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MAZDA 6


Voxy28
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Hi.. can I have your Salesperson contact? I went Ubi today and was quoted 100800 for standard and 109800 for executive with 3 yrs servicing and warranty.

 

Damn pissed off by this sales guy. Look like was drunk last night and havenât wake up. I left without test drive.

The difference comes from 1y vs 3y servicing
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Thought its weird for 3 years warranty. Usually warranty is 5 years?

TEK still haven't gotten with the game yet around their servicing + warranty packages.

 

Everyone else is offering 5 year warranty + 3 year servicing as standard or at least permanent promotion.

 

Probably realise that their after-sales service is already pretty poor, so don't want to overtax it by increasing their standard warranty.

 

Of course they could do the customer-centric thing of investing in it to make it better, but that will eat into their margins, so they think better not.

Edited by GTO-1
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Just collected my m6 standard yesterday and I’m loving it so far. Coming from a VW scirocco, I find that the m6 is super quiet and comfy while the power is adequate. Swapped the standard 17” for some 19” rims immediately after collection and I have also installed the keyless feature. Given the price, I think that there is really nothing much to complain about the m6.

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Just collected my m6 standard yesterday and I’m loving it so far. Coming from a VW scirocco, I find that the m6 is super quiet and comfy while the power is adequate. Swapped the standard 17” for some 19” rims immediately after collection and I have also installed the keyless feature. Given the price, I think that there is really nothing much to complain about the m6.

How much does it cost to install the keyless entry feature. 

 

I dont mind not having the other features such as lane departure warning system, blind spot monitoring, etc... available in the Executive model

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How much does it cost to install the keyless entry feature.

 

I dont mind not having the other features such as lane departure warning system, blind spot monitoring, etc... available in the Executive model

Hi there, I paid $580 with install and coding. Definitely worth it as the walk away lock feature is super useful.
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Hi there, I paid $580 with install and coding. Definitely worth it as the walk away lock feature is super useful.

Where do you do the install? Any concerns on Trans Eurokar voiding the warranty?

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Where do you do the install? Any concerns on Trans Eurokar voiding the warranty?

Send me a PM, I'll let you know the workshop.

 

Want to mod, don't scared. If scared best to stay stock.

Edited by Onyx
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Kudos to your effort. At the same time, I wonder why Mazda never bother fix this issue ?

 

Two generations back, the Mazda 6 already had this issue.

 

The "sound" is not sporty to begin with. Dull and sterile.

 

Owners that cross over from the Accord and Camry camp would surely find the level of refinement crude.

 

Soundproofed the front floorpan today. Finally ... a peaceful ride

Edited by Davidtkl
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I think Mazda intended it the cabin not to be camry like quiet as it will be a dull and boring drive. We have 5 senses and one of which is the sense of hearing. Hearing the engine sound and tire screeching alerts the senses ... being one with the car engaging all senses ... including the sense of frustration

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I found the Bose system that came with my car lacking in bass although they came with a pair of 9” woofers. Looks big and cool but the bass cmi. I swapped them with 6” woofers and hooked them through an amp tapping the output from the original Bose amp with a step down module. Tried many combinations and finally found that not using crossovers for the mid speaker and using the original tweeter works best with the new 6” woofers. I have also changed to better quality mid speakers. The Bass is solid now and the rear mirror shudders with every beat. I have also tried to hook up the Bose original setup with just an active sub-woofer but found the bass too strong for my liking. Glad I swapped the the crappy Bose woofers.

I found the Bose system that came with my car lacking in bass although they came with a pair of 9” woofers. Looks big and cool but the bass cmi. I swapped them with 6” woofers and hooked them through an amp tapping the output from the original Bose amp with a step down module. Tried many combinations and finally found that not using crossovers for the mid speaker and using the original tweeter works best with the new 6” woofers. I have also changed to better quality mid speakers. The Bass is solid now and the rear mirror shudders with every beat. I have also tried to hook up the Bose original setup with just an active sub-woofer but found the bass too strong for my liking. Glad I swapped the the crappy Bose woofers.

post-168819-0-88029900-1552210319_thumb.jpeg

post-168819-0-49441600-1552210333_thumb.jpeg

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But the tune is not even sporty to begin with. These are mechanical sound which is why we have already seen a lot of owners, at least from here doing their own sound proofing.

 

For example, no one would try and mask the VTEC growl in older Honda cars simply because they are delight to the ears.

 

 

I think Mazda intended it the cabin not to be camry like quiet as it will be a dull and boring drive. We have 5 senses and one of which is the sense of hearing. Hearing the engine sound and tire screeching alerts the senses ... being one with the car engaging all senses ... including the sense of frustration

Edited by Davidtkl
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Agree. The Bose sound system is certainly not worth the premium.

