Jump to content

Car overheating, need advice


Decibel
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm gonna bring back the car to him tmr, will get him to check the stuff u mentioned. Btw what is your usual reading on ur dashboard temp gauge?

 

maybe let us kw update after going thru with ur mech bro..

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Btw how old is your car........

 

If its a new car then this sort of problem should not occure.

 

If its a old car then anything might happen due to wear and tear............

or you know best what you have done the last time you DIY your car......back track it and you can find the problem..... [rifle][gossip]

 

hahaha...even for new or old car..hard to say..of course for old car the possibility would be much higher..

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

I change my stock from 0.9bar to 1.3bar now the temperature went down slightly than normal..

 

It works fine for me, just a suggestion if you on sales line or drive alot daily..... [thumbsup]

 

Btw i am just driving a Sunny.......... [rolleyes][cool]

==========================

 

Why wud u want to change what the Nissan engineers took years & millions of dollars to develop which will work best for your car? [confused]

Link to post
Share on other sites

(edited)

Its the cooling system. Your engine is not generating more heat. The coolant system is not removing heat efficiently. Same thing happened to my Starlet last time. On highway, cools well. Start-stop, it shot up. I suggest you scrap the whole cooling system and replace it utterly and completely. Hoses, radiator, fan and thermostat.

 

Destroy the problem. With recon parts, I don't think it will cost more than 400. If you want, can buy the recon parts and replace yourself. Its not difficult to remove every thing from the cooling system.

 

You might want to know why I recommend bypassing the troubleshooting. Firstly, it is cheap to replace the whole coolant system. Secondly, your car is old. Might be worthwhile to get recon parts for a new lease of life.

Edited by Genie47
Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

Hmmm!!!!!!

 

Maybe they have spent "MILLioNS on R&D" so end up, the consumer have to bear the loss...

like example : 1) no sound proving, 2)No sturd bar, 3)no Disk brake for both wheels( only for 1.6 and below lah)4) No turbo......and etc....

 

I will think about what you have said.....tks for the advise... [thumbsup]

[bounce1][bounce2][bounce2][bounce1][bounce1]

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie
(edited)

Ok update,

 

Brought the car down again today to check the thermostat, seems it has already been removed. Thus my mech concludes that theres a problem with my head gasket which is causing the overheating. One of the symptoms that my car has is a bubbling of the coolant which can be seen when the engine is running and the radiator cap removed. Apparently there shouldn't be any bubbling. Another much older and seemingly wise mech there had a look and agrees.

 

Cost: Approx $250 for a new head gasket

 

I thought of wiring the fan to run all the time, but after doing it and seeing how fast it spun, decided not to for fear of killing the motor prematurely.

 

Is there however something I can change which would allow the fan to kick in at a lower temperature?

 

 

However all is not lost, I can still drive the car as when the temp reaches slightly above the half mark the fan kicks in and cools things down. I've noticed this myself while driving yesterday, when the temp reached approx 3/4 mark it would soon go down back to 1/2.

 

So what I'm gonna do for now is just get the radiator refilled with new coolant and distilled water. Also I'm gonna try to avoid driving in busy areas like town at peak periods. Will get the gasket and my damn slipping clutch (another $250) changed with my next paycheck [:/]

Edited by Decibel
Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

Does ur temp go up to 3/4 then drop bro? If so, your engine might have the same problem as mine. This shouldn't be happening [shakehead]

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is there however something I can change which would allow the fan to kick in at a lower temperature?

==============================

 

Just change the temp switch for the rad fan to 1 that switches on at a lower temp. Your fan will cut in at a lower temp to help keeping it in check.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

My hoses are fine, no thermostat, and with radiator+fan changed, problem still persists. Thus his diagnosis of gasket wear.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

Ok I asked Ah Ting abt this, but I don't think he has one. Will go elsewhere to get it done. Thanks [;)]

Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe they have spent "MILLioNS on R&D" so end up, the consumer have to bear the loss...

like example : 1) no sound proving, 2)No sturd bar, 3)no Disk brake for both wheels( only for 1.6 and below lah)4) No turbo......and etc....

=============================

 

I guess it depends what the car was made for.

 

If it's day to day driving with reliability, U dont need all those "extra" stuff.

 

U must remember a 1.6 lit jap car is considered a base model economy runabout car.

 

Except in SG where it is considered an Execuetive class car.

 

If u want a sports car, get a sports car. U will prob have all the things u mentioned already built in by the manufacturers.

 

But by the time our gharmen had added ALL those taxes, it wud cost a small fortune here.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Your thermostat is removed? That will explain why the gasket is failing. Include the thermostat when you install the new gasket.

Link to post
Share on other sites

(edited)

Try the spare parts shop a few doors away from Ah Ting. Eng Hup or something like that. [confused]

 

I get quite a bit of my stuff there.

 

U have to remove the present thermo switch & show him & get one that has a lower temp printed on it. But dont get too low as then your engine wont warm up enough & the fan will b running most of the time..

 

Just a couple of degrees lower sud b OK.

 

Dont remove the switch when the engine is hot. Wait till it is fully cold b4 removing.

 

And I also agree with Genie's post above. Re-install the thermo valve for the coolant. That is needed to help stabilise the temp of your coolant.

Edited by Pisces69
Link to post
Share on other sites

(edited)
My hoses are fine, no thermostat, and with radiator+fan changed, problem still persists. Thus his diagnosis of gasket wear.

Check engine oil for dilution,if gasket blown oil dilution will result

check spark plugs, may have tell tale sign

Edited by Sky8807
Link to post
Share on other sites

One of the symptoms that my car has is a bubbling of the coolant which can be seen when the engine is running and the radiator cap removed.

That look like leaking gasket. If can see oil in coolant confirm lead liao. Check the dip stick if engine oil show any foreign substance on the stick.(may show some bubble -- water)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Look for a pipe from the engine to the radiator. There will be a "plug" with 2 wires attached for the rad fan.

 

Ask the mech to remove it if u cannot find it. Different cars got it at different places.

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...