MAZDA 6

[ER-3682]

Checked with Mazda sales so far there is no way to disable it.

Not recommended to do it outside maybe it will affect the warranty

My Chat Group,got someone invented "i-Stuck",that means use a piece of thin Cardboard,stuck between the Buttons & it Work.!

[DonDraper]

just completed my first full tank

 

FC approx. 10.5km/L (self-calculated)

 

90% city/ 10% highway, i-stop off

 

(Lornie Rd traffic is no joke)

Edited September 18, 2018 by DonDraper

[Astralee]

You can use the brake to control,step softly,the i-Stop will not be activated.

I use the brake to do control too. Nothing unsafe. After stopping completely, just relax a bit on your brake.

[richard_crl032]

My Chat Group,got someone invented "i-Stuck",that means use a piece of thin Cardboard,stuck between the Buttons & it Work.!

Hi ER,

 

That is good info ...then it must be a mechanical type to maintain connection.

 

Usually this wun work in other cars cos soft touch button that does not allow such mechanical intervention and there should also be ecu error to indicate faulty SS switch fault since effectively being shorted. In such case even if you can ignore the error displayed and if engine still can starts, it may mask other faults that you wish to be alert to.

 

Mechanical button and no error means viable method and will try out when having it but probably find out more of the disable SS module when collected car to decide.

 

Sure betta than mentioned premature and slow braking to risk/cause accidents.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

I use the brake to do control too. Nothing unsafe. After stopping completely, just relax a bit on your brake.

Hi Astra,

 

You will have to apply brake sooner than required with drivers behind you unwared and certainly unsafe to them, right ?

 

Else how you can relax the brake a bit before completely stopping and yet stop in time ?

 

Else I dunno how you do this effectively against intended design of the brakes.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited September 18, 2018 by richard_crl032

[richard_crl032]

2010 car b in jan was 19k. End up in dec was 70k liao. That yr was the return of the high coe liao. Haiz.

 

I rem back in 2009 new camry was like 80 90k. Hehe. No way will we see such prices liao.

Hi Spurman,

 

Indeed .. even all else the same, 2009 is 9 yrs ago and say compounded 4% inflationary increase is 36% or say 120k for then 90k camry ?

 

100k to 110k for mazda6 is still ok lah especially when another land scarcity related topic on housing was 700/sq ft vs 1.2k/sq ft now .. lol !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[Spurman]

Hi Spurman,

 

Indeed .. even all else the same, 2009 is 9 yrs ago and say compounded 4% inflationary increase is 36% or say 120k for then 90k camry ?

 

100k to 110k for mazda6 is still ok lah especially when another land scarcity related topic on housing was 700/sq ft vs 1.2k/sq ft now .. lol !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Haha. True also..

 

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

 

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

 

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

 

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

 

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

 

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.

So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.

Hi Spurman,

 

Indeed .. even all else the same, 2009 is 9 yrs ago and say compounded 4% inflationary increase is 36% or say 120k for then 90k camry ?

 

100k to 110k for mazda6 is still ok lah especially when another land scarcity related topic on housing was 700/sq ft vs 1.2k/sq ft now .. lol !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Haha. True also..

 

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

 

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

 

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

 

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

 

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

 

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.

So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.

Hi Spurman,

 

Indeed .. even all else the same, 2009 is 9 yrs ago and say compounded 4% inflationary increase is 36% or say 120k for then 90k camry ?

 

100k to 110k for mazda6 is still ok lah especially when another land scarcity related topic on housing was 700/sq ft vs 1.2k/sq ft now .. lol !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Haha. True also..

 

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

 

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

 

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

 

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

 

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

 

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.

So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.

Hi Spurman,

 

Indeed .. even all else the same, 2009 is 9 yrs ago and say compounded 4% inflationary increase is 36% or say 120k for then 90k camry ?

 

100k to 110k for mazda6 is still ok lah especially when another land scarcity related topic on housing was 700/sq ft vs 1.2k/sq ft now .. lol !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Haha. True also..

 

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

 

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

 

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

 

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

 

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

 

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.

So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.

Whoops sorry about the repeat. Dunno what happened the post becomes 4 times.

