Auto gearbox maintenance

[Baal]

Recently, I also get the slight jerk from 1st to 2nd gear. But its only when starting the car 1st thing in the morning or after work in evening.

 

In both instances, it only applies to the first time moving off in cp. After that smooth liao.

 

After that say if I go park somewhere for dinner for an hour. Then start the car again, I do not experience the slight jerk.

 

Pink tranny oil is now used at 24.4k. ( color is yellowish pink) Should I flush or just drain & refill ?

Edited March 10, 2014 by Baal

[Astralee]

 

Me having same issue with my ride. Only when car is cold and moving off, once driving Liao no issue.

 

Recently decided to go wokshop check it out, was told some seal inside not gd Liao, if want rectify expect to pay $2.5k for overhaul.

 

Car left 2 yrs, worth it?

 

 

Recently, I also get the slight jerk from 1st to 2nd gear. But its only when starting the car 1st thing in the morning or after work in evening.

 

In both instances, it only applies to the first time moving off in cp. After that smooth liao.

 

After that say if I go park somewhere for dinner for an hour. Then start the car again, I do not experience the slight jerk.

 

Pink tranny oil is now used at 24.4k. ( color is yellowish pink) Should I flush or just drain & refill ?

[Baal]

Me having same issue with my ride. Only when car is cold and moving off, once driving Liao no issue.

 

Recently decided to go wokshop check it out, was told some seal inside not gd Liao, if want rectify expect to pay $2.5k for overhaul.

 

Car left 2 yrs, worth it?

 

 

in my case, I was told with gentle footwork, should last another 20k,.....maybe a little more.

What I do now is I warm up a little more b4 moving off. Seems to help.

 

And, when 1st moving off, when it approaches 1.8-2k rpm where it usually shifts.......i try to anticipate & back off accl so that it shifts with no input. Seems to help.

 

Also earlier in the evening, i thought that since "cold" ATF is the prob, while warming up, i pull handbrake + apply footbreak, then place to "D", followed by light revving to 1.5k rpm, hold there for 2-3 secs & back off......repeat a couple of times ( in the self believe that it would "heat" up the ATF) before moving off. Also seems to help. The car was parked for 5 hours from 230pm to 730pm. I know it sounds like some "old wive tale" solution....

 

Back to your question. I would do a drain & refill & see if it improves (I did that). Mine had improvement though it didnt cure the jerk completely. Left 2 years, i think i will not overhaul. I was also quoted $2k & above. I will push my luck with drain & refill & apply gentle footwork. Try to refrain from crossing 3k rpm & no hard accl. Drive as though bought a new car & running in....

 

Oh, my ws said for better results (but no promise that will ensure it will last 2 full years) , drive another few K mileage & repeat the drain & refill again.....& then cross fingers.....

[Sigcomms]

I drove my car for 5 years before reaching 40k to change atf. About 2 year ago, when it changes from 3rd to 4th gear, it sometimes makes a abnormal sound as if the gear did not engaged properly. I ignored it and drove for another 2 years. After changing the atf, the sound disappeared or the AD is kind enough to rectify something but did not let me know.

 

Now i guess i have to replace the atf every 2 years before something serious happen to the gearbox.

[Astralee]

Hi, tks for the advice.

 

Actually my wkshop also offered to flush the ATF plus filter, but mentioned that no guarantee have any improvement. Hesitant as will cost abt $250. So still considering.

 

Now practice warming up at least 5min b4 moving off.

 

Jus found a trick that works for my ride, engage 'r' and move a bit backwards, then shift to 'd' seems to trick the GB into moving fwd smoothly. Hope will continue to work..

 

in my case, I was told with gentle footwork, should last another 20k,.....maybe a little more.

What I do now is I warm up a little more b4 moving off. Seems to help.

 

And, when 1st moving off, when it approaches 1.8-2k rpm where it usually shifts.......i try to anticipate & back off accl so that it shifts with no input. Seems to help.

 

Also earlier in the evening, i thought that since "cold" ATF is the prob, while warming up, i pull handbrake + apply footbreak, then place to "D", followed by light revving to 1.5k rpm, hold there for 2-3 secs & back off......repeat a couple of times ( in the self believe that it would "heat" up the ATF) before moving off. Also seems to help. The car was parked for 5 hours from 230pm to 730pm. I know it sounds like some "old wive tale" solution....

 

Back to your question. I would do a drain & refill & see if it improves (I did that). Mine had improvement though it didnt cure the jerk completely. Left 2 years, i think i will not overhaul. I was also quoted $2k & above. I will push my luck with drain & refill & apply gentle footwork. Try to refrain from crossing 3k rpm & no hard accl. Drive as though bought a new car & running in....

 

Oh, my ws said for better results (but no promise that will ensure it will last 2 full years) , drive another few K mileage & repeat the drain & refill again.....& then cross fingers.....

[Hamburger]

from my understanding, the seals have leaked which caused the lack of pressure to shift from 1st to 2nd.

