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Is a subwoofer necessary?


Clement
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Hi all,

 

I read through these threads and some info online about 8", 10" and 12" subs with dedicated amp. I'm looking for some "boom" sometimes after work to "let go".

 

Current setup is stock on Mazda 6 2014 with Bose system. Would appreciate kind advise on whether to pick up a 10" or 12" and place in the boot.

 

Usually play music from Maroon 5, eminem raps etc.

 

Thanks!

 

usually people set up 2 x 10"or 1 x 12"....... for me, i always use 1 x 12"

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Hi bro,

 

Depending on how far u wanna go. If wanna go far and not waste too much $$ aong the way to keep on upgrading, i would suggest this.

 

Get a 4 ch amp and run your front 2 ways active.

Get a Audison Bit 10 or bit 1 processor

Get a amp to power a decent 10/12" sub.

 

Will probably set u back about 4k.. but believe me, with the right installer n tuner, you are almost there. The most in future, u will upgrade to 3 way and add a 2 ch amp.

 

Can let u audit if u free.. just for exchange of views.

 

Lots of people may say adding this n that.

It's true that adding things will normally sound better, but it can be alot better. It all voice down to how your system is setup and tuned.

 

Doesn't mean those 20-30k system will surely sound better than a 5k system.

 

 

Since your 4 door are soundproofed then please go for a 4 channel amp ! You definitely need one. Big difference with and without amp.

Change your rear stock to 2 way coaxial speaker. After all this, your last upgrade properly will be adding a active subwoofer.

 

Is 3 way really better than 2 way speaker? I check out the prices.. it is super expensive, custom pillar holder for the mid bass, tweeter.. etc etc..

Easily 1000+...

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Wow! Afterwards the butt got massaging feeling, feel shiok then cannot drive properly!!!

Think boot placement will be better.

 

Found one such subwoofer made by Focal: Ibus 20.

See photo.

 

Has anyone installed this subwoofer? Comments?

 

Thanks.

Have you purchased your sub yet?

 

If you want tight bass, don't get active subs in small boxes, I tried that and it does help a bit, but I won't consider it to be serious audiophile level of music.  All subs need a box to resonate.  Even small subs require a decent sized box.  For tight bass, 8" subs are preferred, though not many can go deep.  Through my years of playing around, there's only one 8" that goes deep and is tight, but its not available locally.  With the box in the boot, you will need an amp to power it: higher power the better. Nowadays most class D amps are pretty good and cheap. Can probably find one 2nd hand.

 

 

Edited by SGCMWhiteKnight
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Hi sorry to hijack this thread..

 

But can I ask all the shifu here a question?

 

I'm gonna go for active setup, and my installer-to-be tells me i only need a 5m RCA cable from my HU to H800, and 3x1M RCA cable from processor to my amps, which are Genesis Profile Four Ultra and Genesis Profile Two Ultra..

 

My HU is Alpine W535EBT.

 

Can anyone tell me how this works? He said the 5m RCA cable is a 1 in-3 out kind of cable..

 

HU to H800 - 1 x 5m RCA (carry all the signal)

 

H800 - 1 x 1m rca to Ch1 & Ch2 of your 4ch amp (mid signal - mid speaker at the door)

H800 - 1 x 1m rca to Ch3 & Ch4 of you 4ch amp (high signal - tweeter speaker)

H800 - 1 x 1m rca bridge to your 2ch amp (low signal - sub woofer)

 

this shall be the intention of your installer, unless your are running 3 way active front only with the subwoofer.

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Have you purchased your sub yet?

 

If you want tight bass, don't get active subs in small boxes, I tried that and it does help a bit, but I won't consider it to be serious audiophile level of music.  All subs need a box to resonate.  Even small subs require a decent sized box.  For tight bass, 8" subs are preferred, though not many can go deep.  Through my years of playing around, there's only one 8" that goes deep and is tight, but its not available locally.  With the box in the boot, you will need an amp to power it: higher power the better. Nowadays most class D amps are pretty good and cheap. Can probably find one 2nd hand.

 

Hi,

 

I have not purchased any sub-woofer yet.

Cannot even get the blasted COE yet!

Already second bidding and no COE in sight!

 

I not keen to install a box in the boot.

If the Focal sub does'nt make much difference.