[Newbie26]

jun 2016 Trade in 55k is dealers price, market asking around 65-68k

some owners are currently asking 70k in sgcarmart

 

You may wish to sell yourself probably can fetch between 60-62k

 

Your parf quote is confusing, you are probably referring to deg value of the car 

 

If you wait 1 year and if coe remains stable, you wont get dealer price at 50k

 

some 3 year old M3 are asking only for 55k.

 

so dont think it  will make much difference whether u sell now or 1 year later, unless coe shoots up next year

 

Haha. True also..

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.
So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.
Haha. True also..

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.
So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.
Haha. True also..

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.
So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.
Haha. True also..

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.
So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.
Whoops sorry about the repeat. Dunno what happened the post becomes 4 times.

 

[S2s1]

Hi Wilson,

 

Sure MAY but there is no such blanket void of warranty .. arguably void some electrical parts but doubt so.

 

Such disable SS module are basically IC controlled module which replace manual pressing of disable SS but more importantly, send back signal to ecu that it is confirmed operation.

 

SS itself damage engine mounts, battery and alternator that may not show up during limited 3 yrs warranty and to me, it is also worthwhile to avoid having to manually disable it every time.

 

Nevertheless, guess ok for most owners to keep do so or simply remove such disable SS module when claiming warranty repair cos unlike ecu tuning, there is no way for Eurokar to tell that you had installed it before.

 

I have done this for qashqai and mon turbo harrier for last 3 yrs.

 

Last but not least, I will rather risk limited warranty void then to risk accident on such recommendation on braking slowing to prevent activating SS .. especially for other innocent drivers on the road behind those who do so ... lol !!

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

 

PS: change rims MAY also void warranty on bearings cos different weight or offset i.e. load even if same weight

Don’t understand the risk of accident if brake slowly. Even without SS, I will brake slowly so that all passengers are comfortable.

[richard_crl032]

Donât understand the risk of accident if brake slowly. Even without SS, I will brake slowly so that all passengers are comfortable.

Hi S2s1,

 

But tot the topic is on not activating SS ?

 

If indeed normal, what is there to control on braking by various method as bros are mentioning ? Hence I can only presume differently and hence the risk .. since differently is not normal.

 

Anyway, hope I am wrong then ...but trying to control braking to prevent SS from being activated makes no sense and risky to me.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited September 18, 2018 by richard_crl032

[richard_crl032]

Haha. True also..

 

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

 

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

 

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

 

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

 

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

 

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.

So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.

Haha. True also..

 

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

 

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

 

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

 

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

 

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

 

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.

So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.

Haha. True also..

 

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

 

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

 

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

 

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

 

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

 

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.

So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.

Haha. True also..

 

Maybe this potential mz6 is for company used. To potentially replace the existing mz3.

 

Mz3 was bought ard 98k. But now trade in offer was 55k. Its a june 16 registered. So lose 43k in like 26 months. Hehe. A bit hard to stomach.

 

Last time buy the mz3 new coz darn. Those 2nd hands altis. Elantras. Mz3 etc all dep pee annumn higher than brand new. Lol. Even today also same. Buy new dep lower per yr. But to really dep that amt per yr, one has to really drive almost fully 10yrs lor. Or the bal no of yrs the car has lor.

 

Thus i am now also taking a small gamble.

 

I see the parf at june 2019 for this mz3 is 46k. Last i chk parf in aug 2018 is 52k.

 

So maybe in june 2019. The trade in value for this mz3 is 46k plus paper say 3k. Say max 4k. Hope 50k lar.

So 3yrs lose 48k easier to stomach than losing 43k im 26mths. Hehe.. a way to console oneself. And provided coe prob still ard todays prices or better still lower down a bit.

Whoops sorry about the repeat. Dunno what happened the post becomes 4 times.

Hi Spurman,

 

Not wrong and not only consoling yourself but depending on 7th year car price.

 

If high then which I believe the case due to govt push on less private car ownership and yet you wish to have one, you may be paying more instead of locking it a lower car price now ... make sense ?

 

In the end, it never make sense also and as long as within reasonableness and can afford now, enjoy 1st lor ...perhaps driving new car and feeling shiok also make you work harder now to have betta career ..keke !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[Daniel0606]

Hi S2s1,

 

But tot the topic is on not activating SS ?

