MAZDA 6

[Lockkeng]

I feel that it is what. My older Cefiro 2.0L V6 is already quite close to that. Then subsequently the Cefiro 2.3L V6 is sub-10 le.

 

The Toyota Prius subsequently was much longer than 10 but still acceptable given what it's good at.

 

These days a 1.5L Turbo, 2.5L NA or 2.0L Turbo all can achieve sub-10.

 

Indeed, a 1.0T can do 10s flat with a 20km/l fuel economy (paper specs) from Skoda/VW. 

 

Mazda needs to put in better engines for Singapore. 

[andrewyewkc]

That technique requires a lot of anticipatory driving, and making sure there's enough leeway between yourself and the vehicle ahead of you.

I think the added advantage of anticipatory driving is an increase in safety as this forces you to anticipate not only current traffic condition but also other drivers' possible erratic behaviour and road condition ahead.

[DK3410]

I think the added advantage of anticipatory driving is an increase in safety as this forces you to anticipate not only current traffic condition but also other drivers' possible erratic behaviour and road condition ahead.

 

Yes, indeed that was an incidental benefit derived from that driving style.

 

 

 

My hantam and coast technique also not bad. Can get 8 to 8.2 km/L. But sport mode and coast doesn't work freaking rpm maintain so high.

 

Er, when using sport mode the key thing is shiok-ness, not so much about fuel economy le.

 

 

Edited January 22, 2019 by DK3410

[Amator207]

Hi Amator,

 

Aaah .. qashqai 1.2 turbo owner turned or added mazda 2.0 owner :) Paiseh paiseh but 250 qashqai bros in our qashqai group and cannot put a face to anyone with the nick "Amator".

 

Short response is that there are usd10 obd extension cable from aliexpress to plug in both delete i-stop and pivot ethrottle .. I daisy chain 2 of these 1-3 extension cables to 5 obd modules in my forester without issue but we need to ensure modules that does not turn off do not exceed 100ma in total else we end up with flat battery .. especially those cheap usd5 BT modules used commonly for torque or dashcommander apps.

 

Long version of comments are:

- racechip being ecu piggyback is only for turbo charged car like our qashqai 1.2

- it allows non factory turbo boost pressure with needed and suitable air/fuel ratio adjustment

- While it increases power and torque unlike ethrottle that only recalibrate throttle response to your desire, it is more significantly felt in high rpm situation of >>3.5k

- lastly, buyer of your piggyback for qsshqai MIGHT be able to just buy harness for another different car .. contact local distro, United c/o William, to find out .. I lelong my forester xt racechip to buyer who fitted into his conti ride

- not familiar with D1 Spec if indeed obd but I trust no other but MIJ pivot and used 2 of them for >10 yrs because I had seen many cases of your mentioned ecu error with other MIT and MIC clones .. the one in my forester is from scrapped estima for 10 yrs

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Sounds like Pivot is really lasting!

Trying to understand how you daisy chain all to OBD . Doesn’t it get confused with so many competing signals.?

[richard_crl032]

Sounds like Pivot is really lasting!

Trying to understand how you daisy chain all to OBD . Doesnât it get confused with so many competing signals.?

Hi Amator,

 

Hence I dare vouch for pivot ethrottle .. 2 old thicker version from Estima and Nissan Sunny of >10 yrs liao .. newer ones are a) thin and compact one at 350 from mcwell and b) low cost horizontally mounted ones at 105 from japan without shipping and installation.

 

Obd modules are primarily just reading the ecu and bcm signals and not writing them e.g. speed for bsm and tailgate kick sensor, torque/dashcommander apps via bt module while pivot ethrottle is just using the most stable dc source .. you still have to connect to throttle connector near accelerator pedal as well as calibrate it and hence different harness for different cars with different throttle connectors.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited January 22, 2019 by richard_crl032

[richard_crl032]

This is fantastic FC for a 2.0 car.

Hi Sop,

 

Bro DK's is a 2.5l mazda 6 .. keke !

 

However, city/hwy ratio and driving style rules and fc discussion for reference only ... my CO does managed 8km/l with her 3.3k km odometered mazda 6 2.0 despite usual jam at lornie road every morning and evening. Kaki's forester xt can do 10l/km while I struggle with 8l/km ..lol !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited January 22, 2019 by richard_crl032

[EdwinLee_146267]

I just had the Mazda 6 2.0 for 6 months and have made the following observations on FC:
 
1. City driving with lots of traffic lights - 8-8.5l/100km
2. 80% highway driving (SG highway not exceeding 90kmph - 6.8-7.2l/100km
3. Malaysian highway btw 110kmph-140kmph 6.8l/100km (managed to get 731km for a tank)

 

[Alphaev7]

Just collected my Mazda 6 2.5L (2017) today.

 

Do you guys use the iStop feature or turn it off?

Edited January 22, 2019 by Alphaev7

[richard_crl032]

Just collected my Mazda 6 2.5L (2017) today.

 

Do you guys use the iStop feature or turn it off?

Hi Alpha,

 

Not sure if it works for 2.5 but aliexpress disable istop module works.

