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Hi, Which is the best place to do?..so far narrow down to Chuan HiFi and Piang Liang (PL) after some searching. PL would be more ex though... Anyone any suggestions? I'm trying to look for a place whom they would be familiar with AVEO...as our rides are still relatively new in market..not many audio shops have experience the "removal process"..I do want to be guinea pig I got my woofer, amp, speakers from my previous ride, juz need to find a reliable place to install and tune if can. Thanks in advance!

Hi guys, I just got a new ride and I opted not to have the audio system, I plan to have the Pioneer

Hi guys, I had just upgraded my sound system in my aveo (all 2nd hand)...and its damn solid...if you guys interested, i know a guy who sells both brand new or 2nd car audio systems... email me at [email protected] for his contacts.....

anyone know of any head unit that plays mp3 directly from sd/mmc card like the blaupunkt dab 52??? any good lobang to recommend?

hi there, will be getting my FL N16 next week. Heard that the stock Clarion HU and stock speakers in N16 is of VERY POOR QUALITY. Is it true??? if above is true, any advise to change the setup to a slight above entry level setup. Would like to know if is it neccessary to change the speakers or HU 1st. might get a 4ch amp if necessary. and i dun intend to add a sub yet. pls give e recommendations to the brand,model,price and place of purchase/setup. thanks in advance to any help/advise.

i need to do a simple transfer of HU and speakers between 2 cars, any recommendation of a place in jurong area? many thanx

Hi bro! Anyone got experience with Lightning Audio's stuff? Today went down to an audio shop and they recommended me components from this company. Quite expensive! Don't know worth it or not. They even "downplayed" my currnet blaupunkt setup saying Lightning Audio's stuff is a lot better. Anyone can help me on this?

Going to fix up my hu today.working close to town one... so where got audio shops that fix HU near town? thanks

Hi, new here... Advice needed from the regulars here, Anyone knows where to get cheap gauges in sg? Audio too? Whereabout to make my own sticker design in sg? Thanks guys and gals!

Asking all Optra bros who has the standard Blaupunkt cassette HU: Does it have L/R audio outs for connection to external power amplifier? (To Mod: I know this is an ICE question, but it is specific to Optra model, so I post here instead)

Hello fellow members, Where is the best place to get JL audio subwoofers. (cheapest price) I am looking to get a single 12W7 for my car. Thanks!

AC-2100 is a device for playing your favorite MP3 format music through FM audio channel in your car. Just adjust your car radio into proper FM channel which should be the same as AC-2100 frequency and put music transmission wire into earphone jack of portable music device and enjoy the MP3 music from the car audio system! Features [*]Wirelessly transmitting voice and music signal to the FM stereo system. [*]Compatible with any audio device that has a standard 3.5mm headphone plug. [*]Power button for avoiding unnecessary power consumption, and the power LED indicator for power status. [*]3 bands (88.3, 88.7,88.9MHz) selection for better audio quality. [*]Using car DC power (12V). Battery is not required. [*]Additional USB +5V power source for device charging such as PDAs and mobile phones. [*]Easy installation and simple use. [*]Flexible adjustment joint for using in cars. [*]Fuse function for safety use. [*]Suitable length of audio filament. Bro/Sis, any comments on this gadget to play iPod in cars (w/o aux in)?? If NG, any other products to recommend If good, where to get in S'pore Cheers

Hi guys Posting this for a friend. Hi-Fi enthusiast do listen up 8) My friend's company Audio Trio PTE LTD is bringing in Odyssey Audio products from USA. This brand is well known in US for their value-for-money but high quality amplifiers and pre-amps. Their amps and preamps are designed in Germany and built in US. Odyssey Audio amplifiers are well known to be able to drive difficult loads (think Martin Logans). They are an excellent choice for people who are making the transition into the Hi-End Hi-Fi market. You can check out the website at www.odysseyaudiosg.com The showroom is located at the NTUC Income Beach Junction (opp shaw towers). You can check out the webby for more details. 8)

Keep seeing this brand and others like Autobahn being advertised in HotStuff...seems more like budget brands... Any one who has used these brands and would like to comment on how good they are for setting up a budget sound system? I'm not into SPL or sound quality that sort of thing...just like to have some bass that's all. Cheers

http://caraudioclub.net/photo.html

Hi, anyone know shop selling 2nd hand audio including installation with reasonable price?

