Where to do Engine Modification

[Sevnrg]

Anyone know any workshop that can do:

 

1) crankshaft lightening and balancing.

2) balancing of new forged pistons and forged con-rods.

3) Valve spring upgrade.

4) Grinding of camshaft to higher degree duration, abt 285 degree.

5) custom make performance head gasket.

6) install performance head studs kit.

 

 

all these mods that u mentioned have a very high cost to performance ratio.

since you are going NA i tink you are prepared for it?

 

i like it that u are trying to be unique, trying to create a sleeper optra/aveo

 

IMO all these mods are difficult if not impossible to get done in SG.

For me, most of my stuff are from US.

I am considering to fully build my block, although for a different application, but i guess it applies to you.

I would buy a bare block from a local in US, maybe only $100-$200, then send it to an engine builder to fully sleeved, upgrade piston and rod, diamond bored honed polished, lightened knifed polished & balanced crank, hottanked and blueprinted.

Headwork v impt for NA cars, maybe cams, valves, port and polised. Such customised race engines easily costs upwards of USD$6k

 

Infact if your going NA 300hp is very very difficult to achieve for your 1.6l block

 

i know a few places in US that does such customisation of race engines.

but even for k-series hondas going NA route the max max max ppl get is lower 300hps

 

mayb u shld take wat u read with a pinch of salt. i know ppl always say their going to do this & that in the future but only 10% really go ahead with the mods

Edited April 23, 2008 by Sevnrg

[Sevnrg]

The pistons in the pic are the old flat 9.5: 1 low compression pistons (not forged). The new domed & forged pistons 11.6:1 compression are from Wiseco with Moly coated rings for up to 800hp application.

your pistons compressions is way too low for NA. get wiseco to custom 13:1 pistons for you.

 

Although old rods are already forged, but duno how high hp it can withstand. There is one case which it never breaks but bend due to severe knocking in an aveo in Korea. The funny thing is it still can travel at speed above 150km/h only with some strange knocking sound of the rods hitting the cylinder. The new con rods are H-Beams forged also which can withstand up to 900hp application.

why did you buy H-beam rods??? only turbo applications requires such strong rods.

FOr NA i suggest you use back your stock rods.

otherwise get i-beam rods, their lighter and are designed for NA (i.e. their ligher, NOT HEAVIER)

[Sevnrg]

are there even high lift cams for your engine

 

wonder have u bought ur cams yet? by right if u have cams in mind alrdy u shldnt be asking where to get valves springs

Edited April 23, 2008 by Sevnrg

[Qr25vet]

his chevy is not a conti car...its a korean car...

[Xiaogary]

My original is I beam road. Its 700+ grams each. Now this H Beam is only 400g each.

 

I already got my camshafts. Its 1.1mm higher lift than stock. And also I am converting the hydraulic cams system to Solid Lifter system. The cams are now grinded and hard surface treated by a famous tuner in UK. The camshaft is from another Vauxhall 1.6 car. Which share the same bore distance but with higher lift. So can be use for my ride. My 1.4 lift is simply not enough although duration is more important than lift. The duration I am having is 285 degree duration, thats why need to convert to solid lifter kit which eliminate the unconsistency of valve springs and do not need to upgrade spring. Remove it straight away.

 

13.1 compression? So far I have never seen anyone usingh this engine go up that high compression. Do honda engine go up that high compression? No knocking? Or using Octane 105 petrol? I not so rich to run on Octane 105 petrol everyday. The compression I am getting with this set of piston is abt 11.6 to 12.1 because my engine head is shaved before during port and polish.

[Nikolaiski69]

Anyone know any workshop that can do:

 

1) crankshaft lightening and balancing.

2) balancing of new forged pistons and forged con-rods.

3) Valve spring upgrade.

4) Grinding of camshaft to higher degree duration, abt 285 degree.

5) custom make performance head gasket.

6) install performance head studs kit.

 

I like you. You are hardcore with mods AND you like car Audio. Rarely seen combination on this forum. Can tell by the setup that you did alot of research and customization

 

Like you, I have tried the hard way with my Korean hatch to go the NA route but in the end, I've given up. Too little gains for so much money in Singapore. Do it in JB. Go to Visworks or speedworks. They SHOULD know what to do with the car, but then again, they might suggest forced induction. Can trust one

[Sevnrg]

700+ grams for i-beam rods?? for such a small capacity engine?? now thats new to me.

