MAZDA 6

[Wt_know]

Either you are very young, or you are not a car enthusiast.

sorry my bad ...

when i was younger i can only afford vios

so i am not ignorant ... vtec powderful

Edited January 20, 2019 by Wt_know

[SZ_ford]

U referring to Madza only?

 

Honda VTEC 1.6 can hit that easily sub 8sec

What about 1.5l turbo civic?

[Shimo]

No need to wait to Mid Jan,give me your number,add you now,you can ask about the Car...

Bro can add me ,just ordered a mazda6 wagon today .

[richard_crl032]

Honda engine B16 B18 are all sub 8 sec since mid 90

 

EK4 1.6 NA is 7.2 sec and that was in 1996. Before this those EG 6 oredi 8 sec

 

Now i believe is emission standard tighter so use smaller engine with turbo.

Hi Ody,

 

Indeed tighter emission standard with power robbing cvt vs 5/6 speed, non leaded vs lead as well as catalytic vs free flow exhaust.

 

Moreover, then cars were primitive without gadgetries like abs, ventilated seats, electric tailgates, electric seats, inefficient aircon compressor etc. power to weight ratio = speed.

 

Indeed Honda was a driver car on handling, braking powess but they were also tin cans like light weight flying coffin crx ..

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[richard_crl032]

Mazda really needs to be fast in their cars...or else it will be name as a bunch of slow cars by the turbo power cars.

Hi Best,

 

In at least this mazda 6 thread, there is already 2.5l turbo mazda 6 but simply not brought in by AD for obvious reason.

 

Meanwhile my 2017 Oct forester xt is a collectable now since Subaru Japan foresee future trend with new 2019 forester that is only NA .. and they have all the facts that only pocket of hardcore forester owners wanting turbo charged foresters and invested on their first forester hybrid instead.

 

Think nissan already boldly announced no more purely petrol but only hybrid or fully electri cars in couples of years' time.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[richard_crl032]

U referring to Madza only?

 

Honda VTEC 1.6 can hit that easily sub 8sec

Hi Ody,

 

Believe nobody like to drive nowadays at >5k rpm like raceboys where vtec opens up in at least some of honda rides and starts to gulp petrol.

 

Guess mazda 6 is wanting on driveability and more torque at reasonable FC than absolute power for top speed and 0-100kmhr that few new car owners bothers.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

[Thaiyotakamli]

Wonder hows the fc for mazda 6 2.0L and 2.5L?

[ER-3682]

Bro can add me ,just ordered a mazda6 wagon today .

Sure,but must able to stand 500 Messages a Day..We got over 200 Members there...PM me if want to join.

[Shimo]

Sure,but must able to stand 500 Messages a Day..We got over 200 Members there...PM me if want to join.

Bro 87529031

[Amator207]

Hi Szekt,

 

Similar but it has 3 modes of eco, normal and sport and 5 and 7 varying degrees of effects for eco and sport modes to select to your preference.

 

It also stays with chosen setting unlike stock sport mode when you restarts your car.

 

Basically, it takes the stock response of your accelerator and sensitises it ... reverse defaults to normal mode if you wire it accordingly.

 

Distractors argue that it is no different from using your feet to push faster but my thinking is that nobody's right foot will be as fast or as accurate as electrons running down a wire.

 

https://pivotjp.com/product/thf_c/thf-e.html

 

One caveat, it is addictive and your FC will suffers cos stock setting is optimise for FC and driveability ... but it does provide nice option especially up north where petrol is cheap and safety is top priority.

 

Chèers.

 

Richard

Having used e-throttle Controllers on 2 cars and removed them before selling off, I can say that it different from pressing harder to achieve same results.

The results are different because one doesnt have to make the extra effort and added time taken to get to that position of throttle- ie. pressing and then finding lack of power and then pressing even harder takes time!

Edited January 21, 2019 by Amator207

[DK3410]

Wonder hows the fc for mazda 6 2.0L and 2.5L?