Any bros can recommend Front `Can make it speakers' for my car audio without an amp? I'm currently using a pioneer DEH 1550, 50w x 4. Any recommendations? Would like to spend anything less than $200. Thanks in advance

Date : 21-23 Nov 03 Venue: A'Farmosa Resort Time : 9am-3am Entrance is free. Anybody going? http://www.icarworld.com/v2/

Does anyone know where to get good-priced 2nd hand car audio? Thanks.

Hi All, I am interested in changing my stock audio setup. My stock setup includes 2 tweeters, 2 front spkers (?"), 2 rear speakers (4"). Saw that the rear speakers are from "Boss Audio". HU is Blaupunkt Dakota CD31 and a 5 Disc In-dash changer. Any advice of what to change? I am interested to change to DAB52. (want to use the MP3 function) Was advice to add an amp and a woofer/bass tube, change the front spkrs. Rear spkrs because of the limited space, only can use 4"...so no point to change - this is what I was told. True?? I need some help and recommendation on the brand of amp, woofer and speakers. Thanks. I saw the Velocity woofer unit...looks not bad.

A bit cheong hei, but rather informative. Electrical This section describes various problems and concepts which are closely related to electronics. 2.1 My speakers make this high-pitched whine which matches the engine's RPMs. What is it, and how can I get rid of it? [iDB] The answer to this section was generously provided by David Navone of Autosound 2000. The material in these instructions was adapted from the Autosound 2000 Troubleshooting Flow Chart by Ian Bjorhovde with the permission of Autosound 2000. For more information about Autosound 2000, See section 7 Literature. This is a set of instructions to debug a stereo installation if there is any noise present after it is completed. Follow each step carefully! If you have more than one amplifier, repeat level one for each amp to be sure that none of them are responsible for the noise. 2.1.1 Level 1: Check out the Amplifier(s) After you have determined that there is noise in the system, determine if the amplifier is causing the noise. To do this, mute the signal at the inputs to the amp by using shorting plugs. If there is no noise, then the amp is fine, and you can proceed to level 2. However, if there is noise, then use a test speaker at the amp's output. If this stops the noise, then the problem is originating in the speaker wiring, or the passive crossovers. Check to make sure that none of these are shorting with the body of the car, and start again at level 1. If noise is still present when using the test speaker, then there may be a problem with the power supply on the amp. Try connecting an isolated power supply - if this does not get rid of the noise, then there is something seriously wrong with the amp, and it should be replaced. If the noise goes away, then there may be a problem with power supply filtering or isolation. This can be fixed by changing the amp's ground point or b adding external supply filtering. 2.1.2 Level 2: Reduce the System The amps have been determined to be noise free. If you have any processors between the head unit and the amps, disconnect them and connect the head unit directly to the amp. If this gets rid of the noise, then one (or more) of the processors must be at fault, so proceed to level 5. Otherwise, try running the signal cables over a number of different routes. If you are able to find one that does not produce any noise, permanently route the cables in the same manner, and proceed to level 5. If not, then you must isolate the head unit from the car's chassis (except for its ground!) -- don't forget to disconnect the antenna, since it is also grounded to the car. If isolating the head unit does not solve the problem, the move the grounding point of the head unit. Hopefully the noise will be gone, and you can install the head unit with a quiet ground and proceed to level 5, otherwise go on to level 3. 2.1.3 Level 3: Move the Head Unit The amplifiers are fine, but moving both the ground for the head unit and the signal cables does not solve the noise problem. Take the unit completely out of the dash, and put it on either the seat or carpet, and run new signal cables to the input of the amp. If this solves the problem, re-install the head unit, one step at a time and skip to level 5. But if the noise persists, then move the head unit as close to the amp as possible and use the shortest possible signal cables. This will verify that the original signal cables are not causing the problem -- assuming the noise is gone, reinstall the head unit one step at a time and go to level 5. Otherwise, there may be a problem with the power filtering for the head unit. As with the amps, power the head unit with an isolated power supply (again making sure that the head unit isn't touching the car's chassis at all). If the noise goes away, you can add power supply filtering or an isolated power supply; go to level 2. But if the isolated power supply does not solve the problem, then you can either replace the head unit and go to level 2, or check the car's electrical system in level 4. 2.1.4 Level 4: Testing the Car There does not seem to be a problem with either the head unit or the amplifier, and the car's charging system is suspect. To see if this is the case, we can use a system in a car that is already known to be "quiet." Bring both cars together as if you were going to jump one, and use jumper cables to connect the two batteries. Start the engine of the car with the noise problem, and listen to the "quiet" car's system. If the noise does not go away, there is a SERIOUS problem with your car's electrical system (possibly a bad alternator). Have a qualified mechanic check the charging system out. If there is no noise in the "quiet" car, then the "noisy" car's charging system is definitely quiet, so continue with level 5. 2.1.5 Level 5: Adding Signal Processors We have proven that the amplifiers are good, the head unit is good, and the car's electrical system is good. Now we need to reconnect each signal processor. Repeat this level for each signal processor used in your system; if you have added all of your signal processors, and there is no longer any noise, CONGRATULATIONS! You've removed the noise from your system! Connect the signal processor. If there isn't any noise, then go on to the next signal processor. Otherwise, try re-routing the signal cables. If this cures the problem, the route them permanently over the quiet path, and install the next processor. If not, then isolate the processor from the car's chassis except for a single grounding point. If this works, then permanently isolate the processor, and move on to the next processor. If isolation does not help, then advance to level 6. 