 

I have no wish for istop and not interested in saving the world of emission or willing to be subjected to this car mgfrs' BS at the expense of irritating restart and accelerated wear n tear.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[EdwinLee_146267]

Agree. I think the fuel that you could potentially save will be less than the cost of replacing your starter motor and engine mountings. Of course, if you ask Mazda they will tell you it is good for 200k cycles .... I used to leave it on and let it kill the engine 5-6 times a day. Now I'm getting into a habit to turn it off when I start my car.  

[Alphaev7]

I think i can turn it off from the applications menu, no? Will try again tomorrow.

 

I’m gonna be travelling in/out of Malaysia quite a bit. Wonder if it will be useful during the jam?

Edited January 22, 2019 by Alphaev7

[SZ_ford]

Just collected my Mazda 6 2.5L (2017) today.

 

Do you guys use the iStop feature or turn it off?

I do use start/stop. But im not driving mz6. Some traffic light can be a minute long. I sure that will save some fuel.

 

Only during traffic jam, i will switch it off. Engine on off every few seconds can be annoying

[ER-3682]

Agree. I think the fuel that you could potentially save will be less than the cost of replacing your starter motor and engine mountings. Of course, if you ask Mazda they will tell you it is good for 200k cycles .... I used to leave it on and let it kill the engine 5-6 times a day. Now I'm getting into a habit to turn it off when I start my car.  

Mazda Start/Stop don't use the Starter...on my Start/Stop since new in 2013,until now already clocked 370 Hours of "Stop" time...

[richard_crl032]

I think i can turn it off from the applications menu, no? Will try again tomorrow.

 

Iâm gonna be travelling in/out of Malaysia quite a bit. Wonder if it will be useful during the jam?

Hi Alpha,

 

I am not aware of car having option to turn of istop and hence many aftermkt solution like the one I bought from aliexpress that does so.

 

Heard BMW used to disable it for owners upon request but had stopped doing so for last few years .. they may be flouting the law since emission will be affected and does not comply with declared figure.

 

I also just learnt mazda 6 few weeks ago after reading mazda website does not engage starter for istop but indeed wear n tear including engine mounting, aircon compressor etc., the rumbling and aircon being off for each cyclen in nice hot Singspore weather make me want to spend just tens of dollars for the istop disable module and glad to have found it as recommended by one bro here.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited January 23, 2019 by richard_crl032

[S2s1]

I think i can turn it off from the applications menu, no? Will try again tomorrow.

 

Iâm gonna be travelling in/out of Malaysia quite a bit. Wonder if it will be useful during the jam?

In the application Fuel Monitoring menu, you will see your start/stop duration, FC and fuel saving (many trees) only.

The iStop can be disabled by pressing (and hold till hear beep) a butting at your dash right bottom.

I always off start/stop at Causway, knowing that every one meter need to full stop, and restart after few seconds only.

For normal days, you can try with your foot pressure. You can stop the car without activating the iStop.

If you activate auto hold, the brake pressure has two stages, first the car auto hold activated, at this point I can release my foot and it auto hold but not iStop. If after first stage u give pressure to press to the end, istop will kick in.

Edited January 23, 2019 by S2s1

[DK3410]

For me, switching off i-Stop is reflex. I do it immediately after starting the engine.

 

I only re-activate it when the light turns red just as I stop at the junction. Because there is research that shows engine start-stop only starts to save you petrol when the engine is off for more than 7 seconds (ballpark).

 

If your engine is stopped for shorter than 7 seconds, the amount of petrol spent to restart the engine is greater than what you'd save for that few seconds the engine remains off.

 

In reality, engine start-stop systems don't save much petrol because modern engines don't consume much petrol when idling. They consume WAY MORE when you're accelerating, hard.

 

So you're misguided if you accelerate hard off the line at the traffic lights after the i-Stop has been active for 30 seconds, because the petrol you're consuming with the hard acceleration greatly exceeds what you'd have saved.

 

Easy way to think about it:
Your foot is connected to a tap, and that tap is connected to your fuel tank. The harder you step, the faster your tank (and wallet) empties.

[Davidklt]

I don’t not think iStop was designed with fuel savings in mind given that the few teaspoons of fuel it saved. But I recall reading a piece before the SkyActiv series of engine is launched that Mazda wanted to build something that is environmentally friendly as well.

[DK3410]

I don’t not think iStop was designed with fuel savings in mind given that the few teaspoons of fuel it saved. But I recall reading a piece before the SkyActiv series of engine is launched that Mazda wanted to build something that is environmentally friendly as well.

 

Yes. The whole premise behind i-Stop and other similar systems on other cars was to cook the books on emissions testing overseas.

 

The real engineering smarts in the Skyactiv engines lies in their high compression ratio.

 

A higher compression ratio means greater thermal efficiency of the engine, as it can extract more useful thermodynamic work from a given amount of fuel injected into it. Unfortunately, as a side-effect it also means higher chance of knocking (premature fuel ignition) which can cause catastrophic damage to the engine. The smart part is to find a good balance.