Maybe will give the sub-woofer a miss.

 

Will need to have the upgrade components installed and give a listen first before I decide what to do.

Getting a 2-way 6.5" component in front, 2 way 6.5" co-axial back and 4 ch amp.

 

I have a 2.1 THX system for my PC at home and always turn down the 8" sub-woofer.

Do not like boomy bass heavy sounds!

Plus i do not like any boomy sound to be heard outside the car.

So not sure if I will install sub-woofer in the car.

 

Does it really make a difference to the car audio?

 

Thanks.

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I'm using an Infinity basslink 10in active sub, and its bloody good.

 

I used to have steelmate 8in active sub too which had good bass, those bigger ones where you put in the boot and not those slim profile ones under the seat.

 

As such, I always recommend active sub to my frens, who need bass in their ride.

 

Have you purchased your sub yet?

 

If you want tight bass, don't get active subs in small boxes, I tried that and it does help a bit, but I won't consider it to be serious audiophile level of music.  All subs need a box to resonate.  Even small subs require a decent sized box.  For tight bass, 8" subs are preferred, though not many can go deep.  Through my years of playing around, there's only one 8" that goes deep and is tight, but its not available locally.  With the box in the boot, you will need an amp to power it: higher power the better. Nowadays most class D amps are pretty good and cheap. Can probably find one 2nd hand.

 

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Hi,

 

I have not purchased any sub-woofer yet.

Cannot even get the blasted COE yet!

Already second bidding and no COE in sight!

 

I not keen to install a box in the boot.

If the Focal sub does'nt make much difference.

Maybe will give the sub-woofer a miss.

 

Will need to have the upgrade components installed and give a listen first before I decide what to do.

Getting a 2-way 6.5" component in front, 2 way 6.5" co-axial back and 4 ch amp.

 

I have a 2.1 THX system for my PC at home and always turn down the 8" sub-woofer.

Do not like boomy bass heavy sounds!

Plus i do not like any boomy sound to be heard outside the car.

So not sure if I will install sub-woofer in the car.

 

Does it really make a difference to the car audio?

 

Thanks.

 

Well then you have time to consider your options.

A sub makes a world of difference to any audio setup if done correctly.  You will need to be able to tune all your components.  Home audio and car are quite different.

 

Home Audio Car ICE

Passive         Active

Sub maybe   Sub must

 

Tuning is a skill which most installers should know what to do, so whoever you are going to get it installed should know. 

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I'm using an Infinity basslink 10in active sub, and its bloody good.

 

I used to have steelmate 8in active sub too which had good bass, those bigger ones where you put in the boot and not those slim profile ones under the seat.

 

As such, I always recommend active sub to my frens, who need bass in their ride.

 

As long as you're happy.

 

As mentioned I have tried active sub in those small box and it doesn't float my boat.  We are talking about low frequencies, so a box is a necessity, its physics, bigger box, lower bass.

 

Haven't said that, there are a couple of SQ subs which can produce fantastic bass from small enclosures, but like I said, no one brings it in, maybe because it will kill off the rest of the bigger subs...lol...IMHO

 

You are free to disagree.

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When I read your post, I had the impression that you thought active subs cannot do the job. So I was trying to say that, depending on the individual, no need to go for mono amp driven sub in a box, if an active sub can do the job.

 

However, that being said, if I had the boot space and willing to spend, I would have gone for a passive sub too.

 

 

As long as you're happy.

 

As mentioned I have tried active sub in those small box and it doesn't float my boat.  We are talking about low frequencies, so a box is a necessity, its physics, bigger box, lower bass.

 

Haven't said that, there are a couple of SQ subs which can produce fantastic bass from small enclosures, but like I said, no one brings it in, maybe because it will kill off the rest of the bigger subs...lol...IMHO

 

You are free to disagree.

 

Edited by Icecube187
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Is 3 way really better than 2 way speaker? I check out the prices.. it is super expensive, custom pillar holder for the mid bass, tweeter.. etc etc..

Easily 1000+...

 

Another option is using pods on the A pillars. However, some people don't like blings on the pillars and prefer something that blends well into the stock interior.

As long as you're happy.

 

As mentioned I have tried active sub in those small box and it doesn't float my boat.  We are talking about low frequencies, so a box is a necessity, its physics, bigger box, lower bass.