 

Can easily have better sounding sounds from a good audio shop at significantly lower price.

 

I found the Bose system that came with my car lacking in bass although they came with a pair of 9” woofers. Looks big and cool but the bass cmi. I swapped them with 6” woofers and hooked them through an amp tapping the output from the original Bose amp with a step down module. Tried many combinations and finally found that not using crossovers for the mid speaker and using the original tweeter works best with the new 6” woofers. I have also changed to better quality mid speakers. The Bass is solid now and the rear mirror shudders with every beat. I have also tried to hook up the Bose original setup with just an active sub-woofer but found the bass too strong for my liking. Glad I swapped the the crappy Bose woofers.

I found the Bose system that came with my car lacking in bass although they came with a pair of 9” woofers. Looks big and cool but the bass cmi. I swapped them with 6” woofers and hooked them through an amp tapping the output from the original Bose amp with a step down module. Tried many combinations and finally found that not using crossovers for the mid speaker and using the original tweeter works best with the new 6” woofers. I have also changed to better quality mid speakers. The Bass is solid now and the rear mirror shudders with every beat. I have also tried to hook up the Bose original setup with just an active sub-woofer but found the bass too strong for my liking. Glad I swapped the the crappy Bose woofers.

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Agree. The Bose sound system is certainly not worth the premium.

 

Can easily have better sounding sounds from a good audio shop at significantly lower price.

 

 

The problem is you cant just ditch the Bose amp and replace with an aftermarket amp of your choice and expect a seemless plug and play experience. The HU and all other safety functions sounds runs thru the the Bose amp and if you ditch the amp you will have a hard time connecting it with the HU and make everything function properly. Your phone may not even get connected.

 

Hence if you want to upgrade the sound system you still need to retain the Bose amp and run it through a DSP (sound processor) which is going to be costly and requires professional tuning or just replace the woofers and run them through another Amp like what I did. Whatever you do, it wont be a cheap and easy fix. Sigh!

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The problem is you cant just ditch the Bose amp and replace with an aftermarket amp of your choice and expect a seemless plug and play experience. The HU and all other safety functions sounds runs thru the the Bose amp and if you ditch the amp you will have a hard time connecting it with the HU and make everything function properly. Your phone may not even get connected.

 

Hence if you want to upgrade the sound system you still need to retain the Bose amp and run it through a DSP (sound processor) which is going to be costly and requires professional tuning or just replace the woofers and run them through another Amp like what I did. Whatever you do, it wont be a cheap and easy fix. Sigh!ð

Is the Bose amp capable of driving aftermarket speakers easily? Can share what's your setup? Cheers.
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Kudos to your effort. At the same time, I wonder why Mazda never bother fix this issue ?

 

Two generations back, the Mazda 6 already had this issue.

 

The "sound" is not sporty to begin with. Dull and sterile.

 

Owners that cross over from the Accord and Camry camp would surely find the level of refinement crude.

"Zoom Zoom" Sound. [bigcry]  [thumbsup]

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Is the Bose amp capable of driving aftermarket speakers easily? Can share what's your setup? Cheers.

When I talk about aftermarket speakers Im referring to quality aftermarket component speakers costing at least $400 onwards a pair. They are normally rated 80-150w. There are also cheapo aftermarket speakers which sounds worse than stock Bose speakers and Im not talking about those.

 

I tried hooking up the 6” aftermarket speaker directly to the Bose amp and they sounded worse than the Bose stock speakers. The Bose amp is a low power amp and cannot drive 6” component speakers. You will need another amp to do justice to the 6” component speakers. However, for mid 3” speakers and the tweeter, you will need to connect them directly to the Bose amp because the Bose amp has already sorted out the mid frequencies. If you run the mid speaker through an aftermarket crossover, you will get a muffled effect which is worse than the original. It is like running the signal through 2 filters. At least this was my experience. Some gurus may tell u otherwise but you should test and hear it yourself.

 

This is what worked for me:

 

1. Changed front 9” woofers to 6” component speaker. Use the signal from the 9” woofers and connect them through a 150w amp to run the 6” speaker. Connect the aftermarket amp to the Bose amp using a step down module (you need this to cut down the power coming from the Bose amp so that there wont be double amplification of the signal.) Note: the amp is used solely to power the 6” speakers.

 

2. Replaced the mid 3” speaker with an aftermarket mid speaker and connect it directly to the Bose amp. No crossovers.

 

3. Left the Bose tweeter as it is. (Aftermarket tweeters sounded worse.)

 

If you have the Standard Mazda 6 without Bose this setup wont work. You will probably need a DSP.

Here is the Bose 3” mid and aftermarket 3” mid speaker.

post-168819-0-53552500-1552224525_thumb.jpeg

post-168819-0-99156700-1552224863_thumb.png

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