2015 Forester 2.0

[Muser]

I am driving the XT.

 

In that case, congrats on getting MI to use the oil explicitly recommended in the Forester owner's manual (5W30 synthetic). It's more challenging for Legacy and Outback owners, since our manuals explicitly recommend 0W20, which I acknowledge is less widely available.

[mrhan1982]

Heavier oil doesn't necessarily mean more protection leh. My understand is that the second number (40) refers to viscosity of engine oil (not coolant, which is what our gauges measure, and which doesn't always correspond to engine oil temp) at full operating temp, while the first number (5) refers to viscosity when starting cold. In short city commutes, many of us won't even reach full operating temp, so what matters more is the cold-start viscosity. Which is why if forced to choose only between 5W30 and 5W40, I'd choose 5W30, no need to think. And what I really want is 0W20 recommended by the Legacy/Outback manual, precisely for the cold-start protection.

 

230kpa all round, eh? Bro, what does your door sill/manual officially recommend ah? Just curious.

 

 

My problem is when entering a covered carpark, my lowbeams don't come on fast enough, and it's at the carpark entrance that I need them the most. Eg, Income@Prinsep carpark entrance is a blind corner. I need the lights on immediately so that the oncoming cars will know to please wait and let me get in first, otherwise both kena stuck then must reverse, dance around, etc.

My door says 230/220 front/rear. Quite Low for 18 inch. Think they lazy so just pump 230 all round. Personally I will pump 240/230.

[Muser]

My door says 230/220 front/rear. Quite Low for 18 inch. Think they lazy so just pump 230 all round. Personally I will pump 240/230.

 

That's what my Legacy door says too. I usually pump 250/240 just to compensate for heat and leakage, but will try 240/230 afterwards.

[inlinesix]

My door says 230/220 front/rear. Quite Low for 18 inch. Think they lazy so just pump 230 all round. Personally I will pump 240/230.

 

My ke kiang lah.

 

What's stock tyre load index?

 

That's what my Legacy door says too. I usually pump 250/240 just to compensate for heat and leakage, but will try 240/230 afterwards.

 

I have Slime tyre repair kit in my car.  So, no need compensate for heat.

[dlys]

My understanding from new owner workshop is that 5W40 is used on FXT in Singapore because of (a) our hot, now even hotter, weather, not like US; and (b) it addresses an issue with the engine burning up oil - there are forum threads about how the FXT needs top up before it is due for servicing. I used lighter oil in my previous drive, but I think I'll just stick to what MI wants to put in it. They use the 5W30 for FNA.

 

For auto light sensitivity, the default factory setting it is at max sensitivity. Same as sensor for wiper. If you want them less sensitive, you can ask MI to adjust during servicing. However, when the battery is changed (or disconnected), it will all reset to factory default.

 

BTW, noticedt the Blackvue had stopped recording a while back. Looks like firmware got corrupted. Working now after firmware update. Recommend to check on it regularly.

[Icecube187]

Yes, my blackvue GPS also stopped working (no light) and MI replaced w a new set.

For sharing : during my 1k KM NA servicing, MI LK used shell helix ultra 5W-30 synthetic. Qty: 4.80L.

 

Any other NA used diff oil?

[Jthl]

Yes, my blackvue GPS also stopped working (no light) and MI replaced w a new set.

For sharing : during my 1k KM NA servicing, MI LK used shell helix ultra 5W-30 synthetic. Qty: 4.80L.

 

Any other NA used diff oil?

Sama sama mi toa payoh.

5-30 syn

[Sarion]

Synthetic oil lah..

This was my 1k servicing. You need to request and insist on 5W30 if you want it. If not they will use 5W40.

 

really dunno what's the fuss you guys are worried about regarding mineral oil.

it's not as if it will damage engines, else they won't be around right?

MI has been doing so since I got my car 7years ago, standard routine first 2 servicing will be mineral oils.

 

if I remember correctly, even some trackies also use mineral oils during the period when they don't go to track, cos they change oil so often (before and after track session), dun want to waste the money on synthetic.

 

if mineral oil can really damage engine, mine won't last > 160k km.

just do your servicing on time at 10k intervals later and dun try and skimp beyond 10k.

 

and pls... no need to waste $ to go to MOTUL lah... not as if you are tracking the Forester...

save the $ and eat better...

[BenTong]

really dunno what's the fuss you guys are worried about regarding mineral oil.

it's not as if it will damage engines, else they won't be around right?

MI has been doing so since I got my car 7years ago, standard routine first 2 servicing will be mineral oils.

 

if I remember correctly, even some trackies also use mineral oils during the period when they don't go to track, cos they change oil so often (before and after track session), dun want to waste the money on synthetic.

