Where to do Engine Modification

[Ferringi2000]

wah i like ur style. i also spend alot on 3 of my uncommom yet hard 2 mod continental cars, and many owners of these models are surprised by its performances. but no offence, its really shiok to be fast but more shiok driving a car rarely seen to be faster than most pple.

 

LOL, i like his style too, notthing beat the feeling to overtake car using an inferior make or an old car. I still prefer to overtake car using the old 200E rather than a DC5. The feeling in driving a merc at 180km/h is incredible and feel very different in driving DC at that speed. Actually I am actually looking to do a engine swap for myold 200E w124. Any one have lobang to replace the w124 2000cc with 3000cc engine or even the 500E engine? I am keeping my option open.

[Watwheels]

Why not order a Chevy SC V8 from US and drop into your car? One of a kind in sg.

 

Just lup a turbo and do some tuning can liao lah. Not forgeting to upgrade your brakes and suspensions.

 

For pt.1 I dun think u can lighten much cos the offset parts of the shaft are forged thru casting. In fact u can't.

 

For pt.2 How to balance?? They are going up & down. Not rotating like the crankshaft.

 

For pt.4 I dun understand cos once u grind the offset lobes on the camshaft u will decrease the opening of the valves. What it should be done is to change the whole camshaft with bigger offset lobes to open the intake valves longer and deeper without hitting the pistons.

[Qr25vet]

get the 2.5L cossie engine la or the E320 Engine...get the twin cam version...

[Gendut]

You the man!!!!

 

Its not often you met guys willing to go down a road less travelled.

 

I say go for it and good luck. Hopefully your project succeeds and don't let any fool tell you not to follow your dreams.

[Xiaogary]

Hi Guys,

 

some updates. Indeed, its a tough road to travel. Even simple thing like crankshaft bearing and con rod bearing cannot be found in Singapore, oem or parts distributor at JB or Singapore at Verassamy. Ended up ordering from US and got them flew in. There is no parts available with regards to gear box. The only item avalable is clutch bearing. Very pathethic market for Chevrolet/daewoo/opel, thats why the parts distributor never stock up any parts at all. So if anyone were to burst their gearbox or engine, its not possible for an overhaul in singapore or JB. Only choice is to bring your head back to oem to be chopped or scrape the car. A guy driving a opel was quoted 12K for a whole gear box change just becoas a gear teeth broke in one of the gear. Isn't that crazy? No part replacement, and sky high prices.

 

The crankshaft was not lighten. In fact, the new flywheel is very light, so it is not required. And got the confirmation that nobody does engine/crankshaft balancing in singapore according to a reputable car tuner in this trade for 50+ years.

 

Currently pending final assembly of gearbox and engine back onto the car. Then can proceed to run in after the overhaul. Any ides whats the distance to run in? 2k or 5k? Can only drive slowly until after run in. Then go for a engine dyno tune. Any good UNICHIP tuner in singapore or JB?

 

Things already fitted:

 

1) Crankshaft was modded to fit the new crankshaft sensor.

2) Camshafts grinded in UK at 285 profile with almost 1mm lift higher.

3) Stronger Head bolts were bought from US. Forged Wiseco pistons, pins and rings were custom made in US too.

4) Cometic USA custom made head gasket for better seal.

5) Con rod bearings and crankshaft bearings flew in from US.

6) Custom made oil seal for main block at crankshaft area. ( cannot be bought in sgp/JB also)

7) Lightweight billet steel flywheel 4Kg from UK.

8) Opel clutch cover

9) Daewoo clutch plate

10) Port and polish 2nd time

11) Head reskimmed for better sealing at the head/engine block area

12) 4.2 Final Drive ration from Korea

13) short shifter linkage from Korea

 

Older mods already available in car before this (99hp on wheel dyno):

 

1) Walbro 255l/hr fuel pump

2) Return fuel line

3) Sard Fuel regulator

4) VSD2 Spark Voltage Regulator

5) Steel braided hose

6) 205/40/ZR17 OZ ultraleggra Titanium Gunmetal

7) Unichip

 

Planning to do:

 

1) VTTR mini 6 pot brake caliper and 303mm 2 piece brake disc with ventilated holes.

2) Rear brake disc 256mm.

3) custom made adjustable camshaft venier pulleys

4) upgrade fuel injectors

 

Any idea what horsepower I will be looking at? The improvement I looking at on dyno seems to be from the camshaft and engine works only. The others are mainly strengthening items like pistons and rods. The flywheel and final drive also does not increase horsepower. Only make acceleration better or lighter.

Edited July 2, 2008 by Xiaogary

[Iliketodrive]

u spend so much $ and u use unichip? super cheapo piggyback.

vttr sux too. taiwan brand

u expect to gain 60hp on wheel? this is impossible, u r playing NA not TC

[Qr25vet]

thats not true...my crank was lightened,knife edged and balanced @ 9000 RPM in singapore... and with a light flywheel be prepared to lose power quickly when going up slopes if yr gear ratios are not matched cos theres not enough momentum...I'd say u'd have like about 130BHP @ the wheel? remember to use a programmable ECU to optimise the setup if not u'll risk blowing your engine...and y not while yea @ it...get a bigger throttle body since your head is ported...or even oversized valves...

Edited July 3, 2008 by Qr25vet

[Jiayong]

Dun expect too much horsepower. You said that improvement shd come from cams and engine works, but just briefly glancing thru your list, only your cams are giving u more power. Everything else doesnt give u power. if previously u are having 99bhp, now i would think if the tuner dun give u false figures, it shdnt be more than 110 or 115.