 

Haven't said that, there are a couple of SQ subs which can produce fantastic bass from small enclosures, but like I said, no one brings it in, maybe because it will kill off the rest of the bigger subs...lol...IMHO

 

You are free to disagree.

 

Perhaps can just buy the drivers online and fabricate the box locally (save on freight cost too). Any 8-10" sub drivers and box dimension to recommend?

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Perhaps can just buy the drivers online and fabricate the box locally (save on freight cost too). Any 8-10" sub drivers and box dimension to recommend?

 

http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/index.php/12-products/24-idq-subwoofers-3

 

Chose the appropriate impedence and wire correctly for 4/2 ohm.  IMO 4ohm is good enough for SQ in a sealed box. 2ohm are for those going for SPL, but this is an SQ sub.

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Well then you have time to consider your options.

A sub makes a world of difference to any audio setup if done correctly.  You will need to be able to tune all your components.  Home audio and car are quite different.

 

Home Audio Car ICE

Passive         Active

Sub maybe   Sub must

 

Tuning is a skill which most installers should know what to do, so whoever you are going to get it installed should know. 

 

Found one active sub-woofer.

It is a 10 inch unit with built-in 200W rms amp.

Quite a reasonable price too.

Wonder if it will do the job?

Reviews seems to be quite alright.

What do you think?

 

 

 

post-3307-0-42746500-1458206988.jpg

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Found one active sub-woofer.

It is a 10 inch unit with built-in 200W rms amp.

Quite a reasonable price too.

Wonder if it will do the job?

Reviews seems to be quite alright.

What do you think?

 

I moved from a Blaupunkt active sub to the ID8D2v4.  I hope that gives you answers your question.

 

Use this to check the impedance of the sub:

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

Edited by SGCMWhiteKnight
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Hi,

 

If you got a pair of two-way component speakers in front and a pair of two-way co-axial speakers at the rear powered by a decent 4 channel amplifier, is it still necessary to install a subwoofer plus dedicated amp in the boot?

 

I certainly do not want to get that thunderous killer bass which can be heard outside of the car!

 

Thanks.

Having a sub will fill up those lower freq range not able to produce by your door speakers. It can also divert some of the loading to your sub through crossover setting. Whether to go for dedicated amps/sub or active sub all depends on your appetite. However, go for amp/sub if going for a decent or entry setup.

Forget abt the rear speakers. It will mess up the overall sound, even with time correction. So go for 2.1, neater. Make sure you get the time correction set up properly for the front n sub channel to achieve the best sound from the system. Caution: your pax will not be hearing what you are enjoying!

 

Lastly, discuss with your installer to meet your expection. I guess you are looking for SQ and not SPL.

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(edited)

I moved from a Blaupunkt active sub to the ID8D2v4.  I hope that gives you answers your question.

 

Use this to check the impedance of the sub:

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

 

Don't think I am going for a bare sub-woofer, have to get a separate enclosure and separate amp for it.

An active unit is more convenient. Will need to think about it further.

 

My CO will be super horrified if I add in a huge box into the boot space. Looks ugly.

She tells me all speakers sound the same one, why waste so much money on this stuff???

To her a car is just 4 wheels to get from point A to point B.

No need to waste money on it unnecessarily.

 

 

Having a sub will fill up those lower freq range not able to produce by your door speakers. It can also divert some of the loading to your sub through crossover setting. Whether to go for dedicated amps/sub or active sub all depends on your appetite. However, go for amp/sub if going for a decent or entry setup.

Forget abt the rear speakers. It will mess up the overall sound, even with time correction. So go for 2.1, neater. Make sure you get the time correction set up properly for the front n sub channel to achieve the best sound from the system. Caution: your pax will not be hearing what you are enjoying!

 

Lastly, discuss with your installer to meet your expection. I guess you are looking for SQ and not SPL.

 

If I don't have rear speakers, then what do I do with the factory speakers?

Remove them?

 

Yes, me looking for SQ, not going for any EMMA competition / SPL, heh heh heh!

Me like to keep vehicle as stock looking as possible!

Keep a low profile to avoid drawing undue attention to vehicle.

Edited by Clement
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Don hve to remove the factory fitted rear speakers in the car. Just use the fader on the HU to keep the volume at zero. I presume u are using back the HU provided by the AD.

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