 

i used amsoil atf and the problems was solved but lasted only 4 months. Maybe do another flush may help but i sold it before that.

 

yes......honda atf is lousy to say the least.

[Baal]

Hi, tks for the advice.

 

Actually my wkshop also offered to flush the ATF plus filter, but mentioned that no guarantee have any improvement. Hesitant as will cost abt $250. So still considering.

 

Now practice warming up at least 5min b4 moving off.

 

Jus found a trick that works for my ride, engage 'r' and move a bit backwards, then shift to 'd' seems to trick the GB into moving fwd smoothly. Hope will continue to work..

 

 

Yep, I used to warm up 3-5 mins b4 moving off. Later i just did it for a minute & moved off gently. Now I'm back to warming up 3-5 mins again....

 

Now that u mention, i also do the practice that is meant for checking ATF level while engine is running. Thats is moving slowing from P, R, N, D, 2, L, D, N, R, P. Then back to D before moving off. This is in the believe that it would help "spread" the ATF.

 

Talk about desperate measures.... Thanks for sharing I will try that our too.

 

$250 is flush, Drain should be 1/2 or less than that as only 50-60% would drain out.

[Matoonia]

 

Yep, I used to warm up 3-5 mins b4 moving off. Later i just did it for a minute & moved off gently. Now I'm back to warming up 3-5 mins again....

 

Now that u mention, i also do the practice that is meant for checking ATF level while engine is running. Thats is moving slowing from P, R, N, D, 2, L, D, N, R, P. Then back to D before moving off. This is in the believe that it would help "spread" the ATF.

 

Talk about desperate measures.... Thanks for sharing I will try that our too.

 

$250 is flush, Drain should be 1/2 or less than that as only 50-60% would drain out.

 

If your car still have 2 years, I think spend $250 to flush is well worth it. 2 years is a long time...

[Baal]

 

If your car still have 2 years, I think spend $250 to flush is well worth it. 2 years is a long time...

I intend to drain & refill again.

In part why I opt to drain/refill 2x rather than flush is coz my ws don't have the flushing machine....

 

[Baal]

from my understanding, the seals have leaked which caused the lack of pressure to shift from 1st to 2nd.

 

i used amsoil atf and the problems was solved but lasted only 4 months. Maybe do another flush may help but i sold it before that.

 

yes......honda atf is lousy to say the least.

As in ATF, CVTF or both?

 

Lousy as in? Eg, 20k must flush ATF already or ?

[Hamburger]

As in ATF, CVTF or both?

 

Lousy as in? Eg, 20k must flush ATF already or ?

 

me referring to ATF....

 

lousy as in compared to amsoil.

[Pisces69]

in my case, I was told with gentle footwork, should last another 20k,.....maybe a little more.

What I do now is I warm up a little more b4 moving off. Seems to help.

 

And, when 1st moving off, when it approaches 1.8-2k rpm where it usually shifts.......i try to anticipate & back off accl so that it shifts with no input. Seems to help.

 

Also earlier in the evening, i thought that since "cold" ATF is the prob, while warming up, i pull handbrake + apply footbreak, then place to "D", followed by light revving to 1.5k rpm, hold there for 2-3 secs & back off......repeat a couple of times ( in the self believe that it would "heat" up the ATF) before moving off. Also seems to help. The car was parked for 5 hours from 230pm to 730pm. I know it sounds like some "old wive tale" solution....

 

Back to your question. I would do a drain & refill & see if it improves (I did that). Mine had improvement though it didnt cure the jerk completely. Left 2 years, i think i will not overhaul. I was also quoted $2k & above. I will push my luck with drain & refill & apply gentle footwork. Try to refrain from crossing 3k rpm & no hard accl. Drive as though bought a new car & running in....

 

Oh, my ws said for better results (but no promise that will ensure it will last 2 full years) , drive another few K mileage & repeat the drain & refill again.....& then cross fingers.....

 

Last time my old COE Corona when abt 15 yrs old the autobox cannot engage reverse when cold n must wait abt 3-5 mins b4 it wil engage. Once engine/autobox warmed up it wil engage reverse immediately. Forward gears no problem at all.

 

Overhaul at KATC cost abt $2K. Then all was fine n use for abt 4 yrs till scrap.

 

On checking was told the solenoid switch/valve spoil. I drove like that for a few months b4 I sent for overhaul. Hahahaha.

[Pisces69]

in my case, I was told with gentle footwork, should last another 20k,.....maybe a little more.

What I do now is I warm up a little more b4 moving off. Seems to help.

 

And, when 1st moving off, when it approaches 1.8-2k rpm where it usually shifts.......i try to anticipate & back off accl so that it shifts with no input. Seems to help.

