onto it and tighten, I don't know if it will bite...

[Volvobrick]

12 minutes ago, therock said:

So do I hold onto it and tighten, I don't know if it will bite...

Make a very small hole in the laminate first.

But if the door is indeed hollow, it may not hold a load even if you screw it in all the way.

Edited October 6, 2021 by Volvobrick

[Kb27]

1 hour ago, therock said:

Bros
I'm trying to screw a little hook into my hollow laminate door:

I've seen others just attach the screw to their drill, then press and the screw goes in.. but try as I may, the screw keeps running away... any ideas? 
 

You might need a gypsum board expansion plug. It's a interface between the screw and the hollow laminate. Just like we put wall plugs to concrete hole.

https://shopee.sg/Aircraft-butterfly-expansion-screw-expansion-plug-gypsum-board-hollow-wall-wooden-board-plastic-board-steel-plate-iron-plate-ceiling-light-mural-bolt-installation-i.313942170.3169609020?position=12

https://shopee.sg/Gypsum-board-expandable-spiral-tubes-plastic-screw-stopper-screw-bolts-curtain-wall-hollow-bricks-up-plug-i.272923549.6538614881?position=8

[therock]

thanks - I meant I can't keep the screw steady enough to screw in...

[Lala81]

On 10/4/2021 at 10:56 PM, Kb27 said:

Then get some screws of various length there. 1-1/4" is most common for many (wood) jobs, but you need to measure/gauge the length of the screw needed. You may also need 1", 2" screws, again depending on the job.

Let's say you want to make a hole in the concrete wall to hang a clock. The clock is light, so you don't need heavy stuffs. Make a 6mm hole, then insert the M6 plugs. The hole depth must be slightly longer/deeper than the wall plug length, but not too deep until the whole plug sink into it. So if the plug is 3cm length, make roughly 3.5 to 4mm deep hole. The screw you need will be about 3 to 4 mm in diameter, and longer than 3cm. Giving the plastic plug 1mm of space on either side, that's roughly the diameter of the screw it takes. When you buy the box of M6 Fisher plugs, there's a label of instruction printed on the box. Try to follow it. I do not recommend other types of plugs due to bad experience, only the Fisher plugs. It's dirt cheap.

The screw must go in all the way down the Fisher plug to split it and wedge against the concrete, so it's tightened and will not move. Then the exposed length of the screw should be long enough to hold the clock or whatever job. That's why you need to gauge the length of the screws needed.

So really all you need is only a M6 masonry bit, the M6 Fisher plugs and the correct screws (diameter/length).

Ok so if I understand, if I need some general general purpose screws. 

For walls to hang clock, I need roughly a M4 x 38-40mm for the jutting out portion. 

For wood work, I may get m3-3.5 x 25-32mm.

That would be like sufficient as a simple base to cover 80% of what I am likely to encounter ?

Edited October 6, 2021 by Lala81

[Kb27]

54 minutes ago, therock said:

thanks - I meant I can't keep the screw steady enough to screw in...

Oh..you need to drill a small pilot hole. If your screw size is m3, use a slightly smaller drill bit. I'd just minus 0.5mm away, so use a 2.5mm bit.

For m4 screws, I'd use a 3.5mm bit.

Edited October 6, 2021 by Kb27

[Kb27]

21 minutes ago, Lala81 said:

Ok so if I understand, if I need some general general purpose screws. 

For walls to hang clock, I need roughly a M4 x 38-40mm for the jutting out portion. 

For wood work, I may get m3-3.5 x 25-32mm.

That would be like sufficient as a simple base to cover 80% of what I am likely to encounter ?

Or you can buy a starter pack like this, more convenient.

https://shopee.sg/NINDEJIN-151-381pcs-Set-Cross-Recessed-Round-Head-Self-Tapping-Screw-Set-M3-M4-M5-304-Stainless-Steel-Pan-Head-Woodworking-Metal-Phillips-Screw-i.287803724.13118835993

For hanging clock, have a look at the its backside, check the hole size to fit the screw.

Or you can invest in a cheap vernier for convenience to measure small stuff.

https://shopee.sg/Carbon-Fiber-Composite-6-inch-0-150mm-Vernier-Digital-Electronic-Caliper-Ruler-i.202244526.9300502410?position=10

Screw size is measured by the outer diameter of the thread, not the inner diameter.

Screw head is either pan head (round top) or flat head (flat top), sometimes it's described as truss, which means it has a wider head. It depends on the application, in some cases, you'd want a truss head, in others, no.

 

[Volvobrick]

3 hours ago, Lala81 said:

Ok so if I understand, if I need some general general purpose screws. 

For walls to hang clock, I need roughly a M4 x 38-40mm for the jutting out portion. 

For wood work, I may get m3-3.5 x 25-32mm.

That would be like sufficient as a simple base to cover 80% of what I am likely to encounter ?

https://shopee.sg/50-Set-M6-Frame-Fixings-Expansion-Tube-Anchors-Nails-Plug-Bolt-Screws-i.140392516.2313603919?position=44

This should cover 90% of the wall jobs you have in mind.  Most new shelves/racks will come with suitable screws and wall plugs (e.g. bike hanging racks I bought recently, or Ikea items, or even drawer rails)

Woodwork really depends on the thickness of the wood you are screwing together.  Can even be 3 - 4 inches long.  25mm probably sufficient for plywood but over kill to attach drawer rails.  Also cannot be too long as it may stick out from the other side.  And will you need pan head or countersunk head?  I mostly use countersunk head.