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Simple home DIY repairs


Lala81
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3 minutes ago, Lala81 said:

Yeah. I got the ga chang. Just need to start using it. 

Meanwhile today after work, I also found out why my service yard floor keep getting wet. It's due to a partially choked drain that only overflows when my washing machine discharges water into it. Ordered a drain auger online. Hopefully that will solve the problem. 

 

 

I have auger but I find it difficult to use, now I use pressure washer. 😁

You can also use those drain chemical, it's essentially hydrochloric acid.

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2 hours ago, Kb27 said:

I'm going to run electrical conduits on concrete walls soon. The pros use hammer and concrete nails. For me,  I make a mess. Either I hit the plastic with the hammer, broke them off or the nails go flying to unknown location. I tried double-sided tape, but they don't stay on for long.

End up I have to drill into the wall and insert screws. 😫

I used concrete nails hammered them right in the middle of the trunking (I think the boxy ones are called trunking, conduit is the round pipe type) recently.

Hard to do alone - got to hold the trunking and the nail with one hand and hammer with the other while on a ladder! 

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1 hour ago, Lala81 said:

Yeah. I got the ga chang. Just need to start using it. 

Meanwhile today after work, I also found out why my service yard floor keep getting wet. It's due to a partially choked drain that only overflows when my washing machine discharges water into it. Ordered a drain auger online. Hopefully that will solve the problem. 

 

 

Hopefully it is not some lousy contractor flushing excess cement down the sewerage! 

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1 hour ago, Volvobrick said:

I used concrete nails hammered them right in the middle of the trunking (I think the boxy ones are called trunking, conduit is the round pipe type) recently.

Hard to do alone - got to hold the trunking and the nail with one hand and hammer with the other while on a ladder! 

Thanks, it's trunking. I gave up on the nails. One hole and one screw thru the trunking on the wall is much easier to manage. Doesn't save much on material, but the time save is a lot for me...and frustration.

Edited by Kb27
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16 minutes ago, Kb27 said:

Thanks, it's trunking. I gave up on the nails. One hole and one screw thru the trunking on the wall is much easier to manage. Doesn't save much on material, but the time save is a lot for me...and frustration.

The trick is hammer in the nails into the trunking while it is on the floor....Then can just hold the trunking and the nails would all be sticking upright!

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I inherited this table from the previous owner. 
https://www.ikea.com/sg/en/p/thyge-desk-white-silver-colour-s19245192/

At first thought it was a foldable table that is spoilt. cos it tends to fold up on one side when u press down. Some plastic "rivets" type of thing fell down from it during the renovation and usage. And then the whole table top fell off.

This video at 4mins onwards show how the table top is attached. It's held by 6 flimsy plastic expandable fasteners into the particle board table top. Basically the particle board around the fastener has cracked open so the whole thing fell off.

 

 

 

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A pin hole leak on my copper pipe. This was quite sudden. Wife heard water sounds in the toilet. Lucky we caught it early enough else the whole false ceiling would have been water logged had it happen during the night. 
managed to seal it temporary via a rubber strip and a G clamp. Will have to call a plumber to replace the section of pipe. Sigh old copper pipe woes. 
 

9E866D7B-CEC4-4303-BB31-7C89F403D484.jpeg

Edited by Mkl22
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On 11/17/2021 at 9:37 PM, Kb27 said:

I'm going to run electrical conduits on concrete walls soon. The pros use hammer and concrete nails. For me,  I make a mess. Either I hit the plastic with the hammer, broke them off or the nails go flying to unknown location. I tried double-sided tape, but they don't stay on for long.

End up I have to drill into the wall and insert screws. 😫

same. aim a bit off and you break the plastic conduit. then have to redo. 😭

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On 11/17/2021 at 11:46 PM, Volvobrick said:

Hopefully it is not some lousy contractor flushing excess cement down the sewerage! 

ya man. if the gully hole is clear one should be able to pour a 12-15L bucket of water continuously. this is one test that i use. 

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41 minutes ago, Mkl22 said:

A pin hole leak on my copper pipe. This was quite sudden. Wife heard water sounds in the toilet. Lucky we caught it early enough else the whole false ceiling would have been water logged had it happen during the night. 
managed to seal it temporary via a rubber strip and a G clamp. Will have to call a plumber to replace the section of pipe. Sigh old copper pipe woes. 
 

9E866D7B-CEC4-4303-BB31-7C89F403D484.jpeg

Wow very creative temporary fix! 

Noted down! 

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Done. Decided to use stainless steel even though it’s a short section. The old leak was on a tee off spur which is no longer used. So instead of the quick and easy way of cutting off the leak area and cap off. Told plumber to just get rid of the tee and use a straight pipe. 

7BBEA8B5-8547-4ADB-A858-365712590C9E.jpeg

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59 minutes ago, Mkl22 said:

Done. Decided to use stainless steel even though it’s a short section. The old leak was on a tee off spur which is no longer used. So instead of the quick and easy way of cutting off the leak area and cap off. Told plumber to just get rid of the tee and use a straight pipe. 

7BBEA8B5-8547-4ADB-A858-365712590C9E.jpeg

You shouldn't use dissimilar materials for pipping:

https://www.nuflowmidwest.com/will-using-dissimilar-plumbing-pipe-metals-accelerate-pipe-corrosion/

Other than corrosion, it will leak easily due to different material hardness. 

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58 minutes ago, Mkl22 said:

Done. Decided to use stainless steel even though it’s a short section. The old leak was on a tee off spur which is no longer used. So instead of the quick and easy way of cutting off the leak area and cap off. Told plumber to just get rid of the tee and use a straight pipe. 

7BBEA8B5-8547-4ADB-A858-365712590C9E.jpeg

My 2-cent. Actually copper better for using such fitting. If want to use stainless steel, then should use the latest fittings . 

 

fitting.jpg

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9 minutes ago, mersaylee said:

Curious...Is it a non hdb? Photo shot from bottom up to ceiling? 

Likely private. anything above false ceiling is bare. When i tear down my kitchen and toilet for my resale EC, the tiles literally stop at the false ceiling/cabinet. 

 

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2 hours ago, Mkl22 said:

A pin hole leak on my copper pipe. This was quite sudden. Wife heard water sounds in the toilet. Lucky we caught it early enough else the whole false ceiling would have been water logged had it happen during the night. 
managed to seal it temporary via a rubber strip and a G clamp. Will have to call a plumber to replace the section of pipe. Sigh old copper pipe woes. 
 

9E866D7B-CEC4-4303-BB31-7C89F403D484.jpeg

You can standby some silicone self-fusing tape for emergency repair.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Treme-Tape-TPE-X36ZLB-Silicone-Triangular/dp/B00HWROLIG/

 

Next step is to learn and do some plumbing work.[laugh]

Most residential piping is 1/2" copper pipe. It's easy to work with. Just need some tools, pipe cutter, deburring tool, plumber's wrench.

1 foot of copper pipe is about $2. I buy from Aik Cheong, cut to 8 feet each, can stuff inside a car and carry home. Use compression fittings (no need teflon tape), you can install straight or 90 deg run with elbows. And fit some taps, shut-off ball valves where it's convenient. There now you're a mini plumber. [laugh]

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