2.1.6 Level 6: Processor Isolation Tests Now, noise enters the system when one particular processor is installed, but regrounding it does not help. Move the processor very close to the amp, and check for noise again. If there isn't any, then re-install the processor, carefully routing the cables to ensure no noise, and continue at level 5 with the next processor. Otherwise, use an isolated power supply to power the processor, making sure that no part of the processor is touching the car's chassis. If this solves the problem, the consider permanently installing an isolated power supply or possibly a 1:1 transformer, and go to level 5 with the next processor. Otherwise, separate the processor and isolated power supply from the car by many feet and re- test. If there is still noise, then there is a serious problem with the processor's design. Get a different processor, and continue at level 5 with it. If separating the power supply and processor from the car does solve the noise problem, then either the processor is damaged, or your tests were inaccurate. Repeat level 5. 2.2 My system "pops" when I turn it off. What is happening and how can I get rid of it? [JD] This kind of problem is often caused by transients in the signal processor as it powers down finding their way into the signal path, which the amplifier then transmits to the speakers. Usually this can be solved by adding a little turn-off delay to the processor. This allows the processor to stay powered on for a short time after the amplifiers have powered down, thus preventing the pop. Many components sold today (such as crossovers, equalizers, etc) have delays built-in. Read your manual to see if it is possible to set this delay on your piece of equipment or be sure to look for this feature during your next car audio purchase. If your processor does not have this feature, you can build your own delay circuit with a diode and a capacitor. Add a 1N4004 diode in series with the processor's turn-on lead, striped side towards the EQ. Then add a capacitor in parallel, the (+) side of the cap connects to the striped (processor) side of the diode, the (-) side of the cap goes to ground (not the radio or EQ chassis - connect to the car chassis). Experimenting with the cap value will give you the right amount of delay before the EQ shuts off. You don't want it too long, just long enough to make sure the amp is off before the EQ powers down. 220 - 1000 uF is about right, and make sure the cap is a polarized electrolytic, 16V or higher. Also keep in mind that the diode will introduce a 0.7V drop on the remote wire, which can cause the processor to power down before the rest of the system. 2.3 What is the best power wire to use? [JSC] There is much debate over the benefit of certain wiring schemes (oxygen-free, multistranded, braided, twisted, air core, you name it). However, most people do agree that the most important factor in selecting power wire is to use the proper size. Wire is generally rated in size by American Wire Gauge, abbreviated AWG, or commonly just gauge. To determine the correct wire size for your application, you should first determine the maximum current flow through the cable (looking at the amplifier's fuse is a relatively simple and conservative way to do this). Then determine the length of the cable that your will use, and consult the following chart, taken from the IASCA handbook See section 6.1 What is IASCA, and how do I get involved? [JSC, HK, IDB], Length of run (in feet) Current 0-4 4-7 7-10 10-13 13-16 16-19 19-22 22-28 0-20A 14 12 12 10 10 8 8 8 20-35A 12 10 8 8 6 6 6 4 35-50A 10 8 8 6 6 4 4 4 50-65A 8 8 6 4 4 4 4 2 65-85A 6 6 4 4 2 2 2 0 85-105A 6 6 4 2 2 2 2 0 105-125A 4 4 4 2 2 0 0 0 125-150A 2 2 2 2 0 0 0 00 If aluminum wire is used instead of copper wire, the next larger size (smaller number) should be used. You should also consider the installation demands: will you need to run the wire around corners or through doors or into the engine compartment? These sorts of problems in the car audio application require some special care in cable selection. You will want to have cable that is flexible; it should have thick insulation as well, and not melt at low temperatures. You don't want to install wire that is rigid and prone to cracks and cuts, or else the results could literally be explosive. 2.4 What is the best speaker wire to use? [JSC, JW] Again, there is much debate over the benefit of the various schemes that are being used by different manufacturers. In general, however, you will probably want to upgrade your speaker wire from the factory ~20 gauge to something bigger when you upgrade your amplifiers and speakers. In most cases, 16 or 18 gauge should be sufficient, with the possible exception of high-power subwoofers. According to an example by Jerry Williamson, using 18 gauge instead of 12 gauge would only result in a power loss of 0.1dB, which is essentially undetectable by humans. Thus, other factors play more important roles in the selection of speaker wire. One issue is that different wires will have different line capacitances, which could cause the wire to act as a low pass filter. Generally, however, the capacitances involved are so small that this is not a significant problem. Be sure to heed the warnings above regarding cable flexibility and insulation, especially when running wire into doors and other areas with an abundance of sharp metal. 2.5 I heard that I should run my power wire directly to my car's battery. Why should I bother, and how do I do it? [JSC] For some components, like head units and equalizers, it's acceptable to use the stock wiring for power. However, amplifiers generally require large amounts of power, and accordingly will draw large amounts of current. The factory wiring in most cars is not designed to handle large amounts of current, and most wires have 10-20A fuses on them. Thus, you will almost always want to run the power line for your amplifier directly to the positive terminal of the battery. This could require drilling a hole through the car's firewall, or at least spending time hunting for an existing hole (the steering column is a good place to start looking). Always remember to place a fuse on your wire as near to the battery as possible! For various reasons, such as an accident or simple wear and tear, your wire's insulation may eventually crack, which could allow the conducting wire to make contact with the chassis of the car and short the battery through this wire, which could lead to a serious fire. The closer you place a fuse to the battery, the more protected you are. Also, when running wire through areas with sharp metal corners, it is a good idea to use rubber grommets to provide extra protection against tearing through your wire's insulation. 