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IMO, it may not be a good idea to de-badge the car.. after all you won't want it to be mistaken for a PI car or a PH?

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Supersonic

IMO, it may not be a good idea to de-badge the car.. after all you won't want it to be mistaken for a PI car or a PH?

 

 

I dun get this de-badge thingy. Think ppl realli so free (...or care) to jio juz because got turbo badge meh? 

 

Even those LCR Attrage try to rub-off the LCR word on the number plate casing oso i dun get. U mean if dun hv the LCR word, the Attrage suddenly look more classy izit?....LOL

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IMO, it may not be a good idea to de-badge the car.. after all you won't want it to be mistaken for a PI car or a PH?

Someone will go the way and stick a "S" behind the "Turbo"!

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Turbocharged

Looking at most forums, there is BlackNano, CeramicPro and MonsterShine

Pricing wise are they all around $500?

 

The cheaper ones are around $500, some of the upper tier are $1,000+, Sierra Glow Blue Flame takes the cake at $1,500+.

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I dun get this de-badge thingy. Think ppl realli so free (...or care) to jio juz because got turbo badge meh? 

 

Even those LCR Attrage try to rub-off the LCR word on the number plate casing oso i dun get. U mean if dun hv the LCR word, the Attrage suddenly look more classy izit?....LOL

 

The only kind of car I might consider a de-badge might be a M3/M5 or a VR6 from VW, so it looks ordinary, then when I step on the gas, it goes like the wind..

I don't really want to let the world know I have a fast car. I let the car do the talking when it moves..

On the other hand, this LCR thing is just odd...

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Supersonic

Actually all you need is pay $20K to C&C, they will take your car in and honour the warranty as it is from factory - there is a sign at the counter of their Pandan service centre stating this.

 

I was actually considering GLC from PI last year as the waitlist at C&C was 9 months but my boss decide that she wanted the NX because the price was cheaper.

You do need a lot of crap to break to spend that 20k. Every part can be repaired except the ecu and tcu. Mercedes parts are very easily to order and get.

The only kind of car I might consider a de-badge might be a M3/M5 or a VR6 from VW, so it looks ordinary, then when I step on the gas, it goes like the wind..

I don't really want to let the world know I have a fast car. I let the car do the talking when it moves..

On the other hand, this LCR thing is just odd...

There is only one car I know that does the reverse and "down badge". A real ISF badged as a IS250. Every other will "up badge" fake m5 m3, C63 aplenty.
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(edited)

Actually those whom bought with PI shall need to be prepared to pay more after warranty expires or lower resale value.

 

I actually wanted to buy from PI and even wrote to BM last year to ask if they can service it. BM asked to have the log card for internal approval before they will take in. That's why I hesitated to go for it.

I am actually very comfortable buying Toyota from PI, I had two generations of RAV4 from PI before BM brought RAV4 in, never had any issues. Toyota is rock solid, you have to be really suai to get a lemon. There used to be this car service shop called Autoplus which did a phenomenal job of maintaining those two cars and cheap as hell. Too bad the shop is no more in business. Edited by AFWE69
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The cheaper ones are around $500, some of the upper tier are $1,000+, Sierra Glow Blue Flame takes the cake at $1,500+.

What differentiate between them beside the price?

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I am actually very comfortable buying Toyota from PI, I had two generations of RAV4 from PI before BM brought RAV4 in, never had any issues. Toyota is rock solid, you have to be really suai to get a lemon. There used to be this car service shop called Autoplus which did a phenomenal job of maintaining those two cars and cheap as hell. Too bad the shop is no more in business.

 

can share your toyota workshop?  I probably won't go back BM for servicing after 1st year.

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Turbocharged
(edited)

What differentiate between them beside the price?

 

Probably their specific coating formulation is different, and different workshops may have different standard of work, or some may not do interior work as part of the price. 

 

Some also apply differently. For example Sierra Glow has a very dramatic application method, they use a silicon gas flame (hence the name Blue Flame), while most others merely wipe a liquid onto the car. Some also just wipe the coating on and done, others will have your car sit under a UV light to cure.

 

Some brands also have various tiers, usually they market the more expensive ones as more durable and longer lasting.

Edited by 7hm
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Actual OMV Registration for July Batch

 

Premium: $33,300

Luxury: $35,700

Pardon my ignorance, so Scrap value = 50% of $35.7k right? I.e. $18k

 

I was told RX200t Turbo exec scrap is $33k

Assuming Lexus give $30k discount...at $215k - $15k (extra scrap value) = $200k technically RX is $40k more expensive than Harrier Lux.

 

Some bros who can the $40k extra might wanna consider RX.

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(edited)

Pardon my ignorance, so Scrap value = 50% of $35.7k right? I.e. $18k

 

I was told RX200t Turbo exec scrap is $33k

Assuming Lexus give $30k discount...at $215k - $15k (extra scrap value) = $200k technically RX is $40k more expensive than Harrier Lux.

 

Some bros who can the $40k extra might wanna consider RX.

Scrap = 50% of ARF

ARF = 1st $20K OMV, next $30K OMV x 1.4 and anything beyond $50K OMV x 1.8

 

Based on $35.7K OMV, the ARF = $20K + ($15.7K x 1.4) = $42K (Scrap - $21K)

Edited by Dna_engine
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Probably the reason why it is not longer in business..... :D

 

I am actually very comfortable buying Toyota from PI, I had two generations of RAV4 from PI before BM brought RAV4 in, never had any issues. Toyota is rock solid, you have to be really suai to get a lemon. There used to be this car service shop called Autoplus which did a phenomenal job of maintaining those two cars and cheap as hell. Too bad the shop is no more in business.

 

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Hypersonic

Probably the reason why it is not longer in business..... :D

Ya lor, no wonder not in business anymore.
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Scrap = 50% of ARF

ARF = 1st $20K OMV, next $30K OMV x 1.4 and anything beyond $50K OMV x 1.8

 

Based on $35.7K OMV, the ARF = $20K + ($15.7K x 1.4) = $42K (Scrap - $21K)

Bro

If you have a car with OMV 26.6k, CEVS of 5k, how much is the nett scrap value?

Is it 26.6-5k = 21.6

So 20+ (1.6*1.4)= 20+2.24 then divided by 2?

I.e. 224000/2 = $11200

Thanks

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Supersonic

Bro

If you have a car with OMV 26.6k, CEVS of 5k, how much is the nett scrap value?

Is it 26.6-5k = 21.6

So 20+ (1.6*1.4)= 20+2.24 then divided by 2?

I.e. 224000/2 = $11200

Thanks

You calculate ARF first. 20 + 6.6x1.4 then minus the 5k and then 50% of that.
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