 

Also earlier in the evening, i thought that since "cold" ATF is the prob, while warming up, i pull handbrake + apply footbreak, then place to "D", followed by light revving to 1.5k rpm, hold there for 2-3 secs & back off......repeat a couple of times ( in the self believe that it would "heat" up the ATF) before moving off. Also seems to help. The car was parked for 5 hours from 230pm to 730pm. I know it sounds like some "old wive tale" solution....

 

Back to your question. I would do a drain & refill & see if it improves (I did that). Mine had improvement though it didnt cure the jerk completely. Left 2 years, i think i will not overhaul. I was also quoted $2k & above. I will push my luck with drain & refill & apply gentle footwork. Try to refrain from crossing 3k rpm & no hard accl. Drive as though bought a new car & running in....

 

Oh, my ws said for better results (but no promise that will ensure it will last 2 full years) , drive another few K mileage & repeat the drain & refill again.....& then cross fingers.....

 

 

Yours Hyundai so a bit hard to get a 2nd hand autobox from scrapyards. Maybe u can call all scrapyards n see if ty got any but b careful cos it might b a derfective autobox taken from a scrapped Hyundai.

 

If car was scrapped due to other reasons like bad accident then the autobox might still b in good condition.

 

Last time I found out too late my Corona can get a 2nd hand autobox for abt $300 only n the scrapyard can even install n guarantee it wil work for abt $100 more.

[Baal]

 

 

Yours Hyundai so a bit hard to get a 2nd hand autobox from scrapyards. Maybe u can call all scrapyards n see if ty got any but b careful cos it might b a derfective autobox taken from a scrapped Hyundai.

 

If car was scrapped due to other reasons like bad accident then the autobox might still b in good condition.

 

Last time I found out too late my Corona can get a 2nd hand autobox for abt $300 only n the scrapyard can even install n guarantee it wil work for abt $100 more.

Thanks for the tip.

[Astralee]

Report report. Did a ATF flush, and am glad to share that transmission has very much improved. now morning after start car for few minutes, 'D' can engage without slip and drive off smoothly. Praying hard it stays this way for as long as possible, while on my part I promise myself to stop flooring the accelerator n keep rpm below 3k. Fingers crossed.

 

 

in my case, I was told with gentle footwork, should last another 20k,.....maybe a little more.

What I do now is I warm up a little more b4 moving off. Seems to help.

 

And, when 1st moving off, when it approaches 1.8-2k rpm where it usually shifts.......i try to anticipate & back off accl so that it shifts with no input. Seems to help.

 

Also earlier in the evening, i thought that since "cold" ATF is the prob, while warming up, i pull handbrake + apply footbreak, then place to "D", followed by light revving to 1.5k rpm, hold there for 2-3 secs & back off......repeat a couple of times ( in the self believe that it would "heat" up the ATF) before moving off. Also seems to help. The car was parked for 5 hours from 230pm to 730pm. I know it sounds like some "old wive tale" solution....

 

Back to your question. I would do a drain & refill & see if it improves (I did that). Mine had improvement though it didnt cure the jerk completely. Left 2 years, i think i will not overhaul. I was also quoted $2k & above. I will push my luck with drain & refill & apply gentle footwork. Try to refrain from crossing 3k rpm & no hard accl. Drive as though bought a new car & running in....

 

Oh, my ws said for better results (but no promise that will ensure it will last 2 full years) , drive another few K mileage & repeat the drain & refill again.....& then cross fingers.....

[Baal]

Report report. Did a ATF flush, and am glad to share that transmission has very much improved. now morning after start car for few minutes, 'D' can engage without slip and drive off smoothly. Praying hard it stays this way for as long as possible, while on my part I promise myself to stop flooring the accelerator n keep rpm below 3k. Fingers crossed.

 

 

Glad to hear that

Yep, thats a good idea.

 

For the past few days at my end, after starting engine & allowing a few secs for the idling to stabilise at 1k rpm, I apply full lock on the hand brake and warm up the engine in D position for 2-3 mins (presumably for the ATF to warm up). Seems to help.

 

Almost sounds like heating up food in the microwave before eating lol...

[Baal]

 

...............

 

btw bro, do u have any insights on.....

 

assuming that a well maintained Hyundai 4AT should last 160k mileage from brand new, with no surprises, driving habits similar, how long would the same GB last after a rebuild?

 

Eg, rebuild GB at 160k, would it conservatively last another 100k? So total 260k? (This means a rebuild would give a user life extension of about another 2/3 worth?) TIA.

[Matoonia]

 

btw bro, do u have any insights on.....

 

assuming that a well maintained Hyundai 4AT should last 160k mileage from brand new, with no surprises, driving habits similar, how long would the same GB last after a rebuild?

 

Eg, rebuild GB at 160k, would it conservatively last another 100k? So total 260k? (This means a rebuild would give a user life extension of about another 2/3 worth?) TIA.

 

Not sure about this, but when i overhaul my GB at KATC at around 120k km, because of no choice, I think I'll be happy if I can get another 100k km out of this. I think for Hyundai quite safe to get 100k after rebuild.