 

If indeed normal, what is there to control on braking by various method as bros are mentioning ? Hence I can only presume differently and hence the risk .. since differently is not normal.

 

Anyway, hope I am wrong then ...but trying to control braking to prevent SS from being activated makes no sense and risky to me.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

The SS will only be activated when the veh comes to a complete stop, so when the veh is still in motion, it is okay to step the brake as hard as one wants. I think the guys are referring to situation for e.g. approaching traffic light or slow moving traffic where most of the time abrupt braking is not required and there is ample time and distance to gradually slow the veh to a complete stop.

[Astralee]

Bros, on the start-stop, drivers of Mazda will understand lah. You brake as per normal, nothing unsafe. Just that when car comes to a complete stop, you dun jam hard on the brake and the ss will not be activated.

 

Turn your display screen to the fuel monitoring app, you can see the message telling you to apply more pressure. By all means do so if you are stopping for a long while, keep your foot light (dun jam it) if moving off soon. Nothing unsafe here.

[richard_crl032]

The SS will only be activated when the veh comes to a complete stop, so when the veh is still in motion, it is okay to step the brake as hard as one wants. I think the guys are referring to situation for e.g. approaching traffic light or slow moving traffic where most of the time abrupt braking is not required and there is ample time and distance to gradually slow the veh to a complete stop.

Hi Daniel,

 

Understand on approachibg traffix lights or slow traffic .. I had 2 cars with SS for last 3 years.

 

Proof of pudding is that there is this discussion on how to control braking to avoid SS activation ... braking is to stop the car at normal "slowness" and not slower just to do so which means premature braking for same diatance and hence the risk especially to cars behind.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Bros, on the start-stop, drivers of Mazda will understand lah. You brake as per normal, nothing unsafe. Just that when car comes to a complete stop, you dun jam hard on the brake and the ss will not be activated.

 

Turn your display screen to the fuel monitoring app, you can see the message telling you to apply more pressure. By all means do so if you are stopping for a long while, keep your foot light (dun jam it) if moving off soon. Nothing unsafe here.

Hi Astra,

 

Brake per normal means no needed discussion leh ... dun need mazda owners to understand that.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

Edited September 19, 2018 by richard_crl032

[tweek79]

Agree with astralee on using light braking to control istart, which kicks in only after car comes to a stop. No need to worry about not braking enough to stop the car in time, when the car is still in motion you can brake as hard as you want. In fact I maintained the same braking style as how I have been driving all along, istop only kicks in when I stop on a steep slope (have to step harder on the brakes), which is rare so quite bearable.

 

Try it when you take over the car and you will know what we mean.

[richard_crl032]

Agree with astralee on using light braking to control istart, which kicks in only after car comes to a stop. No need to worry about not braking enough to stop the car in time, when the car is still in motion you can brake as hard as you want. In fact I maintained the same braking style as how I have been driving all along, istop only kicks in when I stop on a steep slope (have to step harder on the brakes), which is rare so quite bearable.

 

Try it when you take over the car and you will know what we mean.

Hi Tweek,

 

Thanks but nothing to try or to be concern with nor needing discussion/recommendation to "brake slowly" if indeed no change in braking style, right ?

 

No, I do not jam brake at junction or slow traffic to risk hitting car in front and my own cars.

 

It simply does not make sense or risky or even not responsible to make recommendation play around with how to control braking to circumvent this SS activation.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited September 19, 2018 by richard_crl032

[tweek79]

Huh, I didn't say anything about braking slowly. Just echoing what astralee said about managing istop in a safe way is very possible.

 

I think it's enough discussion on the istop now. Shall we move on. Talk about something else, the weather maybe.

Edited September 19, 2018 by tweek79

[richard_crl032]

Huh, I didn't say anything about braking slowly. Just echoing what astralee said about managing istop in a safe way is very possible.

 

I think it's enough discussion on the istop now. Shall we move on. Talk about something else, the weather maybe.

[Toon_army]

I may have no skill to control the brakes. I always trigger the istop if I forget to deactivate it, especially when I stop to engage reverse gear for parking. Habit of pressing hard for complete stop to prevent damage during gear change.

The Latest Model is a tad heavier,with more Sound Deadening material....so it used a bit more fuel.

Thanks. I just trying to find some excuses to console myself that the pre-FL I got was the better deal.