 

Am averaging about 8.0 L/ 100 km at present.

 

Now is mainly small-road driving, minimal highway, frequent short-trips. It just kills the fuel economy...

 

Previously when I just got the car (was on long leave then), was doing a lot of highway trips during non-peak hours. Could easily hit 7.1 to 7.3 L/ 100 km, and mine is 2.5L some more...

 

Perhaps need to change driving style a bit as well. Am too used to "pulse then coast" which was a habit picked up from the Prius.

Edited January 21, 2019 by DK3410

[richard_crl032]

Having used e-throttle Controllers on 2 cars and removed them before selling off, I can say that it different from pressing harder to achieve same results.

The results are different because one doesnt have to make the extra effort and added time taken to get to that position of throttle- ie. pressing and then finding lack of power and then pressing even harder takes time!

Hi Amator,

 

Understand ... ethrottle does not increases power or torque but mazda 6 at least the 2.0 that I am driving has retarded response in my opinion not unlike having ethrottle with setting at eco mode and hence the thinking.

 

For turbo charged car, there is a max torque at certain rpm and this helps timing since you reach this rpm of max torque faster albiet some impact on gear ratio .. hence I feel and know that it is faster which distractors do not agree.

 

For me ethrottle makes a difference for sure but yes, judging from many sellers like yourself getting back fraction of 350 for pivot ethrottle, some finds it not as useful or at least not worthwhile with the expected increased FC.

 

In a nutshell, chiongsters with heavy foot already and having bigger expectation are likely sellers but for those like myself knowing its limits, it is a keeper with good optional setting to your driving style and all with in cabin comfort and default reaponse changed to preferred setting.

 

Btw, were your pivot brand or many other clones that even created engine check issue .. pls note pivot using obd which concern some but it is really only for dc power and their rationale is that it is most stable dc power available .. not from battery that may fluctuates.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited January 21, 2019 by richard_crl032

[andrewyewkc]

Perhaps need to change driving style a bit as well. Am too used to "pulse then coast" which was a habit picked up from the Prius.

 

I think "pulse then coast" is a good technique as you want acceleration to get to destination faster and then natural deceleration as you may need to eventually stop. While a slow acceleration + constant speed style may be more fuel efficient, it will be a slower drive.

[Sopskysalat]

This is fantastic FC for a 2.0 car.

 

Am averaging about 8.0 L/ 100 km at present.

 

Now is mainly small-road driving, minimal highway, frequent short-trips. It just kills the fuel economy...

 

Previously when I just got the car (was on long leave then), was doing a lot of highway trips during non-peak hours. Could easily hit 7.1 to 7.3 L/ 100 km, and mine is 2.5L some more...

 

Perhaps need to change driving style a bit as well. Am too used to "pulse then coast" which was a habit picked up from the Prius.

 

[DK3410]

I think "pulse then coast" is a good technique as you want acceleration to get to destination faster and then natural deceleration as you may need to eventually stop. While a slow acceleration + constant speed style may be more fuel efficient, it will be a slower drive.

 

"Pulse then coast" works really well on the Prius, because when you pulse, the motor kicks in to assist the small engine.

 

When you coast, the engine actually shuts off, and the kinetic energy is used to recharge the battery. I could achieve 4.4 L/ 100 km without breaking a sweat on the 2nd generation Prius using that technique, and it has stuck.

 

That technique requires a lot of anticipatory driving, and making sure there's enough leeway between yourself and the vehicle ahead of you.

Edited January 21, 2019 by DK3410

[Sherman_s]

My hantam and coast technique also not bad. Can get 8 to 8.2 km/L. But sport mode and coast doesn't work freaking rpm maintain so high.

[Amator207]

Hi Amator,

 

Understand ... ethrottle does not increases power or torque but mazda 6 at least the 2.0 that I am driving has retarded response in my opinion not unlike having ethrottle with setting at eco mode and hence the thinking.