2.6 Should I do the same thing with my ground wire, then? [JSC, IDB] No. In almost every case, the best thing to do is to ground your amplifier to a point that is attached to the chassis of the car and is as close to the amplifier as possible. The ground wire should not need to be more than about eighteen inches long, and should be at least as large as the power wire. The point to which you make your ground connection should be an unpainted piece of bare metal. Some cars (Audi, Porsche) have galvanized bodies, and in these cars, you must find one of the manufacturers' grounding points or else some noise can result. 2.7 Sometimes when I step out of my car, I get a really bad shock. What is wrong with my system? [iDB] Nothing. This is caused by static buildup by rubbing against the seats, floor mats, etc., just like walking across a carpet in a home. You can avoid this shock by touching something metal on your car before you put your foot on the ground. 2.8 When my car is running and I have the music turned up loud, my headlights dim with the music. Do I need a new battery or a new alternator? [CD, MO] The headlights will dim because of a momentary drop in the voltage level that is available to power the vehicle's accessories, including the headlights, amplifiers, the engine, etc. This voltage drop can be caused by a very large current demand by an accessory, such as an amplifier trying to reproduce a loud bass note. The first thing to do is to get your battery and alternator checked for proper functioning. A failing battery can place undesirable loads on the alternator, leaving less power for your system. If the power system appears to be working correctly, an improved alternator may be required for the large current demands of the audio system. When upgrading an alternator, be careful in your purchase, for there are some potential problems. An alternator which advertises a certain output level may only achieve that output at very high engine RPM ranges, for instance. Also, the new alternator must be adjusted to provide an output voltage within a reasonable range in terms of the voltage regulator. If you find your car will not start after playing the stereo for long periods of time with the engine off, and the present battery is in good working order, then another, paralleled battery could prevent this embarrassing problem. 2.9 What is a "stiffening capacitor", and how does it work? [JSC] Stiffening Capacitor (note capitals) is a trademark of Autosound 2000. However, "stiffening capacitor" (note lowercase), as a generic term, refers to a large capacitor (several thousand microfarads or greater) placed in parallel with an amplifier. The purpose of doing so is to provide a sort of reserve power source from which the amplifier can rapidly draw power when it needs it (such as during a deep bass note). The electrical theory is that when the amplifier attempts to draw a large amount of current, not only will the battery be relatively slow to respond, but the voltage at the amplifier will be a little lower than the voltage at the battery itself (this is called line drop). A capacitor at the amplifier which is charged to the battery voltage will try to stabilize the voltage level at the amplifier, dumping current into the amplifier. Another way to think about it is that a capacitor in parallel with a load acts as a low pass filter See section 3.10 What is a crossover? Why would I need one? [JSC], and the voltage level dropping at the amplifier will appear as an AC waveform superimposed upon a DC "wave". The capacitor, then, will try to filter out this AC wave, leaving the pure DC which the amplifier requires. 2.10 Should I install one in my car? If so, how big should it be, and where do I get one? [JSC] If you have a problem with dimming headlights when you have your music turned up and the bass starts to hit and the engine is running and you don't want to upgrade your alternator, or if the transient response of your amplifier is unacceptable to you, a stiffening capacitor could help you out. The commonly accepted "formula" for determining the proper size capacitor to use is 1F/kW (one farad per kilowatt). For example, a system running at 300W would need a 0.3F (or 300,000uF) capacitor. To install the capacitor, you should not simply attach it to your power and ground wires near your amplifier, as it will draw very large amounts of current from your battery and could blow fuses (or over charge). Instead, you should insert a small-value power resistor (25 ohm, 1/2 watt) or a 12VDC test lamp in between the power lead and the capacitor, and then charge it. If you use a lamp in series with the cap, when the lamp goes out, the capacitor is done charging. When it is done charging, carefully remove the capacitor's leads from the charging circuit, being certain not to touch the two leads together. You may then permanently install the capacitor by wiring it in parallel with your amplifier (be careful not to short the leads!). Large caps are currently available from some audio dealers, such as Phoenix Gold. You could also try electronics shops or mail-order houses. 2.11 What about adding a new battery? Or upgrading the amplifier? [iDB] Generally, adding a second battery is great if you want to listen to your stereo with the car turned off (and be able to start it again later!). As far as simply upgrading your current battery to a larger model, you may find that this will help solve the problem because batteries like the Optima 800 offer a larger number of cold cranking amps. However, the "response time" between when a battery kicks in a large amount of extra current and how long it takes a capacitor is vastly different. Although a battery may be able to respond in tenths of a second, bass notes are often much shorter and need current immediately -- which capacitors can supply. The difference between the two is that while the capacitor can supply a large amount of current immediately, their voltage quickly drops making them ineffective -- but by this time, usually the bass note has passed, and the capacitor has done its job of "stiffening" the supply voltage. Upgrading your alternator becomes a concern when you need a large amount of current from it frequently. If you are always listening to your stereo at a fairly high volume (assume your amp is drawing 20A), and then you use the A/C and a few other misc. accessories in your car, you can get to the point when the alternator can no longer provide enough current to effectively supply the car and charge the main battery. So, the main battery is always supplementing the alternator's current supply, and slowly (but surely) dies a relatively quick death.