 

Dude, u really are with a wrong car. I beg to differ when u mentioned its nothing great to be in fast civic. If you have a civic, u can still mod it for diff purposes, like Track or Drag.

 

I dare to say I have spent more on my NA civic for Track that i am able to build at least a 450BHP Civic for drag.

 

But my passion lies in track racing thus just have to bite the bullet, and see no HP improvements when modding the car.

[Xiaogary]

I will post my dyno chart after I run in finish and go for tuning.

 

I am planning to use VTTR becos it seems to be the lightest forged calipers I have seen. Others seems very heavy.

 

Actually there is other mods thats not suitable to be posted here. So 50-60 hp should not be far fetch I think.

 

To the bro who did balancing in singapore, where is it? Can recommend?

[Jiayong]

Good luck on your journey.

 

be it turbo or supercharge or na, make sure u have a goal or idea in mind and dont lose focus.

 

Else, soon u will just be modding to meet pple's expectations rather than for your own.

[Qr25vet]

heres a pic of my crank....it was done @ a machine shop...go to FYC @ AMK ind park there...one of the best in SG although more ex...

http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=1210&image_id=12192

http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=1210&image_id=12191

[Xiaogary]

Cool. Thanks for the pictures. Anyway, collected my baby and ran abt 200km before reaching the tuner. Retuned the unichip and now the idling is better and smoothen, although it still sound grumpy due to the high duration camshaft.

 

Discovered the flywheel is really light. So lucky never lighten the crankshaft. Trying to find a video converter to convert the .3gp video file from my handphone to .mpeg to upload it into internet to show you guys.

 

But noticed one thing. Whenever I rev the engine to 2.5k-3k at first gear, then clutch in fast, if I hold the clutch in there, engine will drop rpm back very fast, sometime drop until 0, like almost want to die engine and knock a bit. Is it normal for lightweight flywheel? Mine mechanic says, when I rev very fast to 2.5k to 3k, the engine reach 3k fast and drop fast also, momentum is not there to maintain the rev due to lightweight flywheel and overall at the crank, so very fast it drop back to 0k if the clutch never engage back. If I change gear fast and clutch out fast, the wheels momentum keep the engine moving and it will catch back very fast and rpm climbs for next gear very smoothly without the hesistation like last time due to heavier crank resistance.

[Sucker]

It is good to upgrade your brake to BBK and change the rubber brake hose to steel braided hose. Remember to get a reasonable tempreture brake pad and rotor.

 

In addition, the car chassis must be strengthed like strut bar, lower arm. Car tyre must be acceptable. Car handling also must improve like the camber arms, ARB....

 

If I were not wrong, it is better to have a stroke up kit with aggressive cam and legal approved exhaust.

 

all the best in your modding! Have fun!

 

Planning to do:

 

1) VTTR mini 6 pot brake caliper and 303mm 2 piece brake disc with ventilated holes.

2) Rear brake disc 256mm.

3) custom made adjustable camshaft venier pulleys

4) upgrade fuel injectors

[Xiaogary]

Yup, I do have goodridge stainless steel brake hose for all 4 wheels, front engine strut bar, front lower tie bar and mid lower tie bar.

 

Also custom made a set of coilovers with adjustable height, preload, compression, rebound, and shock damper hardness adjustable in 32 steps. Camber kit and alignment also changed.

 

A pair of 285 camshafts were already in there. But do not have any venier pulleys yet. Anyone know whether this will cause any problem?

[Xiaogary]

My idling rev now. Only rev until 3k. Still running in. Will show the rev to 5 or 6k after 2000km run in. Just finish tuning at JB yesterday. Tune up to 3k only. Will tune again after run in.

 

Very lumpy idling now due to the high camshaft and overapping of intake and exos.

 

Edited July 6, 2008 by Xiaogary

[Mr_b20]

how many horse u wanna achieve with this car..?

[Xiaogary]

I just completed run in and went for an 0n-the road tuning to set the advances in ignition timing for various mapping. Then went for dyno and gotten 133.9hp.

 

I have yet to custom make a set of adjustable cam pulleys. No workshop willing to do for me. All turn away when they know its a Chevrolet. My tuner adviced me not to change the stock pulleys. He say it is the best for low end power. If I change it, it will increase hp at top range, but low end will not be very driver friendly.

 

Will post the dyno chart once I got my camera back.

[Turbonetics]

Cool. Thanks for the pictures. Anyway, collected my baby and ran abt 200km before reaching the tuner. Retuned the unichip and now the idling is better and smoothen, although it still sound grumpy due to the high duration camshaft.

 

Discovered the flywheel is really light. So lucky never lighten the crankshaft. Trying to find a video converter to convert the .3gp video file from my handphone to .mpeg to upload it into internet to show you guys.

 

But noticed one thing. Whenever I rev the engine to 2.5k-3k at first gear, then clutch in fast, if I hold the clutch in there, engine will drop rpm back very fast, sometime drop until 0, like almost want to die engine and knock a bit. Is it normal for lightweight flywheel? Mine mechanic says, when I rev very fast to 2.5k to 3k, the engine reach 3k fast and drop fast also, momentum is not there to maintain the rev due to lightweight flywheel and overall at the crank, so very fast it drop back to 0k if the clutch never engage back. If I change gear fast and clutch out fast, the wheels momentum keep the engine moving and it will catch back very fast and rpm climbs for next gear very smoothly without the hesistation like last time due to heavier crank resistance.

 

this is very normal.

lighweight flywheel helps to achieve better acceleration because your rpm will climb faster,therefore when you release your accelerator,it will also drop faster.it will happen throughout the whole rpm range not only at low range.

maybe you can get a shortshifter.