 

no, u dont need to run on 105 octane everyday. a cheap meth inj system could suffice

 

13:1 compression is hardly hardcore given YOUR standards

 

inconsistency of valve springs... wow.

solid lift kit.. easier said than done my fren

 

i think u shld get back in touch with ur that guy in UK and get him to fully build the longblock for you. its cheaper than you trying to diy all the parts together and get some ws in sg to put it together. im sure it will be more professionally done with better reliability too

 

can i ask you a simple question? what is your goal? how many hp do u tink u want?

Edited April 25, 2008 by Sevnrg

[Xiaogary]

Currently only 91 hp on the wheel with only walbro fuel pump, fuel return modification and SARD Fuel Regulator, Tuning with Unichip.

 

Looking at the upgrades, at least should be able to achieve 130hp. With more to come looking at 160hp at least once everything throw in.

 

Just customised a set of BC coilovers with Mitshibishi Colt ralliart Turbo shock tube, Hyundai bottom casing, Camry's front spring, Mitshibishi Lancer rear spring, and customised length adjustable anti-roll linkage rods linking to the shock absorber. The coilover are fully adjustable for height, compression, rebound, preload, shock hardness in 32 level. It costed me a bomb for this custom made coilovers. But the end result is priceless. Even my mechanic was supprised by the performance of the set up.

 

Will be fixing a set of VTTR 303mm brake disc and Mini 6 pot caliper next week which will cost me another bomb for the customisation process. This will hopefully improve my braking power.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 26, 2008 by Xiaogary

[So_nice]

u're hardcore man. live ur dream!

[Genie47]

Don't turbocharge an NA car. Bro been there and done that. After that experience, he'd rather get screwed in the 4ss than go through it again.

[Genie47]

Tell me about your succes with high compression pistons. My "need nuclear fusion to detonate" fuel needs it.

[DarkLord]

Woahz! Bro, you are one of the hardcore modders I've came across!

[Nirxe]

Anyone know any workshop that can do:

 

1) crankshaft lightening and balancing.

2) balancing of new forged pistons and forged con-rods.

3) Valve spring upgrade.

4) Grinding of camshaft to higher degree duration, abt 285 degree.

5) custom make performance head gasket.

6) install performance head studs kit.

 

Can try LTM.

[Vesfreq]

A friend was telling me the same about the NA route. Its just too exp. The best possible NA option on the shelf is probably a jdm ctr or the older jdm tr. Somemore the k20a can do stroke up. Much more aftermarket parts too.

[Koren]

haha.. its a good lesson to be learnt..

[Qr25vet]

LTM?

[Nazaki]

The reason why ppl use civic to mod is because the chasis is good enough to do the mods.

 

Why are there more parts for the civic? cause its 1 of the best platform to do up the car as well.

 

We've all tried, using mazda 323, toyota vios, mitsu lancer, toyota AEs etc..

But these models have lower potential than the B series powered civics.

 

I've seen vios that can eat up a mildly done up rex.. I've seen mazdas that can outsprint turbo cars, there's lancers wif 4G63s inside.. but the cost is high and the potential is limited... A civic can go a long way..

 

All the best for your car! Do keep us update of ur progess. Am excited for you.

If I ever see a fast chevy on the road.. I'll know who the driver is..

[Smhomie]

Sorry to post, but in my opinion, they are not knowledgable enough (in my books) nor do they possess the necessary equipment to perform the tasks at hand.

 

1) Knife edging and balancing - Don't think so.

2) They come balanced, ties in with above point.

3) Simply purchase from reputable brand with right application.

4) NEVER use regrinds. Fresh billet ensures travel tolerances.

5) Have you checked Cometic or Felpro or other makers according to your engine model?

6) Check again for application by calling ARP direct. Do not take shop's word for it.

 

From panel beating, insurance claims, parts replacement, spray painting and now turning their attention to car modifications....

 

Unless they are SAE certified engineers or possess the proper equipment, I'll hip hop skip and pass.

 

Modifications and EFI are a different discipline altogether, if you are talking about aftermarket. This is one of the 1st statements made known to us during my course module at Texas Austin University (better known as Texas A&M).

 

Another shop jumping onto the consumer car wagon... the same happens in US as well actually the market is too profitable to not get into... just that you may not get what you pay for...

 

Good Luck!