thinking of getting some speakers tomorrow, don't know if any is open ??

Selling this amp coz upgraded to a better amp. Only use 4mths +1 mth unused. Very good condition and still under warranty. Offer me a price bought at $395. Keen please call 98443443 A410X Bridgeable 4 Channel Amplifier - 52 W RMS x 4 (4 ohm) - 70 W RMS x 4 (2 ohm) - 150 W RMS x 2 (4ohms) Bridged - 100 W x 4 MAX - Variable Crossover (50-250Hz) Selectable High or Low Pass - MOSFET Power Supply - THD 0.04% - 4 RCA Inputs - 4 High Level Inputs - 2 ohms Stable - S/N 90dB - 11" L x 2.2" H x 10" W - Freq Response 10-35,000 Hz

Hi guys, I just bought an MP3 Player (iPOD for Windows), hoping that I could connect it to my car's HU. I have seen the back of the HU before, and didn't realise the RCA connectors were a "bus audio-in", which meant that it also required a bus control cable to work. It's not an "Aux-in". It was supposed to be linked to a Sony CD/MD changer. So... I was hoping some of you could shed some light on the following choices... Option A: Find a good ICE guy who could hot-wire my Sony HU so that the bus audio can be used for "line-in" Anyone knows of a good ICE guy... Option B: Get an FM transmitter, hopefully with 12V adapter. Anyone knows where to get such a device. I've read seeral different accounts of such mods on overseas websites, and the 1st option is preferred as the sound quality would be much better. But the 2nd option would be simpler to do.... Does anyone know of another method (other than getting a new HU)? Thanks

anyone got any comments on the above compo speaker, with tweeters?