 

if mineral oil can really damage engine, mine won't last > 160k km.

just do your servicing on time at 10k intervals later and dun try and skimp beyond 10k.

 

and pls... no need to waste $ to go to MOTUL lah... not as if you are tracking the Forester...

save the $ and eat better...

Motul are meant for high performance. Very good oil. But question one need to ask what is high performance? We drive 50km/hr most of the time(jam so bad nowadays esp on expressways). And once in a while press accelerator.. Don't think that can be considered any where near high performance. Will it protect the engine more than another synthetic oil? Don't think so la.. So agree with your comment bro!! Use the $$$ buy family nice dinners better

[Jthl]

really dunno what's the fuss you guys are worried about regarding mineral oil.

it's not as if it will damage engines, else they won't be around right?

MI has been doing so since I got my car 7years ago, standard routine first 2 servicing will be mineral oils.

 

if I remember correctly, even some trackies also use mineral oils during the period when they don't go to track, cos they change oil so often (before and after track session), dun want to waste the money on synthetic.

 

if mineral oil can really damage engine, mine won't last > 160k km.

just do your servicing on time at 10k intervals later and dun try and skimp beyond 10k.

 

and pls... no need to waste $ to go to MOTUL lah... not as if you are tracking the Forester...

save the $ and eat better...

No fuss no fuss.

I have used schnell and carlube before and it works fine. But on the imprezza.

 

But if mi receipt shows that it is using synthetic oil but in fact not using synthetic, then should fuss.

 

If given a choice to use synthetic oil (more exp) than mineral oil, why not? When it is free. I got more value.

 

So 1st 3 free servicing, can squeeze why not? Not need to help them save $.

[Tohto]

really dunno what's the fuss you guys are worried about regarding mineral oil.

it's not as if it will damage engines, else they won't be around right?

MI has been doing so since I got my car 7years ago, standard routine first 2 servicing will be mineral oils.

 

if I remember correctly, even some trackies also use mineral oils during the period when they don't go to track, cos they change oil so often (before and after track session), dun want to waste the money on synthetic.

 

if mineral oil can really damage engine, mine won't last > 160k km.

just do your servicing on time at 10k intervals later and dun try and skimp beyond 10k.

 

and pls... no need to waste $ to go to MOTUL lah... not as if you are tracking the Forester...

save the $ and eat better...

Nowadays no need mineral oil to run in already for modern engine. Some of the conti brand 1st servicing is at 15,000km.

 

And MI are providing the 1st 3 servicing. So if they are to use the cheap mineral oil for free service, that is really too much.

 

For me I will definitely bring my own oil after 3 servicing. Because I don't like Shell oil.

Edited June 10, 2016 by Tohto

[Muser]

My ke kiang lah.

 

What's stock tyre load index?

 

 

 

I have Slime tyre repair kit in my car. So, no need compensate for heat.

What I meant was that since my stock tyres are pumped with air (I'll do nitrogen on my next set, like my old car), and the petrol station I pump my tyres at is a few hundred metres from my office, I pump slightly higher pressure to compensate for slightly warmed up tyres - aiming for slightly above recommended cold tyre pressure. Also, even though my tyre valves are new, some air will still leak, so pumping a bit more ensures I never fall below recommended pressure. Nothing to do with repair kits or spare tyres what.

[Muser]

really dunno what's the fuss you guys are worried about regarding mineral oil.

it's not as if it will damage engines, else they won't be around right?

MI has been doing so since I got my car 7years ago, standard routine first 2 servicing will be mineral oils.

 

if I remember correctly, even some trackies also use mineral oils during the period when they don't go to track, cos they change oil so often (before and after track session), dun want to waste the money on synthetic.

 

if mineral oil can really damage engine, mine won't last > 160k km.

just do your servicing on time at 10k intervals later and dun try and skimp beyond 10k.

 

and pls... no need to waste $ to go to MOTUL lah... not as if you are tracking the Forester...

save the $ and eat better...

Not fussing for the sake of fussing. Just that:

- If receipt says synthetic, jolly well give me synthetic.

- If the manual you gave me recommends a certain grade synthetic, then give me that, otherwise give me manual for what?

- Dino oil shears, synthetic doesn't, and I like to know that my 0W20 will stay 0W20 till I change it instead of shearing to, say, 5W10. Cuz I'm ngiao like that, and satisfying my ngiaoness makes me feel good.

- Nobody said dino oil will kill your engine, but that's not the point what.

No fuss no fuss.

I have used schnell and carlube before and it works fine. But on the imprezza.

 

But if mi receipt shows that it is using synthetic oil but in fact not using synthetic, then should fuss.

 

If given a choice to use synthetic oil (more exp) than mineral oil, why not? When it is free. I got more value.

 

So 1st 3 free servicing, can squeeze why not? Not need to help them save $.