 

For turbo charged car, there is a max torque at certain rpm and this helps timing since you reach this rpm of max torque faster albiet some impact on gear ratio .. hence I feel and know that it is faster which distractors do not agree.

 

For me ethrottle makes a difference for sure but yes, judging from many sellers like yourself getting back fraction of 350 for pivot ethrottle, some finds it not as useful or at least not worthwhile with the expected increased FC.

 

In a nutshell, chiongsters with heavy foot already and having bigger expectation are likely sellers but for those like myself knowing its limits, it is a keeper with good optional setting to your driving style and all with in cabin comfort and default reaponse changed to preferred setting.

 

Btw, were your pivot brand or many other clones that even created engine check issue .. pls note pivot using obd which concern some but it is really only for dc power and their rationale is that it is most stable dc power available .. not from battery that may fluctuates.

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Hi Richard,

Hope to have an understanding of Piviot and plugging into OBD.

Slight confusion in my wording earlier, I removed the controllers before selling the cars. Controllers are still with me...

One is a Racechip ( I think you may know who I am now :)

It can’t be used for any other model except for specific qashqai.

The other is actually D1Spec. Both were installed by another enthusiast driver in my family. The D1Spec actually replaced another brand (which seemed not to work well with run of mill Toyota Altis and caused issues in having loss of power after few weeks and having to reset ecu. ThenD1 Spec did not have this issue. We are thinking of using it again on our replacement cars.

 

Back to Pivot, you say it plugs into OBD. If this is the case, would the plug-in Delete I-Stop module for Mazda be inoperable as that plugs into OBD port as well?

 

Cheers

Edited January 21, 2019 by Amator207

[richard_crl032]

Hi Richard,

Hope to have an understanding of Piviot and plugging into OBD.

Slight confusion in my wording earlier, I removed the controllers before selling the cars. Controllers are still with me...

One is a Racechip ( I think you may know who I am now :)

It canât be used for any other model except for specific qashqai.

The other is actually D1Spec. Both were installed by another enthusiast driver in my family. The D1Spec actually replaced another brand (which seemed not to work well with run of mill Toyota Altis and caused issues in having loss of power after few weeks and having to reset ecu. ThenD1 Spec did not have this issue. We are thinking of using it again on our replacement cars.

 

Back to Pivot, you say it plugs into OBD. If this is the case, would the plug-in Delete I-Stop module for Mazda be inoperable as that plugs into OBD port as well?

 

Cheers

Hi Amator,

 

Aaah .. qashqai 1.2 turbo owner turned or added mazda 2.0 owner :) Paiseh paiseh but 250 qashqai bros in our qashqai group and cannot put a face to anyone with the nick "Amator".

 

Short response is that there are usd10 obd extension cable from aliexpress to plug in both delete i-stop and pivot ethrottle .. I daisy chain 2 of these 1-3 extension cables to 5 obd modules in my forester without issue but we need to ensure modules that does not turn off do not exceed 100ma in total else we end up with flat battery .. especially those cheap usd5 BT modules used commonly for torque or dashcommander apps.

 

Long version of comments are:

- racechip being ecu piggyback is only for turbo charged car like our qashqai 1.2

- it allows non factory turbo boost pressure with needed and suitable air/fuel ratio adjustment

- While it increases power and torque unlike ethrottle that only recalibrate throttle response to your desire, it is more significantly felt in high rpm situation of >>3.5k

- lastly, buyer of your piggyback for qsshqai MIGHT be able to just buy harness for another different car .. contact local distro, United c/o William, to find out .. I lelong my forester xt racechip to buyer who fitted into his conti ride

- not familiar with D1 Spec if indeed obd but I trust no other but MIJ pivot and used 2 of them for >10 yrs because I had seen many cases of your mentioned ecu error with other MIT and MIC clones .. the one in my forester is from scrapped estima for 10 yrs

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

Edited January 21, 2019 by richard_crl032