Mazda engine electrical system problem

[Route88]

Try do the simple stuff first like checking ur fuel line or change the fuel filter.

If still persist,then try as what other bros recommend.

[Yeobh]

Since the check engine light or MIL is not lighted up chance the on-board computer may have not sense any variation in the standard pre set incoming voltages and freguency. If there is, it will flagged the patricular circuit and the check engine light will light up. With the OEM Mazda dignostic fault code reader, chance you may be able to download a P0xxx code indicating the possible problem may have occurred in certain system.

 

For Mazda cars manufatured in Japan , aftermarket fault code reader ( aka scanner ) may not communicate very well with the on-board computer - the end result is you may download " rubbish" which are of not diagnostic value at all.

 

I reckon you should start off by simply check the engine ignition timing at idle speed. If the timing is far too advance then the next step is to have a look at the camshaft and crankshaft sensor voltage. If all are ok , the cuprit maybe the timing belt setting.

 

Have a nice weekend.

Edited December 8, 2006 by Yeobh

[Kianbeng]

Last time I drove a MB model 123. $1.4k was the cheapest. Got 1.5K, 1.6K, 1.8K. Really called all the MB spare parts shop that time. Anyway, in sg only a few big ones.

[Kianbeng]

Carburettor interchangeable one meh? Mine was MB model 123. 2Litre. Got compatible model?

 

Last time when I checked, there's alot of OEM brands for the carburettor lor. And $1.4K was the cheapest brand. Only needed to use it for like another 2 years before COE was expiring. Last time COE only $8K....and if we bought the COE earlier, its only few hundred dollars.

[Kianbeng]

Fuel line? Hmmm why? I'm not expert....but if it's a fuel line problem, it should have different characteristics of problem. ie, idling going up and down, or basically irratic idling, or when you press the accelerator, the idling seems to get worse....

 

Anyway, the fuel filter was changed maybe 40-50K ago also.

[Kianbeng]

Hi Yeobh,

 

You got open workshop or not? PM me and I'll send my car to you for diagnostics. Already learnt so much from you. Need to pay some sch fees leh.

 

You got the fault code reader for M323?

 

Actually, I'm in electronics line. If I have the specs for the ECU, I *should* be able to buy the parts (chips) off the shelves (from RS or Farnell) and build 1 "scanner" to read the ECU. Actually these isn't rocket science unless Mazda have a special proprietary code that prevents us from doing so. But then again, it's probably hard to get the specs for the ECU. I don't think the schematics are freely available bah?

[Apollo]

it's ur EGR soleniod. same problem as me. 1st get ur mechanic to trace where this is located. next time when the sound comes back pop open the bonnet, use the back of ur fingers to feel it. why? becos if it gets too hold, u will naturally curl ur fingers inwards to grasp it. using the back will curl away to safety

 

but i betcha u will feel the knocking coming fr tat canister.

 

solution? use higher octane gas if u r using ron92, esp fr spc. try esso 95.

[Kianbeng]

Oh! Which one is my EGR Solenoid? Need to trace it first. Btw while doing so, I saw this error codes for Mazda!

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/mazda/

 

I only use RON95 in SG. Actually got once my sis pump wrong petrol RON92. But I tried many rounds of RON97 and V-Power to clear it....don't tell me unless the RON92 caused some damage already? I thought it'll just cause pinging at most and the engine temp increases.....but after you use back RON95, 97, ....should be ok liao?

[Kianbeng]

Suddenly I'm so keep to import the scanner from US. So cheap! Don't have to waste time fiddling with circuit boards and components! All I need to do now is to ensure my car is OBDII compliant and also to check what protocol they are using. Probably ISO "9141-2".

 

Hmm very interesting!

[Apollo]

octane is one problem if u hv high revv ur engine it may cause this over pressure buildup. but it is not engine knocking. just tat the soleniod not switching properly.

 

my problems go away after switching fr spc ron92 even though i am allowed to use ron90

[Kianbeng]

Your prob went away after switching from RON92? Me only used it like once. maybe $40 worth. After that no more. Maybe $40 is too much.

[Pisces69]

Last time I drove a MB model 123. $1.4k was the cheapest. Got 1.5K, 1.6K, 1.8K. Really called all the MB spare parts shop that time. Anyway, in sg only a few big ones.

=====================

 

Hahaha. Oh MB. That explains it.

 

Anyway now u can try the scrapyards. Plenty of MB spares for u to choose from. Almost like a Jap car.

 

If your MB carb is giving problems, try the "repair Kit" first. A much cheaper alternative than a new replacement MB carb.

 

$1.4K, Phew.

[Kianbeng]

ya first time I didn't know theres such a "repair kit". But then the mechanic said my carb was in extremely bad condition already.

 

Anyway, after I changed, the 2nd carb was good. But about 1 year later, the gasket was broken and it's not very good again. This time, the repair kit works. Back to new again for quite some time.

 

I did went around to look for carbs in scrap yard but all the condition was a big question mark also and they weren't that cheap I remembered.

[Kianbeng]

Oh dear. My car's diagnostics doesn't seems to be the standard OBDII connector. Look at this.

 

Couldn't find the OBDII below the steering wheel. Then I saw 1 forumer in some Astina forums commenting that his OBDII is near the battery. So I checked and found a small box that reads "Diagnostics" on the outside.

 

Realised my regular cheapo mechanic also got a OBDII scanner. The brand is Scan007 or something. But unfortunately he don't have this funny connector.

Edited December 10, 2006 by Kianbeng

[Genie47]

Carburetor all interchangeable one. As long as got adaptor plate, jetted for the displacement of the car, can use already. That's the magic of it all. The carburetor is the "universal ECU". Sometimes no need adaptor plate because can bolt on direct.

 

MB carburetors are usually Strombergs. The Weber 32/35DGAV or DGEV are the best ones money can buy. You can use Weber jets if you got the jetting kit. If need adaptor, just slap it on. Know your engine's displacement then fit the correct jets and you are ready to go.

Edited December 11, 2006 by Genie47

[Rickster]

He has more or less nailed it. Now you know why DOHC is more expensive to maintain. Two cams = double the trouble.

 

 

Thats why i dont like DOHC and timing belt

 

Then go rotary engine!

[Law_ong]

protege dun use OBDII..it uses the old diagnostic system...where it uses light to indicate the fault...my mechanic show me the manual he had and told me he still can diagnose protege ecu coz its outdated... he did not buy diagnostic tool coz he claimed he not into doing repairing for any particular brand, invest in the system is too costly...rather do the mechanical..

[Yeobh]

Looks like my remote diagnosing is far way out - I did not realise your car is carburated and have distributor. Ok since it have both ,therefore there is not camshaft and crankshaft sensors fitted. What you mech have to do is to check the timing and if necessary release the distributor and either manually rotate clock or clockwise to ge the the timing setting as per specification ( normally is baout 7deg Before Top Dead Centre)

 

Yr rid's diagnostice socket is an old version before ISO/SAE standardisation on diagnotic socket. Durin the eraly days - US cars are using OBD1 and European have few version - MB ,BMW , VAG all use differenct type of sockets.Similarly all the 4 jap car makers use thier own prioperiotary sockets - testing is done by counting LED light bliking.