Yup, and yup, and yup.

Motul are meant for high performance. Very good oil. But question one need to ask what is high performance? We drive 50km/hr most of the time(jam so bad nowadays esp on expressways). And once in a while press accelerator.. Don't think that can be considered any where near high performance. Will it protect the engine more than another synthetic oil? Don't think so la.. So agree with your comment bro!! Use the $$$ buy family nice dinners better

Actually, Motul also makes everyday oil, and that's what MI is offering - not the expensive 300v stuff. And also, definition of harsh driving conditions is:

- start-stop driving

- short trips

- frequent cold starts

 

That characterises Singapore city driving perfectly. Our driving conditions are harsher on engines and oil than highway-heavy driving in the US, etc. It's not about racing or taking your car to the track.

Edited June 10, 2016 by Muser

[BenTong]

Not fussing for the sake of fussing. Just that:

- If receipt says synthetic, jolly well give me synthetic.

- If the manual you gave me recommends a certain grade synthetic, then give me that, otherwise give me manual for what?

- Dino oil shears, synthetic doesn't, and I like to know that my 0W20 will stay 0W20 till I change it instead of shearing to, say, 5W10. Cuz I'm ngiao like that, and satisfying my ngiaoness makes me feel good.

- Nobody said dino oil will kill your engine, but that's not the point what.

Yup, and yup, and yup.

Actually, Motul also makes everyday oil, and that's what MI is offering - not the expensive 300v stuff. And also, definition of harsh driving conditions is:

- start-stop driving

- short trips

- frequent cold starts

 

That characterises Singapore city driving perfectly. Our driving conditions are harsher on engines and oil than highway-heavy driving in the US, etc. It's not about racing or taking your car to the track.

Tried Motul.. Ok la nice la.. But rather spend on food and foot massage

[inlinesix]

What I meant was that since my stock tyres are pumped with air (I'll do nitrogen on my next set, like my old car), and the petrol station I pump my tyres at is a few hundred metres from my office, I pump slightly higher pressure to compensate for slightly warmed up tyres - aiming for slightly above recommended cold tyre pressure. Also, even though my tyre valves are new, some air will still leak, so pumping a bit more ensures I never fall below recommended pressure. Nothing to do with repair kits or spare tyres what.

 

That's why i say use the pump from repair kit.  100% cold.  How can a new tyre valve so ez leak 1?  If yes, u should go back to MI & check.

 

My tyre only pump once a mth when the pressure drops by 10%

[Muser]

That's why i say use the pump from repair kit. 100% cold. How can a new tyre valve so ez leak 1? If yes, u should go back to MI & check.

 

My tyre only pump once a mth when the pressure drops by 10%

Oh I see, you're using your tyre kit's pump for your tyres, which allows you to achieve perfect cold tyre pressure. That's brilliant! I also want. You say you use Slime, issit? Where to buy ah? Ex or not? Do you still have your spare tyre or did you remove it?

 

And I admit, my brand new tyre valves are working extremely well. Minimal leakage. What can I say? I'm very ngiao, and confess that I sometimes just enjoy being ngiao about my car. Even if I don't actually need to be.

Edited June 10, 2016 by Muser

[inlinesix]

Oh I see, you're using your tyre kit's pump for your tyres, which allows you to achieve perfect cold tyre pressure. That's brilliant! I also want. You say you use Slime, issit? Where to buy ah? Ex or not? Do you still have your spare tyre or did you remove it?

 

And I admit, my brand new tyre valves are working extremely well. Minimal leakage. What can I say? I'm very ngiao, and confess that I sometimes just enjoy being ngiao about my car. Even if I don't actually need to be.

Slime Singapore is in Shell Upper Thomson. I don't drive Subaru but my car has no spare tyre.

 

What's the point of over pump? Inflation pressures has to match tyre load index.

[Muser]

Slime Singapore is in Shell Upper Thomson. I don't drive Subaru but my car has no spare tyre.

 

What's the point of over pump? Inflation pressures has to match tyre load index.

Thanks man, I'm going to pay it a visit soon. Hey wait, you've poisoned me!

 

Over-pumping no real harm, but under-pumping can be a problem, especially if you're kiasu and kiasi like me. Since you bring up load index, my 225/50R18 tyres have a 95W load index. Pumped to 230, it will perfectly bear my car's weight + load + passengers. Pumped beyond that, it will still do its job. But if pumped below that, I end up with tyres insufficiently inflated to tahan the load.

 

Another benefit of experimenting with different tyre pressures is seeing how it influences ride quality, noise and handling. Part of getting to know my new car and tyres.

 

I admit that I'm also not used to having new tyre valves that don't leak. My old car was, well, getting old, inside and out. Leaked everything.